BuyingTime Daily - December 11, 2025
Swiss watch tariffs drop to 15%, Cartier expands in Palm Beach, microbrands gain steam, and year-end launches flood the market in a packed day across the watch universe.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe — December 11, 2025
The big story today is the long-awaited tariff reset finally arriving like a holiday gift someone forgot to wrap. U.S. duties on Swiss watch imports are now capped at 15%—and, in a twist worthy of a plot-driven GMT complication, the rollback is retroactive to November 14. Importers are already eyeing refunds, the Swiss government is smiling again, and brands are recalibrating strategies. Patek Philippe may restore some dealer margins, while Rolex and Audemars Piguet—which stoically ate the earlier tariff shock—suddenly look very shrewd for keeping prices steady when others flinched. The months ahead could rewrite U.S. retail pricing more meaningfully than any “holiday sale.” Paying off the President of the U.S. with a clock and a gold bar was simply genius.
In UK retail news, Signet’s Ernest Jones and H. Samuel banners continue slimming down their footprint, and the shrinking store base finally caught up to sales, which dipped 2% amid fierce local competition. With watches making up a disproportionate share of the UK mix, losing doors hurts. Meanwhile, the quietly dependable F. Hinds demonstrated that sometimes the best strategy during turmoil is simply to keep the lights on and stock 50 brands. Its 4% sales growth and higher profits underline how mid-market resilience can outrun luxury when tourist spending evaporates.
Stateside, new-school distributor CHP Caliber is hitting its stride, adding retailers and microbrand partners with the enthusiasm of someone discovering how fun watch collecting gets when you bring friends. Its roster—Hampden, Briston, and more—suggests an appetite for mixing history with modern indie flavor, and the plan to scale to 25–30 Northeast retailers next year feels ambitious but grounded in momentum.
On the maison front, Cartier has opened yet another jewel box of a boutique, this time in Palm Beach’s historic Royal Poinciana Playhouse. Picture Regency friezes, Murano glass seashells, and a sheen of luxury so bright you need sunglasses. Over in London, A. Lange & Söhne is now greeting Bond Street with four floors of German precision, crowned by a limited Daymatic with a cocoa-brown dial that looks tailored for Mayfair winter light.
Independents also took a victory lap today. De Bethune is bringing hairspring production fully in-house—a technical flex reserved for the rarest of the rare—while Isotope turned its quirky design language into a pair of wall clocks, proving that horological personality doesn’t need to stay on the wrist. Revolution’s retrospective of 21st-century icons, meanwhile, reminds us how far the industry has traveled since the Quartz Crisis and how many innovators—big and small—reshaped mechanical watchmaking into modern art.
Year-end releases kept rolling in: TAG Heuer dropped sleek Monaco concepts and a minimalist Fragment-influenced Carrera; Angelus, Alpina, Frederique Constant, Lederer, Maurice Lacroix, Richard Mille, Serica, and Urwerk filled out the calendar with everything from crystallized titanium cases to inverted movements to limited-edition mocha dials. The industry may be tired, but it’s clearly not done.
On the review circuit, Dennison, Laco/Circula, Roger Smith, and Seiko all reminded us that great design spans the full price spectrum—from $890 dual-time stone dials to £320,000 hand-finished British masterworks. And in BuyingTime’s auction corner, last night’s Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris didn’t meet reserve at $9,300, but today’s spotlight shifts to a 2012 Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712G-001 that’s already stirring collector interest well before tonight’s bidding cutoff.
Another full day, another reminder that the watch world rarely slows down—though thanks to a retroactive tariff cut, at least your import duties finally did.
News Time
Tariff cut on Swiss watch imports backdated to November 14
U.S. tariffs on Swiss watch imports have been reduced from over 39% to a maximum of 15%, retroactive to November 14, 2025, providing immediate relief and potential refunds for importers. The Swiss government expects the change to restore competitiveness and improve U.S. market access relative to EU and other partners. Brands must now decide whether to reverse price increases enacted during the tariff spike, with Patek Philippe expected to restore dealer margins. Rolex and Audemars Piguet absorbed prior costs without raising prices, which could prove advantageous as conditions normalize.
Business News: U.S. Tariffs On Swiss Goods Officially Rolled Back To 15% Retroactive To November 14 - Read More >
Store closures cause Signet Jewelers-owned UK retailers’ sales to shrink by 2% in latest quarter
Signet’s UK business saw sales fall 2% amid store closures and intensifying competition from rivals like F. Hinds and Beaverbrooks. The portfolio has been pared back to 81 Ernest Jones and 167 H. Samuel stores, down sharply from 272 a year earlier. A recent nine‑store reduction triggered a $2.1 million one‑time charge and contributed to a $6.4 million operating loss in the region. The pressure is acute because UK sales skew more heavily toward watches, and recent monobrand initiatives have faced setbacks as brands migrated to competitors.
3 going on 30: CHP Caliber launches new retailers as expansion continues
New York–based distributor CHP Caliber is closing its first year with three retail partners and two added brands, positioning itself as a conduit between independent makers and U.S. retailers. Early placements at Store 52, Mills Jewelers, and NAGI Jewelers mix international design with community‑driven curation. The portfolio now includes names like Hampden and Briston, reflecting a strategy to reintroduce historic and stylish watch brands to the American market. Targeting 25–30 Northeast retailers by mid‑2026, the company argues independent retailers are essential to nurturing microbrands and deepening collector engagement.
Cartier’s sector-defining boutique rollout continues
Cartier has opened a new Palm Beach boutique inside the historic Royal Poinciana Playhouse, continuing expansion into affluent destinations. The space showcases Swiss watches and high jewelry, echoing the site’s 1958 architecture with Regency details, classical friezes, and hand‑painted local flora. Floor‑to‑ceiling ombré curtains, water views, and Murano glass seashell lighting create a luminous, coastal ambiance. The opening underscores Cartier’s investment in immersive luxury environments aimed at an upscale, high‑profile clientele.
No frills F. Hinds grows faster than luxury peers
F. Hinds increased sales 4% to £86.3 million in a tough economy, outpacing growth at luxury players and highlighting the drag from the UK’s tourist tax on high‑end retail. Operating profit rose 7% to £8.1 million, signaling resilience in the mass‑market segment. Run by the sixth generation of the family, the retailer now counts 118 stores and a broad watch lineup spanning nearly 50 brands. The results suggest consumers are gravitating toward accessible options even as luxury faces macro headwinds.
Feature Time
Fratello Favorites: The Best Watches Of 2025 — Jorg’s Picks From Vacheron Constantin, Grand Seiko, Laventure, And More
Fratello highlights five standout watches from 2025, led by the Grand Seiko U.F.A. SLGB005 with its vivid purple dial and advanced movement. Nomos’s Club Sport Neomatik Worldtimer adds colorful GMT practicality, while Laventure’s Marine Type 3 impresses with a luminous, lightweight build. Vacheron’s Historiques 222 is praised for timeless comfort, and Rolex’s Cosmograph Daytona ref. 126518LN stands out for its refined color and design. The list reflects hands‑on impressions and a genuine desire to wear every pick.
A. Lange & Söhne’s new Bond Street flagship merges German charm with Mayfair poise
A. Lange & Söhne opens a four‑storey flagship on London’s Old Bond Street that blends German elegance with Mayfair sophistication. The boutique invites visitors into the brand’s craft through displays of hand‑finished components and immersive watchmaking storytelling. To mark the opening, a limited Daymatic with a retrograde day display and matte cocoa‑brown dial debuts in 250 pieces. At just 10.4mm thick, it spotlights Lange’s pursuit of precision and proportion.
Down to the Wire: De Bethune’s In-House Hairsprings
De Bethune is moving hairspring production in‑house, joining a rare group that can process alloy wire into finished balance springs. The project spans wire drawing, rolling, cutting, heat treatment, and assembly to create bespoke hairsprings tailored to specific balances and movements. It’s a technically demanding, scale‑sensitive endeavor that few brands attempt. Success could further elevate De Bethune’s chronometric reputation and strategic appeal.
Isotope Convert Signature Watch Designs into Clocks with Wall Return and Exit Clock
Isotope translates its Hydrium X design language into two wall clocks: Wall Return and Exit Clock. Wall Return evokes classic British shop signs with red hands and a blue bezel, while Exit Clock features a fully luminous green dial with a pictogram figure. Each measures 35cm in aluminum and runs on Seiko quartz, limited to 300 and 200 units respectively, at £244. The pair balances playful aesthetics with everyday functionality for distinctive decor.
The Revolutionary List : The Icons of 21st Century Watchmaking
Revolution marks its 20th anniversary with a survey of 21st‑century milestones, tracing watchmaking’s evolution after the Quartz Crisis. The feature celebrates visionary leaders, iconic references, and breakthrough innovations that turned watches into expressive artworks. It also underscores the dynamic interplay of tradition and technology across independent and major maisons. Importantly, it recognizes women’s expanding contributions, pointing to a more inclusive future.
Design is key in TAG Heuer’s latest watch releases
TAG Heuer closes 2025 with high‑profile launches at Dubai Watch Week and Art Basel Miami, including luminous, high‑tech Monaco concepts. A fresh collaboration with Hiroshi Fujiwara’s Fragment reinterprets the Carrera by refining signature elements rather than redesigning from scratch. The watch contrasts a curved white flange with a black‑on‑black dial, swapping markers for subtle lume dots and adding a Fragment date‑wheel logo. The minimalist approach emphasizes balance, intentionality, and narrative clarity.
The Latest Time
Angelus
Angelus Unveils Chronodate Gold & Titanium Moka Editions
Angelus introduces two Chronodate limited editions in “Moka,” pairing a luxurious mocha dial with multi-material modular cases. The 5N red gold model is limited to 5 pieces and the grade‑5 titanium to 25 pieces, both with carbon‑fibre composite structures and oversized, highly legible counters. Inside is the in‑house A‑500 automatic chronograph with a column wheel and 60‑hour power reserve, finished in dark anthracite NAC with signature Angelus detailing. Prices are CHF 25,100 (titanium) and CHF 43,100 (gold).
Alpina
The 2025 Alpina Alpiner Extreme Automatic Freeride World Tour
Celebrating its ninth year with the Freeride World Tour, Alpina’s 39 × 40.5 mm cushion‑case model arrives in a monochrome grey inspired by alpine rock. It brings the FWT emblem to the dial for the first time, alongside excellent legibility and a practical date display. Powered by the AL‑525 automatic calibre, it offers a 38‑hour power reserve and 200 m water resistance on a cold‑resistant rubber strap with deployant clasp. Price: EUR 1,695.
Frederique Constant
Frederique Constant x Bamford: The Highlife Chronograph as a Bold Statement
Limited to 100 pieces, this Highlife Chronograph Automatic fuses Swiss precision with British avant‑garde flair in a 41 mm crystallized titanium case. Turquoise accents enliven a luminescent black dial, while the FC‑391 automatic chronograph delivers a 60‑hour power reserve. Three quick‑change straps (black rubber, turquoise rubber, and black nubuck) broaden its versatility for modern wear. Price: CHF 4,495 (approximately $5,600).
Lederer
First Look: Lederer Inverto Titanium 39mm, A Superb Inverted Take on the Central Impulse Chronometer
The Inverto Titanium showcases a fully inverted movement derived from the Central Impulse Chronometer, framed by a highly domed sapphire for a dramatic 3D effect. The Grade 5 titanium case measures 39 mm by 10.5 mm, with blued skeletonized hands ensuring legibility without obscuring the mechanics. Calibre 9019 employs dual barrels and twin remontoirs, releasing energy in 15‑second increments for stability and precision. Price: CHF 152,000.
Maurice Lacroix
Good Things Come in Threes: Maurice Lacroix Introduces the Aikonic Master Triple Retrograde
Marking the brand’s 50th anniversary, the steel Aikonic Master Triple Retrograde features retrograde displays for home time, weekday, and date. An anthracite dial with vertical brushing and skeletonized openings reveals the ML291 automatic movement beneath. The 43 mm case blends polished and brushed finishes, a ceramic bezel with Aikon “claws,” 100 m water resistance, and an easy‑change rubber strap system. Price: $6,900.
Richard Mille
Richard Mille RM 07-01 Starry Night, RM 07-01 Baguette, RM 07-01 Gourmette, and RM 037 Red Gold
Celebrating two decades of women’s haute horlogerie, Richard Mille presents a cohesive lineup that marries strength, identity, and elegance. The RM 037 and RM 07‑01 feature signature tonneau cases, skeletonized automatics, and precious materials such as red and white gold, Carbon TPT, and ceramic. The designs maintain the brand’s ergonomic architecture while broadening the expressive scope of the Ladies Collection. Pricing not specified.
Serica
A Hands-On Introduction To The Playful And Elegant Serica 6190 TXD
Serica’s 6190 TXD debuts a black‑and‑beige “tuxedo” dial in the familiar 37.7 mm steel format, now with a more coherent minute track and hand‑applied indexes. The COSC‑certified Soprod M100 automatic ensures accuracy, while 200 m water resistance and a refined Bonklip bracelet keep it versatile. Its slim profile enhances comfort, striking a balance between casual charm and dressy poise. Price: €1,190.
Serica Ref. 6190 TXD, the Return of the Tuxedo Dial - Read More >
Urwerk
The Final Urwerk UR-230, The Black Star Edition
Closing the UR‑230 series, the Black Star Edition blends stealthy black and vivid yellow in a laminated composite‑ceramic case measuring 44.81 × 53.55 mm. A satellite wandering‑hours display meets a retrograde 3D hand and self‑winding movement with twin turbine regulation. Limited to 35 pieces with a 50‑hour power reserve and yellow vulcanized rubber strap, it teases new adventures ahead in 2026. Price: CHF 150,000.
Wearing Time - Reviews
Dennison
Dennison ALD Dual Time Watch Review: Stone Dial Dress Watches That Double The Fun
The Dennison ALD Dual Time refines the dress‑watch formula with a wider cushion‑style case and dual‑time display, offered with striking stone dials like bloodstone and lapis lazuli. A reliable Swiss quartz movement keeps things precise and low‑maintenance, ideal for formal and daily wear. The minimalist execution lets the textures and colors do the talking while maintaining strong wrist presence. Price: $890 USD.
Laco Uhrenmanufaktur
Laco x Circula ProLab
Marking Laco’s 100th and Circula’s 70th anniversaries, the ProLab two‑watch set pairs a sand‑dial Laco pilot with a black‑dial Circula field, each with crisp tool‑watch legibility. Both use the Sellita SW200‑1 and robust steel cases, with sapphire crystals and strong water resistance (200 m for Laco, 150 m for Circula). The collaboration honors shared Pforzheim roots while delivering complementary everyday functionality. Price: €2,390 for the limited set of 170 pieces.
Roger Smith
Roger Smith Series 6 Blends British Craftsmanship And Practicality In A Beautiful Way
The new Series 6 distills classic British watchmaking into a pared‑back, highly functional design featuring a “travelling date window.” Its bleached silver dial and hand‑executed guilloché emphasize elegance and legibility, while the updated single‑wheel co‑axial escapement improves efficiency. Six years in the making, the watch balances heritage techniques with thoughtful innovation. Price: approximately £320,000.
Seiko
The Seiko ‘Save the Ocean’ Diver I Didn’t Expect to Like Finally Gets It Right
This latest ‘Save the Ocean’ diver swaps heavy theming for a clean Tranquil Teal dial inspired by Okinawan waters, paired with a gray bezel and white indices. A 40 mm super‑hard‑coated steel case, 300 m water resistance, and a new microadjust clasp boost practicality. Limited to 4,000 pieces, it aims for accessibility while dialing in a grounded aesthetic. Price: $1,400.
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Talking Time
The Worn & Wound Podcast Ep. 428: Precision, Craft, and Carry - Designing Watches and Knives with Sam Amis
Zach Kazan interviews Sam Amis about the connection between pocket knives and watches, discussing design perspectives and community overlaps. Garrett Jones joins to share his experiences as an enthusiast in both fields. The episode emphasizes the craftsmanship and meaningfulness of these objects and encourages listeners to subscribe and engage with the podcast. Listen Now>
BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Wednesday’s auction watch, the 2025 Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph 42MM Grey Dial Textile Strap (Q902843J)- was bid to $9,300 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2012 Patek Philippe Nautilus Moonphase 40MM Grey Dial Leather Strap (5712G-001)
Auction Report: White-Gold Moonphase Royalty – Patek Philippe Nautilus 5712G-001
If you’re shopping for a Nautilus that doesn’t look like every other blue-steel Instagram flex, this 2012 Patek Philippe Nautilus Moonphase 5712G-001 is exactly the kind of off-beat, high-complication variant serious collectors hunt for quietly and buy decisively.
This reference pairs the familiar 40mm Nautilus case in 18k white gold with a slate grey dial that leans more “smoked elegance” than “sports icon.” Introduced in 2006 for the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus, the 5712 family added real mechanical interest to Genta’s design with a power reserve display, moon-phase/date subdial, and small seconds, all driven by the ultra-thin Caliber 240 PS IRM C LU. The 5712G-001 was part of the original trio of 5712 variants and, importantly, one of the first Nautilus models to embrace an integrated leather strap instead of a bracelet, shifting the watch firmly toward the “luxury complications” side of the line. Produced from 2006 until its discontinuation in 2024, the white-gold, strap-equipped 5712G has already crossed over from “current model” to “modern classic” status in collectors’ minds.
The example on the block comes with inner and outer boxes, additional items, and papers dated 2012, which puts it in the earlier half of the production run and gives it over a decade of quiet provenance. The seller represents it as being in very good condition, which, paired with a full set, is exactly the recipe the market favors for complicated Nautilus pieces. The asymmetrical layout remains the star: the power reserve arcing between 10 and 11 o’clock, the moon-phase/date display at 7, and the small seconds at 5 give the dial that slightly off-center charm that separates the 5712 from the more symmetrical 5711 crowd. The leather strap keeps the profile refined and under-the-radar, especially compared to steel bracelet Nautilus references that tend to shout a little louder.
On value, the broader market provides some clear guardrails. WatchCharts currently pegs the global pre-owned market estimate for the white-gold 5712G at roughly $73,600 as of December 9, 2025, reflecting the cooling but still-elevated post-mania Nautilus environment. Dealer listings for 5712G-001 with box and papers are frequently advertised in the mid-$80,000s to low-$100,000s, with several recent offerings clustered around the low- to mid-$80,000 range for very good, full-set examples. On the auction side, recent 2025 Hong Kong sales of 5712G-001 have landed mostly in the low- to mid-$60,000s to high-$70,000s before fees, depending on condition and sale venue, underlining that the “real money” tends to clear a bit below enthusiastic dealer asking prices.
Against that backdrop, a 2012 white-gold 5712G-001 in very good condition with full box and papers feels like a sweet spot: mature enough to have some light patina and history, but still thoroughly “modern Nautilus” with all the right details. Assuming the condition description holds up under close inspection and there are no service-history surprises, a rational hammer range for this piece would be somewhere in the mid-$60,000s to mid-$70,000s, with anything closer to the upper end reflecting strong bidding from collectors who specifically want an early-production, white-gold, strap-equipped example. If the gavel drops well below that band, it starts to look like an opportunistic buy; if it pushes well above it, you’re paying a premium for the convenience of getting a clean, documented watch right now rather than hunting in the dealer and private market.
With bidding scheduled to wrap at 7:40 p.m. on Thursday, December 11, 2025, this auction will serve as another small but telling datapoint in the post-hype Nautilus correction. For the collector who prefers their Patek Philippe sports watch in white gold, on leather, and with a dial full of useful complications rather than empty real estate, this 5712G-001 is exactly the kind of lot worth watching—and, if the numbers fall in line, worth chasing.
Current bid: $29,800