BuyingTime Daily - December 1, 2025
AP’s “Grosse Pièce” heads to auction, Richard Mille lands in Sydney, Dubai Watch Week shines, and a Patek 5326G hits the block—December starts strong.
Time Graphing today’s watch universe
Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe — December 1, 2025
Welcome to December, which means watch brands are sprinting to close the year with equal parts bravado, limited editions, and winter-themed MoonSwatches that you can only buy if Switzerland decides to sneeze snowflakes that afternoon. Today’s news cycle gives us everything from century-old mechanical grandeur to AI-designed Swatches, plus a remarkable number of complicated pieces quietly slipping into the world like it’s no big deal. Let’s dive in.
The headline act belongs to Audemars Piguet, whose legendary “Grosse Pièce,” the most complicated pocket watch still in private hands, heads to Sotheby’s on December 8 with a half-million-to-million-dollar estimate. Built over seven years beginning in 1914 and packing 19 complications—including a tourbillon and sky chart—it’s a reminder that AP wasn’t always about frosted Royal Oaks and limited editions; the brand’s big flexes used to be… big, literally.
At the other end of the spectrum sits the Abingdon Bonneville Blue, a sharp Vegas-born 40 mm pilot’s GMT limited to just 18 pieces. It’s a tool watch designed for women but with specs plenty of men will quietly covet, and its debut doubles as a celebration of the brand’s new Las Vegas boutique. Meanwhile in Sydney, Richard Mille is doing what Richard Mille does: opening a 270 m² ultra-exclusive boutique complete with a meditation area, because apparently even RM buyers need a quiet place to process the price of a tourbillon.
Corporate good deeds also make the headlines with Watches of Switzerland Group CEO Brian Duffy winning the King’s Trust Individual Impact Award. Under his leadership, the company has directed over £2.5 million toward youth programs across the UK and US, including a massive $10 million commitment from its foundation. It’s a welcome dose of humanity in an industry that often measures impact in microns and millimeters.
On the editorial side, homage watches get their moment with a roundup featuring everything from the surprisingly competent Invicta Pro Diver to the excellent Steinhart Ocean 39 GMT. Kalle Slaap’s “Watchmaking Explained” earns praise for being both informative and legitimately fun, thanks in part to 100+ QR-linked videos. The heavy hitters come next: Breguet quietly rolls out a glorious Ref. 7365 minute repeater and a stunning Grande Sonnerie pocket watch for its 250th anniversary, while Dubai Watch Week gets multiple love letters for its community-driven energy, real collector engagement, and general ability to show the Swiss how it’s done.
There’s also no shortage of buying advice. From budget-friendly highlights of Dubai Watch Week to Fratello’s top dive watches of 2025, the year’s best seem to span everything from Tudor to Omega to Doxa. Royal family watch valuations make a cameo, with everything from King Charles’s Parmigiani to Princess Diana’s Cartier gaining renewed intrigue. Dubai also shines again with a deep dive into the Seddiqi Rolex CPO boutique and its roughly 500 curated watches. And yes—Swatch now lets you design your own New Gent with AI, proving once again that 2025 really is the future.
The showdown of the day pits the Tudor Ranger Dune White against the Christopher Ward C65 Dune, and for once both sides make compelling cases. We also get a glimpse of Roger Dubuis’s quieter side with the Hommage La Placide, a back-to-basics perpetual calendar that feels wonderfully restrained. And if you’ve been wondering whether yellow gold is back, the answer is yes—Jaeger-LeCoultre, Rolex, Breguet, and others are all leaning into the glow.
Brands with a mission also make headlines: Split Watches launches a mental-health focused timepiece that donates an hour of therapy per watch sold. And Dubai Watch Week 2025 continues to be praised as the year’s best watch fair, thanks to its focus on learning, access, and human connection.
Fresh releases round out the news with strong offerings from Brellum, Favre Leuba, Greubel Forsey, Maurice Lacroix, Swatch, and Vyntage Horology. Meanwhile, on the review bench, everything from Audemars Piguet’s Starwheel to Grand Seiko’s SLGW007 earns thoughtful attention, showing just how crowded the high-end watch conversation has become this year.
And in the auction corner, the Patek Philippe 5326G-001 heads to the block tonight at 10:04 pm with a current bid of $30,700—a far cry from its roughly $100,000 retail, but that’s auctions for you. For anyone keeping score, Friday’s Urwerk UR-103 got to $15,600 but didn’t meet reserve—so yes, you can still “make an offer.”
That’s it for today. Enjoy December, enjoy the watches, and enjoy the fact that somewhere in Switzerland, a MoonSwatch is waiting patiently for snow.
- Michael Wolf
News Time
A Look at the ‘Grosse Pièce’ – Audemars Piguet’s Most Complicated Pocket Watch Still in Private Hands, Up for Auction at Sotheby’s
Audemars Piguet’s “Grosse Pièce,” long considered the most complicated pocket watch in private hands, heads to Sotheby’s on December 8 with an estimate of $500,000 to $1,000,000. Built over seven years beginning in 1914, the watch integrates 19 complications including a tourbillon and sky chart. Commissioned through S. Smith & Sons for a prominent client, it reflects the collaborative work of master watchmakers and AP’s early technical ambition. The sale is expected to draw major collectors and further elevate the watch’s historical stature.
Meet the Abingdon Bonneville Blue watch named for it’s Vegas location
Abingdon introduced the limited-edition Bonneville Blue during Las Vegas Watch Week, alongside opening a new boutique in the downtown Arts District. Designed as a tool watch for women, the 40 mm stainless steel model features a vibrant blue dial, bi-directional flight-computer inner bezel, and a Swiss Ronda GMT movement, and is limited to just 18 pieces at $599. The brand, founded by pilot and entrepreneur Abingdon Mullin in 2007, emphasizes function-first design with solid water resistance to 330 feet. Plans for a watch-making school and local assembly facility underline a deeper commitment to the community and the industry.
Richard Mille Sydney boutique opening
Richard Mille opened its first boutique in Australia and Oceania at Sydney’s Capella Hotel near Circular Quay, a 270 m² space featuring unique amenities like a sports bar and meditation area. Though the store displays fewer watches, the emphasis is on exclusivity and a highly curated client experience in response to strong demand. Members of the Mille family shared a 2025 production goal of 6,000 pieces, underscoring the brand’s commitment to quality over quantity. The boutique gives Australian clients a local destination for engagement, service, and relationship-building with the brand.
Watches Of Switzerland Group CEO Brian Duffy Wins King’s Trust Award
Brian Duffy, CEO and Foundation Chair of Watches of Switzerland Group, received the King’s Trust Individual Impact Award for contributions to the youth charity across the UK and US. Under his leadership, the Group has donated over £2.5 million since 2013 to help remove barriers to education, training, and employment. The Watches of Switzerland Group Foundation, granted charitable status in 2021, has committed $10 million to programs focused on poverty relief and youth support. Duffy credited the broader team’s efforts and highlighted initiatives like the 2025 Change A Girl’s Life campaign and the Global Young Achiever Award.
Feature Time
7 Homage Watches That Surprised Us: From Omega to Rolex-Inspired Icons
Homage watches can be thoughtful, well-built alternatives that deliver real enjoyment without luxury price tags. Standouts range from the compact Addiesdive AD2030 and vintage-leaning Timex Standard to the surprisingly capable Invicta Pro Diver. Sub-$200 picks like the Duxot Henri Diver Automatic and San Martin SN004 Mil-Sub elevate expectations, while the Steinhart Ocean 39 GMT offers a compelling GMT-Master II alternative. Together they challenge assumptions about what budget-friendly homages can achieve.
Book Review: Watchmaking Explained, A Book By Expert Watchmaker Kalle Slaap
Kalle Slaap’s Watchmaking Explained breaks down movements, tools, workshop setup, and the professional side of the craft with clarity and wit. Over 100 QR codes unlock exclusive videos that deepen understanding and bring the lessons to life. Endorsed by the British Horological Institute, it spans history, techniques, and hands-on repair guidance in 278 pages. Priced at EUR 95, it includes access to extra content and a forum for ongoing learning.
Breguet Quietly Launches The Impressive Ref. 7365 Minute Repeater And Classique Grande Sonnerie Métiers d’Art 1905 Pocket Watch
Breguet marks its 250th anniversary with the Ref. 7365 Minute Repeater in 18k “Breguet gold,” a 39.1 mm wristwatch with a blue grand feu enamel dial. It debuts the manual-wind caliber 1896 with 75-hour power reserve and regulation within ±2 seconds per day. The Classique Grande Sonnerie pocket watch pairs a minute repeater with a one-minute tourbillon and a magnetic regulator for precise chime timing. The wristwatch is limited to 25 pieces at $369,600, while the pocket watch is price on request.
Buying Guide: The Best Of Dubai Watch Week 2025 On A Sort Of Budget
This guide highlights standout releases under €10,000 from roughly 90 brands at Dubai Watch Week 2025. Picks include the refreshed Oris ProPilot Date at €1,950 to €2,150 and the Frederique Constant Classics Moonphase Date Turquoise at €4,895. The Atelier Wen X Revolution Ancestra Jao and the Norqain Independence Wild One Meteorite bring cultural craft and limited-edition appeal. Doxa’s Sub 300B Cherry Red and Tudor’s new Dune White Ranger dial round out an enthusiast-friendly lineup.
Dubai Watch Week 2025 Delivers A Needed Boost And Lessons For Luxury Watch Brands
Dubai Watch Week contrasts with traditional Swiss shows by centering hospitality, community, and direct collector engagement. The event’s relaxed, consumer-forward environment helps brands reconnect with enthusiasts and gather real-time feedback. Amid economic uncertainty, it serves as a morale boost and a blueprint for experience-driven luxury. The takeaway for brands is clear: prioritize human connection over austere product showcases.
Fratello’s Top 5 Dive Watches Of 2025 — Featuring Omega, Doxa, Seiko, And More
Fratello’s list spans Doxa, Tudor, Omega, Blancpain, and Seiko, with the Doxa Sub 250T GMT praised for design and versatility. Tudor’s Pelagos Ultra pushes depth rating and titanium construction, while Omega’s Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M showcases a refined redesign. Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms Tech BOC IV combines modern tech with classic DNA, and Seiko’s Prospex Marinemaster SLA081 leans on lightweight titanium and an advanced movement. An honorable mention goes to Panerai’s Luminor Marina Militare PAM05218.
Here’s How Much The Royal Family’s Timepieces Are Worth Today
Royal watches carry provenance that can amplify value far beyond retail. King Charles’s Parmigiani Fleurier Toric could exceed $132,000, while Prince Harry’s Rolex Explorer II linked to service may surpass typical market bounds. Princess Diana’s Cartier Tank Française remains a cultural icon with value beyond price alone. Prince William’s Omega Seamaster 300M, a gift from Diana, is a singular heirloom that transcends standard valuations.
Jewels in the Desert: Visiting the Seddiqi Rolex CPO Boutique
Dubai’s momentum as a collector hub continues with the Ahmed Seddiqi Rolex Certified Pre‑Owned boutique. Rolex’s CPO program offers brand oversight and assurance, with about 9,000 watches globally and roughly 500 curated in this boutique. Selection includes distinctive pieces rarely seen in standard collections, attracting regional and international collectors. The focus is trust, authenticity, and an elevated buying experience.
Meet the AI that will design your next Swatch
Swatch’s AI-Dada lets users generate unique New Gent designs from creative prompts in under two minutes. With three requests per day, the experience invites playful experimentation, and each final piece is engraved “1/1.” The initiative merges “artistic intelligence” with Dadaist spirit, challenging conventions with humor and provocation. It extends Swatch’s heritage of art collaborations by deepening personal expression through design.
Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Ranger Dune White Vs. Christopher Ward C65 Dune Aeolian Sand
This comparison pits Tudor’s elevated construction and brand equity against Christopher Ward’s strong value proposition. The C65 delivers 150 m water resistance, a screw-down crown, and refined details at €1,165, undercutting Tudor by €2,425. Aesthetically, Tudor’s simplicity reads more confident, while Christopher Ward’s detail-forward design appeals to those seeking distinction. Both serve the “explorer” brief; preference hinges on taste and budget.
The Back-To-Basics-Watch of Roger Dubuis, the Hommage La Placide
The Hommage La Placide re-centers Roger Dubuis on classic high watchmaking with a 38 mm pink gold case and double-retrograde perpetual calendar. It uses the brand’s first in-house automatic movement and a layered blue dial inspired by Lake Geneva with mother-of-pearl calendar accents. Limited to 28 pieces at EUR 115,000 before taxes, it signals a return to refined elegance. The release honors the maison’s origins while hinting at future heritage-leaning collections.
The gold watches to covet now
Yellow gold is back, shedding past associations in favor of sophisticated, functional luxury. Highlights include Jaeger‑LeCoultre’s Reverso with a milanaise bracelet and matte gold dial, and Rolex’s bold Deepsea in solid yellow gold. Breguet’s Classique Régulateur à Pivot Magnétique showcases technical artistry with guilloché craftsmanship. From Fears to Vacheron and Patek, a new generation of collectors is embracing precious-metal statements.
Timepieces with a mission: Split Watches launches to champion mental health awareness
Founded by industry veteran Ed Margulies, Split Watches aims to spark conversations about mental health through design. Each watch features a distinctive 7.23 hand setting symbolizing a “brave face,” plus customizable straps. For every watch sold, the brand donates an hour of therapy to The Anna Freud Centre. Limited to 250 pieces at £1,800, the collection blends modern style with purpose.
Video Recap: What Made Dubai Watch Week 2025 Probably the Best Watch Fair of the Year
Dubai Watch Week has grown into a pivotal global fair with 90-plus brands and around 49,000 visitors. Beyond product, it celebrates knowledge-sharing and passion, with panels, masterclasses, and direct access to CEOs and craftsmen. The 2025 edition delivered over 20 global launches and an inclusive, learning-centric atmosphere. It stands out by honoring both the artistry and the stories that fuel collecting.
The Latest Time
Brellum
The Brellum Pandial Power Reserve Black Titanium Chronometer LE
Brellum’s limited edition Pandial Power Reserve is crafted in Grade 5 titanium with black DLC, delivering a robust 43 mm chronograph that remains light on the wrist. A multi-level black dial with polished, lume-filled indexes frames four subdials, a power-reserve indicator, discreet date, and a tachymeter bezel. Inside is the COSC-certified BR-750RM (Valjoux 7750 base) running at 28,800 vph with 46 hours of power reserve. Price: CHF 3,235 including VAT, or CHF 2,990 excluding taxes.
Favre Leuba
Favre Leuba Deep Raider Rennaisance Malachite and Meteorite dials
Favre Leuba adds semi-precious stone artistry to its Deep Raider Rennaisance line with striking malachite and Muonionalusta meteorite dials, each piece visually unique. The 40 mm diver offers 300 m water resistance, unidirectional bezel, and the automatic FLD02 caliber with a 68-hour power reserve visible through a display back. Each meteorite dial includes an authenticity certificate attesting to ethical sourcing. Price: Meteorite CHF 3,200 (bracelet) or CHF 3,100 (strap); Malachite CHF 2,800 (bracelet) or CHF 2,700 (strap).
Greubel Forsey
Greubel Forsey’s Balancier 3 Seddiqi 75th Anniversary Limited Edition
Limited to 10 pieces, this celebratory Balancier 3 centers on a large 12.6 mm balance for enhanced chronometric stability, presented in a 41.5 mm convex titanium case. The PVD pink-gold finished movement, skeletonized dial, and hand-finished details include a raised polished “75” and a solid-gold plate marked “1 of 10.” A frosted finish on the curved titanium bridge debuts as a notable craft advancement. Delivered on a hand-sewn rubber strap, with an optional titanium bracelet.
Maurice Lacroix
The New Maurice Lacroix Aikonic Master Triple Retrograde
Maurice Lacroix expands the Aikon family with a 43 mm tonneau-shaped stainless steel model featuring a black ceramic bezel and partially openworked dial. Three retrograde displays (GMT, day, month) are powered by the ML291 movement, paired with 100 m water resistance for daily versatility. The brand’s tool-free strap change system and a durable rubber strap emphasize practicality alongside modern design. Price: CHF 6,450.
Swatch
The Moonswatch Mission To Earthphase Moonshine Gold “Cold Moon” Gets A Frosty Winter Take
A white Bioceramic case, blue accents, and snowflake-engraved moonphase discs give this seasonal MoonSwatch a unique, winter-themed identity. Availability adds intrigue: it can only be purchased in-store when it is snowing in Switzerland, through March 20, 2026. Sized at 42 mm by 13.75 mm with Super‑LumiNova, it’s equal parts playful concept and collectible twist. Price: $450.
Vyntage Horology
Vyntage Horology Debuts the Sleek and Sophisticated Strata
The Strata blends ’70s-inspired lines with a slim titanium case and bracelet, highlighted by a rich burgundy dial and 100 m water resistance. Powered by the Vaucher VHM-3.01 micro-rotor, it offers refined finishing, reliable servicing, and a slender profile despite a conventional 48-hour reserve. A collaboration with Ahmed Seddiqi supports visibility and long-term stability for the new marque. Price: AED 69,000 (approximately US$18,700).
Wearing Time - Reviews
Akhor
AKHOR Le Temps en Équilibre
A dual-disc display creates the illusion of floating hands, blending mystery clock inspiration with a modern, integrated dial-and-mechanism architecture. The proprietary hand-wound AK10 calibre offers a 60-hour power reserve and fine finishing visible through a sapphire case back. A 39 mm cushion-shaped case in steel or gold and varied dial patterns emphasize design artistry as much as timekeeping innovation. The result is a thoughtful, elegant meditation on contemporary horology.
Alcadus
Hands-On: A Week In Rhodes With The Alcadus Voyager Worldtimer GMT
This 40 mm GMT proved an easy, reliable travel companion, pairing a dual‑color city bezel with a clean black dial and 100 m water resistance. The solid bracelet handled beach and pool duty, and the Miyota 9075 offered dependable accuracy with a 42-hour reserve. Minor quibbles about bezel text clarity and crystal distortion do little to diminish overall enjoyment. At $769, it delivers strong value and understated charm for frequent travelers.
Audemars Piguet
The Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Starwheel in Rose Gold
A rose gold take on the wandering hours complication adds warmth and three-dimensionality to the rotating hour discs over black aventurine. The 41 mm case houses a modern in-house calibre with 70 hours of power reserve, blending industrial sharpness with refined finishing. Demand remains high even at $62,600, complementing rather than replacing the white gold version. It’s a contemporary showcase of craft rooted in AP’s heritage of innovation.
Breguet
Breguet Classique 7225
Created for the brand’s 250th anniversary, the 7225 pairs a guilloché dial and elegant case with the manual-wind Cal. 74SC and its “floating” magnetic balance staff. Running at an extraordinary 72,000 vph, it adds a flyback seconds function and thoroughly modern precision to classic Breguet design codes. The price is CHF 75,000, a compelling proposition against similarly ambitious independents. It’s a thoughtful revitalization that honors history while advancing the state of the art.
Brellum
Hands-On: The New Brellum Pandial Power Reserve Black Titanium LE Chronometer
Limited to 23 pieces, this 43 mm Grade 5 titanium chronograph features black DLC, a stealthy multi‑subdial layout, and 100 m water resistance. The chronometer‑certified BR‑750RM (Valjoux 7750 base) delivers a 46-hour reserve with refined decoration. High‑contrast accents and a Nebur Tec strap keep it legible and wearable. Pricing is CHF 3,235 within Switzerland and CHF 2,950 for international shipping.
Glashütte Original
Hands-On With The Glashütte Original PanoMaticCalendar Platinum
A 42 mm platinum case and skeletonized dark blue brass dial frame an elegant panorama date, moonphase, and beautifully balanced displays. The in‑house calibre 92‑11 runs at 28,800 vph with a generous 100‑hour reserve for reliable daily precision. Limited to 150 pieces, each individually numbered, it suits both formal and relaxed settings. Price: €44,000.
Grand Seiko
The Incredibly Wearable Grand Seiko SLGW007
The SLGW007 “Moonlit Birch” refines Evolution 9 ergonomics at 38.6 × 45 × 9.95 mm, with a textured dark blue dial and 20 mm lugs. Inside, the manual-wind 9SA4 introduces a dual‑impulse escapement and an 80‑hour power reserve. It balances sport and dress with exacting finishing and comfortable proportions. At around $10,000, it stands out for movement innovation and daily wear appeal.
Hanhart
The Hanhart Pioneer Preventor HD12 Is A Classic German Tool Watch With A Hardened Steel Case
A 39 mm hardened steel case, 150 m water resistance, and ultra‑legible dial options (including a limited Silk Purple) define this everyday tool watch. Sellita SW200‑1 or Soprod SOP PO24 movements provide dependable automatic performance and 38 hours of power reserve. The bracelet gets minor comfort critiques, but the overall package excels in value and toughness. Price: €1,295.
Kuoe
Hands-On With The Kuoe Royal Smith 90-012 Chronographs
Kuoe’s first automatic chronographs arrive in a 37 mm case with salmon, navy, or silver dials, Breguet‑style numerals or bars, and vintage‑evoking pushers. The TMI NE86A runs at 28,800 vph with a 45‑hour reserve for confident day‑to‑day use. Thickness can feel top‑heavy, but the chronograph action is engaging and smooth. Price: €2,000.
Laurent Ferrier
Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin Beige
Marking the brand’s 15th anniversary, this 40 mm 18k 5N red gold piece pairs a matte beige dial with small seconds and subtle red highlights. The hand‑wound calibre offers an 80‑hour power reserve and showcases meticulous finishing without excessive ornament. Smart‑casual versatility is enhanced by a mocha nubuck strap. Price: CHF 43,000 (excl. taxes).
Rado
Rado Coupole Watch
A compact 37.7 mm dress watch with a clean silvery dial, blue hands, and polished indices introduces an accessible entry to Swiss elegance. The R763 (ETA C07.611) serves up an impressive 80‑hour reserve, though the strap can feel stiff. While it lacks Rado’s signature ceramic character, it’s a capable gateway piece at $1,300 USD. Newcomers will appreciate the comfort, clarity, and long-running movement.
Timex
An Affordable Timex Diver With Rolex Sea-Dweller Energy: Deepwater Meridian 200 Review
With 200 m water resistance, sapphire crystal, and a screw‑down crown, this 44 mm diver punches above its weight. A blue sunburst dial with applied indices and a red diver’s flag projects serious tool‑watch intent. Seiko Epson’s VX42E quartz is straightforward and reliable, with around three years of battery life. Price: $259.
Tudor
The 36mm Tudor Ranger 79930 Is What Fans Wanted All Along
A heritage‑aligned 36 mm case and “Dune White” dial improve proportions, legibility, and vintage character. The COSC‑certified MT5400 brings a 70‑hour reserve and 100 m water resistance in a slimmer profile than before. It’s poised for broad appeal as a practical, well‑built field watch. Price: $3,700 on bracelet or $3,350 on fabric strap.
Wempe
Hands-On With Wempe’s Iron Walker Diver Bronze
The Iron Walker Diver trades steel for a golden bronze case with a black dial, gold‑plated indices and hands, and a rubber‑coated bezel. A Chronometer‑certified Sellita SW200‑1a ensures accuracy, while 300 m water resistance keeps capability intact despite the elegant tilt. The limited edition commands a premium in today’s rising‑price landscape. Price: €4,495 (about US$5,200).
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BuyingTime at Auction
A few select current auctions that caught our eye on Grailzee and Bezel
[Friday’s auction watch, the Urwerk UR-103 36MM Black Dial Leather Strap (UR-103.03)- was bid to $15,600 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]
2023 Patek Philippe Complications Annual Calendar Travel Time 41MM Grey Dial Textile Strap (5326G-001)
Auction Report: Textured Traveler: Patek Philippe 5326G-001 Heads to the Block
The Patek Philippe Complications Annual Calendar Travel Time (5326G-001) going up for auction tonight at 10:04 pm on Monday, December 1, 2025, is one of those rare modern pieces that actually lives up to the launch hype. The seller represents this 2023 example as being in very good condition and notes that it includes the inner and outer boxes, additional items, and full papers—exactly what serious collectors want to see at this price point. In a market where box-and-papers can easily be a five-figure swing, that “full set” status is not just a nicety, it’s capital-V value.
Introduced in 2022, the 5326G-001 was Patek’s way of showing it could still surprise even its most jaded fans: it combines two of the brand’s signature complications—an Annual Calendar and the Travel Time dual-time system—into a single, highly wearable daily piece. The self-winding caliber 31-260 PS QA LU FUS 24H keeps track of local and home time with twin hour hands and day/night indicators, while an intelligent mechanical coupling ensures that the annual calendar always displays the correct date for local time, automatically adjusting when you jump the local hour hand forward or backward. In practice, that means you get proper traveler functionality without sacrificing the clean, at-a-glance calendar that made Patek’s Annual Calendar line famous in the first place.
Visually, this reference has become something of a modern cult favorite. The 41mm white gold Calatrava-style case is ringed by a guilloché hobnail pattern around the caseband—a nod to classic Patek dress pieces—but the watch is anything but stuffy. The charcoal grey dial has a granular, textured surface inspired by vintage camera cases, giving it a slightly “field watch” attitude, especially when paired with the syringe hands and Arabic numerals. The textile-style strap on this example fits that aesthetic perfectly, walking the line between casual and refined; many sets also ship with a second strap option, which only adds to its travel-ready flexibility.
On the numbers side, this is very much a six-figure retail watch. Patek’s current list for the 5326G-001 is in the neighborhood of $100,700 to $100,720 at authorized retailers, depending on market and taxes. Secondary market pricing has been settling into a more rational band as the initial launch frenzy has cooled. WatchCharts pegs the global pre-owned market estimate at roughly $67,000 as of late November 2025, while live dealer listings and marketplaces like Chrono24, Shreve, and others often cluster in the mid- to high-$70,000s for full-set, recent-year examples. Recent auction data shows this reference performing respectably, with 2025 hammers in the high-$50,000s to low-$70,000s depending on condition, year, and sale venue—examples have sold around $59,900 in Switzerland, roughly $69,000 in Germany, and just over $72,000 in Hong Kong this year.
All of that gives us a realistic framework for tonight’s sale. A 2023 watch in very good condition, complete with boxes, papers, and accessories, should sit toward the upper half of that auction range, assuming the listing photos and description back up the “very good” rating. If estimates are sensible and the reserve is not overly ambitious, a hammer somewhere in the mid-$60,000s to low-$70,000s would make sense in the current environment, with any buyer’s premium layered on top. For a collector, that’s effectively a 25–35% discount from nominal retail for a still-current, in-demand Patek with two serious complications and a distinctive design language.
From a collecting standpoint, the 5326G-001 is appealing because it isn’t just another blue-dial perpetual or Nautilus-adjacent hype piece. It marks a specific moment in Patek’s modern design evolution, where the brand leaned into a more “adventure-ready” aesthetic without abandoning its core finishing standards. Reviews at launch consistently highlighted how well the watch wears for 41mm and how coherent the complication layout feels on the wrist, especially given how much information is being displayed—two time zones, annual calendar, moon phase, and day/night indicators all integrated without chaos.
For bidders tonight, this lot represents a chance to skip the boutique waiting game and land a modern Patek that’s actually intended to see mileage—airports, red-eyes, and all. If the final price lands within or slightly below the recent auction band, the winning bidder will have secured one of the more interesting, travel-ready modern Pateks at a reasonable, market-correct level. If the room gets emotional and pushes it closer to dealer asking prices, it will be less of a bargain but still a strong, defensible long-term hold in the modern Patek complication lineup. Either way, the 5326G-001 on offer tonight is a serious piece of kit for someone who wants their calendar watch to do more than sit in the safe.
Current bid: $30,700