BuyingTime Daily - December 12, 2025
A heist, a Paul Newman gold rush, Vacheron’s stellar year, microbrand momentum, and solar tech rising—today’s watch universe is buzzing on every front.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe – December 12, 2025
The watch world woke up buzzing after Australian police wrapped up one of the wildest luxury-watch heists in recent memory—a Canberra mansion hit that netted thieves roughly $10 million in goods, including a Patek Philippe 5711 “Tiffany” and a Richard Mille RM88 “Smiley.” The four French nationals behind the caper were undone not by Interpol-level theatrics but by a visit to a fast-food joint, where they were promptly arrested. Some watches have been recovered from a Sydney rental, but several headliners remain missing, so keep an eye out at your local pawnshop just in case a certain turquoise-dialed celebrity strolls in.
Meanwhile, Rolex continues tightening the bolts on its Certified Pre-Owned program, trimming eligibility to two years and shifting more servicing to authorized dealers—moves designed to speed things up and tamp down costs. CPOs still hover around 40% above grey-market pricing, but shoppers seem willing to pay for provenance and a warranty that doesn’t come from a stranger in a Telegram group chat. A CPO Daytona heading to auction could prove a telling barometer of just how far trust can stretch in the pre-owned universe.
In the UK, Breitling is feeling the squeeze, posting a 24% sales dip to £58 million and similarly sagging profits. The brand’s boutique expansion hasn’t been enough to offset a cooling retail climate, though management insists the cure is simple: better product, better service, and, presumably, fewer headwinds. Across the Channel, the vintage spotlight turns to Monaco, where a 14k yellow gold Rolex Daytona Paul Newman is expected to push toward €1 million at Antiquorum. It’s the first gold Newman to appear via an authorized retailer’s CPO program, and collectors are already circling like sharks at feeding time.
As 2025 winds down, everyone is still digesting the year’s surprise U.S. tariff rollercoaster—first a shocking 39% duty on Swiss watches, then a negotiated glide-down (aka grift/bribe) to 15%. Brands front-loaded shipments to blunt the impact, keeping sales surprisingly steady. High-frequency movements, magnetic escapements, and a trophy case of awards (hello, Breguet) rounded out a year that managed to be both disruptive and oddly optimistic. If 2026 wants to top that, it’s going to have to try very, very hard.
And speaking of optimism, Vacheron Constantin spent its 270th year proving heritage and innovation can indeed hold hands. The revival of the Historiques 222 and the sleek Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin bookend a year dominated by the 41-complication Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grande Complication—eight years in the making and just subtle enough for casual brunch wear. Vacheron’s creative and archival muscle was also on display through La Quête du Temps at the Louvre and a burst of Métiers d’Art creations that showed why the maison still plays its own game.
The stories kept coming: a newly unearthed 1970s Bvlgari confirmed as a Gerald Genta commission—complete with a period sketch that feels like a horological love note; microbrands reaching newfound maturity with designs from Paulin, Dennison, and Studio Underd0g collaborations; and a primer on how tachymeters work, just in case anyone wants to time themselves in a Porsche Speedster on the way to brunch. More Vacheron, too—this time through Christian Selmoni’s reflections on the maison’s cosmic, artistic, and technical tapestry.
Collectors also received a reminder that grading matters—not just for diamonds but for watches, where standardized assessment still lags behind. Insurance providers are now tailoring policies that account for market appreciation, which sounds like the kind of thing a watch lover doesn’t know they need until they absolutely do. Solar-powered calibres also had their moment, with LVMH backing next-gen tech that hides photovoltaic cells beneath transparent dials. And in a burst of creative energy, MB&F gave us its galaxy of ideas while mid-century Omega models continued their steady rise as understated vintage darlings.
Emotional stories rounded out the day, with ten collectors reflecting on their most meaningful watch gifts—reminders that the heart of horology isn’t steel or gold but memory and sentiment. And if you prefer a little steel with your sentiment, today’s showdown between the Marathon TSAR and CWC SBS diver reaffirmed that authentic military tool watches are still very much alive and marching.
From Albishorn’s imagined-history monopusher to Bell & Ross polishing up its BR-05, from Czapek’s anniversary “Sursum Corda” to the triple-threat Frederique Constant x Time+Tide releases, the new-release pipeline stayed lively. Konstantin Chaykin channeled Botticelli; Parchie went lunar for kids; Roger Dubuis delivered F1 tires on your wrist; Robot offered Czech-meets-Swiss mechanics; and Seiko unveiled a Pink Panther edition cute enough to make even the toughest diver smile. Vacheron reappeared yet again with The Master of Time, because apparently 41 complications weren’t enough. And Zeitwinkel’s new collaboration quietly reminded everyone that ten well-made pieces can matter more than a thousand loud ones.
Hands-on reviews showcased everything from the stone-dial Biver Automatique to Chopard’s L.U.C. Grand Strike with its sapphire gongs, plus charming minis like the Echo/Neutra Rivanera Piccolo, the travel-friendly Schwarz Etienne 1902 GMT, the rugged-dressy Serica Parade Linen, and the beautifully patterned Tissot PRX Damascus Steel.
On the entertainment front, YouTube and podcasts debated everything from microbrands to Hublot’s future to the psychological aftermath of buying a grail (Vacheron Constantin, again). And in the auction corner, your 2019 Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time continues drawing attention, sitting at $11,000 with days to go and looking like an increasingly attractive play in a market that loves a good blue dial.
Time keeps moving—and today, it moved fast. - Michael Wolf
News Time
$9.8 Million Patek Philippe ‘Tiffany’ Watch Stolen in Canberra Mansion Heist
Four French nationals executed a meticulously planned luxury watch heist in Canberra, targeting a mansion and escaping with around $10 million in goods. Among the 70 stolen items were ultra-rare pieces like the Patek Philippe 5711 “Tiffany” and Richard Mille RM88 “Smiley.” Police later arrested the suspects at a fast-food restaurant and recovered some items from a Sydney rental, though several marquee watches remain missing. The incident is being called one of Australia’s most significant luxury goods burglaries.
Rolex CPO partners compete with unregulated market
Rolex has reduced its Certified Pre-Owned eligibility from three years to two and shifted more servicing to authorized dealers to speed turnaround and lower costs. Although CPO prices can sit roughly 40% above the grey market, customers are paying for verified provenance and a brand-backed warranty. As the program matures, it could represent around 10% of global pre-owned Rolex value in 2025. A CPO-listed Daytona at auction may further shape perceptions and dealer strategies.
Breitling UK sales drop 24% in tough trading environment
Breitling’s UK sales fell 24.1% to £58 million in 2024–25, with operating profit down 24.6% to £2.3 million amid a challenging retail climate. The decline follows a post-pandemic spike and comes despite an expanding boutique and authorized retailer footprint. Competitors fared unevenly, with some major groups down and others up, while the broader UK watch market showed mixed signals. Breitling aims to steady performance through product quality and stronger customer service.
Ultra-rare Rolex Daytona Paul Newman headlines antiquorum auction
A solid 14k yellow gold Rolex Daytona Paul Newman is set to headline Antiquorum’s Monaco sale on December 12, 2025, opening at €550,000 with potential to reach €1 million. It is the first gold Paul Newman offered via an authorized Rolex retailer’s Certified Pre-Owned program, featuring an exceptional champagne dial with original tritium lume. The 181-lot auction also includes a 1959 GMT-Master Ref. 6542 in 18k gold and a steel Daytona Ref. 6263 “Oyster Paul Newman.” The sale at Accademia Fine Art underscores the enduring allure of vintage Rolex.
Memorable Moments: What Shook The Watch World In 2025?
A surprise 39% U.S. tariff on Swiss watches announced on August 1 was later negotiated down to 15%, prompting brands to pre-ship inventory and keep U.S. sales resilient. The year also saw notable technical strides, including high-frequency movements and magnetic escapements from prestigious makers. Awards recognized standouts such as Breguet’s Classique Souscription 2025, while LVMH bolstered capabilities with a stake in La Joux-Perret. 2025 closed as a pivotal year, setting up an uncertain yet potentially transformative 2026.
Feature Time
Vacheron Constantin’s Extraordinary Year
In its 270th year, Vacheron Constantin balanced heritage and innovation, reviving icons like the Historiques 222 in steel and unveiling major technical statements. Center stage was the Les Cabinotiers Solaria Ultra Grande Complication with an unprecedented 41 complications, the fruit of eight years of development. The brand also presented La Quête du Temps at the Louvre and introduced Métiers d’Art pieces alongside contemporary references such as the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. The year underscored Vacheron’s mastery of craft and forward-looking vision.
Unearthing A Forgotten Bvlgari By Gerald Genta
A time-only Bvlgari from the 1970s surfaced at a small auction house, sparking a deep-dive into its origins and design authorship. Conversations with Bvlgari leadership and the Gerald Genta Heritage Association confirmed it as a Gerald Genta-commissioned piece, supported by a period sketch from Alexia Genta. The investigation reveals Genta’s fearless artistry and the enduring impact of his design language. It’s a reminder that horology still hides meaningful stories waiting to be discovered.
Fratello Talks: The Best Microbrand Watches Of 2025
Microbrands in 2025 showed clear maturity, blending ambitious engineering with bold aesthetics. Highlights included Paulin’s Mara diver and Dennison’s ALD Dual Time, while collaborations like Sartory Billard × Studio Underd0g SB05 “Sunflower” showcased artisanal flair. Material innovation and mechanical complexity appeared in pieces like RZE’s UTD 8000 CKG and Berneron’s Quantième Annuel. The year marked a shift from experimentation to refinement, signaling growing influence on mainstream watchmaking.
How a Tachymeter Works
A tachymeter scale on a chronograph translates elapsed time over a known distance into speed, making it a natural tool for motorsport timing. Unlike a tachometer that reads RPM, the tachymeter is about practical, real-world pace. Start the chronograph as you accelerate in something like a Porsche Speedster and read your speed when the distance marker passes. It’s a classic feature that remains functionally relevant for racing enthusiasts and watch fans alike.
Christian Selmoni - Style & Heritage Director Vacheron Constantin
Vacheron’s 270th anniversary spotlighted the synergy of archives and innovation, from the Louvre’s La Quête du Temps to Celestia-level grand complications. Showpieces like the Armillary Tourbillon – Le Mythe des Pléiades and Hommage aux Guerriers Épiques fused intricate engineering with artful craftsmanship. Cosmica Duo introduced a reversible concept exploring celestial and kinetic themes. Favorites like Historiques 222 and Traditionnelle underscored the maison’s enduring identity.
Why Grading Matters And How It Impacts The Value Of Your Collection
Standardized grading transformed the jewelry market by providing a shared language for quality and value, much like the GIA did for diamonds. Watches face similar challenges, where clarity around grading can bolster confidence and help appraisers determine fair market value. For collectors, the right insurance can protect against market shifts, ensuring payouts reflect current prices. Tailored policies with appreciation protection help safeguard cherished pieces and financial investment.
Let The Sun Shine In: There’s A New Day Rising for Solar-Powered Watches
Solar technology is gaining momentum, with LVMH’s stake in La Joux-Perret signaling strategic interest in advanced solar quartz calibres. Brands leverage innovations like transparent dials to hide photovoltaic cells, delivering long reserves and easy charging from multiple light sources. While not replacing mechanical watches, solar offers a sustainable, low-maintenance option for enthusiasts. Dedicated makers like Solios and Sunrex show the category’s potential to reshape everyday watch choices.
MB&F Brand Story: A Watch Brand and Its Galaxy of Ideas
MB&F crafts machines that merge art and engineering, creating narratives that challenge conventional horology. Each piece is a conceptual exploration that invites enthusiasts into a universe of ideas and inspirations. The result is a portfolio that resonates through originality, craftsmanship, and bold design. MB&F stands as a beacon for creative expression in modern watchmaking.
Rediscovering the Golden Age of Omegas: A Collector’s Guide
Mid-century Omega watches from the 1940s–1960s pair technical integrity with elegant design, from bumper-rotor Seamasters to the precise Calibre 30T2. The Constellation’s pie-pan dials and chronometer movements epitomize the era’s refinement. As vintage interest grows, collectors focus on originality, condition, and movement quality for enduring value. These pieces offer an accessible and sustainable gateway into meaningful watch collecting.
10 Collectors on Their Most Meaningful Watch Gifts
Watches carry emotional weight, especially as gifts exchanged during pivotal life moments. Stories range from heirlooms passed down through generations to commemorative pieces celebrating births and milestones. These narratives show how a watch can become a symbol of love, memory, and resilience. They remind us that the best timepieces often transcend utility to embody personal history.
Comparing Time
Military Watch Showdown: Testing The Marathon TSAR vs CWC SBS Diver
This comparison contrasts two authentic military divers with different missions. The CWC SBS Diver, built for British forces, prioritizes stealth, comfort, and daily wearability, pairing a reliable Swiss quartz movement with a matte PVD case and strong lume. The Marathon TSAR is a rugged rescue-oriented tool with a high-torque movement, tritium illumination, and tank-like construction that trades subtlety for maximum durability. Both are bona fide military watches, but the SBS’s balance of authenticity and versatility makes it the more practical everyday choice.
The Latest Time
Albishorn
Albishorn Introduces their Latest “Imaginary Vintage” Type 10
Albishorn’s Type 10 Officer imagines a 1948 officer’s monopusher chronograph that never existed, pairing a crisp white dial with luminescent black numerals for daylight legibility. Subdials track running seconds and elapsed minutes, while an oversized red pusher adds distinctive character. Inside is the COSC-certified ALB02 M with 65 hours of power reserve, housed in a 39 mm steel case that blends polished and satin finishes. Limited to 99 pieces and priced at CHF 3,950.
Bell & Ross
Bell & Ross Reveal BR-05 Grey Mirror Steel with High Polish Finish
This BR-05 brings a mirror-polished, minimalist dial to the integrated-bracelet sports format, trading the brand’s usual toolish vibe for a sleek, dressier presence. The 40 mm satin-brushed case houses the BR-CAL.321-1 with a 54-hour power reserve and 100 meters of water resistance. The pared-back dial omits lume for a clean, monochrome aesthetic that highlights the finishing. Limited to 250 pieces at £4,800 on rubber or £5,300 on a steel bracelet.
Czapek & Cie
Czapek Releases the Quai des Bergues “Sursum Corda” as the Final Anniversary Collection
Marking 180 years since François Czapek’s Geneva atelier, the “Sursum Corda” closes a 10-piece limited series with a rose gold case and Grand Feu enamel dial inspired by an 1850s pocket watch. Details include a secret signature visible at certain angles and a laser-engraved anniversary inscription. A new 40.5 mm case sets the standard for the line, powered by the hand-wound SXH1 with a seven-day reserve. Two regular-production Quai des Bergues models debut alongside this finale.
Frederique Constant
Frederique Constant x Time+Tide Highlife Moonphase Manufacture Onyx Moon
Limited to 100 pieces, this collaboration debuts an onyx stone dial without hour markers and a moonphase-date layout driven by the in-house FC-716 with 72-hour power reserve. The 39 mm stainless steel case stays versatile at 100 meters and ships with a 5-link bracelet plus two extra straps. Dressy meets sporty in a configuration that elevates the Highlife line’s finishing and functionality. Priced at US$5,695.
Introducing: The Frederique Constant x Time+Tide Highlife Moonphase Date Manufacture ‘Onyx Moon’ - Read More >
Time+Tide x Frederique Constant Highlife Moonphase Manufacture Onyx Moon - Read More >
Konstantin Chaykin
Konstantin Chaykin’s Venus is Arty and Naughty
Limited to 99 pieces, Venus reinterprets Botticelli via rotating-disc time display, a warm copper guilloché dial evoking flowing hair, and a cleverly integrated moon phase. The 40 mm case with single crown keeps lines elegant, while the La Joux‑Perret G200 provides a 68-hour reserve. Water resistance is 30 meters, and the Wristmon spirit remains unmistakable. Priced at CHF 20,000 before taxes.
Parchie
The Parchie “Lunar-Time” Limited Editions For Hodinkee
Designed to spark kids’ curiosity, these space-inspired aluminum watches come in 32 mm and 36 mm sizes with oversized crowns, adjustable straps, and 30 meters of water resistance. Japanese quartz movements and creamy dials keep things simple and robust, while the tube-shaped box amplifies the fun. Limited to 500 of each size, they’re great for shared learning between kids and parents. Priced at $75 (32 mm) and $85 (36 mm).
Roger Dubuis
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Pirelli Flyback Chronograph Mexico Edition
This 28-piece edition celebrates eight years with Pirelli, using a black carbon case, scratchproof ceramic bezel, and a strap made from actual F1-used Pirelli tires. The RD780 calibre meets Poinçon de Genève, featuring a 120-degree Rotating Minute Counter in Mexican flag colors and a Second Braking System for precise timing. The engraved caseback and tri-color dial elements cement the motorsport identity. Sticker price is $101,500.
Robot
Robot Leaps Forward with the Robotic One
Handsome Czech craftsmanship meets Swiss mechanics in a 43.2 mm, 904L steel, sunburst-finished case with uniquely sculpted pushers. The dial emphasizes legibility with thick Super‑LumiNova numerals, while a semi‑integrated quick‑release bracelet boosts comfort. The automatic chronograph movement, co-developed with La Joux‑Perret, offers a 55-hour reserve and 100 meters of water resistance. Available in blue, black, or silver at $9,000.
Seiko
Seiko 5 Sports Pink Panther Limited Edition SRPM07
Based on the compact SKX format, this 38 mm Seiko 5 Sports edition brings a matte pink dial with embossed footprints, a matching bezel scale, and day-date display. The automatic 4R36 keeps things dependable at 100 meters of water resistance, with both bracelet and a Pink Panther-themed strap included. Limited to 9,999 pieces, availability begins January 2026. Price is EUR 460.
Vacheron Constantin
The Master of Time
Limited to 20 pieces, this Métiers d’Art tribute translates the “Quest of Time” astronomical clock into a 43 mm haute complication with a figurine indicating time and a dramatic 3D moon. Caliber 3670 packs 512 parts and a six-day dual retrograde power reserve, with twin sapphire crystals and titanium components elevating the architecture. A sky chart and detailed moon functions underscore its celestial focus. The result is an intricate blend of engineering and hand-crafted artistry.
Zeitwinkel
The New Zeitwinkel 082º x The Limited Edition
Celebrating The Limited Edition’s 10th anniversary, this 39 mm steel collaboration features a textured 2N gold center, black chapter ring, and diamond-cut hands for crisp legibility. The ZW0102 automatic beats at 28,800 vph with a 72-hour reserve, visible finishing, and 50 meters of water resistance. Limited to 10 pieces, it pairs refined casework with a grey leather strap and engraved clasp. Priced at CHF 14,900.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Biver
Hands On: Biver Automatique with Exotic Stone Dials
Biver’s Automatique line pairs exotic stone dials and enamel with long-lasting construction, including high‑palladium gold movement plates designed to resist tarnish. The JCB‑003 calibre features a micro‑rotor and a return‑to‑zero function for quick time setting, while bridges are finished with refined Clous de Paris guilloché. Materials span quartzite, lavender jade, and tiger iron, with optional gem settings emphasizing both beauty and permanence. The collection’s pricing reflects its exclusivity and artisanal focus.
Chopard
Hands On: Chopard L.U.C. Grand Strike
Created for the manufacture’s 30th anniversary, the L.U.C. Grand Strike is Chopard’s most complex wristwatch, combining a grande sonnerie and a minute repeater with patented sapphire gongs. The COSC‑certified tourbillon movement displays dual power reserves, and the open cityscape architecture reveals its intricacies beneath a minimalist dial. Housed in 18k white gold at 43 mm by 14 mm, it balances presence and wearability despite formidable mechanics. Price: CHF 780,000.
Echo/Neutra
Hands-On With The Charming Echo/Neutra Rivanera Piccolo
The Rivanera Piccolo refines the original with three smaller models in lightweight Grade 5 titanium, each powered by the automatic Sellita SW1000 with hacking and a 46‑hour reserve. A Musou Black option absorbs 99.4% of light for dramatic contrast, while two guilloché variants offer classic texture. Fine‑grain sandblasting, polished edges, and thoughtful proportions give the 26 mm case presence beyond its size. Price: €1,640.
Schwarz Etienne
Schwarz Etienne 1902 GMT
Crafted in Grade 5 titanium, the 1902 GMT blends travel practicality with elegant details, including facetted hands and a dial in blue or silver. The in‑house ASE 320.00 with micro‑rotor keeps a slim profile while displaying home and local time simultaneously. Finishing is refined and cohesive, reflecting the brand’s La Chaux‑de‑Fonds heritage. Price: CHF 19,850.
Serica
The Serica Parade Linen Ref. 1174-3 Is An Elegant Yet Rugged Dress Watch
Serica’s Parade Linen pairs a tobacco‑brown linen‑textured dial with the brand’s utilitarian DNA in a 35 mm “Stadium” case that’s just 8.2 mm thick. The Soprod M100 automatic offers a 42‑hour reserve, while 100 meters of water resistance keeps it robust for daily wear. A brown calf strap with alligator embossing dresses it up, even as the design stays restrained and versatile. Price: $1,752 USD.
Tissot
Hands-On: the Tissot PRX Damascus Steel 38mm - One of the Biggest Surprises of 2025
The PRX Damascus Steel 38 mm uses 70 layers of steel to create striking natural patterns across the case and dial, bringing artisanal appeal to an accessible price point. Inside is the Powermatic 80.111 with sapphire crystal and 100 meters of water resistance for daily reliability. A textured black leather strap complements the patterned metalwork while keeping the silhouette sleek. Price: $1,175.
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Talking Time
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BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Thursday’s auction watch, the 2012 Patek Philippe Nautilus Moonphase 40MM Grey Dial Leather Strap (5712G-001)- was bid to $51,000 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2019 Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time 41MM Blue Dial Steel Bracelet (7900V/110A-B334)
Auction Report: Blue-Chip Travel Companion: 2019 Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time 7900V/110A-B334
The 2019 Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time reference 7900V/110A-B334 is one of those watches that feels very much like the “right” modern travel watch at the “right” moment in the market. This example is represented as being in very good condition and comes with inner and outer boxes, additional items, and papers dated November 28, 2019—exactly the sort of complete, early set collectors like to see when they’re trying to justify a hammer price deep into five figures. That 2019 warranty card neatly anchors it in the first few years of production, when the blue dial steel Dual Time had already picked up momentum as the thinking person’s integrated sports watch.
The current Overseas line traces its roots back to the legendary reference 222 from the late 1970s, designed by Jörg Hysek as Vacheron Constantin’s answer to the emerging luxury steel sports watch category. The modern Overseas Dual Time was introduced in 2017 and rolled into full production shortly after; the 7900V/110A-B334 brought a proper in-house dual-time complication in stainless steel, with that lacquered blue dial collectors quickly pegged as a future classic. In other words, this reference isn’t just a travel tool, it’s also one of the key “pillar” models in the third-generation Overseas family.
Mechanically, the watch is powered by the in-house caliber 5110 DT, a self-winding movement based on Vacheron Constantin’s 5100 architecture, developed specifically for an additional time zone and AM/PM indication. It runs at 4 Hz, offers a 60-hour power reserve from a twin-barrel setup, and is composed of 234 components with 37 jewels. As you’d expect from the maison, it carries the Hallmark of Geneva and features a 22k gold rotor shaped like a compass rose—an on-the-nose but charming nod to the spirit of travel. The 41 mm stainless-steel case is a very wearable size, with around 12.8 mm thickness and a robust 150 m water resistance rating, putting real sport credentials behind the dressy blue sunburst dial.
Functionally, this is one of the cleaner dual-time executions on the market. The main hour hand is set up for local time, with an independently jumping adjustment so you can step through hours when you land without disturbing the minutes. A triangular-tipped hand tracks home time on the same 12-hour scale, with a day/night indicator at roughly 9 o’clock tied to that reference time. The pointer-date at 6 o’clock is synchronized to local time and adjusted via a discreet pusher, a nice touch that keeps the crown from becoming a three-act puzzle box. Paired with the deep blue sunburst dial, applied indices, and luminous hands, it’s a layout that reads quickly on the wrist but still rewards a closer look in good light.
Your example arrives on the full stainless-steel bracelet with hidden folding clasp, which is precisely where most collectors want this watch to start. The current generation Overseas bracelet uses half-Maltese-cross links and an easy micro-adjustment system for fine-tuning fit on the fly. The factory package originally included quick-change leather and rubber straps as well, and while the listing doesn’t spell out which “additional items” are present, any original strap set and extra links should help push bidding along. Between the quick-release system and the travel-friendly complication, this really is a “fly out Friday, back Monday” piece that can go from airport lounge to client dinner without breaking character.
On to the money. When new, the 7900V/110A-B334 carried an MSRP around $30,900. As of late 2024, grey-market pricing data pegged the average market value for this “previous generation” blue Dual Time at roughly $27,000, with some upward pressure since thanks to broader Overseas demand and the introduction of the updated 7920V line. Current real-world listings for the 7900V/110A-B334 full-set on major platforms cluster in the high-20s to low-30s: Chrono24 shows multiple examples between roughly $25,000 and low-30s, with an average listing price around $33,000 and a typical range quoted from about $27,000 to $48,000 depending on condition and seller optimism. Retailers and dealers are singing from the same hymnal: one pre-owned dealer posts a “special price” of about $29,000, another sits around $33,450 after a steep markdown from a wildly inflated “original” tag, and yet another high-end shop lists a 2020 example at $33,950.
Given that backdrop, a 2019, very-good-condition blue Dual Time with boxes and 2019-dated papers should logically trade somewhere in the upper-20s to low-30s in today’s market, with auction dynamics adding the usual spice. If bidding stalls in the mid-20s, the eventual buyer will be walking away with a legitimate value play relative to current dealer asks. A result in the $28,000–$32,000 range would feel fair to both sides. Anything pushing meaningfully north of $32,000 means at least two determined travelers decided they absolutely had to own this reference on that particular Sunday night.
As the auction ticks toward its 7:50 p.m. close on Sunday, December 14, 2025, this Overseas Dual Time shapes up as a textbook example of where modern Vacheron Constantin lives: not as the loudest steel sports watch in the room, but as the connoisseur’s choice. You get top-tier finishing, a smart and genuinely useful complication, pedigree that runs back to the 222, and a blue dial that has already entered the “modern classic” conversation. For a collector who spends as much time on airplanes as on forums, this is exactly the kind of lot that justifies one more bid.
Current bid: $11,000
Fantastic roundup as always. The Canberra heist story is wildly entertaining, especially the part where these guys pulled off a $10 million mansion job complete with a Patek Tiffany dial only to get nabbed at a fast-food joint. Used to work in private security consulting and I've seen similar capers unravel over the dumbest operational lapses after meticulous planning. The irony of high-stakes precision crumbling at McDonald's is almost poetic, and teh fact that several marquee pieces are still missing means the secondary market is gonna be on high alert for months.