Buying Time

BuyingTime Daily - April 8, 2026

Wed, 08 Apr 2026 10:15:48 GMT

Time Graphing today’s watch universe

The watch world continues to lean into personality, provenance, and a healthy dose of reinvention as we roll into April 8, 2026, with today’s headlines showing both heritage brands and independents trying to sharpen their identities ahead of Watches and Wonders. The biggest branding shift comes from Kross Studio, which is now operating under the name of its founder, Marco Tedeschi, a move that feels less like a rebrand and more like a declaration of authorship. The new MT1.1 Tourbillon 7 Jours builds on that idea with a longer power reserve and improved ergonomics, signaling that even the more experimental corners of the industry are tightening up execution as they mature.

Meanwhile, as mentioned here last week, Vacheron Constantin is planting a very large flag in the ground—specifically in Miami—with its largest boutique in the world. The 5,000-square-foot space in the Design District isn’t just about selling watches; it’s about selling an experience, complete with hospitality-driven design and an in-house watchmaker. It’s another data point in the ongoing pivot toward brand-controlled retail, where the environment is just as curated as the product. Over in Geneva, Patek Philippe is going in the opposite direction—back to pure craft—with its Rare Handcrafts 2026 exhibition, a reminder that while the industry chases growth, it still leans heavily on métiers d’art to justify its cultural and pricing position.

On the feature side, the human element of watchmaking is front and center. At Montblanc, Laurent Lecamp is effectively arguing for a long-game strategy built on credibility and storytelling rather than trend-chasing, with Minerva serving as both anchor and proof point. At the more independent end of the spectrum, Bonniksen’s revival through the Naissance d’une Montre 4 project is about as niche—and as serious—as it gets. The resurrection of the carrousel mechanism isn’t just a technical flex; it’s a philosophical one, reinforcing that a growing slice of the market is willing to reward deep historical authenticity over novelty.

As for new watches, today is a mix of the practical, the artistic, and the slightly unhinged—in a good way. Arnold & Son leans into material storytelling with the HM Pietersite, where the dial does all the heavy lifting, while Ressence pushes forward with its first proprietary movement in the Type 11, refining its already unconventional display system. At the accessible end, Casio continues to quietly improve its automatic offering with the Edifice EFK-110D, proving that even entry-level mechanical watches are getting more wearable and more considered. Then you have pieces like Anton Suhanov’s Flamingo, which puts the regulating organ front and center, and La Fervent’s Magic Hour Tourbillon, which looks like it was designed after someone said, “What if we ignored every rule?” and then followed through.

On the review front, there’s a strong showing from the microbrand and enthusiast segment. Arken’s Alterum demonstrates how much innovation is happening below the luxury tier, especially with creative GMT implementations and thoughtful materials, while the oversized Vostok Europe Lunokhod leans into brute-force presence with tritium illumination and 300 meters of water resistance. It’s a reminder that the middle and lower ends of the market remain incredibly competitive, even as prices creep upward across the board.

The comparison and buying guides reinforce that same tension. Vintage continues to be framed less as a category and more as a collection of distinct eras, each with its own design language, while the under-€1,000 dive watch segment is still alive—but increasingly dependent on microbrands to deliver value as larger players inch prices higher. And with Watches and Wonders looming, insider predictions suggest a year where brands will have to balance hype with substance, particularly around core models like GMTs and milestone pieces.

For video content, there’s a nice range today, from a behind-the-scenes look at launching a microbrand to quick-hit rundowns of new releases and a more opinionated take on where brands like Longines and Omega are getting it right—or not. It’s the kind of mix that mirrors the broader market: part education, part entertainment, and part armchair quarterbacking.

At auction, the tone is slightly more cautious. Yesterday’s Romain Gauthier C failed to meet its reserve at $37,000, a subtle but telling signal that even high-end independents aren’t immune to selective bidding right now. That brings us to tonight’s headliner, the 2017 Rolex “John Mayer” Daytona, which is currently sitting at $52,000 with the usual question hanging over it: does it behave like the broader market, or does it continue to operate in its own category? If history is any guide, betting against it has not been a winning strategy.

All told, today feels like a snapshot of an industry in calibration mode—tightening narratives, refining products, and quietly preparing for its biggest annual stage. Whether that results in meaningful innovation or just better storytelling is what we’ll find out next week.

-Michael Wolf

News Time

Kross Studio Rebranded to Marco Tedeschi, unveiling the MT1.1 Tourbillon 7 Jours

Kross Studio has rebranded under founder Marco Tedeschi’s name, aligning the brand more directly with a personal creative identity. Alongside the shift, the MT1.1 Tourbillon 7 Jours debuts at Watches & Wonders 2026 as an evolution of the original MT1, adding a power reserve display and improved ergonomics (including a redesigned clasp). The story traces Tedeschi’s path into watchmaking and the brand’s rise through imaginative, pop-culture-forward collaborations rather than traditional luxury narratives. With Chanel taking a minority stake, the brand is aiming to expand production while keeping its tight team culture and design-led approach.

Vacheron Constantin picks Miami for its biggest boutique in the world

Vacheron Constantin has opened what it says is its largest and most opulent boutique worldwide, in the Miami Design District. The two-floor, 5,000-square-foot flagship is designed to blend watch retail with luxury hospitality, including private consultation areas and an in-store watchmaker’s workshop. The design vision traces back to the brand’s international architecture project manager, Matthieu Rey-Grange, who helped shape the concept before passing away in 2024. The store also signals the brand’s broader shift toward a more boutique-led retail model, while still working with select partners.

The Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2026 Exhibition is back in Geneva

Patek Philippe’s Rare Handcrafts 2026 Exhibition will run from April 18 to May 9, 2026 at the brand’s historic Salons on Rue du Rhône in Geneva. It will present 65 new creations spanning dome table clocks, pocket watches, and wristwatches, crafted with traditional métiers such as Grand Feu cloisonné enamel and hand engraving. Highlighted works include a dome table clock depicting macaws in an Amazonian forest and a pocket watch portraying a flamenco dancer under stage light. Visitors can also watch live demonstrations by artisans, with online registration encouraged and the exhibition closed on Sundays.

Feature Time

Behind the Dial: Laurent Lecamp on building Montblanc’s watchmaking future

Laurent Lecamp, managing director of Montblanc’s Watch Division, describes how an unexpected start in horology led to a deep appreciation for craftsmanship, patience, and the transmission of know-how. They explain a leadership approach rooted in credibility through product and archive knowledge, guided by instinct, emotion, and daily curiosity. Lecamp also outlines how Montblanc balances Minerva’s heritage with contemporary relevance by grounding each release in clear storytelling and a long-term roadmap, rather than chasing trends. The piece emphasizes continuity: using the past to inform the future while constantly refining the brand’s identity and execution.

Bonniksen Reborn with Handmade Le Carrousel

Bonniksen is returning with the Le Carrousel, a handmade wristwatch built around a 30-second carrousel mechanism, developed under the Naissance d’une Montre 4 initiative. The movement—created by co-founder Maximin Chapuis after extensive research—aims to honor Bahne Bonniksen’s original invention while bringing the concept into a modern independent-watchmaking context. Beyond reviving a historic name, the project positions Bonniksen as a serious craft-focused house, with a sub-40mm case and an exposed movement intended to spotlight the mechanism. It also reflects the wider push among artisan makers to preserve heritage techniques while still producing genuinely distinctive contemporary pieces.

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Anton Suhanov

The New Anton Suhanov Flamingo, A “Flaming Balance” Wristwatch

Anton Suhanov’s Flamingo introduces a “flaming balance” concept that places the regulating organ prominently at the center of a structured, modern dial. The 42mm steel case frames a rhodium/dark ruthenium-treated dial with a non-linear power reserve display intended to be especially readable in the final hours of reserve. Inside is the in-house calibre Su26.1L with an 84-hour power reserve and twin barrels, finished to a high independent-watchmaking standard. Production is limited to 38 pieces, reinforcing the watch’s collector-oriented positioning.

Arnold & Son

Arnold & Son HM Pietersite—Where the Dial is the Complication

Arnold & Son’s HM Pietersite is built around a dramatic Namibian pietersite dial, leaning into material artistry rather than added complications. The watch comes in steel or 18K red gold, in a slim 39.5mm case (7.82mm thick), powered by the manual-wind calibre A&S1001 with a 90-hour power reserve visible through a sapphire back. Pricing reflects the limited-edition, stone-dial execution: about $20,767 for steel (CHF 16,200) and $34,739 for red gold (CHF 27,100), converted at ~1 CHF = $1.2819. The result is a dress watch where the dial’s natural “storm” patterning becomes the focal point.

Casio Edifice

Casio’s Affordable Automatic Watch Is Back With a New Movement

Casio’s Edifice EFK-110D updates the brand’s entry-level automatic formula with a slimmer 38mm case, shorter 43mm lug-to-lug, and an 11.80mm thickness aimed at improving everyday wearability. The movement shifts from the Seiko NH35 to the Miyota 8215, helping enable the thinner profile while keeping the watch positioned as a value-forward automatic. It retains practical specs like sapphire crystal and 100m water resistance, and it moves the date window back to a conventional 3 o’clock placement. The stated price is about $322 (≈ €279), converted at ~1 EUR = $1.1542.

CircuitMess

This NASA Artemis Smartwatch Lets You See Its Own Brain and Reprogram It

CircuitMess’s NASA Artemis Watch 2.0 is a DIY-spirited smartwatch built around an ESP32 microcontroller with a deliberately transparent, retro-futuristic look. It includes Bluetooth plus sensors like a gyro/accelerometer, temperature sensor, and compass, but skips more mainstream health features such as heart-rate monitoring. The standout is its open-source firmware, which lets users create custom watch faces and apps and interact directly with sensor data—positioning it as much a learning platform as a wearable. It’s priced at $129 with free worldwide shipping.

La Fervent

Michaël Merle’s madcap Magic Hour Tourbillon returns

La Fervent’s Magic Hour Tourbillon returns with a new deep-brown dial for 2026, keeping its intentionally maximalist, asymmetric titanium case sized to accommodate an unconventional time display. Hours are read by adding two large digit indications (one in an aperture, one on a flipping cube), while minutes run along a left-to-right linear scale—driven by a planetary-gear-based mechanism regulated by a one-minute tourbillon. The automatic movement uses twin barrels for a 60-hour power reserve, with finishing visible through an exhibition back. Last year’s limited edition carried a price of about $185,876 (CHF 145,000), converted at ~1 CHF = $1.2819.

Ressence

Ressence Unveils the Type 11 Powered by its First Proprietary Movement

Ressence’s Type 11 debuts the brand’s first proprietary movement, the Werk RW-01, built to support its ROCS display system that replaces hands with rotating discs. The new caliber provides a 60-hour power reserve and uses a caseback lever for winding and setting, refining the brand’s signature user interaction. The Type 11 comes in three colors (Pine, Sky, Latte) and adds a visual power-reserve indication using ceramic balls, with multiple strap/bracelet options. The listed retail price is about $29,484 (CHF 23,000), converted at ~1 CHF = $1.2819.

Retrovivo

Retrovivo RV02 Grey Review

Retrovivo’s RV02 is a Kickstarter-bound dive watch positioned as an affordable, personality-forward alternative to the typical “spec monster” microbrand diver. It pairs 200m water resistance with a very wearable footprint (39mm diameter, ~45.2mm lug-to-lug, ~11.3mm thick) and a Seiko VH31 mecaquartz movement for low-fuss accuracy and smooth seconds. The watch leans into a modern-vintage mix—cream-toned lume, a narrow-bezel skin-diver feel, and contemporary applied markers—plus practical touches like a beads-of-rice bracelet and tool-less micro-adjust in the clasp. The early-bird launch price is listed as about $229 (or €199).

Wearing Time - Reviews

Arken

Arken Alterum Antracite Review

Arken’s Alterum Antracite Grey is a hardened-titanium tool watch that pairs a standard Miyota 9015 with a bespoke 12-hour GMT module, delivering a genuinely distinctive second-time-zone display plus day/night apertures for both zones. The watch also leans into modern microbrand innovation with lumicast markers (lume cast in ceramic) for strong, resilient legibility, all packaged in a compact 38mm case with 200 meters of water resistance. The review emphasizes how unusually “complete” the offering feels for the money, from the casework and sapphire crystal to the bespoke strap system and lightweight wear. Price is listed at £600 (about $691).

Vostok (Vostok Europe)

Vostok Europe Lunokhod Automatic Review: Big Watch Energy With Tritium

The Vostok Europe Lunokhod Automatic is a bold, space-exploration-inspired diver built around an imposing 49mm stainless-steel case with 300 meters of water resistance, a unidirectional bezel, and a thick K1 mineral crystal. It runs on the Seiko Instruments NH35A automatic movement with a date window, and the dial uses Swiss-made tritium gas tubes for constant low-light visibility. Despite the size, the review notes it can wear surprisingly comfortably on the included silicone and leather straps, though some dial/hands contrast can reduce legibility. The listed price is $899, positioning it as an accessible entry into oversized, feature-forward mechanical dive watches.

Comparing Time

The Good Old Days: A Spotlight on 5 Vintage Watches

This feature pulls five rare vintage watches from private collections into a single photoshoot to highlight how distinct eras expressed design, mechanics, and character differently. Rather than ranking “the best,” it uses the contrast between pieces to show how details like dial architecture, case finishing, and period-correct complications created enduring identities. The result is a visual tour through watchmaking’s past, emphasizing how much variety existed long before today’s crowded modern catalogs. It’s ultimately a reminder that “vintage” isn’t one look—each decade had its own language and priorities.

What Are 10 More Of The Best Dive Watches Under €1,000?

This roundup continues a broader series by selecting ten dive watches that still come in under €1,000, while acknowledging that inflation and brand price hikes have made the category harder to shop. It points to microbrands and independents as a major reason strong options remain, and it highlights variety across movements, water resistance, and design approaches to suit different kinds of wearers. Standout mentions include the Christopher Ward C60 Trident Pro for Swiss-spec value, the Orient Kamasu for robust in-house credibility, and the Zelos Mako for distinctive microbrand execution. The overall takeaway is that the under-€1,000 segment is still diverse—just more competitive and more dependent on newer players than it used to be.

Watches and Wonders 2026

10 Watch-World Insiders Predict What Will Happen at Watches and Wonders

With Watches and Wonders about a week away, this piece gathers predictions from watch-market insiders on what major brands might unveil—or discontinue—once Geneva opens. A key theme is how speculation is becoming more formalized, including new ways collectors can “bet” on outcomes like Rolex GMT changes and potential discontinuations. The forecasts focus heavily on Rolex’s GMT line (including ongoing “Pepsi” discontinuation chatter) and how Patek Philippe may mark the Nautilus’s milestone year, alongside broader expectations of smaller case sizes, stronger dials, and more meaningful complications. Overall, it frames 2026 as a show where brands will need to balance hype, heritage, and real collector demand.

Credor Makes Its First Watches And Wonders Appearance With Three Novelties

Credor makes its Watches and Wonders debut with three pieces meant to broaden its international presence and spotlight high-end Japanese craft beyond the Grand Seiko orbit. Two limited Goldfeather models lead the release: a Tourbillon Engraved Limited Edition priced at $215,000 and a Urushi Lacquer Dial Limited Edition priced at $47,500, both capped at 25 pieces. The lineup is rounded out by the Credor Locomotive with a “dawn blue” dial, a hexagonal-pattern aesthetic, and a high-intensity titanium case priced at $13,200. Together, the trio emphasizes ultra-thin refinement, artisanal finishing, and a deliberate push to define Credor’s identity on the global stage.

Watching Time - Videos

Starting a Watch Microbrand, Behind the Scenes with Tom Clemence Ep. 010 - YouTube - Devin Pennypacker

This episode is a long-form conversation with Tom Clemence, founder of Clemence Watches, focused on what it actually takes to start and run a watch microbrand. The discussion covers how the brand got started, lessons from launching via Kickstarter, and how the lineup evolved from the first releases to newer models like the Munro and the Photic MKII dive watch. It also digs into the “why” behind design decisions—balancing specs, accessibility, and a coherent design philosophy—through the lens of a small brand navigating the industry. Overall, it’s an insider look at microbrand building from the founder’s perspective rather than a pure product review.

Watch Now

The Hottest New Watches Just dropped! - YouTube - ONE Watches

This video is presented as a rapid roundup of newly released watches, aimed at highlighting what’s just landed and why it matters right now. The format is positioned for quick scanning of fresh drops rather than a deep technical teardown, keeping the focus on what’s new and noteworthy. It’s best suited for viewers who want a single video to catch up on the latest releases without going brand-by-brand across multiple sources. Expect a headline-style update on current launches and immediate first takes.

Watch Now

Longines is WINNING, OMEGA is… hard to defend | Watch News - YouTube - Britt Pearce

This watch-news recap runs through major March developments across multiple brands, with particular focus on Longines updates and pointed commentary on Omega’s pricing and positioning. It covers the updated Longines HydroConquest (including design changes, bracelet options like Milanese, and the L888.5 movement) and then shifts to Omega’s Constellation “Observatory Collection,” discussing design choices, proportions, and the pricing ladder. The video also touches on releases from NOMOS and King Seiko, and closes with a spotlight on the Otsuka Lotec No. 8 as an example of independent Japanese design. The throughline is an opinionated market read on value, design direction, and where different brands are pushing (or overreaching).

Watch Now

BuyingTime at Auction

A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com

[Thursday’s auction watch, the Romain Gauthier C by Romain Gauthier 41 Titanium / Black / Arabic / Strap - Limited to 38 Pieces (MON00541) - was bid to $37,000 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]

2017 Rolex Daytona Yellow Gold “John Mayer” (116508-0013)

The Green Monster: Rolex’s “John Mayer” Daytona Still Prints Money

There are Rolex Daytonas, and then there are Daytonas that become cultural events. The 2017 Rolex Daytona 116508-0013—better known as the “John Mayer”—falls squarely into the latter category, a watch that went from overlooked oddball to full-blown market obsession almost overnight.

When Rolex introduced the yellow gold, green dial Daytona at Baselworld in 2016, it didn’t exactly set the world on fire. A green dial on a full yellow gold sports chronograph felt… ambitious. For a brand that trades in incrementalism, it was borderline rebellious. Then John Mayer did what only a true collector-influencer can do—he wore one publicly, praised it, and in the process turned a slow-moving reference into one of the most in-demand modern Daytonas ever made.

From that moment, the market behaved exactly as you’d expect: rationality exited the building. Prices surged, waitlists ballooned, and the watch earned its now-permanent nickname. The “John Mayer” became a case study in how celebrity validation can reprice an entire segment of the luxury watch market essentially overnight.

Under the hood, this is still very much a serious piece of horology. The 40mm 18k yellow gold case houses Rolex’s in-house Caliber 4130, a workhorse automatic chronograph movement known for its robustness and long service intervals. The green dial—Rolex’s signature hue—is not loud in the way you’d expect; it’s deep, metallic, and constantly shifting under light, which is precisely why it works. It shouldn’t, but it does.

What’s remarkable is how the market has treated this watch since its rise. Originally retailing around $38,700, the reference now trades in the secondary market in the $70,000+ range, with examples pushing well into the $80,000–$90,000 band depending on condition and completeness. At its peak in the frenzy of 2022, prices went significantly higher before cooling along with the broader watch market. Even after that correction, it remains one of the strongest modern Daytona performers—proof that this isn’t just hype, it’s embedded demand.

The example here checks many of the right boxes. A full set with box, papers, literature, and hangtags always matters at this level, particularly for a watch that has effectively become a modern collectible. Condition is honest: pre-owned with minor bezel scratches and light wear on the bracelet and clasp. Nothing alarming, and frankly consistent with a watch that was likely worn the way a gold Daytona should be worn—not hidden in a safe.

What you’re buying here is not just a watch, but a moment in modern collecting history. The “John Mayer” sits in that rare category of pieces that altered perception in real time—like the Rolex Paul Newman Daytona did decades earlier—only this time we all watched it happen live on Instagram and Hodinkee.

The auction closes tonight at 7:30 pm EDT (Wednesday, April 8, 2026), and the question isn’t whether it will sell—it’s how aggressive bidders are feeling right now. The market has cooled from its peak, but pieces like this don’t really follow the market. They define it.

Current bid: $52,000

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BuyingTime Daily - April 7, 2026

Tue, 07 Apr 2026 10:15:50 GMT

Go to our Live News Site

Time Graphing today’s watch universe

The watch world continues to feel like it’s in a constant state of reinvention, and today’s mix of news, releases, and reviews makes that point with unusual clarity. Corum is attempting something of a controlled comeback, trimming the fat from a bloated catalog and refocusing on a tighter, more design-driven identity anchored by a revived Admiral line and a new movement developed with Concepto. It’s less “phoenix rising” and more “quiet restructuring,” but in a market that increasingly rewards clarity over chaos, that might be exactly the right move. At the same time, the industry’s long-standing love affair with diamonds is evolving beyond surface-level sparkle. Brands like Chanel, Cartier, and Van Cleef & Arpels are now integrating stones directly into complications and time displays, blurring the line between high jewelry and serious horology in ways that would have seemed gimmicky a decade ago but now feel oddly inevitable.

On the feature side, the idea of augmenting traditional watches rather than replacing them gets a test run with Ganance’s Heir device, a puck-like add-on that tries to retrofit analog watches with smartwatch functionality. It’s clever, slightly clunky, and very much a sign that the industry still hasn’t fully decided whether it wants to compete with or collaborate with wearable tech. Meanwhile, the independent scene continues to do what it does best—ignore convention entirely. A fresh wave of releases from names like Krayon, Ming, and Sartory Billard leans heavily into personality, experimentation, and emotional storytelling, reinforcing the idea that the most interesting ideas in watchmaking rarely come from committee-driven product planning. And in a more reflective mood, TAG Heuer is once again cast as the gateway drug of watch collecting, the brand that turns curiosity into obsession through models like the Carrera and Formula 1.

New watches today lean heavily into spectacle and storytelling. Louis Vuitton pushes deep into métiers d’art theatrics with its Tambour Taiko Arty Automata, pairing a flying tourbillon with animated dial elements that feel closer to kinetic sculpture than traditional watchmaking. ArtyA answers with raw mechanical bravado, debuting a double inclined tourbillon setup inside a sapphire case that seems designed to remove any barrier between wearer and movement. At the more conceptual end, Alto explores patina and sculpture with its Art 01 Bernar Venet, while Hautlence continues refining its signature spherical time display. Trilobe adds a poetic twist with a customizable star map dial, and Desder arrives out of nowhere with a hyper-complex, ultra-limited triple-axis tourbillon piece that feels engineered as much for conversation as for timekeeping.

On the review front, there’s a nice balance between high horology and practical wear. The blue-toned Greubel Forsey Balancier 3 in titanium reinforces the brand’s obsession with precision and finishing, while more accessible options like the Jack Mason Strat-o-Timer GMT and the Ontic Utility 40 Granite focus on usability, durability, and value. Wolbrook rounds things out with a vintage-inspired chronograph that quietly delivers solid mechanics without the usual price escalation. It’s a reminder that while the top end of the market keeps pushing into six-figure territory, there’s still plenty of thoughtful design happening below that stratosphere.

Comparisons today underline two ongoing trends: the dominance of blue dials across every price tier—from Seiko to Breitling—and the enduring appeal of affordable mechanical watches, particularly from Japanese brands like Citizen and Orient, which continue to serve as entry points for new collectors. Meanwhile, all eyes are starting to shift toward Geneva, where Watches & Wonders 2026 is shaping up to be the biggest edition yet. With 64 brands and a growing ecosystem of satellite events like Time to Watches and Chronopolis, the week is less a trade show and more a full-scale cultural takeover of the city.

If you’re looking for something to watch rather than wear, today’s video lineup leans heavily into storytelling and collecting culture, from a deep dive into TAG Heuer chronographs to a fascinating look at John Goldberger’s five decades of collecting, alongside more practical content like watch flipping experiments and value-driven buying guides. On the audio side, the latest Scottish Watches podcast offers a thoughtful conversation with Chronoswiss CEO Oliver Ebstein, reinforcing how smaller brands continue to thrive by leaning into identity rather than scale.

At auction, the market continues to show signs of selectivity. Yesterday’s Vacheron Constantin Overseas Date stalled at $22,000 without meeting reserve, a subtle reminder that buyers are becoming more disciplined. That sets the stage for today’s closer: the ultra-low-production Romain Gauthier C Titanium Edition Four, a stealthy independent piece limited to just 38 examples. With a current bid of $33,500 heading into its 6:50 PM EDT close, it sits in that intriguing zone where craftsmanship, rarity, and relative under-the-radar status converge—exactly the kind of watch seasoned collectors tend to notice just before the broader market does.

All told, today feels like a snapshot of a watch industry stretching in multiple directions at once—toward art, toward technology, toward accessibility, and toward ever more extreme expressions of mechanical creativity. The only constant is that nothing stays still for long.

-Michael Wolf

News Time

Corum Is Back: With A New Admiral, Fresh Designs, And A Plan To Return Brand To Former Glory

Corum is repositioning itself under new ownership with a streamlined strategy built around a refreshed Admiral line and a newly developed caliber created with Concepto. The brand plans to sharply reduce its catalog—cutting from roughly 250 references to 21 models—while targeting production of about 1,500 watches per year. Leadership is framing the turnaround as an evolution rather than a reset, leaning into distinctive, design-forward cues that helped define Corum’s identity in the 1990s. Participation in Watches and Wonders is also part of the effort to signal Corum’s renewed ambition and industry relevance.

How diamonds are reshaping luxury watches, from Chanel to Cartier

Diamonds are increasingly moving from purely decorative roles to becoming functional elements within high-end watchmaking. Early diamond-set watches largely emphasized cases and dials, but advances in gem cutting and engineering now let brands integrate stones directly into time displays and complications. Examples include Van Cleef & Arpels placing a diamond at the center of the time indication, and Chanel embedding a solitaire-cut diamond inside a flying tourbillon cage. This shift reflects a broader push to merge jewelry artistry with serious mechanical innovation in modern luxury watches.

Feature Time

This Cool New Gadget Turns Your Old Watch Into A Smartwatch For Half The Price

Ganance’s “Heir” is a puck-like add-on that attaches to the back of an analog watch to add basic smartwatch-style activity tracking while letting the wearer keep their existing timepiece. It’s extremely light (5g), about 30mm wide, and is designed to run for roughly 42 hours with wireless charging. The system works through a companion app and is positioned as a lower-cost alternative to mainstream smartwatches, though it skips some key sensors like heart-rate monitoring. Early users have reported connectivity hiccups, but the company says updates are planned to improve performance.

Vive le Différence: New Releases from Indie Brands Explore a Range of Creativity

A wave of recent independent releases highlights how smaller brands are prioritizing personality and experimentation over safe, trend-following design. Fleming, Kollokium, Krayon, Ming, Dominique Renaud, and Sartory Billard each bring distinct ideas—from topographical and gradient dial effects to playful collaborations and unconventional ways of presenting time. Several of the watches emphasize emotional connection as much as mechanical interest, pairing strong visual identities with thoughtful movement choices and finishing. Together, the lineup underscores how indie horology continues to expand the creative boundaries of modern watchmaking.

First Love: Spotlight on TAG Heuer

TAG Heuer is framed as a common “first serious watch” brand—often the step that turns a casual buyer into a long-term collector. The story traces how models like the Formula 1 and Carrera built that role by blending recognizable design with relatively attainable pricing, especially through periods like the Quartz Crisis when accessibility mattered. Personal collector anecdotes reinforce how the brand’s watches become emotional entry points, tied to formative moments rather than just specifications. Today, TAG Heuer’s mix of heritage and modern styling continues to attract newcomers who want a credible foothold in mechanical watch culture.

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Alto

Alto Considers Time Through Patination And Sculpture With The Art 01 Bernar Venet

Alto’s Art 01 Bernar Venet is a limited-edition collaboration with French artist Bernar Venet, built around a bronze alloy case designed to evolve its color and patina over time. The sculptural dial uses bending arcs and topographical depth to create shifting light-and-shadow effects, making the watch feel as much like an object as a timekeeper. Mechanically, it’s powered by a micro-rotor movement running at 4Hz with a 48-hour power reserve, and it adds a deliberately provocative touch with a backwards-running seconds hand. Pricing wasn’t disclosed in the story, though it’s expected to come in above Alto’s prior models.

ArtyA’s

ArtyA’s Uber-Complex Complexity Debuts For Watches And Wonders

ArtyA’s Complexity debuts with two inclined tourbillons linked by a differential, presented in a dramatic sapphire case that’s sculpted to frame (not overwhelm) the mechanics. Inside is the manually wound Complexity-01 caliber running at 3Hz, delivering a 50-hour power reserve across 287 components. The watch is limited to nine pieces and offered in transparent sapphire or a Pigeon’s Blood Ruby execution, each paired with different dial treatments and curved rubber straps. Price converts to about $238,000 (starting) up to about $275,000 for the higher-priced version.

Desder

The Desder D001, A New Brand In Collaboration With Mo Coppoletta and Luca Soprana

The Desder D001 launches a new, ultra-limited brand collaboration with designers Mo Coppoletta and Luca Soprana, leaning into a hyper-futuristic, teardrop-inspired case language with a strong Italian design sensibility. The watch pairs a triple-axis tourbillon with a digital display layout that includes jumping hour, sweeping seconds, GMT, and a power reserve indicator, all within a large titanium-and-steel case. Only six pieces are planned, reinforcing its bespoke, collector-focused positioning. Price was listed as “upon request,” so no currency conversion was available.

Hautlence

The new Hautlence Sphere Series 4

Hautlence’s Sphere Series 4 is a 28-piece limited edition that centers on a multi-axis spherical jumping hour display paired with a retrograde minute readout. The Grade 5 titanium case (37mm × 45mm) and skeletonized construction put the mechanical animation front and center, while the olive-and-sand palette pushes a warmer, more organic feel than prior versions. It’s powered by the in-house, manual-wind calibre A82 beating at 21,600 vph with a 72-hour power reserve, and it’s rated to 100m water resistance. Price converts to about $93,000 (excluding taxes).

Louis Vuitton

Louis Vuitton’s Arty Automata is Psychedelic Metiers d’Art

Louis Vuitton’s Tambour Taiko Arty Automata combines a flying tourbillon with animated dial theatrics—like spinning hearts and a swiveling eyeball—executed through extensive métiers d’art handwork. The multi-layer enamel dial reportedly uses 23 enamel shades and requires over 250 hours of craft, while the bezel intensifies the spectacle with baguette-cut sapphires and rubies. The automatic LFT AU05.01 movement delivers a 65-hour power reserve, pairing high-mechanics with high-decoration in a tightly controlled boutique-only release. Price converts to about $564,000.

Trilobe

The new Trilobe Trente-Deux Secret Edition

Trilobe’s Trente-Deux Secret Edition displays time via rotating rings instead of hands, and it adds a personalization layer by offering a star map dial calculated from a chosen date, time, and location. The case comes in steel or 18k rose gold with a design that emphasizes continuity into the strap and a 50m water-resistance rating. Power comes from the Paris-developed, in-house X-Nihilo automatic caliber running at 28,800 vph with a 42-hour power reserve. Price converts to about $25,000 for steel and about $46,000 for rose gold (excluding taxes).

Wearing Time - Reviews

Greubel Forsey

Hands-On: The New, Blue-Toned Greubel Forsey Balancier 3 in Titanium

The Greubel Forsey Balancier 3 in Titanium updates the brand’s signature architecture with a fresh blue color palette and a titanium case that emphasizes sharper structure through sculpted lugs and a variable-geometry bezel. The openworked dial is designed to improve legibility, pairing luminous hands with a prominent balance wheel and a new frosted finish on the central bridge for added contrast. Mechanically it stays true to the original concept, using a hand-wound movement with a variable-inertia balance and a 72-hour power reserve. Limited to 22 pieces, the watch reinforces Greubel Forsey’s focus on precision and high craft while making the aesthetic feel more contemporary.

Jack Mason

Jack Mason Strat-o-Timer GMT Watch Review: A Practical Take on the Modern Diver

The Jack Mason Strat-o-Timer GMT is positioned as a modern, wearable dive-style GMT built around a lightweight Grade 2 titanium case sized to suit most wrists. Its dial layout is designed to keep information clear and usable, balancing tool-watch function with a clean, straightforward look. A true GMT movement allows easy local-hour adjustment, making it especially practical for travel. At $1,399, it targets buyers who want titanium comfort and everyday functionality without moving into luxury pricing.

Ontic

A Week on the Wrist with the Ontic Utility 40 Granite – the best dive watch I’ve ever tested?

The Ontic Utility 40 Granite is a rugged, purpose-built diver with a 39mm Grade 2 titanium case and a 300m water-resistance rating aimed at real-world wear. It uses a Ronda Solartech 215 quartz movement that runs on light, prioritizing reliability and low maintenance over mechanical complexity. The Clous de Paris dial texture and strong two-color lume are highlighted as standout usability features, especially in low light. The watch is framed as exceptional value for its materials and design despite predictable bias some enthusiasts may have against quartz.

Wolbrook

Hands-On: the Wolbrook JetFlyer and the New Jeambrun PS6402 Automatic Chronograph Caliber

The Wolbrook JetFlyer introduces a new automatic chronograph powered by the Jeambrun PS6402, notable for its unusual sub-dial layout and a 41-jewel construction that also supports hand-winding. The watch pairs a vintage-leaning design with modern practicality, including a domed sapphire crystal, 100m water resistance, and a compact, wearable profile. The collaboration with Peacock is positioned as a key reason the watch can deliver solid assembly and regulation while keeping costs down. Overall, it’s presented as a strong-value chronograph with distinctive mechanics and thoughtful tool-watch details.

Comparing Time

The 6 Best New Blue-Dial Watches of 2026 (So Far)

This comparison rounds up six standout blue-dial releases from 2026, showing how the color can work across both tool watches and dressier pieces. It ranges from robust, water-ready options like Seiko’s Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage to more affordable, vintage-leaning chronograph styling from Timex. The list also highlights variety within “blue,” including Citizen’s turquoise-leaning Promaster Dive and higher-end picks like Breitling’s Navitimer B19 with a perpetual calendar. Overall, it frames blue dials as one of the most versatile trends of the year, spanning multiple price tiers and use cases.

The 11 Best Mechanical Japanese Watches to Buy in April 2026 for Under £500 (From Seiko to Indie Brands)

This comparison focuses on Japanese mechanical watches under £500 as an accessible entry point for buyers who want the appeal of traditional movements without luxury pricing. It explains the basics of mechanical watch types (manual-wind vs automatic) and why these designs remain compelling, with their intricate construction and visible craftsmanship. The recommendations span familiar leaders like Seiko, Citizen, and Orient—covering everything from sport models with practical functions to more refined everyday options. It also points to brands like Kentex and Knot for buyers who want a more niche take on value-driven mechanical watchmaking.

Watches and Wonders 2026

Talking Watches & Wonders With CEO Matthieu Humair

In this interview, Watches & Wonders CEO Matthieu Humair emphasizes that the show is built to deliver a memorable experience for everyone—from industry professionals to families and first-time visitors. He notes how quickly the event has expanded, tripling in size over five years, and describes how the program now includes heritage exhibits and a dedicated Lab area showcasing new technology. The conversation also highlights the event’s push to reach the public through initiatives like “In The City,” adding a festival layer and partnerships that broaden its cultural relevance. Humair points to massive digital reach as proof of the show’s influence and frames continuous improvement as central to keeping Watches & Wonders globally significant.

Five Attributes I (Can’t) Expect From Every Watches & Wonders 2026 Timepiece

This piece lays out five qualities the author wants to see at Watches & Wonders 2026, starting with legibility and calling out common issues like reflective hands and hard-to-read dials. It also argues that comfort should be treated as a core feature, especially through better clasp design that feels secure without being fussy. Competitive pricing is framed as a growing concern as brands push higher and risk losing buyers who used to see luxury watches as aspirational but reachable. The author also calls for genuine novelty and for brands to protect the “icon factor” by evolving key models carefully rather than chasing short-term trends.

Watches And Wonders 2026 — What To Expect From The Year’s Biggest Week In Watches

Watches & Wonders 2026 is presented as the biggest edition yet, running April 14–20 in Geneva with 64 exhibiting brands ranging from major houses like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Cartier to a growing set of independents. The event’s footprint is described as extending beyond Palexpo into citywide activations, aiming to make the week feel more accessible and culturally engaging. It also highlights parallel shows like Time to Watches and Chronopolis as key destinations for smaller brands and independent makers. With additional exhibitions spread across multiple venues, the week is positioned as a full-scale watch festival that will set the tone for new releases and broader industry direction.

Event Time

A Guide to Geneva Watch Week (Watches & Wonders, Time to Watches & Chronopolis)

Geneva Watch Week runs April 14–20 and brings brands, collectors, and enthusiasts together for a citywide focus on horology anchored by several major fairs. Watches & Wonders remains the centerpiece at Palexpo and is described as having evolved beyond an industry-only gathering by adding public days and broader programming. The guide also points to Time to Watches for independent brands and highlights Chronopolis as a newer fair with an indie emphasis and free public entry. Beyond the trade shows, it notes a packed schedule of satellite events across hotels, boutiques, and auction houses, encouraging visitors to explore Geneva’s culture alongside the watch activity.

Watching Time - Videos

The Full History of TAG Heuer Chronographs | Monaco, Carrera & What’s Coming Next - YouTube - Time+Tide Watches

This video traces TAG Heuer’s chronograph legacy through cornerstone models like the Monaco and Carrera, explaining how they earned their place in modern watch culture. It walks through the historical context around these releases while highlighting the technical and design choices that shaped the brand’s identity around precision and performance. The story then shifts forward, outlining what the next chapter could look like for TAG Heuer as new releases and technology influence the brand’s direction. Overall, it’s positioned as both a history lesson and a roadmap for what might come next.

Watch Now

The New Players | Collectors Among Us with Dylan & Jordan - YouTube - Analog:Shift

Dylan and Jordan discuss the culture of collecting, focusing on what drives people to build collections and how communities form around shared enthusiasm. The conversation touches on the emotional and social side of the hobby, pairing broader observations with personal anecdotes. It frames collecting as a mix of curiosity, identity, and connection rather than just acquisition. The result is an approachable overview that’s meant to resonate with both long-time collectors and newcomers.

Watch Now

I Bought, Fixed & Flipped Watches ALL In One Day.. - YouTube - Peter Piccolino

Peter Piccolino documents a fast-paced challenge: sourcing watches, repairing them, and flipping them within a single day. The video highlights the hands-on skills and decision-making required to turn worn pieces into sellable watches on a tight timeline. It also underscores the practical hurdles that come up during repairs and how those affect resale potential and profit. Along the way, it functions as both an entertaining project and a learning-oriented look at watch flipping.

Watch Now

50 Years of Collecting with John Goldberger: Rare Patek, Rolex & Cartier Revealed - YouTube - EveryWatch

This video tours John Goldberger’s rare-watch collection built over five decades, spotlighting major names like Patek Philippe, Rolex, and Cartier. It emphasizes not just the watches themselves, but the stories, context, and historical significance that make the pieces meaningful. Goldberger shares perspective on what draws them to certain designs and what makes specific examples truly exceptional. The overall tone is both educational and inspirational for collectors interested in depth, provenance, and long-term passion.

Watch Now

The Best Luxury Watch Around $2,000 Just Changed - YouTube - Harrison Elmore

Harrison Elmore explores the “around $2,000” luxury-watch segment and explains how recent market shifts are changing what qualifies as the best value in that range. The video frames the category as increasingly important for buyers who want real quality without moving into high luxury price tiers. It focuses on how new options and updated offerings reshape the shortlist of standout picks. Taken together, it’s meant to help viewers recalibrate expectations and make smarter choices in a competitive bracket.

Watch Now

Talking Time - Podcasts

Scottish Watches Podcast #767 : Chronoswiss And The Vibrant Art Of Watchmaking - Scottish Watches

This episode features Chronoswiss CEO Oliver Ebstein discussing how the brand, founded in 1983 during the quartz crisis, established itself as a distinctive mechanical watchmaker with a strong artisanal point of view. The conversation focuses on how Chronoswiss blends traditional craft with modern execution, including signature elements like vibrant, color-shifting dials and decorative techniques such as guilloché and fire enameling. It also touches on recent releases like the Pulse GMT models and how Ebstein’s leadership since 2011 has leaned into passion-led decisions rather than convention. Overall, the episode frames Chronoswiss as a modern brand driven by design personality and craftsmanship.

Listen Now >

BuyingTime at Auction

A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com

[Monday’s auction watch, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Date (4500V/110A-B483) - was bid to $22,000 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]

Romain Gauthier C by Romain Gauthier 41 Titanium / Black / Arabic / Strap - Limited to 38 Pieces (MON00541)

The Indie Sleeper Hit — Romain Gauthier’s “C” Titanium Edition Four (Ref. MON00541)

There’s a certain irony in the independent watch world. The pieces that arguably showcase the most authentic craftsmanship often fly just under the radar—quietly brilliant, wildly expensive, and produced in numbers so small they barely exist. That’s exactly where the C by Romain Gauthier Titanium Edition Four lives, and this particular example heading to auction is a perfect illustration of why collectors keep circling back to this brand.

Let’s start with the basics. This is a 41mm Grade 5 titanium watch, finished in black ADLC coating, giving it that stealth, almost tactical aesthetic that feels more contemporary than traditional haute horlogerie. But don’t be fooled—this is still very much a watchmaker’s watch. Underneath the dark exterior is a fully in-house, manually wound movement with approximately 60 hours of power reserve, executed with the kind of hand-finishing that independent collectors obsess over.

The “C” collection itself is relatively young, debuting in 2021 as a more modern, slightly more “accessible” entry into the world of Romain Gauthier—though “accessible” here still means firmly in luxury territory. The model was originally called “Continuum,” a nod to the brand’s philosophy of evolving traditional watchmaking into something contemporary, and the Edition Four represents one of the more refined iterations of that concept.

What makes this specific reference (MON00541) compelling is its scarcity. Limited to just 38 pieces, it sits firmly in that ultra-low production sweet spot that serious collectors look for. It’s not just rare—it’s intentionally rare, part of a series that was designed to evolve over a finite run of editions. That kind of controlled production tends to age well in the secondary market, especially when tied to a respected independent.

Speaking of the market, pricing for these has hovered in the mid-$40,000 to low-$50,000 range depending on condition and specific edition, with retail originally around CHF 38,000 (roughly similar USD at launch). That places this piece in an interesting position: expensive enough to be taken seriously, but still somewhat undervalued relative to the brand’s more complicated pieces like the Logical One. In other words, this is often viewed as an “entry point” into Gauthier—though that entry still requires a fairly deep wallet.

Condition-wise, this example is exactly what you’d expect from a modern pre-owned piece. The dial, hands, and crystal are excellent, which matters because the dial’s layered titanium construction and off-center layout are a big part of the watch’s visual identity. The case and bracelet show minor wear, which on a black ADLC-coated titanium surface is worth noting—those finishes look fantastic when clean but can reveal wear a bit more obviously under certain lighting.

Design is where this watch quietly separates itself. The slightly off-center time display, the small seconds tucked down at 7 o’clock, and the architectural dial layout all feel distinctly “Gauthier.” It doesn’t scream for attention like a Royal Oak or Nautilus. Instead, it rewards a second look—and usually a third.

So where does that leave us? This is not a hype watch. It’s not trying to be. It’s a thoughtfully engineered, beautifully finished, low-production independent piece that appeals to collectors who already have the obvious names covered and are now looking for something more esoteric.

And that’s exactly why it works.

The auction for this Romain Gauthier C Titanium Edition Four (Ref. MON00541) closes tonight at 6:50 PM EDT (Tuesday, April 7, 2026). For the right buyer, this is less about flipping and more about quietly owning one of the more interesting modern independents out there—before everyone else catches up.

Current bid: $33,500

See it Now on Bezel >

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BuyingTime Daily - April 6, 2026

Mon, 06 Apr 2026 10:15:46 GMT

Go to our Live News Site

Time Graphing today’s watch universe

Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe for April 6, 2026 reads like a reminder that the watch world continues to oscillate between introspection, experimentation, and the occasional dose of marketing theater. Tissot leads the narrative today with a polished new campaign for its Gentleman line, enlisting Daniel Ings to embody a sort of quiet, self-aware confidence. The introduction of a 38mm version signals that brands are still fine-tuning proportions to meet modern tastes, while the tone of the campaign—equal parts cinematic and self-deprecating—suggests that even heritage players are trying to loosen the tie a bit.

Meanwhile, the collector psyche gets a reality check through a parade of regrets, including the now almost mythical missed opportunity to buy a Heuer Monaco tied to Steve McQueen. The takeaway is less about money and more about the emotional volatility of collecting—an arena where timing, conviction, and a little bit of luck tend to matter more than spreadsheets.

On the feature side, the market continues to embrace contrast. The tiny, jewelry-like Lip Henriette 18mm leans into charm and accessibility, while Longines goes the opposite direction with a new heritage-driven book that attempts to bottle decades of relevance into a coffee-table narrative. At the extreme end, the industry continues to celebrate its own excess, with pieces from Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet reminding everyone that “complicated” in watchmaking still means impressively impractical in the best possible way. And then there’s Mineroci, an emerging Beijing-based independent, quietly signaling that the next wave of high-end watchmaking may not come from Switzerland at all.

New releases span the full spectrum from pragmatic to borderline absurd. Citizen continues to dominate the value conversation with clean, solar-powered chronographs, while Timex drops a titanium automatic diver under $500 that feels almost aggressively sensible. At the other end, Rexhep Rexhepi and Kerbedanz are playing a completely different game, where six-figure pricing and tourbillons are less about telling time and more about proving a point. In between, brands like Montblanc, Maen, and Louis Moinet are carving out increasingly specific niches, whether through technical storytelling, ultra-thin wearability, or historical callbacks.

On the review front, things get more tactile. The Ace Jewelers x Fears De Stijl piece turns the wrist into a Mondrian canvas, while the Blancpain x Swatch collaboration continues its victory lap as a fun, slightly irreverent take on dive watch heritage. Breitling leans into nostalgia with its Concorde tribute Navitimer, and Norqain proves once again that sports partnerships can work—if you actually design the watch around the sport instead of just slapping a logo on it.

Comparisons and buying guides continue to circle the same core question: what actually matters anymore? Whether it’s Longines vs. Oris, ultra-thin watches under €10K, or alternatives to the Rolex Day-Date, the underlying theme is that buyers are increasingly balancing heritage, value, and individuality rather than blindly chasing status. Microbrands, in particular, keep gaining ground by simply paying attention to how watches wear in real life—a surprisingly rare skill.

The community side of the industry remains alive and well, with events like the Brooklyn gathering featuring Accutron and Esterbrook reinforcing that watches still sit comfortably alongside other analog passions. It’s less about transactions and more about shared rituals—something the industry would do well to remember.

Video content today leans heavily into both enthusiasm and critique. There’s the usual “just buy the watch” encouragement, balanced by thoughtful breakdowns of pieces like the Rexhepi Chronograph and broader commentary on why brands keep missing the mark with younger buyers. The recurring message: the audience is evolving faster than many brands are comfortable admitting.

Podcast conversations echo that sentiment, diving into collector psychology and the launch of new watch fairs aimed at making the hobby feel less intimidating and more inclusive—an acknowledgment that the next generation of collectors may not look or think like the last.

And at auction, reality intrudes. Friday’s A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down stalled at $18,250 without meeting reserve, a small but telling signal that the market is still recalibrating. Meanwhile, today’s featured Vacheron Constantin Overseas Date 4500V sits at a modest $14,250 with the clock ticking toward its close later today, offering a reminder that even great watches still need the right buyer at the right moment.

Taken together, today’s watch universe feels less like a straight line and more like a series of overlapping narratives—heritage versus innovation, value versus excess, emotion versus logic. The watches keep getting better, the stories keep getting louder, and somewhere in between, collectors are still trying to decide what actually matters.

-Michael Wolf

News Time

Swiss watch brand Tissot launches ‘When confidence whispers from the wrist’ campaign featuring Daniel Ings

Tissot has launched a new campaign for the Tissot Gentleman watch, starring actor Daniel Ings, framed as a cinematic and humorous take on modern confidence. The story follows Ings through a day on set, with the watch positioned as a steadying presence that offers timely reminders and encouragement. It also spotlights the expanded Tissot Gentleman lineup, including a new 38mm model that builds on the success of the 40mm version. The campaign leans into the idea of composure, authenticity, and finding humor in the unpredictable.

22 Watch Collectors on Their Biggest Regrets – From Missing Steve McQueen’s £1.6M Monaco to Selling a Rolex ‘Ghost’

This piece gathers stories from 22 watch collectors (plus auction and history voices) reflecting on the watches they passed on, sold too quickly, or simply let slip away. One standout regret is Jeff Stein’s decision to pass on Steve McQueen’s Heuer Monaco, now valued around £1.6 million. Across the accounts, the common thread is how emotionally charged collecting can be, especially when an object is tied to identity, memory, or a “once-in-a-lifetime” opportunity. The takeaway is that the thrill of collecting often lives in the hunt and the community as much as in market value.

Feature Time

Lip Henriette 18 mm: The French miniature watch that intrigues the market

The Lip Henriette 18 mm is a tiny, jewelry-like watch that leans into French-made charm with an 18.5mm polished yellow-gold-tone steel case and an ultra-light 25g feel. Its glossy black dial keeps things clean and legible with gold accents, triangular markers, and Arabic numerals, paired with a flexible Milanese mesh bracelet for comfort and easy adjustment. Inside is a dependable Ronda 1032 quartz movement with solid monthly accuracy, making it a practical everyday option despite the delicate proportions. It’s positioned as an accessible style piece at €199, though it’s notably not water-resistant.

People Friendly: A New Longines Watch Book Sums Up the Maker’s Impressive Heritage with Personality

Longines is releasing a new illustrated book, Longines: Watches That Made History, built around the brand’s long heritage and the cultural moments tied to its watches. It highlights how Longines timepieces have been worn by a range of notable figures, connecting watch history to broader stories of achievement and public life. The book is positioned as both a visual showcase and a narrative of bold brand decisions over time, rather than just a catalog of products. It’s set to launch May 12, with pre-orders listed at $110.

The ABCs of Time: The Five Most Complicated Wristwatches Ever Made

This feature walks through how watch complications evolved from early chiming mechanisms into today’s extreme feats of engineering and craft. It frames “grand complications” around pillars like chronographs, minute repeaters, and perpetual calendars, then spotlights modern headline examples that push those ideas to the limit. Pieces like Vacheron Constantin’s ultra-complicated builds, Patek Philippe’s sound-focused Grandmaster Chime, and Audemars Piguet’s user-friendly but deeply complex RD#4 illustrate just how far mechanical watchmaking can go. The result is a survey of watches that function as both instruments and demonstrations of what’s possible in horology.

One To Watch: Mineroci Blends Chinese Cultural Influence With A Remontoir D’égalité For A Complicated Second Watch

Mineroci, a Beijing-based independent maker, is drawing attention for combining Chinese cultural influences with traditional Swiss watchmaking approaches in its RD002. Founded by designers Chang Qu and Zhengyang Pan, the brand aims to move beyond common three-hand norms in the local market by building more technically ambitious pieces with distinctive character. The RD002 prototype features a prominent central balance, marine-chronometer-inspired styling, and detailed finishing like guilloché, even as the movement continues to be refined. With a CHF 78,000 price and just 21 pieces planned, it’s positioned squarely for high-end collectors and as a statement about where Chinese independent watchmaking could head next.

The Latest Time

Citizen

Citizen Releases Three New Solar Chronographs With Clean Dials

Citizen Japan unveiled three new Eco-Drive chronographs under the Citizen Collection, notably without prominent “Eco-Drive” dial branding for a cleaner look. The three variants pair simple, sporty aesthetics with a 39.6mm steel case, sapphire crystal, tachymeter bezel, and 10 ATM water resistance, using dark sub-dial areas to optimize light capture. Pricing is ¥49,500 (about $307), with a Japan release date of April 9, and broader availability still unclear.

D1 Milano

D1 Milano Subacqueo Polycarbon Diver Watches Hands-On: Fun & Affordable For $195

D1 Milano’s Polycarbon Diver marks the brand’s first dive-style watch, built to be playful and inexpensive rather than a hardcore tool watch. At $195, it offers a lightweight polycarbonate case, a rotating bezel for practical timing use, and bright, fashion-forward color options while still delivering 100 meters of water resistance. The emphasis is on comfortable daily wear and bold styling that gives casual buyers and collectors a low-risk way to add something different.

Earthen Co.

The Accessible Earthen Summit Nightfall & Moonglow, A Celestial Evolution in Ceramic

Earthen Co. expanded its accessible ceramic line with the 38mm Summit Nightfall (black) and Moonglow (white), both featuring shimmering aventurine dials meant to evoke a starry-sky effect. The minimalist layout prioritizes legibility, while the Miyota 9039 automatic movement provides a 42-hour power reserve. Priced at $1,099, each watch includes two interchangeable FKM rubber straps and 100 meters of water resistance for everyday practicality.

Kerbedanz

New: Kerbedanz Maxima GR8 39mm :

Kerbedanz launched the Maxima GR8 39mm as an ultra-limited, high-concept ceramic watch offered in black or white, with just 28 pieces per color. The centerpiece is a centrally mounted flying tourbillon paired with an openworked dial and an automatic KRB-13 movement delivering a 65-hour power reserve. The listed price is CHF 130,000 (about $166,647), positioning it firmly in rarefied collector territory.

Louis Moinet

A Champagne Dial for the Louis Moinet 1816 Chronograph

Louis Moinet refreshed the 1816 Chronograph with a champagne dial to mark its 210th anniversary, tying the design back to the original chronograph’s astronomical roots. The 40.6mm titanium case houses a manual-wind integrated chronograph movement (developed with Concepto) and presents its registers in an inverted-pyramid layout. The retail price is CHF 28,900 (about $37,037), paired with an integrated titanium bracelet featuring champagne DLC-coated links.

Maen

Maen x Nico Leonard Grand Tonneau Ultra-Thin

Maen teamed with Nico Leonard for a slim, barrel-shaped Grand Tonneau Ultra-Thin that emphasizes wearability and modern dial texture over complications. The case measures 34mm wide and just 6.4mm thick, using a hand-wound La Joux-Perret D101 movement with a 50-hour power reserve and a clean two-hand display. It’s available for a limited order window and priced at EUR 1,519 (about $1,751), with strap and bracelet options designed for easy swapping.

Montblanc

Montblanc Expands 0 Oxygen with New Iced Sea, 1858 and Star Legacy Watches

Montblanc rolled out a broader 2026 lineup built around its “0 Oxygen” concept, designed to reduce condensation and improve long-term clarity and performance in changing conditions. The releases span sportier Iced Sea models (including glacier-texture dials and limited editions) as well as 1858 exploration-themed pieces and refreshed Star Legacy offerings that nod to the brand’s Minerva heritage. The collection is positioned as a mix of technical innovation and storytelling across multiple product families.

OraOrea

The OraOrea Corliolis Pointer Date From Worn & Wound’s Zach Starr Weiss

OraOrea introduced the Coriolis Pointer Date as a limited edition across three dial colors, built around a distinctive handset and a pointer-date complication that’s relatively rare in this segment. The 38.5mm brushed steel case is sized for broad wearability, while the Sellita SW386-1 provides a higher-grade mechanical foundation with a focus on finishing and reliability. The price is $3,950, with shipping expected in Q4 2026 and 100 pieces allocated to each colorway.

Rexhep Rexhepi

Rexhep Rexhepi Presents the RRCHF Chronograph Flyback

Rexhep Rexhepi’s RRCHF Chronograph Flyback is a tightly limited 50-piece release that puts the chronograph front and center, even shifting the main time display to a smaller subdial. Two variants are offered—platinum with a green/blue enamel dial and rose gold with black enamel—paired with a hand-wound movement using a classic column wheel and horizontal clutch, plus a 72-hour power reserve. The stated price is CHF 150,000 (about $192,285), reflecting its haute-horlogerie finishing and extreme scarcity.

Timex

Timex Drops an Affordable Titanium Dive Watch Under $500

Timex introduced the Expedition Pioneer Titanium Automatic as a value-forward mechanical diver, combining a sandblasted titanium case with a proven Seiko NH35 automatic movement for easy servicing. The 41mm design sticks to familiar dive-watch cues (including a unidirectional bezel) but adds distinctive lime accents and strong lume for usability. Pricing is $449 on rubber or $549 on a titanium bracelet, aiming squarely at enthusiasts shopping the sub-$600 titanium diver space.

Victorinox Swiss Army

A Beloved Swiss Brand Just Launched Its Most Convenient, User-Friendly Watch to Date

Victorinox launched the Concept One as its first solar-powered watch, using a Swiss-made Ronda 215 movement and claiming an eight-month power reserve—even without light. The watch keeps a minimalist, practical design with a date window, anti-magnetic housing, 39mm steel case, and 100 meters of water resistance, with an automatic alternative also offered in the range. Pricing is listed from $900 to $1,650 depending on configuration.

Winnerl

Indie Brand Winnerl Presents its Second Act, the Heart Return

Winnerl’s Heart Return continues the revival of a historic Austrian watchmaking name with a highly artisanal, marine-chronometer-inspired aesthetic and a strictly limited run of 12 pieces. The watch pairs a refined 39.9mm steel case with a distinctive crystallized titanium dial, plus a jumping-style power reserve indicator and a hand-wound CW03 movement engineered for stability and precision. Pricing is described as “six-figure,” underscoring its positioning as a rare collector-focused independent release.

Wearing Time - Reviews

Ace Jewelers X Fears

Hands-On: The Ace Jewelers X Fears Brunswick 38 ‘De Stijl Edition’ Watch Brings Dutch Art To The Wrist

The Ace Jewelers x Fears Brunswick 38 ‘De Stijl Edition’ is a limited-edition watch inspired by the De Stijl art movement, with a dial that echoes Mondrian-style geometry using layered blocks of black, grey, red, blue, and yellow. It intentionally avoids conventional hour markers and a minute track, pushing the design toward wearable art while still providing subtle visual cues for reading the time. The watch is built around a cushion-shaped stainless-steel case with a domed sapphire crystal and a Swiss-made La Joux-Perret D100 manual-wind movement. It’s designed to feel like a functional collector piece that prioritizes artistic expression as much as traditional watch legibility.

Blancpain

Into The Pacific With The Blancpain × Swatch Scuba Fifty Fathoms Ocean Of Storms

The Blancpain × Swatch Scuba Fifty Fathoms Ocean of Storms is positioned as a playful, more accessible take on an iconic dive-watch silhouette, pairing a Bioceramic case with Swatch’s Sistem51 automatic movement. It keeps the look straightforward with a legible black dial and a sturdy NATO strap, though the strap is noted as feeling a bit stiff. With 91 meters of water resistance, it’s capable enough for casual water use but isn’t intended to compete with professional-grade dive tools. The overall appeal is a fun, lightweight wearing experience that nods to Blancpain heritage without taking itself too seriously.

Breitling

New Breitling Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Tribute to Concorde

Breitling’s Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Tribute to Concorde marks the aircraft’s 50th anniversary with aviation-centric details, led by a deep blue dial meant to evoke the stratosphere and contrasting white subdials referencing Concorde’s “White Bird” nickname. The 43mm stainless-steel case houses the Manufacture Calibre B01 with a 70-hour power reserve, maintaining the Navitimer’s tool-watch credibility while leaning into commemorative design. The caseback engraving reinforces the tribute with specific Concorde references, including “One of 593,” tying the watch to the plane’s Olympus 593 engines. It’s presented as a well-balanced special edition that honors the subject without overloading the dial with novelty.

Norqain

Norqain Adventure Chrono NHL Limited Edition Watch Review: A Hockey-Inspired Watch Kicks Off The Brand’s New Partnership

The Norqain Adventure Chrono NHL Limited Edition is built around sport-specific storytelling, with design elements that explicitly reference hockey culture and the brand’s NHL partnership. Details like a dial texture inspired by a worn rink, a strap material reminiscent of a hockey puck, and a running seconds register shaped like crossed sticks push the theme beyond simple logo placement. It’s a 41mm stainless-steel chronograph designed to be durable and practical, backed by a movement with a 62-hour power reserve and solid water resistance. The watch aims to appeal to both hockey fans and enthusiasts who appreciate a focused concept executed through real design choices.

Comparing Time

Sunday Morning Showdown: The New Longines Hydroconquest Vs. The Oris Aquis Date

This comparison puts two sub-€2,500 dive watches head-to-head: the Longines Hydroconquest and the Oris Aquis Date. The Hydroconquest is presented as the more traditional, familiar option, with updates that make it feel like a stronger overall spec package, including a longer power reserve. The Aquis Date counters with a more original design identity, highlighted by its distinctive case shape and broader variety. The piece ultimately frames the decision as a matter of priorities—heritage-and-specs versus design character—and invites readers to pick a side.

Slimming Things Down Part II - Ultra-Thin Watchmaking, On A (Relative) Budget

This guide rounds up ultra-thin watches that stay under €10,000 while still delivering strong design and credible mechanics. It highlights options ranging from clean, classic pieces like the Nomos Tangente Neomatik Doré to sportier, value-driven slim watches like the Maen Manhattan 37mm Ultra-Thin and more playful designs like the Paulin Modul D Manual. The selection also includes unusual construction and limited-run appeal, such as the De Rijke & Co. Capri, plus a more luxe flourish with the Furlan Marri Disco Diamonds Onyx. Overall, it’s framed as a practical shortlist for anyone who wants thin watchmaking without entering true high-horology pricing.

Best Microbrand Watches With the “It” Factor Based on Hands-on Reviews

This piece curates microbrand watches that stand out not just on specs, but on how they actually wear and fit into daily life. It highlights design decisions that improve comfort and usability—like low-profile cases, smart crown placement, and thoughtful dial layouts—alongside strong visual identities. The list spans multiple styles and functions, from travel-ready GMTs to dressier options, while calling out distinctive finishing and character as the common thread. The overall takeaway is that the best microbrands succeed by balancing intention, ergonomics, and originality in ways larger brands often overlook.

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Day-Date Alternatives In 2026

Fratello’s roundup offers five alternatives to the Rolex Day-Date that keep the day-date practicality while branching into different styles and price points. The list includes options that mirror the Day-Date’s everyday versatility (like the Tudor Royal) as well as higher-end or more distinctive picks such as the A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus and the Patek Philippe Cubitus Grand Date. It also includes more accessible choices like the TAG Heuer Carrera Day-Date and the Seiko 5 Sports SNXS series for buyers chasing the vibe without the flagship price. The article frames the selection as a way to expand beyond the Day-Date’s shadow while still getting a watch that feels substantial and functional.

10 Best Dive Watches for Large Wrists: Top Picks From Years of Reviews

This guide focuses on dive watches that work especially well on larger wrists, emphasizing comfort and real-world wear rather than size alone. It spans a wide price range, from budget-friendly staples to premium heavy-hitters, and evaluates each pick on factors like legibility, water resistance, strap flexibility, and overall ergonomics over long periods. The underlying theme is that bigger cases still need balance—good proportions, manageable thickness, and practical design—to feel right day to day. It’s meant as a shortcut for readers who want a capable diver that doesn’t look or feel undersized.

Event Time

Recap: An Analog Evening with Accutron, Esterbrook, and The Brooklyn Scribe at the Windup Watch Shop Showroom

On April 3, 2026, Windup Watch Shop’s Brooklyn Showroom hosted an event celebrating the shared craft culture of watches and writing instruments, featuring Accutron and Esterbrook. Guests explored Accutron’s Spaceview 314 collection while Esterbrook presented a fountain pen inspired by Accutron design cues, reinforcing the crossover between horology and analog tools. The evening also included live calligraphy by The Brooklyn Scribe, a wristwatch photo station for capturing detailed shots, and a lively social atmosphere with drinks including a signature cocktail. Giveaways and hands-on experiences rounded out the night as a community-forward celebration of craftsmanship and personal expression.

Watching Time - Videos

Awesome New Watches You Should STOP Thinking About and Buy! 10 New Watches You NEED to Check out! - YouTube - WatchChris

This video presents a curated list of ten new watch models that the host argues are worth buying without endlessly second-guessing the decision. It’s designed as a fast-moving overview of current watch trends, spotlighting pieces that cover a range of styles and tastes. The core message is momentum: if a watch fits what you like and need, don’t let analysis paralysis stop you from enjoying the hobby. It’s framed as a practical shortcut for enthusiasts who want a concentrated “what to consider right now” watchlist.

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The Rexhep Rexhepi Chronograph Flyback (RRCHF) As Explained By Rexhep Rexhepi - YouTube - Hodinkee

Rexhep Rexhepi personally walks through the design intent and technical thinking behind the RRCHF Chronograph Flyback. The explanation focuses on how the flyback function works and why it matters, while also highlighting the movement architecture and finishing that define the watch’s high-end craftsmanship. The video emphasizes the maker’s perspective—what problems were being solved and what details were prioritized in execution. It’s positioned as an insider-level guide for collectors who want to understand the RRCHF beyond surface aesthetics.

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The New Value King Is Here: One Week With My New Longines Hydroconquest 39 - YouTube - The Watch Idiot

This one-week wear review argues that the Longines Hydroconquest 39 delivers standout value in today’s market. The host covers how the watch performs in daily use, including comfort, practicality, and how its design fits across casual and more dressed-up settings. The video leans on lived experience rather than specs alone, emphasizing whether the watch feels dependable and satisfying over time. It ultimately positions the Hydroconquest 39 as a strong “default choice” for buyers who want quality without overpaying.

Watch Now

Tim Buys a New Watch - Walking Through the Process - YouTube

This video documents the full buying journey—from researching brands and styles to visiting shops, trying watches on, and narrowing to a final choice. The value is in seeing the decision-making process play out in real time, including how tradeoffs around features, aesthetics, and price get resolved. It also works as a practical guide for what to pay attention to when shopping, especially for viewers who haven’t bought many watches before. The result is a mix of entertainment and a step-by-step look at how a purchase decision actually happens.

Watch Now

Watch Brands Are Missing What Buyers Actually Want - YouTube - Harrison Elmore

This video explores why many watch brands struggle to match changing buyer preferences, especially among younger audiences. It argues that authenticity, sustainability, and personalization increasingly matter more than traditional signals of luxury, and that brands can’t rely on heritage alone to stay relevant. The discussion also points to social media’s influence on how tastes form and spread, accelerating shifts in consumer behavior. The takeaway is that brands need to adapt their product and messaging to stay aligned with what modern buyers actually value.

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The Rise of F.P.Journe – Behind the Watchmaker’s Unprecedented Success - YouTube - Collective Horology

This video traces how F.P. Journe became one of the most respected names in modern high-end watchmaking. It focuses on the combination of traditional craft, technical innovation, and an obsessive approach to execution that helped the brand stand out in a crowded luxury market. By looking at the philosophy and process behind the watches, it explains why collectors respond so strongly to Journe’s work. The narrative frames the success as the product of consistent vision and meticulous attention to detail over time.

Watch Now

Watch brands keeping making mistakes... - YouTube - This Watch, That Watch

This video discusses recurring mistakes watch brands make that can frustrate buyers and weaken trust. It points to how misreading consumer expectations and ignoring market signals can lead to products that miss the mark, even when the brand has strong heritage. The commentary is framed to help viewers become more discerning shoppers by recognizing patterns that often precede disappointment. It also acts as a call for brands to be more responsive to what enthusiasts and everyday buyers actually want.

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Why is “Entry-Level” Longines Killing Their Competition? (Hydroconquest 39, Spirit Pilot) - YouTube - IDGuy

This video argues that Longines is outperforming competitors in the entry-level luxury space by delivering strong quality, design, and pricing in models like the Hydroconquest 39 and Spirit Pilot. It frames Longines as a brand that balances heritage with modern practicality, making it approachable for newer buyers while still appealing to enthusiasts. The analysis highlights how feature sets and positioning align with what the market is demanding right now. Overall, it presents Longines as a case study in how to win the “value meets credibility” segment.

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Rolex Leaks are Here: What’s FAKE vs TRUE? - YouTube - Britt Pearce

This video breaks down circulating Rolex rumors and “leaks,” focusing on how to separate credible information from speculation. It encourages viewers to evaluate sources and details carefully rather than taking viral claims at face value. The discussion centers on why misinformation spreads so easily in the Rolex ecosystem, where hype and scarcity amplify every rumor. The goal is to help enthusiasts and potential buyers stay grounded and avoid making decisions based on shaky claims.

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Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar: The Art of Reinterpretation - YouTube - Revolution Watch

This video presents the Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar as an example of how a brand can reinterpret traditional watchmaking ideas through modern design and engineering. It highlights the watch’s calendar mechanics and the way the design aims to stand apart in the luxury segment while still feeling rooted in craft. The piece is positioned as both an educational breakdown and a visual showcase, helping viewers understand what makes the model notable. The emphasis is on how technical innovation and aesthetic storytelling combine to define the Gerald Charles approach.

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Talking Time - Podcasts

SJX Podcast: Understanding Collector Psychology | SJX Watches

In this episode of the SJX Podcast, Brandon talks with King Flum, a collector and writer behind the ScrewDownCrown Substack, about why watch debates online can get so intense. They explore how people often form strong preferences first and then build increasingly sophisticated justifications afterward, which can make disagreements feel more entrenched. The conversation also explains why criticism of someone’s watch can feel personal, drawing on research from psychologists like Jonathan Haidt and Dan Kahan. The result is a thoughtful look at how emotion and identity shape collector behavior.

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The Business of Watches Podcast: Maxime Couturier And Lorenzo Maillard Of The New Chronopolis Watch Fair

This episode centers on Maxime Couturier and Lorenzo Maillard as they launch Chronopolis, a new watch fair in downtown Geneva during Geneva Watch Week. They discuss why there’s room for another venue alongside the established shows, and how they want Chronopolis to feel more energetic, social, and accessible. A key goal is drawing younger audiences into horology by emphasizing atmosphere, discovery, and community as much as the brands themselves. The conversation frames Chronopolis as a response to how the watch world is evolving—and how events can evolve with it.

Listen Now >

BuyingTime at Auction

A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com

[Friday’s auction watch, the 2021 A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down White Gold (234.026) - was bid to $18,250 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Date (4500V/110A-B483)

Black-Tie Traveler: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Date 4500V in Black

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Date ref. 4500V/110A-B483 is one of those watches that makes the whole luxury sports category feel respectable again. In a field crowded with hype, wait lists, and endless social-media chest beating, this black-dial Overseas comes across as something rarer: a genuinely refined steel sports watch from one of the true old-guard houses of Swiss watchmaking. It has the pedigree, the finishing, and the everyday usefulness to justify the badge on the dial, which is more than can be said for a lot of rivals trading mostly on momentum and scarcity theater.

This reference belongs to the third-generation Overseas family, the line Vacheron Constantin reworked in 2016 to sharpen its position in the modern luxury sports arena. The black-dial variant followed in 2018, giving buyers a slightly stealthier, more understated alternative to the headline-grabbing blue version. That matters, because the 4500V in black has always felt like the insider’s choice. It keeps all the strengths of the Overseas formula without shouting quite so loudly across the room. At 41mm in stainless steel, it lands in the sweet spot for a contemporary sport-luxury watch: large enough to feel current, slim and elegant enough to slide under a cuff, and robust enough to function as a real daily wearer rather than a safe queen pretending to be adventurous.

The design still carries the spirit of the 1977 Vacheron 222, the historic model that helped define the maison’s place in the integrated-bracelet sports watch conversation. The notched bezel, inspired by the brand’s Maltese cross emblem, gives the watch a distinct architectural identity without descending into gimmickry. On the black dial, that geometry plays especially well. The lacquered surface gives the piece more depth than a plain matte dial would, and the applied markers and hands keep everything crisp and legible. There is also something refreshing about a watch this expensive still being willing to show you the date without apology. Not every luxury sports watch needs to act like practicality is beneath it.

Inside is Vacheron Constantin’s in-house automatic caliber 5100, a movement that delivers a healthy 60-hour power reserve and carries the Geneva Seal, which remains one of the most prestigious quality hallmarks in Swiss watchmaking. That matters because the Overseas is not just selling you brand mythology and bracelet vibes. The movement finishing is serious, the engineering is modern, and the watch has the kind of specifications expected at this level, including anti-magnetic protection and 150 meters of water resistance. Turn it over and the sapphire caseback reveals a gold oscillating weight decorated with a wind rose motif, a nice reminder that Vacheron wants this model to feel like a companion for travel, not just another polished steel trophy for people who never leave the valet stand.

One of the best parts of owning a modern Overseas is the strap system. This example includes the extras, which is important. Vacheron’s quick-change setup remains one of the smartest in the category, allowing the watch to move easily from bracelet to rubber strap to leather without turning the owner into a part-time watchmaker armed with tiny screwdrivers and rising blood pressure. That versatility adds real value, and when a set includes box, papers, product literature, hangtags, and extra straps, it becomes a far more complete offering in the secondary market. Buyers in this segment absolutely care about completeness, and rightly so.

As for condition, this watch presents as an honest, worn example. It is pre-owned, with light wear on the case and bezel, but more notably there are visible scratches on the bracelet and clasp that should be factored into bidding expectations. The dial, hands, and crystal are said to be in excellent condition, which is critical, as those are the elements that define how the watch reads on the wrist. The wear on the bracelet is cosmetic and typical for a watch that has seen regular use, but it does distinguish this piece from cleaner, more lightly worn examples that may command a premium.

There is also a detail that collectors will want to pay attention to: the warranty card is undated. That means the exact point of original sale is unknown, leaving some ambiguity around the watch’s service timeline and remaining factory warranty status, if any. In a market where full documentation can materially impact value, an undated card introduces a small but real layer of uncertainty that should be reflected in how aggressively one bids.

In terms of value, the black-dial 4500V generally trades below the blue-dial version, which has long carried the louder market premium, but that is precisely what makes this reference compelling. It often sits in a more rational zone for collectors who want all of the model’s substance without paying extra for the internet’s favorite dial color. Recent market levels for black-dial examples tend to place them in the low-to-mid $20,000s depending on condition, accessories, and timing, with stronger full-set pieces often pushing higher. Given the visible bracelet wear and the undated warranty card here, a disciplined buyer would likely position this example toward the middle or slightly below the upper end of that range.

What makes the 4500V/110A-B483 especially attractive is that it delivers quiet authority. This is not a watch bought by accident, and it is usually not bought by someone who simply walked into a hype storm and asked for whatever social media told him to want. It is the choice of a buyer who knows the difference between status and substance. The finishing is excellent, the movement is legitimate, the wearability is first-rate, and the black dial gives it a discreet elegance that may age better than some of the more obviously fashionable alternatives.

With the auction ending at 8:00 p.m. EDT on Monday, April 6, 2026, this piece has a lot going for it, but it is not without its caveats. The full package helps, the reference itself remains one of the most complete all-around luxury sports watches on the market, but the visible bracelet wear and the undated warranty card are factors that should keep bidding grounded in reality. The black-dial Overseas may never be the loudest flex in the room, but that is part of its charm. It does not need to beg for approval. It already knows what it is.

Current bid: $14,250

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BuyingTime Daily - April 3, 2026

Fri, 03 Apr 2026 10:16:09 GMT

Go to our Live News Site

Time Graphing today’s watch universe

April 3, 2026 finds the watch world comfortably straddling its two favorite extremes: space-age functionality and old-world craftsmanship. Case in point, Omega quietly reinforces its dominance beyond Earth as the Speedmaster X-33 Generation 2 heads back into orbit with the Artemis II crew, marking the first human lunar mission since 1972. While the broader market debates hype cycles and resale values, this is a reminder that some watches still have actual jobs to do—and in this case, that job just happens to be in space.

Back on Earth, the retail landscape continues to shift under everyone’s feet. Hamilton & Inches is adjusting to life after Patek Philippe, proving that even centuries-old institutions aren’t immune to distribution reshuffles. Leaning harder into Rolex and service capabilities, the retailer is finding its footing again, which feels increasingly like the blueprint for survival in today’s tightening dealer ecosystem. Meanwhile, Tudor is taking a more theatrical route, strapping its watches onto The Flying Bulls aerobatics team in a high-octane branding play that fits neatly into its “Born to Dare” positioning—less subtle than a price increase, but arguably more fun.

The feature stories lean heavily into narrative depth today. Hamilton’s American roots get a nostalgic spotlight in Lancaster, Pennsylvania, where watchmaking history still lingers in buildings and museums, while Favre Leuba continues its comeback tour with the Chief collection, stretching from accessible chronographs to a serious tourbillon play. Vacheron Constantin goes big—very big—in Miami with a flagship that signals just how important that market has become for high-end collectors, blending luxury retail with experiential theater. At the independent edge, Czapek’s Time Jumper shows what happens when you let designers off the leash, and Konstantin Chaykin keeps pushing physics with the ThinKing, a watch so thin it feels like a provocation more than a product.

New releases are doing what they do best—offering something for everyone while quietly reinforcing where the market is heading. Albishorn delivers a purpose-built alpine chronograph with vintage cues, while Desder enters the chat with a six-piece, triple-axis tourbillon that’s more mechanical sculpture than wristwatch. Formex continues its value-driven assault with forged carbon, and Minerva takes a conceptual swing with a crownless design that shifts everything to the bezel. Montblanc rolls out a broad, heritage-meets-modern lineup, Porsche Design refines its iconic Chronograph 1 in titanium, and independents like Stéphane Pierre and Straum push creativity and materials in opposite but equally compelling directions.

On the review side, the tone is more analytical. Greubel Forsey’s Balancier 3 is being positioned as a transitional piece for the brand—“entry-level” only in the most relative sense—while Schwarz Etienne offers a thoughtful GMT with genuine mechanical credibility. At the accessible end, Tissot continues to dominate the value conversation with the Gentleman, proving yet again that you don’t need to spend five figures to get a well-executed Swiss automatic.

Watches and Wonders 2026 is already shaping up to be more of a media event than ever, with a new collaborative initiative promising a flood of content and a broader mix of voices. If nothing else, it signals that coverage of the watch world is evolving just as quickly as the watches themselves.

The video lineup today leans into debate and practicality, from defending authorized dealers to questioning the entire concept of the “Holy Trinity,” with a mix of comparisons, buying advice, and enthusiast-driven storytelling. There’s also a strong undercurrent of realism—reminders to think before buying, to understand value, and to separate emotion from decision-making, even if most collectors will happily ignore that advice.

And then there’s the auction market, where reality continues to assert itself. Yesterday’s Glashütte Original Senator failed to meet reserve at $8,415, reinforcing the growing trend of hesitant bidding. Today’s headliner, the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down in white gold, sits at a modest $11,250 with the clock ticking toward an 8:05 pm EDT close. It’s exactly the kind of watch that thrives in a softer market—serious horology, no hype, and priced for buyers who are paying attention rather than chasing headlines.

All told, it’s a day that neatly captures the current state of the industry: part aspiration, part correction, and still more than capable of surprising you when you least expect it.

-Michael Wolf

News Time

The Watches Worn On The NASA Artemis II Mission

NASA’s Artemis II mission marks the first human-crewed lunar voyage since 1972, and the crew is equipped with Omega Speedmaster X-33 Generation 2 watches. The story emphasizes the X-33’s purpose-built suitability for spaceflight and its long association with NASA’s operational needs. It also underscores how the Speedmaster family continues to be used for both onboard timing and EVA-related demands, reinforcing its “space-qualified” legacy. The continued use of the second-generation X-33 highlights the durability and staying power of specialized tool watches in modern exploration.

Hamilton & Inches Adjusts To Life After Patek Philippe

Hamilton & Inches has been navigating major change since losing its Patek Philippe partnership as part of a broader distribution reset. After a strong final year with Patek (with £13.1M in sales and £1.3M operating profit), turnover fell and the business briefly dipped into an operating loss before returning to profitability. The jeweler has responded by leaning more heavily into Rolex, while doubling down on its strengths in silversmithing and fine jewelry. It has also reinforced its watchmaking credentials through service capabilities and participation in the Rolex Certified Pre-Owned program.

Tudor takes to the skies with Flying Bulls aerobatics squadron

Tudor has partnered with The Flying Bulls aerobatics team to deepen its association with high-performance, precision-driven sports. The collaboration puts Tudor watches on the wrists of all 12 pilots and extends branding across flight suits and aircraft, amplifying visibility at airshows around the world. This aviation tie-in complements Tudor’s existing sports partnerships and reinforces its “Born to Dare” narrative. The goal is to strengthen Tudor’s identity as a rugged, adventure-aligned luxury brand through a dramatic and globally mobile platform.

Feature Time

Horological Americana: A History of Hamilton Watch Company

Lancaster, Pennsylvania is presented as a living backdrop to Hamilton’s place in American watchmaking history, with local sites that preserve and celebrate the brand’s legacy. The story highlights attractions like the National Watch and Clock Museum and points to surviving Hamilton-era buildings as tangible links to the region’s horological past. It also connects the heritage to the present through the Hamilton boutique (in a former watchmaking school) and nearby independent craftsmanship at RGM. Overall, Lancaster is framed as a surprisingly rich destination where historical significance and modern watch culture still meet.

Checking in on Favre Leuba’s Iconic Chief Collection

Favre Leuba’s revived Chief Collection is positioned as a bridge between heritage styling and modern watchmaking ambition, including the brand’s first tourbillon and new skeletonized executions. The article walks through the refreshed lineup—chronographs, date models, and the tourbillon—showing how cushion cases and integrated bracelets create a cohesive design identity. A key focus is the Chief Tourbillon, developed with Jean-Francois Mojon, pairing technical credibility with everyday specs like strong water resistance and a solid power reserve. The collection’s pricing spread underscores how Favre Leuba is trying to re-enter the conversation from attainable luxury up to serious high-end statements.

The Vacheron Constantin Miami Design District Flagship Grand Opening—Spectacular is an Understatement

Vacheron Constantin’s new Miami Design District flagship is portrayed as a major statement, both in scale and in the kind of luxury experience it aims to deliver. The two-story, 5,400-square-foot boutique blends brand iconography with Miami references, including an indoor solarium garden and an art installation that nods to local street culture. Inside, the space is designed for varied client experiences, from open display areas to VIP salons, plus a strap customization bar and an on-site watchmaker. The opening is framed as a signal that Miami is becoming an increasingly important hub for high-end watch collecting.

Time Jumper is a great leap into the future for Czapek

Czapek’s Time Jumper is described as the result of an unusually open and creativity-first development process, where designers were encouraged to prioritize originality over commercial constraints. That collaborative approach is positioned as part of the brand’s broader identity—transparent, dialogue-driven, and closely connected to the collector community. The watch itself blends historic cues with a futuristic edge and emphasizes an integrated movement architecture rather than a modular build. In a crowded independent landscape, the story argues that Czapek is differentiating itself through coherent design, technical seriousness, and a willingness to evolve with the market.

Interview: Konstantin Chaykin on Making the World’s Thinnest Mechanical Watch, and the new ThinKing Mystery

Konstantin Chaykin’s ThinKing project is presented as an engineering-driven push to redefine what’s possible in ultra-thin mechanical watchmaking, targeting a record-setting 1.65mm profile. The piece highlights the unusual display architecture (including transparent sapphire discs) and the way the case and movement are integrated to achieve extreme thinness. It also stresses that moving from prototype to a small production run is a different challenge entirely, requiring tight control over tolerances, materials, and component reliability. Rather than treating the ThinKing as a one-off stunt, the story frames it as an ongoing platform for continued technical development.

The Latest Time

Albishorn

The new Albishorn Thundergraph Khumbu Chronograph

The Albishorn Thundergraph Khumbu Chronograph is a 39mm steel, alpine-inspired chronograph limited to 99 pieces, designed for practical use in demanding conditions (including easy operation with gloves). Its mint-green opaline dial and “California ghost” details lean into a vintage expedition aesthetic while keeping the layout straightforward. Power comes from the proprietary, hand-wound, COSC-certified ALB03 M movement, reinforcing the tool-watch intent with strong chronometric credentials. Price is about $4,577 on leather (CHF 3,650) or about $5,136 on bracelet (CHF 4,100).

Desder

Desder D001: A New Italian Watch Brand Launches with a Triple-Axis Tourbillon

Desder’s D001 launches with a dramatic triple-axis tourbillon built from 465 components, emphasizing high complexity and a sculptural, mechanical presence. The design uses German silver for stability and titanium to reduce mass, and it displays the time on displaced, rotating cylinders for a futuristic “instrument panel” feel. Production is limited to just six pieces, with each example expected to have small variations that underscore its artisanal nature. Price is described only as “six-figure,” with no specific amount provided.

Formex

Formex Unveil Reef “Forged Carbon” for Chronopolis 2026

Formex’s Reef “Forged Carbon” is a limited edition (100 pieces) dive watch built around a forged-carbon dial whose irregular pattern makes each watch visually unique. The model is positioned as both customizable and genuinely capable, highlighted by an interchangeable bezel system, 300m water resistance, and the Sellita SW300-1 with a 56-hour power reserve. The story frames it as a value-forward way to get high-performance materials usually seen at higher price tiers. Price is about $2,421 on rubber (£1,820) or about $2,647 on bracelet (£1,990).

Minerva

Minerva The Unveiled Crownless

Minerva’s “The Unveiled Crownless” eliminates the traditional crown by shifting all operation to the bezel, which winds the watch and sets the time via a concealed lever mechanism. The watch pairs this unusual functionality with a refined, heritage-leaning dial layout (including a guilloché chapter ring and a subsidiary seconds) inside a two-tone steel-and-gold case. Power comes from the in-house, manually wound Calibre M15.08 with an 80-hour power reserve, giving the concept real mechanical substance. Price is $38,000.

Montblanc

The 2026 Collection of Montblanc, from Rieussec and Iced Sea to 1858 and Star Legacy

Montblanc’s 2026 collection is presented as a broad lineup that mixes historical references with modern wearability across multiple families. Highlighted pieces include the Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph Limited Edition 821 with its rotating-disc chronograph display and horse-racing theme, alongside more compact and practical options like the 1858 Small Second 0 Oxygen. The Iced Sea line continues to push sport-luxury appeal with glacier-inspired dials and durable construction. Price is not listed in the database entry.

Porsche Design

The New, Non-Limited Porsche Design Chronograph 1 All Titanium

The Chronograph 1 All Titanium modernizes Porsche Design’s iconic 1972 chronograph with a lighter titanium build while remaining production-capped annually rather than strictly limited. It keeps the classic high-contrast dial with the signature red chronograph seconds hand for legibility, and adds a display caseback to showcase the WERK 01.240 movement. The story highlights everyday practicality too, including 100m water resistance and a quick-release bracelet system. Price is about $9,164 (EUR 7,950).

Stéphane Pierre

Stéphane Pierre Launches Indie Brand and First watch, L’Impétrant

Stéphane Pierre’s inaugural model, L’Impétrant, is a high-end independent debut built around a distinctive double retrograde display for hours and minutes. The watch uses Grade 23 titanium and an in-house movement running at 21,600 vph with a 70-hour power reserve, and it incorporates a Maltese cross stop mechanism aimed at improving setting precision. With only 15 pieces planned, the story emphasizes both the complexity of the construction and the specialist collaboration involved in bringing it to market. Price is about $105,218 (CHF 84,000).

Straum

Straum Launch Jan Mayen Arctic Titanium Series and Purple Borealis Limited Edition

Straum’s Jan Mayen Arctic Titanium Series updates the line to Grade 5 titanium, reducing weight while keeping the established design and functionality collectors already like. The Purple Borealis edition is inspired by the STEVE atmospheric phenomenon, featuring a gradient dial from deep purple to rose-violet with high-contrast hands and luminous indices. A new purple FKM rubber strap expands how the watch can be worn and reinforces the collection’s outdoor-friendly positioning. Price is about $2,115 for the titanium model on rubber (£1,590), and steel models are noted as starting around $1,782 (£1,340).

Wearing Time - Reviews

Greubel Forsey

Get The Balance Right: A Closer Look at The New Greubel Forsey Balancier 3

Greubel Forsey’s Balancier 3 is presented as a pivotal release for the brand, arriving in the wake of co-founder Stephen Forsey’s departure and signaling a new chapter. The watch emphasizes precision and clarity through a distinctive three-bridge architecture, executed in polished titanium with a new surface treatment that plays matte against reflective areas. Inside, it features the brand’s variable-inertia balance and a movement made up of 282 components, delivering a 72-hour power reserve. It’s limited to 22 pieces and positioned as an “entry-level” Greubel Forsey while still reflecting the brand’s high standards.

Schwarz Etienne

Schwarz Etienne 1902 GMT Watch Hands-On: A Rare Blend Of Classicism And A 24-Hour Dial

The Schwarz Etienne 1902 GMT pairs traditional, dress-leaning aesthetics with a more unusual 24-hour dial format and a practical GMT complication. It’s offered with either a silver or blue dial, housed in a polished titanium case that aims to keep the look refined while staying lightweight. The in-house ASE 320.000 micro-rotor movement is highlighted as a standout feature, combining rarity with strong mechanics, including an 86-hour power reserve and high-grade finishing. Overall, the watch is framed as a sophisticated alternative for travelers who want something distinctive without abandoning classic design cues.

Tissot

The Affordable Automatic Watch Tissot Keeps Getting Right

The Tissot Gentleman expands with a new 38mm version that keeps the core formula of the 40mm model—clean design, strong finishing for the money, and a versatile everyday profile. The case mixes brushed and polished surfaces, with a domed sapphire crystal and an exhibition caseback, while dial options include silver, black, blue, and green with a pyramidal sunray texture. It uses the Powermatic 80 with a Nivachron balance spring, trading the larger model’s silicon hairspring for robust everyday resistance and reliability. Price is $850, positioned as a compelling value play in entry-level Swiss mechanical watches.

Watches and Wonders 2026

The Five Take On Watches And Wonders 2026

A new media collaboration is launching for Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026, bringing together five influential voices across editorial, retail, collector, and digital perspectives. The goal is to move beyond traditional event reporting by producing high-volume, multi-format coverage across platforms like Instagram and YouTube, with plans for over 1,000 pieces of content from more than 30 brand appointments. A centerpiece event will be The Five Party and Panel on April 16 at Rooftop 42, featuring a live discussion with audience interaction. With a combined reach cited at over two million daily impressions, the initiative aims to deliver a more dynamic and multi-angled view of the show for both longtime enthusiasts and new audiences.

Watching Time - Videos

ON TIME: Everyone HATES Authorized Dealers… But They’re Wrong! - YouTube - ᴢᴇʀᴏ ᴛᴏ ꜱɪxᴛʏ

This video challenges the common dislike of authorized dealers by unpacking why consumers often see them as unnecessary middlemen. It argues that authorized dealers can provide real value through product expertise, warranty support, and access to genuine inventory. By addressing typical complaints and offering counterpoints, it aims to reframe authorized dealers as a net benefit to the buying experience. The takeaway is that working with authorized channels can reduce risk and increase peace of mind.

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Longines Hydroconquest VS OMEGA Seamaster - Who Wins?! - YouTube - Chisholm Hunter

This comparison video evaluates the Longines Hydroconquest against the Omega Seamaster across design, features, and overall performance. It highlights how both watches bring different strengths to the table, appealing to different priorities and budgets among dive-watch fans. The presentation is structured to help viewers weigh durability, water-ready practicality, and style as part of a purchase decision. It also touches on the lifestyle and prestige angles that often come with these two well-known names.

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RZE Resolute Type A Titanium Flieger - YouTube - Random Rob

This review focuses on the RZE Resolute Type A Titanium Flieger, emphasizing the appeal of lightweight titanium construction paired with a classic flieger-inspired format. The video walks through the watch’s design and materials, aiming to show what differentiates it in a crowded field of practical, everyday tool watches. It’s positioned as a durability-forward option that can work for enthusiasts and casual wear alike. Overall, the review frames the watch as a functional, modern take on an aviation-styled piece.

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Watch This Before You Shop at Rolex Again - YouTube - Luxury Secret

This video is designed as a cautionary pre-buy checklist for anyone considering another Rolex purchase. It stresses the value of being informed about market dynamics and potential pitfalls that can influence the buying experience. It also encourages viewers to examine their personal motivations for buying luxury and ensure the decision aligns with financial priorities and values. The overall message is to slow down, get clarity, and avoid predictable mistakes.

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The ULTIMATE Petrolhead Watch | Drop #271 - YouTube - Subdial

This episode spotlights a watch concept aimed directly at automotive enthusiasts, framing it as a crossover of horology and car culture. While the database summary is light on specific product details, it builds anticipation around a design that’s meant to resonate with “petrolhead” priorities—style, mechanical interest, and thematic connection to cars. The thrust of the video is about why this watch stands apart from typical releases and why it matters to that niche audience. It positions the featured piece as an enthusiast-driven, culture-forward watch story.

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Hidden Gem: This Affordable Watch Is Insane! - YouTube - ONE Watches

This video highlights a budget-friendly watch presented as an unusually strong value, aiming to prove you don’t need a high price tag to get something compelling. It focuses on what makes the featured watch stand out in design and practicality, positioning it as a “hidden gem” worth attention. The content is geared toward viewers who want maximum impact per dollar and are open to non-mainstream picks. The overall goal is to help shoppers identify a standout affordable option in a crowded market.

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The changing world of tool watches with Bremont CEO, Davide Cerrato | AFTER HOURS - YouTube - The After Hours Show

This conversation with Bremont CEO Davide Cerrato looks at how tool watches have evolved and what still defines them today—functionality, durability, and purpose-built design. Cerrato discusses how shifting consumer expectations and modern technology are changing the category while brands try to preserve authenticity and craftsmanship. The discussion frames the challenge as balancing heritage with innovation so tool watches stay relevant. It’s a broader industry-level look rather than a single-watch review.

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Fratello Talks: Watches We Personally Love But Would Not Recommend - YouTube - Fratello

This episode explores the gap between personal taste and practical recommendations, featuring watches the hosts genuinely love despite acknowledging they may not suit most buyers. It leans into the emotional side of collecting—why certain pieces connect with someone beyond specs or value. The discussion mixes sentiment with critique, offering insight into how enthusiasts think about “irrational” favorites. It ultimately encourages viewers to understand their own preferences while staying realistic about what’s best for others.

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The Holy Trinity of Watches is Wrong - YouTube - Ben’s Watches

This video challenges the traditional idea of the watch industry’s “Holy Trinity,” arguing that the usual hierarchy doesn’t fully reflect modern innovation and craftsmanship. It questions why certain brands hold elite status and whether that framework still makes sense today. By pointing viewers toward overlooked makers, it promotes a broader, more open-minded approach to defining excellence in horology. The intent is to spark debate and encourage collectors to evaluate value and quality beyond legacy labels.

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Talking Time - Podcasts

Scottish Watches Podcast #766 : Watches That Get Your Heart Racing - Scottish Watches

This episode of the Scottish Watches Podcast (#766) is recorded at The Moulsdale Foundation in Glasgow, using the setting of an automotive museum to frame a conversation about watches that spark real enthusiasm. The hosts (Jez and Dave Neal), joined by car expert Ted, discuss a range of watches from brands like Rolex, Tudor, and Breitling while connecting them to the broader culture of cars and motorsports. They also share personal pieces from their own collections, using them as jumping-off points to talk design, function, and why certain watches feel especially exciting. The result is a fast-moving, enthusiast-focused episode that leans into the overlap between horology and automotive passion.

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BuyingTime at Auction

A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com

[Thursday’s auction watch, the 2025 Glashütte Original Senator Panorama Date 40 Rose Gold / Silvered / Roman / Strap (1-00-03-32-45-04) - was bid to $8,415 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]

2021 A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down White Gold (234.026)

German Precision, Honest Pricing: The Lange 1815 Up/Down Quietly Does Its Job

There are watches that shout for attention, and then there’s the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 Up/Down, which does the exact opposite—and is all the better for it. The 2021 example crossing the block here, reference 234.026 in white gold, represents one of the purest expressions of Saxon watchmaking still in regular production. At 39mm and just under 9mm thick, it wears like a dress watch but carries enough presence to avoid feeling fragile or outdated, a balance Lange has quietly mastered over decades.

The 1815 line itself is rooted in the brand’s revival in the 1990s and draws inspiration from the pocket watches of founder Ferdinand Adolph Lange, with the Up/Down complication adding a practical layer to the classical design. The power reserve indicator—positioned at 8 o’clock—isn’t just decorative. It’s a nod to Lange’s historical marine chronometers and precision instruments, reminding the wearer exactly how much of the 72-hour reserve remains in the manually wound caliber L051.2. This movement is where the watch justifies its price: untreated German silver plates, hand-engraved balance cock, gold chatons, and finishing that remains among the best in the industry.

The reference 234.026 represents the second-generation redesign introduced around 2010, refining proportions and improving legibility with larger subdials and a more contemporary stance while maintaining the traditional aesthetic. It’s the kind of incremental improvement Lange excels at—no drama, just better execution.

From a market standpoint, this is where things get interesting. While retail pricing for the model has climbed into the high $30,000 range, the secondary market tells a more grounded story. Current trading levels hover roughly in the mid-$20,000s, often around $23,000–$29,000 depending on condition and completeness, representing a meaningful discount to retail. That gap—roughly 35–40% below retail—is typical for the 1815 family and reflects a broader softening in the secondary market rather than any issue with the watch itself.

Your example checks the right boxes: box, papers, excellent dial and movement condition, and only minor wear on the case and strap. That puts it squarely in the “collector-grade wearable” category—not a safe queen, but close enough to satisfy most buyers looking for a clean Lange without paying boutique prices.

The reality is that this watch sits in a slightly awkward but advantageous position. It’s not hyped like a steel sports model, not rare enough to spark bidding wars, and not cheap enough to be an impulse buy. That combination tends to suppress auction fireworks but creates real opportunity for disciplined buyers. In this market—where even high-end watches are seeing more “reserve not met” outcomes—pieces like this often trade based on value logic rather than emotion.

Expect bidding to land somewhere in the mid-to-high $20,000 range if the room is engaged, with anything closer to the low $20,000s representing a genuine buy. The underlying value proposition is hard to argue with: one of the finest manually finished movements in production, a historically grounded design, and a brand that still carries serious weight among collectors.

The auction closes at 8:05 pm EDT tonight (Friday, April 3, 2026). If you’ve been waiting for a way into Lange without paying retail or chasing hype, this is exactly the kind of watch that rewards patience.

Current bid: $11,250

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BuyingTime Daily - April 2, 2026

Thu, 02 Apr 2026 10:15:13 GMT

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Time Graphing today’s watch universe

Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe for April 2, 2026 reads like a market trying to hold its composure while quietly raising prices, experimenting with new ideas, and reminding everyone that not all watches need to shout to be heard. The biggest headline belongs to Tudor, which has once again nudged prices higher—its fourth increase in just 15 months—this time slipping the changes onto its website without so much as a press release. The cumulative effect is starting to chip away at the brand’s “accessible luxury” positioning, and while tariffs, currency pressure, and broader inflation trends are the usual suspects, the lack of transparency is becoming part of the story. At some point, even loyal buyers start to notice when the goalposts keep moving.

On the more whimsical side of the industry, and it being April Fool’s Day, Thomas Crapper & Co. has entered horology with The Venerable Watch, proving that if you can market toilets, you can market anything—including the philosophical connection between fluid dynamics and timekeeping. Meanwhile, Studio Underd0g continues to push boundaries with strap concepts that range from clever to borderline absurd, including a bicep-mounted watch and a cap-integrated timepiece. Whether these are genuine innovations or just horological performance art depends entirely on how seriously you take your wristwear.

New releases, however, remind us that traditional watchmaking is still very much alive and well. Chronoswiss introduced its Pulse GMT models with serious craft credentials, from paillonné enamel to guilloché, while Cleguer Horology debuted with a technically ambitious escapement that signals yet another independent trying to rewrite the rules. Over in Japan, Credor delivered a masterclass in restraint and artistry, with engraved tourbillons and urushi lacquer dials that feel closer to museum objects than everyday watches, alongside a more wearable Locomotive that nods to Gérald Genta’s original design language.

That influence continues with Gerald Charles, which unveiled a titanium perpetual calendar that tries to make one of watchmaking’s most intimidating complications feel almost practical. At the more accessible end, Heinrich and Kiwame Tokyo leaned into value and thoughtful design, while Nivada Grenchen reminded everyone that even a tool watch can have a sense of humor with its animated caseback that is NSFW. Speake-Marin rounded things out with a high-frequency, ultra-thin take on the integrated sports watch, proving that the category still has room to evolve.

On the review front, Citizen quietly stole the spotlight with its Attesa Shades of Red Super Titanium, a reminder that quartz—when done properly—can still feel like a luxury proposition. The broader comparison between Citizen and Casio reinforced a familiar divide: one brand wins on long-term utility and refinement, the other on simplicity and cult-like appeal. Either way, the takeaway is that “value” in watches is increasingly about clarity of purpose rather than price alone.

The video lineup leans heavily into consumer guidance, from what not to buy in 2026 to the ongoing struggles of microbrands and the economics behind certified pre-owned programs—particularly the margin pressures facing dealers working within the Rolex ecosystem. It’s a useful reminder that the business side of watches is getting just as complicated as the products themselves.

And finally, in the auction world, yesterday’s Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Extreme failed to meet reserve at $11,275, which tells you a lot about where buyer sentiment is right now. Today’s featured lot, the Glashütte Original Senator Panorama Date in rose gold, feels like the antidote to all the noise—a composed, quietly confident dress watch currently sitting at $5,200 with the auction closing at 6:40 p.m. EDT. In a market increasingly defined by hype cycles and price creep, it’s almost refreshing to see a watch that simply relies on being good.

–Michael Wolf

News Time

Tudor Quietly Raises Prices Again—Fourth Increase in 15 Months Appears Online Without Announcement

Tudor has rolled out another round of U.S. price increases, its fourth adjustment in roughly 15 months, and this time it appears to have happened without any formal announcement. The updated pricing is already visible on Tudor’s website, continuing a pattern of incremental hikes that began in early 2025 and has averaged a bit over 5% per increase. Over that span, some models (including the Black Bay GMT “Pepsi”) have seen especially noticeable cumulative jumps, raising questions about Tudor’s long-standing “accessible Swiss luxury” positioning. While currency pressure and shifting U.S. trade conditions may be contributing factors, the frequency and lack of transparency are fueling criticism and could begin to impact consumer trust.

Feature Time

Thomas Crapper & Co. Of England Introduces The Venerable Watch To Celebrate Anniversary

Thomas Crapper & Co. is marking its 165th anniversary with The Venerable Watch, a wristwatch meant to honor the brand’s long history in British plumbing and sanitation. The story traces how Thomas Crapper’s showroom-first marketing and refinements helped make modern bathrooms more accepted and aspirational, even if the company didn’t invent the toilet itself. The watch ties that legacy to horology by drawing parallels between how watches and toilets regulate flow and function through precise mechanisms. Design details lean into the theme, including porcelain enamel on the dial and a “water cyclone” visual effect meant to echo fluid dynamics.

Hit Or Miss? What To Think About Studio Underd0g’s Revolutionary Strap Solutions?

Studio Underd0g has debuted three unconventional strap concepts—The Triple Wrister, The Bicep Strap, and The Cap Strap—created by designer Magnus Swann to rethink how (and where) a watch can be worn. The Triple Wrister is aimed at enthusiasts who want to wear multiple watches at once, while the Bicep Strap proposes a higher placement that could reduce tan lines and feel more secure in crowds. The Cap Strap is designed for discreet time-checking, referencing older etiquette where openly checking the time could be seen as impolite. The piece frames these ideas as both intriguing and potentially polarizing, questioning whether a conservative watch audience will embrace them and whether they can become a broader trend.

The Latest Time

Chronoswiss

The new Chronoswiss Pulse GMT Series

Chronoswiss is adding two new Pulse GMT models ahead of Watches and Wonders 2026, keeping the brand’s layered, regulator-like design language while leaning hard into traditional crafts. The Pulse GMT Enamel Sky Gold is a 50-piece limited edition in 18k 5N red gold with a paillonné enamel dial, while the Pulse GMT Silver Guilloché is a 200-piece run in Grade 5 titanium with a hand-guilloché dial. Both use the manufacture calibre C.6002 with a dual-time module for local time plus a GMT display, paired with blued steel hands and a multi-level dial for legibility. Price is about $102,660 USD (EUR 87,000) for the Enamel Sky Gold and about $21,830 USD (EUR 18,500) for the Silver Guilloché.

Cleguer Horology

Cleguer Horology Launches with the Inspiration One Souscription and a new “Innate” Escapement Geometry

Cleguer Horology debuts with the Inspiration One Souscription, a 38.5mm titanium watch that’s built around a highly three-dimensional movement presentation and a proprietary “Innate” escapement geometry. The escapement takes cues from traditional approaches but is engineered to reduce sliding friction, improving efficiency while limiting wear over time. The release is extremely limited at 12 pieces and emphasizes independent-style finishing and bespoke technical solutions rather than mass-market convenience. Pre-sale pricing is about $70,560 USD (CHF 56,000), with future editions planned at about $120,078 USD (CHF 95,300).

Credor

Credor Goldfeather Tourbillon Engraved Limited Edition GBCF997

This Goldfeather Tourbillon limited edition (25 pieces) showcases Credor’s Japanese decorative craft at a very high level, using fine engraving techniques to create a feather-like radial texture across the dial. Details like engraved Roman numerals and movement components are cut to catch light sharply, while additional traditional textures add depth and density to the surface. The watch is housed in a 38.6mm hand-polished platinum case that stays remarkably slim, and it runs on calibre 6850 with a tourbillon and a 60-hour power reserve. Price is about $230,100 USD (EUR 195,000).

Credor

Credor Goldfeather Urushi Lacquer Dial Limited Edition GBBY967

Credor’s Goldfeather Urushi Lacquer Dial limited edition (25 pieces) centers on a deep blue urushi lacquer dial with a carefully built gradient effect created through repeated layering. Platinum-powder appliqués applied via the taka maki-e technique add sparkle and relief, reinforcing the sense that the dial is more artwork than ornament. It’s paired with a thin, hand-polished platinum case and the ultra-thin calibre 6890 for an elegant, dress-forward profile. Price is about $46,020 USD (EUR 39,000).

Credor

The new Dawn Blue Credor Locomotive GCCR995

The Dawn Blue Credor Locomotive is a compact luxury sports watch that keeps the Locomotive’s hexagonal design DNA while adding a dial color meant to evoke the early-morning sky. The titanium case is 38.8mm wide and relatively slim, with 100m water resistance and an integrated-bracelet look that nods to the original Gérald Genta sketch from 1978. Inside is Credor’s automatic calibre CR01 with a 45-hour power reserve, keeping the package modern and daily-wear capable. Price is about $12,474 USD (JPY 1,980,000), with release scheduled for June 2026.

Gerald Genta

The new Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar

This titanium integrated-bracelet perpetual calendar focuses on usability, most notably through an oversized date display intended to make the complication feel practical rather than precious. It’s powered by the ultra-thin automatic calibre GCA11000 (50-hour power reserve), with finishing and visual motifs inspired by Geneva that can be appreciated through the caseback. Two dial options are offered—one with a smoked gradient effect and one that uses sapphire/open-work to reveal more of the calendar mechanism. Pricing is about $79,380 USD (CHF 63,000) for the smoked dial and about $88,200 USD (CHF 70,000) for the sapphire/open-work version.

Heinrich

Heinrich Continues to Expand their Radiance Line with the “Wave”

Heinrich’s Radiance line expands with the Guilloche Wave, a 100-piece limited edition that uses a wave-like guilloché dial pattern paired with a small seconds register and an Art Deco-leaning marker set. The stainless-steel case stays compact at 38.5mm and notably thin at around 8mm, driven by a manually wound ETA 7001. Despite the dressy profile, it’s positioned as a daily wearer with 100m water resistance and a mix of brushed/polished finishing that aims above its price tier. Retail price is $1,164 USD.

Kiwame Tokyo

Kiwame Tokyo Launches its Third Chapter, the Accessible MUNE Series

Kiwame Tokyo’s MUNE series is positioned as “accessible luxury,” keeping the brand’s vintage-leaning proportions while adding crisp Japanese design cues and lacquered dials in ivory (Usuki) or black (Kurotsuki). The stainless-steel case uses sapphire crystal and offers 100m water resistance, while the dial layout leans into 1940s chronometer vibes with applied Arabic numerals and a distinctive minute track. Power comes from the Miyota 9039 automatic with a 42-hour reserve, prioritizing reliability and serviceability. Price is $690 USD, with availability starting April 15, 2026.

Nivada Grenchen

The New and Cheeky Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Erotic

The Antarctic Erotic takes Nivada Grenchen’s familiar 38mm Antarctic platform and adds an unexpected animated caseback automaton that springs to life when the watch is wound. It keeps the idea of a practical, strap-friendly tool watch up front, while hiding the playful “Easter egg” on the back for a more discreet kind of novelty. The story also ties the modern release back to Antarctic exploration history and notes the brand’s partnership with Oceanites to support penguin-population monitoring. Pricing is about $1,888–$2,130 USD (EUR 1,600–1,805), depending on strap option.

Speake-Marin

Speake Marin Ripples Kármán Line

The Ripples Kármán Line extends Speake-Marin’s integrated sports line with an ultra-thin profile and a sapphire dial that uses a sunray-style texture for depth without visual heaviness. A new SMA06 automatic movement runs at a high frequency (36,000 vph), positioning this as both a design piece and a technical upgrade focused on precision. The 904L steel case and multiple strap options aim for a modern, versatile-wear package, while the name references the boundary between atmosphere and space as a theme of transition and exploration. Price is about $42,714 USD (CHF 33,900).

Wearing Time - Reviews

Review: Citizen Attesa Shades of Red Super Titanium

This review highlights the Citizen Attesa Shades of Red Super Titanium as a standout luxury quartz piece that pairs an eye-catching aesthetic with serious capability. Inspired by a total lunar eclipse, the dial shifts through red-to-purple tones depending on the light, giving it a dynamic presence on the wrist. Functionally, it’s packed with high-end complications including GPS satellite timekeeping, dual time, and a perpetual calendar, while the Super Titanium construction keeps it lightweight and comfortable for daily wear. The reviewer argues the Attesa line deserves more recognition given the feature set and overall value, noting the watch exceeded expectations and made them want to own one.

Comparing Time

Citizen vs Casio: 10-Year Affordable Watch Brand Review and Comparison

This comparison frames Citizen and Casio as two affordable-watch giants with very different philosophies. Citizen is positioned as the more “tool-and-utility” brand, built around practical durability and long-term reliability, with strengths like solar charging and robust designs that suit real-world use. Casio, by contrast, is portrayed as the champion of simplicity and low-maintenance wear, offering lightweight, resilient watches that ask very little of the wearer day-to-day. The piece also notes that Casio benefits from a loud, collector-driven community (from the F-91W to G-Shock), while Citizen tends to earn loyalty through long-term ownership and everyday usefulness.

Deal Time

Bang for Your Buck: 10 Watches That Offer Great Value

This piece rounds up ten affordable watches that aim to maximize value by combining strong design, dependable reliability, and recognizable brand heritage. The list is meant to show that building a satisfying collection doesn’t have to be expensive, especially when you focus on models that deliver solid specifications and lasting appeal. Examples highlighted include the Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 for its sporty look and strong power reserve, the Casio G-Shock Full Metal for toughness, and the Hamilton Khaki Field for military-inspired versatility. Overall, it’s positioned as a practical shortlist for newer collectors and a budget-friendly refresh for more seasoned enthusiasts.

Watching Time - Videos

7 Watches You Should NEVER Buy in 2026 - YouTube - The Watch Bros

This video runs through seven watches the creators argue you should avoid buying in 2026. The recommendations are framed around practical buyer concerns like design shortcomings, durability issues, and brands/models that may not deliver on expectations. It’s positioned as a “what not to do” guide meant to help viewers dodge common purchase regrets. The overall goal is to sharpen decision-making so buyers focus on watches that offer stronger value and long-term satisfaction.

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All The BEST Value Watches Of 2026 - YouTube

This video highlights a selection of watches positioned as the best value picks for 2026, aiming at both enthusiasts and more casual buyers. The emphasis is on finding models that balance affordability, quality, and style rather than simply chasing hype or luxury branding. It also frames “value” as a set of traits viewers can evaluate—so the picks are meant to be educational as well as recommendatory. The format is designed to make it easier to match a watch choice to budget and preferences without sacrificing overall quality.

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The Truth About Watch Microbrand “Failure” - YouTube - Doug’s Watches

This video digs into why so many watch microbrands struggle, pushing back on simplistic narratives about “failure.” It points to structural pressures like market saturation, intense competition from established brands, and the difficulty of building an audience that sticks around beyond a single launch. It also explores what can help microbrands succeed, such as clearer differentiation, smarter marketing, and cultivating an engaged community. The result is a more balanced look at both the risks and the potential paths to sustainability.

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Rolex CPO Margin Problem – The Real Cost of Certified Pre-Owned for Dealers - YouTube - Collective Horology

This video focuses on the economics behind Rolex’s certified pre-owned (CPO) market, specifically how dealer margins can be squeezed once certification and inventory costs are accounted for. It frames CPO as more complex than it appears from the consumer side, where “certified” can feel like a straightforward premium upgrade. By unpacking the cost structure, it highlights why profitability and pricing pressures may shape what dealers are willing (or able) to offer. It also raises broader questions about how CPO affects perceptions of value in the luxury watch space.

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Talking Time - Podcasts

The Business of Watches Podcast: Maxime Couturier And Lorenzo Maillard Of The New Chronopolis Watch Fair

This episode features Maxime Couturier and Lorenzo Maillard introducing Chronopolis, a new watch fair planned for downtown Geneva to run alongside Watches and Wonders during Geneva Watch Week. With roughly 20 participating brands, the goal is to complement the existing fair by creating a more community-driven gathering point for dealers, collectors, and fans. They describe Chronopolis as an attempt to capture the “fun” side of watch culture and make the scene feel more open and energetic. A key theme is how the industry can better engage younger audiences by offering a fresher, more approachable environment for brands and enthusiasts.

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BuyingTime at Auction

A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com

[Thursday’s auction watch, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Extreme World Alarm Tides of Time 46.3 Rose Gold / Black / Arabic / Strap - Limited to 200 Pieces (Q1772470) - was bid to $11,275 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]

2025 Glashütte Original Senator Panorama Date 40 Rose Gold / Silvered / Roman / Strap (1-00-03-32-45-04)

Glashütte Original Senator Panorama Date in Rose Gold Is the Kind of Dress Watch That Makes Most “Luxury” Watches Look Loud

The 2025 Glashütte Original Senator Panorama Date ref. 1-00-03-32-45-04 is one of those watches that does not need to scream to make its point. In a 40 mm rose-gold case with a silvered dial, black railroad minute track, Roman numerals, blued hands, and the brand’s signature Panorama Date, it leans fully into the old-school Saxon idea that refinement should look effortless, even when the execution is anything but. The watch is powered by the in-house automatic Caliber 100-03, a movement known for its three-quarter plate architecture, swan-neck fine adjustment, 51 jewels, and about 55 hours of power reserve, all visible through the display back.

That matters because this is not just another generic rose-gold dress watch trying to pass itself off as serious horology. The Senator line has long served as Glashütte Original’s home for classical German watchmaking, and the Panorama Date is one of the brand’s signature calling cards, with the outsized date display tracing its roots in the collection back to the late 1990s. The result is a watch that lands in a sweet spot between formal and practical: dressy enough for a suit, but with enough visual authority from the date display and the architecture of the dial to keep it from drifting into museum-piece boredom.

This particular example has a lot going for it from an auction standpoint. It is listed as unworn, with box and papers, and that full-set, near-new presentation is exactly what buyers want when they are shopping a modern precious-metal watch outside a boutique. That is especially true with a piece like this, where condition is everything and where even minor wear can quickly turn “carefully owned” into “why am I paying this much?” On paper, this one avoids that problem nicely.

As for value, the market gives a fairly clear picture. Current listings for this exact reference are clustering around the low-to-mid teens, with examples advertised around roughly $12,950, $13,999, and as high as the mid-$15,000s depending on seller, condition, and geography. A listed retail figure of $19,500 also appears for this reference from a major dealer source, which helps explain the appeal here: in a market where buyers have become a lot less charitable about overpaying for precious-metal dress watches, this model can look like a relatively civilized buy when it trades well below original retail.

That is also why the Senator Panorama Date occupies an interesting niche. It is luxurious, yes, but it is not hyped. And in 2026 that can actually be a selling point. A lot of collectors have grown tired of paying marketing premiums for watches whose main complication is social-media visibility. This Glashütte Original offers actual watchmaking, actual finishing, and actual design restraint. In other words, it is a grown-up watch, which is not always the fastest-selling category on the internet, but is often the one that looks smartest after the excitement wears off.

For bidders, the question is less whether the watch is good and more whether the estimate stays sane. If this example remains somewhere around the lower end of current market asks, it starts to look very compelling. Push it too close to retail territory, and the rational case gets weaker, because dress watches in rose gold are not exactly the most liquid asset class on earth. They are bought more with taste than urgency, and that tends to keep a lid on runaway bidding. Still, among modern German dress watches, this is an awfully polished package: handsome proportions, real in-house credibility, and enough traditional detail to remind you that understatement is usually more expensive than flash.

The auction ends today at 6:40 p.m. EDT (Thursday, April 2, 2026). If bidding stays disciplined, this could be the kind of auction where the winner winds up with a watch far more sophisticated than the final price suggests.

Current bid: $5,200

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BuyingTime Daily - April 1, 2026

Wed, 01 Apr 2026 10:15:13 GMT

Go to our Live News Site

Time Graphing today’s watch universe

Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe for April 1, 2026 reads like a study in contrasts—heritage consolidation on one end and experimental optimism on the other, all wrapped in a market that’s still trying to figure out exactly where it stands.

The biggest headline belongs to Patek Philippe, which has effectively absorbed Beyer Chronometrie, the world’s oldest watch retailer, marking the end of a 266-year multi-brand legacy. It’s a symbolic shift as much as a strategic one: another signal that the industry’s most powerful names continue tightening control over distribution, even at the expense of historic independent retail institutions. At the same time, the Horological Society of New York reminded everyone that the cultural backbone of watchmaking is alive and well, raising $1.2 million to fund education and scholarships while honoring François-Paul Journe, a figure who increasingly feels like a bridge between traditional craft and modern collecting psychology.

Out in the market, Miami’s Vintage Watch World show delivered a surprisingly upbeat tone, with strong attendance and sales suggesting that while speculative froth may be gone, real collectors are still very much engaged. Demand appears to be broadening beyond the usual trophy pieces, which is exactly what a maturing market should look like. Layered on top of that, suppliers like Positive Coating are quietly shaping the future of watch aesthetics, proving that materials science—PVD, ALD, and beyond—is becoming just as important as movement architecture in defining what’s “new.”

The historical lens this week added useful perspective, from Henry VIII’s role in elevating horology into a symbol of power to Sir David Salomons’ obsessive documentation of Breguet, reminding us that today’s collecting culture didn’t appear out of nowhere—it was built by individuals who treated watches as intellectual pursuits long before they became financial assets.

On the product front, the pipeline is busy and notably diverse. Baltic continues its run of clever, accessible complications with the Heures du Monde, while Bell & Ross leans into architectural watchmaking with the BR-X3 Micro-Rotor, blurring the line between case and movement. Breguet delivers a more classical flex with the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde, while Citizen proves once again that dial innovation doesn’t need a five-figure price tag. At the high end, Ferdinand Berthoud is operating in its own universe of mechanical extremity, and indie momentum remains strong with Fleming’s Series 1 Mark II. Meanwhile, Tissot quietly does what it does best—refining the everyday watch with the new Gentleman 38mm, which might be one of the most commercially relevant releases of the week.

Reviews continue to reinforce how wide the playing field has become. Gerald Charles is pushing high-complication sport watches into a category with almost no direct competition, while the legacy of Gérald Genta still feels refreshingly unconventional decades later. New entrants like Golden Concept are attempting to jump from accessories into full watchmaking, and pieces like the Mandetbrote Orbital show that there’s still room for playful mechanical experimentation. At the entry level, Nomos keeps tightening its grip with incremental but meaningful improvements to the Club Campus, which continues to serve as a gateway into mechanical collecting.

The editorial takeaway is blunt: brands may be talking directly to consumers more than ever, but the industry ignores retailers at its own risk. As demand normalizes, that feedback loop becomes less optional and more essential.

On the media side, the videos worth your time lean heavily into new releases and practical insight, with strong coverage of the Tissot Gentleman, deep dives into niche collecting, and a particularly compelling look at Breguet’s updated Tradition models. The Fratello podcast adds a useful reminder that value hunting in vintage still exists—just not always where people are looking.

And then there’s the auction market, which continues to tell the truth even when brands won’t. The Patek Philippe 5236P failed to meet its reserve at $63,000, reinforcing the growing gap between seller expectations and buyer reality. Meanwhile, today’s featured piece—the unapologetically oversized Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Extreme World Alarm “Tides of Time”—sits at $10,050 with hours to go, embodying a very specific era of watchmaking excess that may finally be finding its niche audience again.

All told, today’s watch universe feels less like a boom and more like a recalibration—heritage tightening its grip, innovation pushing outward, and the market somewhere in between trying to decide what still matters.

–Michael Wolf

News Time

World’s Oldest Watch Store Acquired by Patek Philippe

Beyer Chronometrie, widely recognized as the world’s oldest watch store with a 266-year history, has been acquired by Patek Philippe and is expected to close by the end of the year. The transition follows the 2025 death of longtime owner René Beyer, who had arranged the sale before passing. Under the takeover, Beyer’s multi-brand business will be shut down while Patek Philippe expands the existing boutique (originally opened in 2011 as the brand’s first and only third-party boutique in Switzerland). Notably, the famed Beyer watch museum in the basement is not included in the deal and is expected to relocate elsewhere in Zurich.

Horological Society of New York raises $1.2 million to invest in mission to advance watchmaking

The Horological Society of New York (HSNY) marked its 160th anniversary by raising a record $1.2 million at its annual gala at the Plaza Hotel, drawing more than 500 attendees from across the watch community. A charity auction featuring standout items such as a signed F.P. Journe clock and a unique titanium wristwatch helped drive the fundraising total. HSNY also announced $450,000 in planned support for scholarships and watchmaking schools—an increase that underscores its expanded commitment to education. The evening also honored François‑Paul Journe with the Howard Fass Award for Lifetime Achievement, alongside a Centennial Recognition Award for London Jewelers.

Feature Time

A Record-Breaking Year at the Vintage Watch World’s Biggest Show

The Vintage Watch World show in Miami Beach delivered a record year for both attendance and sales, with exhibitors citing strong demand across vintage and modern categories. Dealers noted that buyer interest has broadened beyond the usual marquee names, suggesting a healthier, more diversified collector market. Several sellers reported standout results in neo-vintage Audemars Piguet and classic Patek Philippe references, reinforcing continued appetite for quality and rarity. Even with some price resistance on certain hyped models, the overall tone was optimism driven by stable market conditions.

Positive Coating: the strategy of positive layers

Positive Coating, founded in 2004, has built its reputation on advanced vacuum surface treatments for watchmaking, evolving from innovative metal-coloring methods into broader applications using technologies like PVD and ALD. The company’s work enables new gradients and finishes that improve both durability and visual impact, making coatings a key creative and functional lever for brands. Alongside technical growth, it has positioned sustainability as a core operating principle, with goals to cut emissions and adopt more circular material practices. Team-wide initiatives and partnerships underscore its push to pair responsible manufacturing with continued experimentation.

A Majestic Journey Through Clocks & Watches Made for Royalty: Henry VIII and the Birth of Royal Time

This piece explores how royal patronage—especially Henry VIII’s fascination with timekeeping—helped accelerate horological advancement and elevated clocks and watches as symbols of power. It spotlights landmark commissions like Hampton Court’s astronomical clock, showing how science, craftsmanship, and status converged in Tudor-era objects. The article also traces how timepieces functioned as diplomatic gifts and personal tokens, including notable examples tied to Anne Boleyn and later monarchs. Overall, it frames early English horology as both technological progress and cultural storytelling driven by the court.

Complicated Collectors: Sir David Salomons

Sir David Salomons turned his Broomhill estate into a center for technical experimentation, applying his curiosity about electricity, machinery, and early motoring to a broader life of innovation. That same mindset eventually drew him into horology, where a pivotal Breguet purchase in 1915 sparked a systematic collecting mission. He documented his growing trove with unusual rigor, ultimately publishing a definitive catalogue covering 124 pieces and deepening scholarly understanding of Breguet craftsmanship. Although the collection was dispersed after his death, its impact endured through the research trail he created and the pieces that later returned to public view.

The Latest Time

Baltic

The Baltic Heures du Monde, an Accessible Take on The Worldtime

The Baltic Heures du Monde offers a wallet-friendly way to track a second time zone using a Swiss GMT movement and a transparent 24-hour disc rather than a traditional world-timer mechanism. It comes in a compact 37mm stainless steel case and adds visual personality with natural stone dial options like labradorite, tiger eye, or sodalite. Details like a ceramic city bezel, faceted hands, and 100m water resistance keep it practical for everyday wear and travel. Pricing is about $1,498 (leather strap) or $1,567 (steel bracelet).

Bell & Ross

Introducing: Bell & Ross BR-X3 Micro-Rotor—When the Case and Movement Become One

The BR-X3 Micro-Rotor pares back the earlier BR-X3 Tourbillon concept while keeping the same striking idea of using the case as the movement’s structural plate. Its 40mm steel case is paired with sapphire on both sides to fully reveal the semi-skeletonized, architecture-inspired movement. Inside is the automatic BR-CAL.390 with an in-plane micro-rotor that helps keep the watch slim at 9mm, while still delivering a 48-hour power reserve. It’s limited to 99 pieces and priced at $22,500.

Breguet

The Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7037

Breguet revives the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde with a 38mm white-gold case and a crisp blue-and-white look anchored by a white Grand Feu enamel dial with blue Breguet numerals. Power comes from the self-winding Caliber 505 SR (245 components, 50-hour reserve), and the design highlights technical touches like the brand’s pare-chute shock protection. A blue rubber strap with quick-release pins adds modern wearability to the historically rooted layout. Price is about $57,062.

Citizen

Citizen Released an Affordable Dive Watch With a Dial Unlike Anything Else

Citizen’s Promaster Dive BN0167-09W brings a limited-edition twist to its Eco-Drive diver lineup, led by a dial that shifts between deep blue, teal, and purple thanks to a structural ink finish. The 44mm steel case stays true to tool-watch expectations with a unidirectional bezel, strong lume, and ISO-rated 200m water resistance. It runs on the Eco-Drive Caliber E168, eliminating routine battery changes, and is positioned as a highly visual diver without a luxury price tag. Price is $495.

Ferdinand Berthoud

With Its Mesure du Temps 1787, Ferdinand Berthoud Puts New Mechanical Architecture on Full Display

The Chronomètre FB 2TV is a deeply technical statement piece built around a flying tourbillon and an openworked movement developed over six years and comprising 1,240 components. Beyond the visual drama, it incorporates serious chronometric engineering, including a fusée-and-chain constant-force mechanism and additional complications designed to reinforce precision. The 44mm 18k white-gold case frames an off-center time display and a suspended power-reserve indicator, giving the mechanics room to be appreciated in motion. Production is extremely limited at roughly 10–12 watches per year.

Fleming Watches

First Look: American Indie Brand Fleming Introduces the Update Series 1 Mark II

Fleming’s Series 1 Mark II doubles down on cohesive, light-driven dial design while offering two distinct personalities: the cool-toned tantalum “Pacific” and the warm 18k rose-gold “Redwood.” A new calibre (FM.02), developed with Jean‑François Mojon, helps keep the watch slim while delivering a substantial 168-hour power reserve. The 38.5mm case size and sector-style layout aim for refined versatility, while the limited production reinforces the brand’s collector appeal. Pricing is about $70,041 (Pacific) or $67,516 (Redwood).

Tissot

Reawakening The Gentleman In Us: The New Tissot Gentleman 38mm

The Tissot Gentleman 38mm shifts the line into a more compact, broadly wearable size while keeping the “do-it-all” brief intact. New dial colors and a pyramidal sunburst finish add visual depth without making the design feel flashy, reinforcing its dress-up/dress-down flexibility. Inside is the Powermatic 80, chosen for everyday reliability and extended autonomy. Price is about $916.

Wearing Time - Reviews

Gerald Charles

New and Reviewed: Gerald Charles Masterlink Perpetual Calendar :

Gerald Charles expands the Masterlink line with a perpetual calendar built around a form movement designed to follow the brand’s distinctive case shape. Despite the added complication, the watch stays impressively slim at roughly 10mm thick in a Grade 5 titanium case, and it’s paired with a well-integrated bracelet designed for comfort and visual continuity. The dial prioritizes legibility while adding visual interest, including a moonphase display that updates twice daily. Overall, it positions itself as a rare mix of sporty durability (including 100m water resistance) and haute-horology finishing in a segment with very little direct competition.

Gérald Genta

Blast from the Past: A History of the Gérald Genta Retro | WatchTime

The Gérald Genta Retro Sport is an unconventional complication-forward piece, using jump hours and retrograde minutes to deliver time in a way that feels more like mechanical theater than nostalgia. Its sporty 40mm case and carbon-fiber dial aim for everyday wearability, while the ETA 2892-A2 base brings dependable reliability to the more complex display system. Details like the blued hands and layered seconds ring add depth and polish, reinforcing that this is a design-led watch with real consideration behind the execution. The result is a distinctive expression of Genta’s creative legacy that stands apart from more predictable luxury sports watches.

Golden Concept

Golden Concept Royal Automatic Watch Review: The First Traditional Timepiece From An Apple Watch Case Maker

Golden Concept’s Royal Automatic marks the brand’s leap from luxury Apple Watch cases into traditional watchmaking, pairing an integrated-bracelet design with a Swiss Sellita SW200 automatic movement. The 40mm case and bracelet are made from 904L steel, and the watch emphasizes clean legibility with a restrained dial that lets the angular case architecture take center stage. A standout practical feature is the tool-less link adjustment system, which supports the everyday-wear pitch. As a limited run of 99 pieces, it’s positioned as a bold first effort—though its pricing places it in a very competitive segment.

Mandetbrote

Mandetbrote Orbital Watch Review

The Mandetbrote Orbital leans into playful engineering with a looping minute track and a central hand that follows it, creating a time display that feels both scientific and artistic. Its unconventional layout helped earn recognition in the GPHG Mechanical Exception category, and it’s designed to be intuitive once you learn the visual logic. The watch uses a modified Miyota 9015 automatic movement to keep the concept accessible, while offering practical specs like a 41mm case, 50m water resistance, and about a 42-hour power reserve. It’s presented as a distinctive, conversation-starting piece that delivers design impact without an unreachable price tier.

Nomos

Nomos Made Its Best Entry-Level Watch Even Better

Nomos updates the Club Campus with refinements that strengthen its case as an entry point into the brand and into higher-quality mechanical watches more broadly. The improvements focus on design and usability, keeping the watch versatile enough to move between casual and more polished settings while still feeling distinctly Nomos. The piece positions these changes as meaningful for newcomers, because they enhance day-to-day wear without pushing the watch out of its approachable lane. Overall, it frames the Club Campus as a carefully upgraded baseline that still reflects the brand’s minimalist heritage.

Editorial Time

Watchmakers must listen to retailers in Geneva

As demand cools, the piece argues that watch brands need to rebuild closer, more candid partnerships with retailers—especially during events like Watches and Wonders Geneva. It notes that these fairs historically enabled real feedback loops, helping manufacturers adjust production based on retailer insight, but that dynamic has shifted as brands lean more heavily on boutiques and direct-to-consumer data. The article emphasizes that retailer expertise is deeply regional and often built over generations, making it difficult for brands to replicate with analytics alone. The takeaway is that Geneva’s launch-day excitement should be balanced with substantive retailer dialogue so brands stay grounded in what the market is actually seeing.

Watching Time - Videos

Good, Just Got Great: The New Tissot Gentleman 38 Is Absolutely Brilliant - YouTube - Monochrome Watches

This video spotlights the new Tissot Gentleman 38 and frames it as a meaningful upgrade to an already-strong everyday watch. It focuses on what’s been improved, with attention to the design, finishing, and overall versatility for both casual and more formal wear. The presentation is geared toward helping watch enthusiasts understand why the 38mm sizing and updated details make it especially compelling.

Watch Now

10 Incredibly Niche Watches I Love (in 2026) - YouTube - Unpolished

This Tony Trainer video curates a list of lesser-known, highly specific watches that stand out for unusual design choices, distinctive craftsmanship, and the stories behind the brands. It’s aimed at enthusiasts who enjoy discovering pieces outside the mainstream, with commentary on what makes each selection memorable in a niche context. Overall, it serves as a guide and inspiration for collectors looking to expand beyond the obvious brands and models.

Watch Now

NOMOS BIG UPDATES: Shorter Lugs, New Colours. Club Campus in 5 minutes - YouTube - Britt Pearce

This quick update video runs through NOMOS changes to the Club Campus line, emphasizing shorter lugs for improved fit and a refreshed set of color options. It’s designed to be a fast, practical overview while still calling out the design impact of the tweaks. The concise format makes it easy to understand what’s new and why it matters for both current owners and potential buyers.

Watch Now

Classic, With A Modern Twist: The New Breguet Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7037 & 7038 - YouTube - Monochrome Watches

This video introduces the latest Breguet Tradition models and focuses on how they combine classic brand codes with a more contemporary, technical presentation. It highlights the core design and mechanical interest of the watches, including the retrograde seconds concept and the visible watchmaking elements that define the Tradition line. The segment also provides heritage context, positioning the new releases as both historically rooted and modern in execution.

Watch Now

These 6 Hottest New Watches Just Dropped! - YouTube - ONE Watches

This video presents six newly released watches and is structured as a rapid-fire look at what’s hot right now. The focus is on capturing what makes each piece stand out—whether it’s design, innovation, or market buzz—so viewers can stay current on new drops. It’s geared toward enthusiasts who want a quick, trend-forward overview of fresh releases.

Watch Now

Talking Time - Podcasts

Fratello On Air: Vintage Brands Worth Checking Out

In the latest episode of Fratello On Air, the hosts dig into underrated vintage watch brands that deserve more attention, especially for collectors who want to look beyond the usual heavy-hitters. They discuss why certain brands can offer strong design and build quality without the inflated pricing (and added risk) that comes with more famous names. The conversation highlights examples like Bulova for its history and accessible gems, plus overlooked Swiss-American and European brands that can be rich hunting grounds for distinctive vintage pieces.

Listen Now >

BuyingTime at Auction

A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com

[Tuesday’s auction watch, the 2023 Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar Platinum / Blue (5236P-001) - was bid to $63,000 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]

Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Compressor Extreme World Alarm Tides of Time 46.3 Rose Gold / Black / Arabic / Strap - Limited to 200 Pieces (Q1772470)

The Big, the Bold, and the Forgotten: JLC’s $35K Experiment That Time Almost Passed By

There was a moment in the mid-2000s when Jaeger-LeCoultre decided subtlety was overrated. The Master Compressor Extreme World Alarm Tides of Time Q1772470 is what happens when one of Switzerland’s most technically capable manufactures leans all the way into the “extreme” brief—larger, louder, more complicated, and frankly a bit unhinged in the best possible way.

At 46.3mm in rose gold, this is not a watch that slips under a cuff—it bulldozes it. Part of the broader Master Compressor Extreme family, the model was engineered during an era when brands were competing to prove durability and technical bravado. The architecture alone tells the story: a shock-resistant case construction designed to absorb impacts, essentially suspending the movement within a protective chassis. This wasn’t marketing fluff—these watches were built to withstand serious punishment, with engineering that could handle extreme G-forces.

And then there’s the complication stack, which is where things get interesting. This isn’t just a world timer. It’s a world timer with an alarm—an evolution of the brand’s long-standing Memovox lineage, one of the earliest mechanical alarm wristwatches dating back to 1951. The in-house automatic Caliber 912 powers a surprisingly useful combination: global timekeeping paired with an audible reminder, a feature that feels oddly practical for a watch that otherwise screams excess.

The “Tides of Time” designation—and the limited run of just 200 pieces—was Jaeger-LeCoultre flexing its ability to blend storytelling with complication. This wasn’t mass production; it was a statement piece aimed squarely at collectors who wanted something rare, oversized, and unapologetically technical. Even within the already niche Compressor Extreme line, this reference sits in the deep end.

Originally retailing around $35,000, the market has not been entirely kind—but not entirely dismissive either. Current examples suggest a wide range depending on condition and completeness, with listings and secondary market offerings clustering roughly between the high four figures and the high teens, with some examples approaching $20,000 for strong pieces. The lack of box and papers on this particular watch will matter—it always does in this segment—and likely keeps it from reaching the upper tier of that range.

Condition-wise, this example reads honestly. Pre-owned with minor wear on the case and bracelet, but excellent dial and crystal, which is where collectors tend to focus. The absence of accessories will ding it, but not fatally—this is a watch bought more for presence and mechanical intrigue than for pristine completeness.

The broader reality is that the Master Compressor Extreme line represents a very specific era in watchmaking—one that has since cooled. Today’s market leans smaller, more restrained, more vintage-inspired. This watch is the opposite of all of that. Which is exactly why it still has a pulse.

So where does it land? This is a collector’s piece, but a selective one. If you understand what Jaeger-LeCoultre was doing here—and appreciate the engineering insanity behind it—there’s real value. If you’re looking for subtlety, or resale certainty, this is not your watch.

The auction ends at 6:25 pm EDT today, April 1, 2026, and this feels like one of those pieces that either quietly slips through at a relative bargain or surprises everyone with a strong result from the right buyer who just gets it.

Current bid: $10,050

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BuyingTime Daily - March 31, 2026

Tue, 31 Mar 2026 10:15:53 GMT

Go to our Live News Site

Time Graphing today’s watch universe

The watch world is waking up this morning with a familiar feeling creeping back into the system—uncertainty—and it’s coming from well outside Switzerland. Ongoing instability in the Middle East is now clearly filtering into consumer psychology, with confidence readings slipping and inflation fears creeping higher again, particularly around energy costs. For a category that lives almost entirely in the realm of discretionary spending, that matters. You can already feel the hesitation at the edges of the market, where buyers are thinking twice and sellers are getting a little more motivated than they were even a few weeks ago.

Against that backdrop, the product machine rolls on, and in many ways it’s more interesting than ever. Vacheron Constantin is making a strong case for itself with the Overseas Chronograph “Panda,” a watch that manages to feel both familiar and quietly dominant in a crowded category. It’s one of those pieces that doesn’t need to shout because the movement inside—the in-house calibre 5200—does enough of the talking. Meanwhile, the broader collecting conversation is shifting toward what might politely be called “less obvious choices,” with independent makers and overlooked vintage references from the ’80s and ’90s starting to look a lot smarter than chasing whatever the algorithm decided was hot last year.

There’s also a renewed focus on what actually makes a watch “good,” and that brings certifications and quality seals back into the spotlight. Whether it’s COSC, Master Chronometer, or the increasingly esoteric regional hallmarks, the underlying theme is trust—something that becomes more valuable when prices are high and confidence is not. At the same time, real-world tool watches are quietly reminding everyone what functionality looks like, with a two-decade-old IWC Aquatimer 2000 proving that overbuilt still has a place in a market that sometimes leans too heavily on aesthetics.

And then there’s Rolex, which is approaching the 100-year anniversary of the Oyster case in 2026. If history is any guide, the brand won’t celebrate with fireworks but with something far more calculated—likely a product or narrative move that reinforces its dominance without appearing to try too hard. The Oyster case, after all, is less a feature and more a foundation for everything that came after.

Collectors themselves are also part of the story, with figures like Christian Bangert representing a quieter, more relationship-driven approach to collecting. The idea that a great collection is built on trust, collaboration, and personal meaning rather than hype cycles is gaining traction, especially as the market cools and the easy wins disappear.

On the new release front, the range is as wide as ever, from the playful to the borderline absurd to the deeply serious. Amida leans into nostalgia and space-age theatrics with its Digitrend NASA Edition, while Beda’a explores design minimalism through a 24-hour guichets display that feels almost architectural. Bianchet continues its technical flex with the Ultrafino Rotondo flying tourbillon, now in a round case that broadens its appeal without diluting its identity. Citizen quietly reminds everyone that precision and practicality still matter with its Eco-Drive anniversary piece, while David Candaux does the opposite, delivering an eight-piece run of high-concept, high-craft watchmaking that exists in its own rarified atmosphere.

Elsewhere, Ming refines its accessible luxury formula with a cosmic-themed update, Mr Jones Watches keeps things deliberately whimsical, and Zenith smartly expands its DEFY Skyline line into a more wearable 36mm format. Parmigiani Fleurier, as expected, splits the difference between sport and refinement with its Tonda PF Sport Chronograph, proving once again that subtlety is often the hardest thing to execute well.

On the review side, Omega is getting plenty of attention with the Constellation Observatory, a watch that manages to be both a nostalgic callback and a technical statement. The return of the pie-pan aesthetic is widely appreciated, but the omission of a seconds hand—and the watch’s overall thickness—has sparked debate about what “precision” should actually look like in 2026.

The editorial conversation is getting sharper too, with a growing argument that independent watchmakers and macroeconomic forces are reshaping the value hierarchy of the industry. The idea that brand power alone can sustain pricing is being tested, and not all of the traditional players are passing that test right now.

Looking ahead, events like Indies.NYC are doubling down on intimacy and direct engagement, reinforcing the idea that the future of collecting might look a lot more like conversation than commerce. That theme carries over into today’s videos, where a behind-the-scenes tour of Vacheron Constantin’s manufacture delivers a reminder of what high watchmaking actually involves, while more practical content—like best buys across different price tiers—caters to a more cautious, value-aware audience. Even the “I’m selling my watches” genre feels a bit more relevant at the moment, as the secondary market continues to adjust in real time.

And speaking of that market, the auction scene is starting to tell the truth a little more loudly. Monday’s Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph stalled at $34,000 without meeting reserve, which would have been unthinkable not that long ago. Today’s headliner, the 2023 Patek Philippe 5236P In-Line Perpetual Calendar, is a different kind of story—less about hype and more about whether the market has mispriced one of the more intellectually interesting watches of the past decade. Sitting at a current bid of $21,000 as it heads toward a 4:30 pm EDT close, it’s either a warning sign or an opportunity, depending on how you read the room.

Either way, the signal is getting clearer: the watch market isn’t collapsing, but it is recalibrating. And in a category built on precision, that might not be such a bad thing after all.

-Michael Wolf

News Time

Middle East Instability Raises Inflation Concerns

Ongoing instability in the Middle East is weighing heavily on consumer confidence, with economic sentiment and personal financial outlooks falling to record lows. The decline is especially pronounced among Boomers, who are feeling the impact of market volatility most acutely. Even with a modest uptick in retail spending, expectations for higher costs—particularly energy—are fueling renewed inflation fears. Economists warn that disruptions to trade routes could push up prices for key commodities like energy and fertilizer, making it harder for inflation to return to target levels.

Feature Time

Three Looks, One Mighty Manufacture Movement—The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chrono ‘Panda’ Makes Every Other Panda Obsolete

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph “Panda” stakes a strong claim in the crowded panda-dial chronograph category with a silver sunburst dial contrasted by black snailed subdials for crisp legibility. Its 42.5mm steel case mixes refined finishing with a subtle, motorsport-adjacent energy reminiscent of classic racing chronographs. Power comes from the fully in-house calibre 5200, underscoring the watch’s haute horlogerie credentials. A key advantage is versatility: an interchangeable strap system lets it shift quickly between steel bracelet, black rubber, and black calf leather.

The Under-the-Radar Watches Smart Collectors Are Buying Now

The piece spotlights the “under-the-radar” segment of watch collecting, where value and future upside can be found outside the most hyped names. Seasoned dealers point to growing interest in independent makers and select vintage references—especially pieces from the 1980s and 1990s—where craftsmanship and scarcity can outweigh current market noise. It also notes momentum behind smaller case sizes and more unconventional, design-forward picks, alongside renewed appreciation for heritage brands with deep back catalogs. Overall, it frames today’s savvy buying as a search for substance, originality, and long-term collectability rather than trend-chasing.

Guide to Watch Certifications and Quality Seals | WatchTime

This guide breaks down why certifications and seals matter in luxury watchmaking, starting with chronometer testing and how organizations like COSC validate accuracy through multi-day trials in varied conditions. It then moves into more demanding standards such as Master Chronometer certification, which layers on performance requirements like anti-magnetism. The story also explains the role of regional hallmarks—like the Geneva Seal and Fleurier Quality Foundation—in signaling both finishing quality and production standards. It rounds out the landscape by noting that some brands skip external certifications, instead relying on stringent in-house testing to communicate reliability and integrity.

Taking A 20-Year-Old IWC Aquatimer 2000 Into The Ocean

The article frames the IWC Aquatimer 2000 as a true tool watch, proven in real underwater use rather than desk-diving aesthetics. Its titanium build keeps it lightweight and corrosion-resistant, while a highly legible dial and a yellow minute hand make it easy to track time below the surface. A standout functional feature is the internal unidirectional bezel operated via a secondary crown, designed to prevent accidental rotation during dives. With an ETA 2892-based movement and an extreme 2000m depth rating, it’s presented as confidently overbuilt—and still wearable when you’re back on land.

The Oyster Case Turns 100 in 2026: Here’s How Rolex Might Celebrate

The story looks ahead to Rolex’s 2026 centenary of the Oyster case, the innovation that cemented the brand’s waterproof reputation and reshaped modern watchmaking expectations. It suggests Rolex may mark the milestone with a new product move, a special edition, or a broader brand storytelling moment rather than an overtly flashy celebration. One possibility raised is a traveling exhibition built around the Oyster’s history, including the famous Mercedes Gleitze English Channel swim that helped mythologize the case’s capabilities. The overall angle is that Rolex’s next step will likely blend heritage, marketing precision, and subtle product strategy.

Talking Watches: Christian Bangert, Collecting For The Love Of The Game

This profile highlights Christian Bangert’s collector mindset: relationships and conviction matter more than status or trend alignment. Much of the narrative centers on Bangert’s deep ties to independent watchmakers—especially Simon Brette—and how collaboration and trust can shape a collection’s identity. The piece also traces the breadth of the collection, spanning everything from recognizable classics to rare independent creations with personal backstories. Ultimately, it positions the most meaningful collections as those built around enthusiasm, community, and lived experiences rather than market heat.

The Latest Time

Amida

Amida Launches Its Digitrend NASA Edition Into The Space-Loving Watch Community

Amida’s Digitrend NASA Edition is a tightly limited run of 100 pieces designed as a tribute to the Space Shuttle Enterprise, with an aerodynamic case and a bold black-and-white look featuring the classic “worm” NASA logo. Its Light Reflecting Display mimics a cockpit-style readout and delivers a jump-hour presentation powered by a Swiss automatic movement. The strap mixes rubberized leather with Beta cloth—the same material associated with NASA spacesuits—to reinforce the spaceflight theme. Price: about $4,359 (from CHF 3,400).

Beda’a

Beda’a Releases the Angles Guichets with 24 Hour Display

Beda’a’s Angles Guichets replaces a traditional dial with a guichets-style aperture layout, pairing the format with a 24-hour display and day/night indication for a distinctive, design-led time read. The 37mm steel case is exceptionally slim at 6.3mm, with an alternate gold-plated version also available. Inside is a modified Peseux 7001-based movement adapted to make a full rotation over 24 hours while keeping a 42-hour power reserve. Price: about $2,308 (from CHF 1,800).

Bianchet

Bianchet Ultrafino Rotondo Flying Tourbillon

Bianchet’s Ultrafino Rotondo marks a major shift for the brand, moving from its signature tonneau forms to a round 39.5mm case while keeping the architectural, openworked identity intact. Despite being just 8.9mm thick, it’s engineered for real-world wear with 100m water resistance and claimed shock resistance up to 5000G. The in-house UR01 calibre features a one-minute flying tourbillon and a 60-hour power reserve, with an integrated bracelet and an included rubber strap for versatility. Price: about $80,119 (titanium, from CHF 62,500) or about $86,528 (carbon, from CHF 67,500).

Carl Suchy & Söhne

The Carl Suchy & Söhne Waltz No. 1 Hoffmann Edition Offers A Fresh Take On The Brand’s Signature Model

The Waltz No. 1 Hoffmann Edition reframes Carl Suchy & Söhne’s flagship with design cues inspired by architect Josef Hoffmann, highlighted by an open-worked dial with concentric-circle motifs. The minimalist approach keeps attention on the mechanics, including a skeletonized movement architecture with a micro-rotor and a 48-hour power reserve. While rooted in dress-watch DNA, this edition leans more casual in vibe without losing refinement, pairing a 41.5mm steel case with a black leather strap. Price: about $24,938 (from CHF 19,450).

Citizen

Citizen Marks 50 Years of Eco-Drive with Washi Dial Anniversary Edition

Citizen’s AQ4091-56W Washi Dial Anniversary Edition celebrates 50 years of Eco-Drive with a hand-dyed washi paper dial in a deep green tone created through a layered dyeing process. The watch blends traditional Japanese craft with modern specs, including a Super Titanium case, dual-sphere sapphire crystal, and the high-accuracy Eco-Drive calibre A060. Practical features include strong precision, a perpetual calendar, and 10-bar water resistance, positioning it as both commemorative and highly wearable. Price: $3,095.

David Candaux

David Candaux DC6 Night Forest :

The DC6 Night Forest is an ultra-exclusive release limited to eight pieces, combining a forged carbon case with natural titanium and a smoky topaz green dial for a distinctly modern, high-craft look. It keeps the same underlying movement architecture as prior DC6 models while introducing a new hour-and-minute sub-dial layout. A signature technical highlight is the 30° inclined flying tourbillon, paired with the brand’s “Magic Crown” concept and extensive hand finishing across titanium components. Price: about $317,911 (from CHF 248,000).

Dennison

This Dual Time Dress Watch Runs Two Quartz Movements Side by Side

The Dennison ALD Dual Time Shades takes an unusual approach by running two separate quartz movements side-by-side, giving each dial its own identity—Arabic numerals on one, Roman on the other. The polished rounded-square case stays extremely slim at 6mm, and the Pebble-Link bracelet echoes the case geometry for a cohesive, design-forward package. By omitting seconds hands, the watch doubles down on clean symmetry and the “two time zones, two personalities” concept. Price: $740 (leather strap) or $820 (Pebble-Link bracelet).

GoS Watches (Gustafsson & Sjögren)

GoS Winter Nights III

Winter Nights III is a 12-piece limited edition that showcases GoS’s distinctive Damascus steel work, using a stainless Damascus case with a bonded patina and accents in 18k Swedish gold. Each dial is forged by bladesmith Conny Persson in a “wildflower” Damascus pattern, making every example meaningfully unique. The movement—developed with Schwarz Etienne—delivers a substantial 86-hour power reserve, reinforcing the watch’s serious mechanical credentials beneath the artisanal exterior. Price: about $43,939 (from EUR 38,000, excluding VAT).

Ming

This Ultracool Brand’s Entry-Level Everyday Watch Gets a Space-Inspired Glow-Up

The Ming 37.08 Twilight leans into a space-inspired aesthetic with an aventurine dial that reads like a dense, starry sky, while keeping the brand’s clean, modern design language intact. It builds on the appeal of the earlier 37.08 Starlight, adding luminous details and a sporty-elegant balance intended for daily wear. Inside is a Sellita SW210.M1-based movement, and the watch is rated to 100m, giving it real versatility beyond its visual drama. Price: about $5,128 (from CHF 4,000).

Mr Jones Watches

Mr Jones Beam Me Up! Review: A Different Kind of Mechanical Watch

Beam Me Up! is built around playful storytelling, with a UFO “beam” indicating minutes while a pig marks the hours—turning time-telling into a small, repeatable moment of discovery. The colorful, textured dial art is matched with a more restrained 316L steel case to keep the overall watch wearable rather than costume-like. A display back reveals the Sellita SW200 automatic movement, and the Havana leather strap adds comfort and a touch of warmth against the bright dial. Price: $950.

Parmigiani Fleurier

Parmigiani Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Silver Verzasca

The Tonda PF Sport Chronograph “Silver Verzasca” presents a refined take on the luxury sports chronograph, pairing a 42mm steel case and knurled bezel with 100m water resistance for everyday durability. Its silvery guilloché dial is set off by Verzasca-green subdials, creating a color story that’s sporty but still unmistakably upscale. Power comes from the in-house PF070 automatic chronograph movement running at 5Hz, with a strong 65-hour power reserve. Price: about $37,348 (from EUR 32,300).

Semicolon

Celebrating The Spirit Of The 1920s With The Semicolon Anachron Jump-Hour Watch

The Semicolon Anachron channels 1920s-inspired design with a jump-hour display and an asymmetrical 38mm steel case, nodding to classics like the Tank à Guichets while adding surrealist touches reminiscent of melting-clock imagery. Time is shown via rotating discs with bold white numerals on black, supported by a Miyota movement to keep the concept accessible. Details like the “water level” indicator motif and an Einstein quote on the case back push the piece further into novelty-with-intent rather than simple retro pastiche. Price: $459 (early bird) or $699 (planned regular retail).

Zenith

Zenith DEFY Skyline 36

The DEFY Skyline 36 adapts Zenith’s modern sports-watch architecture for smaller wrists with a 36mm case and the brand’s four-pointed-star dial motif. It runs on the automatic Elite 670 calibre with a 50-hour power reserve, keeping the package straightforward and wearable. With 100m water resistance and the choice of a steel bracelet or rubber strap, it’s positioned as an everyday luxury sports watch rather than a delicate “small case” variant. Recent dial expansions—including a silver-toned option with or without diamonds—underscore how broadly Zenith intends the 36mm line to appeal.

Wearing Time - Reviews

Omega

Hands On: Omega Constellation Observatory

The Omega Constellation Observatory is positioned as a spiritual successor to the classic “Pie Pan” Constellation, bringing back heritage cues like a domed dial, observatory medallion, and distinctive “dog leg” lugs. It also introduces a new chapter for the Swatch Group with the debut of its Laboratoire de Précision and a new chronometer testing process. Notably, this is presented as the first Master Chronometer that displays only hours and minutes, emphasizing purity and precision-focused intent. The main critique is thickness—driven by the movement’s architecture from a more big-watch era—though the domed crystal helps the watch wear and look more refined than the measurements suggest.

Editorial Time

Macro economics and independent watchmakers are destroying values of centuries-old group-owned brands. Here’s how

The piece argues the watch industry is undergoing a structural reset, not just a normal downcycle, citing steep declines in Swiss watch exports and major contractions in key markets like China. A strong Swiss franc and high gold prices are squeezing margins, worsening the pressure on conglomerate-owned brands that are already struggling to stay profitable. In contrast, independent watchmakers are gaining ground by earning higher premiums through creative credibility and collector consensus, which is reshaping the perceived hierarchy of the market. The article frames this shift as a new “Veblen 2.0” valuation model—where provenance, production integrity, and community buy-in matter more than traditional brand authority.

Opinion Time

Omega Constellation Observatory: Critique & Analysis

The launch of Omega’s Constellation Observatory has prompted a split reaction: many collectors appreciate the return to the classic “pie-pan” dial aesthetic and its clear nod to 1950s design. At the same time, the absence of a seconds hand has been a sticking point, since it feels at odds with the model’s precision-focused positioning. The watch has also drawn criticism for its relatively tall case profile compared with traditional dress-watch proportions. Pricing—especially for gold versions—and the move away from independent COSC certification toward in-house testing have added to concerns about value and long-term confidence.

Event Time

Indies.NYC Announces 2026 Dates

Indies.NYC, the curated independent-watchmaking salon, is returning to New York City in 2026 with two events at Hudson Yards on May 4 and October 15. Founded by Belgian collector Jon Cruys, the gathering is intentionally intimate—capped at roughly 350 guests—to encourage real conversation between collectors and watchmakers rather than trade-show crowds. The May event is set to include 10 participating brands (including names like Andreas Strehler and Frédéric Jouvenot) and will add a panel discussion for the first time. The October date will align with New York Watch Week, with additional participating brands and programming to be announced, and registration is free.

Watching Time - Videos

A Once-in-a-Lifetime Tour of Vacheron Constantin Manufacture in Switzerland. History. Legacy. Style. - YouTube - Rob the American

This video offers an inside look at Vacheron Constantin’s manufacture in Switzerland, spotlighting the brand’s long history as well as the modern craft behind its watches. It walks through the making of high-end timepieces, emphasizing how much of the process is rooted in traditional technique and careful handwork. Along the way, it frames Vacheron’s identity as a balance of heritage and innovation, showing why the brand holds such status in haute horlogerie. Overall, it’s positioned as a rare, behind-the-scenes view that’s especially compelling for collectors and enthusiasts.

Watch Now

BEST Watches Under $1K, $3K & $5K – Best Value Picks (2026) - YouTube - Britt Pearce

This video is built around a practical buying guide format, curating watches that deliver strong value at three budget tiers: under $1,000, $3,000, and $5,000. It’s aimed at both newer buyers and seasoned enthusiasts who want quality options without jumping into luxury-price territory. Beyond the list itself, the framing suggests a focus on what makes each pick a standout—features, build quality, and overall competitiveness in its bracket. The result is meant to help viewers quickly narrow down good candidates in a crowded market.

Watch Now

I’m Selling My Watches. - YouTube - Andrew Morgan Watches | The Talking Hands

This video centers on Andrew Morgan Watches presenting a selection of watches being offered for sale, using the format of a personal, direct-to-audience rundown. The emphasis is on showcasing what’s available and encouraging viewers to follow the link for details, suggesting the video functions as both content and an announcement. It’s positioned for an audience that enjoys watch collecting and also tracks the secondary market through creator-led sales. Overall, it’s a straightforward “here’s what’s leaving the collection” style video with a clear call to action.

Watch Now

This Watch Collector Doesn’t Chase Hype — And It Shows - YouTube - Hodinkee

This video profiles a collector whose philosophy is explicitly anti-hype, focusing instead on personal taste and the individual stories behind each watch. It explores how collecting becomes more meaningful when it’s driven by authenticity rather than whatever the market is currently celebrating. The narrative highlights the collector’s criteria and motivations, emphasizing craftsmanship and connection over trend alignment. It ultimately serves as a reminder that the strongest collections often reflect values, patience, and self-knowledge more than popularity.

Watch Now

BuyingTime at Auction

A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com

[Monday’s auction watch, the 2024 Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Stainless Steel / Blue (5520V/210A-B148) - was bid to $34,000 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]

2023 Patek Philippe In-Line Perpetual Calendar Platinum / Blue

Auction Report: The Spreadsheet in Platinum: Patek Philippe’s 5236P In-Line Perpetual Calendar

There are complicated watches, and then there are watches that try to make complication look effortless. The 2023 Patek Philippe 5236P-001 falls squarely into the latter category—a watch that quietly flexes one of the most technically ambitious calendar displays Patek Philippe has ever attempted, while pretending it’s just another clean, legible daily wearer.

Introduced in 2021, the 5236P marked a genuine innovation for Patek Philippe, not something you can always say about a brand often accused—fairly or not—of iterating rather than reinventing. The defining feature is the in-line perpetual calendar display, where the day, date, and month are arranged in a single horizontal aperture at 12 o’clock. It sounds simple until you realize this required an entirely new movement architecture, the caliber 31-260 PS QL, built with over 500 components and engineered specifically to make that linear display possible.

And that’s really the point of this watch. Traditional perpetual calendars tend to look like a dashboard—subdials everywhere, information scattered like warning lights. The 5236P cleans all of that up into something that actually feels modern. It’s a perpetual calendar you can read without needing a manual or a magnifying glass, which is rarer than it should be at this level.

The 41.3mm platinum case gives it the appropriate heft—literally and figuratively—and the blue dial keeps things just interesting enough without drifting into Nautilus cosplay. Platinum, of course, remains the insider’s metal: heavier, subtler, and far less interested in announcing itself than gold. This is a watch for someone who knows exactly what it is and doesn’t need to explain it.

From a market standpoint, however, the story gets more interesting—and a bit less flattering. Retail sits around the $150K–$170K range depending on timing and market, but the secondary market tells a different story. Recent data shows these trading roughly in the $80K–$100K range, often significantly below retail, which is unusual (and a bit uncomfortable) territory for a modern Patek Philippe Grand Complication. This isn’t because the watch isn’t good—it’s because the market doesn’t quite know what to do with it. It’s too cerebral to hype, too new to be vintage, and too understated to scream status.

That creates opportunity.

The example here checks the right boxes: a 2023 production piece with box, papers, additional caseback, and setting pin, which matters more than usual for a watch this technical. Condition is exactly where you’d expect—light wear on the case and bracelet, excellent dial and crystal—which means it presents well without pretending to be something it isn’t.

As this auction closes at 4:30 pm EDT today, Tuesday, March 31, 2026. The real question isn’t whether the 5236P is “worth it” in some abstract sense. It’s whether the market has overcorrected on a watch that, from a watchmaking standpoint, is one of the more intellectually satisfying Pateks released in the past decade.

If you’re buying for hype, there are easier ways to impress people. If you’re buying for substance, this might be one of the more quietly compelling Grand Complications currently trading at a relative discount.

And in a market full of noise, sometimes the cleanest display on the dial ends up being the clearest signal of all.

Current bid: $21,000

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BuyingTime Daily - March 30, 2026

Mon, 30 Mar 2026 10:15:43 GMT

Go to our Live News Site

Time Graphing today’s watch universe

Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe for March 30, 2026 reads like a market that’s finally exhaling after holding its breath a little too long. The big story hanging over everything is the softening of luxury watch demand as the economic ripple effects of the Iran conflict start to bite. Rising gas prices, stubbornly high mortgage rates, and declining consumer confidence are doing what no amount of hype ever could—reminding buyers that a $40,000 watch is, in fact, optional. The secondary market is reflecting that shift in real time, with more inventory sitting and more auctions failing to clear reserves. For brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Omega, the question isn’t whether demand exists—it’s how much of it was artificially inflated by the “everything only goes up” era that now appears to be fading.

At the very top of the market, though, gravity still seems optional. A 1953 Patek Philippe world time with a unique South America dial heading to the Philipps Geneva Watch Auction: XXIII with an estimate up to $10 million is a reminder that true rarity operates on a completely different economic plane. While the middle of the market wobbles, trophy pieces continue to function as cultural and financial artifacts, and this one—one of just two known examples—feels like exactly the kind of watch that will attract global attention regardless of macro headwinds.

On the independent side, the influence of Kari Voutilainen continues to loom large, even as he steps back from day-to-day operations. His approach—prioritizing craft, direct relationships with collectors, and small-scale production—looks increasingly prescient in a market that’s rediscovering the value of authenticity over volume. That same spirit carries into more experimental territory, like Artisans de Genève pushing boundaries with a turquoise-dial Rolex Daytona built from Arizona stone, or Maison Alcée turning a clock into a participatory experience with its hands-on moon-phase module.

The historical lens this week comes via Junghans, whose arc from 19th-century component maker to early 20th-century industrial giant—and later quartz innovator—feels like a reminder that reinvention is not optional in this business. That idea echoes in the cultural crossover piece where a Rolex is traded for a Nakashima chair, reinforcing a subtle but growing narrative: the definition of “luxury” is shifting from status signaling to something closer to permanence and meaning.

New releases continue to lean heavily into individuality and technical storytelling. Felipe Pikullik debuts its first in-house calibre with a poetic aventurine dial, while Holthinrichs doubles down on 3D-printed titanium cases that look intentionally unfinished in all the right ways. Moritz Grossmann reminds everyone what traditional finishing still looks like at the highest level, and Singer Reimagined continues its design-forward run with a titanium Caballero that pairs restraint with a six-day power reserve. Meanwhile, Timex quietly plays the other end of the spectrum with a $149 Tank-adjacent reissue that will probably sell far more units than anything else mentioned today.

On the review front, the watches getting hands-on attention reflect a wide spectrum of what enthusiasts are actually considering right now. Brellum leans into complication-heavy value with its triple calendar moonphase, REC Watches matures its automotive storytelling with a more refined chronograph, and Sartory-Billard continues to prove that customization is becoming a category of its own. Even Titan enters the enthusiast conversation with a wandering hours piece that feels genuinely different, if not entirely polished.

The comparison space remains as lively as ever, with alternatives to the Rolex Explorer gaining traction from brands like IWC, Tudor, and Nomos, while head-to-head matchups like Tudor versus Seiko show how tightly competitive the mid-to-upper tier has become.

Looking ahead, Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026 is shaping up to be a massive moment, with 66 brands and a full week of satellite events turning Geneva into the center of the watch universe yet again. The tone going into the show, however, feels different this year—less euphoric, more analytical—as brands and collectors alike try to gauge where the market actually stands.

The video lineup reinforces that mood, with everything from deep dives into experimental mechanics to increasingly blunt conversations about whether the Rolex hype cycle can last forever. There’s a noticeable shift toward questioning assumptions rather than reinforcing them, which is usually what happens right before a market finds its next equilibrium.

And finally, in the “BuyingTime at Auction” corner, reality checks continue. The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph failing to meet reserve at $40,000 is exactly the kind of data point that confirms the broader narrative, while today’s featured Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph sits in that increasingly attractive zone of “high-end, but not overheated.” In a cooling market, that might be the smartest place to be.

–Michael Wolf

News Time

Luxury Watch Sales Falter as Iran War Ripples Through Global Economy

Luxury watch demand is weakening as economic fallout tied to the Iran conflict pressures discretionary spending. Higher gas prices, elevated mortgage rates, and declining consumer confidence are reducing appetite for high-end timepieces, which many buyers now treat as non-essential. The secondary market is also cooling, with more listings going unsold as supply rises and bids come in below expectations. The result is a fast-moving correction after the recent boom, driven by shifting psychology and a reversal of the “wealth effect.”

$10 million Patek Philippe appears at auction

A rare 1953 Patek Philippe world time watch with a unique South America dial is headed to the Philipps Geneva Watch Auction: XXIII, carrying an estimate of CHF 5,000,000 to CHF 10,000,000. It’s reportedly one of only two known examples in yellow gold, making its reappearance at auction a major moment for collectors. The May 9–10 sale is positioned as a marquee event with an unusually strong lineup of modern and historic watches. Other highlighted lots include rare Rolex cloisonné pieces and standout independents, underscoring the depth of the catalog.

Feature Time

Kari Voutilainen’s influence over independent watchmaking

Kari Voutilainen is widely respected for safeguarding traditional watchmaking craft and keeping rare artisanal skills alive through his Fleurier-based atelier. With Angélique Singele now serving as CEO, Voutilainen has stepped back from day-to-day operations to focus more on making watches and spending time with clients. The workshop has expanded in both space and capability, including highly specialized work like engine turning. He also prioritizes direct relationships with collectors by selling primarily to clients rather than through retailers, reinforcing a tight community around the brand.

Experience: Artisans de Genève ‘Spider Challenge’—Arizona Spiderweb Turquoise the Key Component

Artisans de Genève transformed a Rolex Cosmograph Daytona ref. 116520 with a one-off dial made from Spiderweb Turquoise sourced from Arizona’s Kingman mine. The team even traveled to extract a large block of turquoise, then selected a section with striking veining so the final dial would be visually unique and impossible to duplicate. The build pairs the dial with a deep brown ceramic bezel, a reshaped case profile with crown guards removed, and a skeletonized Rolex Calibre 4130 that contrasts with the vivid stone. Priced at CHF 39,520 (about USD 49,500), it’s positioned as a collector-grade fusion of geology, craft, and modern customization.

The Maison Alcée Persée Moon Phase

Maison Alcée has released a moon-phase module for its Persée clock, answering long-running requests since the clock’s debut. The add-on is designed to work on all Persée versions and to function whether the clock is displayed vertically or horizontally, which adds meaningful engineering complexity. Owners assemble the kit themselves, partially disassembling the original clock and integrating an 18-piece module that tracks the 29.5-day lunar cycle and can be adjusted by hand. The handcrafted moons and refined finishing details reinforce the brand’s hands-on philosophy, with pricing set at $2,100 (excluding VAT).

A History and Guide to Junghans

Junghans began in 1861 as a maker of watch components before evolving into a full watch manufacturer and eventually becoming the world’s largest watch factory by the early 1900s. The brand’s growth included key milestones like the adoption of wristwatches in the 1920s, followed by major disruptions during World War II when production shifted to wartime needs. In the postwar era, Junghans pushed innovation with Germany’s first quartz watch and high-profile timing work such as the 1972 Munich Olympics. After a period of decline and ownership changes, the company stabilized under new leadership and continues today with design-forward collections like Max Bill that reflect its German heritage.

I Sold My Rolex to Buy a Chair, and It Was the Right Choice | GQ

Nick Remsen describes selling a Rolex to purchase a handcrafted Nakashima Lounge chair, framing it as a shift from flashy luxury toward lasting, meaningful craftsmanship. The chair’s heritage, design integrity, and durability resonate with a desire to own fewer but better objects that feel connected to real materials and makers. During a visit to Nakashima Studios, Remsen learns more about the studio’s commitment to handwork, careful wood sourcing, and the individuality embedded in each piece. The experience reinforces a broader reevaluation of value—favoring substance, story, and permanence over conventional status symbols.

The 7 Best Watches of the Week, From Michael Jordan’s Greubel Forsey to Steve Carell’s Rolex

This roundup highlights notable celebrity watch sightings, pairing each wearer with a distinctive, high-end timepiece and the story behind the moment. Michael Jordan is featured wearing a rare Greubel Forsey reportedly worth around $500,000 while celebrating a racing win, while Charles Leclerc appears with a dramatic Richard Mille at Monaco’s Rose Ball. The list also includes familiar icons like Steve Carell’s Rolex Daytona and Kevin Hart’s Patek Philippe Nautilus, underscoring how enduring models remain central to pop-culture watch conversation. More niche picks—like a Snoopy Omega Speedmaster and an H. Moser cylindrical tourbillon skeleton—add variety and emphasize the continued crossover between horology, style, and celebrity.

Good To Go: Are You and Your Watches Ready to Roll in Case of an Emergency?

The piece argues that emergency preparedness should include a plan for safeguarding watches, especially for collectors who may need to evacuate quickly during disasters like wildfires or floods. It recommends maintaining documentation, appraisals, and insurance details in secure online storage so crucial records remain accessible under stress. The article also notes that the secondary risk isn’t just loss, but the difficulty of proving ownership and value without organized paperwork. Finally, it suggests choosing a rugged, dependable watch for emergencies—favoring durable tool models built to handle extreme conditions over delicate or highly valuable pieces.

Jérôme Lambert, CEO of Jaeger-LeCoultre | INTERVIEW

Jérôme Lambert reflects on returning to Jaeger-LeCoultre and balancing the demands of leadership with the long-term responsibility of preserving watchmaking craft. He emphasizes safeguarding skills through mentorship and knowledge transfer, viewing the human side of the manufacture as essential to quality and continuity. Lambert also discusses projects that extend beyond conventional horology, aiming to build community and shared experiences around the brand. Addressing industry rumors and external pressures with calm pragmatism, he frames resilience and steady development as key measures of success.

Slimming Things Down Part I - Five of Today’s Best Ultra-Thin Watches

Ultra-thin watchmaking is presented as a demanding discipline where technical constraints force inventive architecture and meticulous finishing. The article surveys five standout modern pieces, including the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Black DLC for its everyday-wear practicality at an exceptionally slim profile. It also highlights balanced, classically styled options such as the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra-Thin Date and a highly complicated yet compact Vacheron Constantin perpetual calendar. More expressive executions, like the Daniel Roth Extra-Plat Rose Gold Skeleton, show how thinness can enable visual drama through openworking. The selection culminates with boundary-pushing design thinking in the Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept Tourbillon, which integrates movement and case to achieve extreme thinness.

How Do You Like Your Rotor — Central, Micro, Or Peripheral? And What About A Hammer?

The article breaks down the main automatic winding rotor styles—central, micro, and peripheral—explaining the tradeoffs between efficiency, thickness, and visual access to the movement. Central rotors are described as the most proven and effective solution, while micro-rotors appeal for their slimmer build and unobstructed movement views, albeit with added complexity. Peripheral rotors aim to combine strong winding performance with an open display, but typically come with higher cost and more specialized engineering. The discussion then widens to unconventional systems like hammer winding, showcasing how brands pursue distinct mechanical solutions for improved winding behavior. It concludes with a clear preference for micro-rotors based on their blend of elegance, thinness, and engaging mechanics.

The Latest Time

Felipe Pikullik

The New Felipe Pikullik Sternenhimmel FPA1

Felipe Pikullik’s Sternenhimmel FPA1 is a major step forward for the Berlin atelier, introducing its first proprietary calibre platform. The 39mm steel watch pairs an aventurine dial (blue or green) with a 6 o’clock aperture revealing the balance wheel and a retrograde date display. Inside, the new FPA1 calibre runs at 18,000 vph with a 46-hour power reserve and features details like a hand-crafted balance wheel and wolf’s-tooth gearing for smoother transmission. The watch is priced at about $20,199 (converted from EUR 17,500) and comes with two strap options, with production kept low due to the small workshop.

Holthinrichs

Holthinrichs Presents the Signature LAB Series 1 Small Seconds and GMT

Holthinrichs marks a decade of work with two limited editions: the Signature LAB Series 1 Small Seconds and GMT, each capped at 100 pieces. Both use a distinctive 3D-printed titanium case (38.5mm by 9.85mm) with deliberately raw textures balanced by hand-finished details and copper-oxide patina dials. The Small Seconds model is powered by a Sellita SW360 and is priced around $6,810 (converted from EUR 5,900), while the GMT uses a Sellita SW330 and is priced around $7,502 (converted from EUR 6,500), both excluding VAT. Deliveries are expected in Q3 2026.

Moritz Grossmann

Moritz Grossmann Hamatic Silver-Plated by Friction

Moritz Grossmann’s Hamatic Silver-Plated by Friction is a white-gold, 41mm limited edition celebrating the 200th anniversary of founder Karl Moritz Grossmann, and it spotlights the brand’s hammer-style automatic winding system. The dial uses a traditional silver-plating technique that creates a fine-grained texture, paired here with Arabic numerals for a slightly different character than earlier versions. It runs on the calibre 106.0 with about 72 hours of power reserve, with finishing touches like untreated German silver components and hand engraving aimed squarely at collectors. Limited to 18 pieces, it’s priced at about $84,834 (converted from EUR 73,500).

Singer Reimagined

The Singer Reimagined Caballero, Now Reimagined In Titanium

Singer Reimagined updates the Caballero with a Grade 5 titanium case, keeping the cushion-case identity while adding new colorways (Avio Blue Velvet and Cocoa Brown Velvet). The design stays focused on a clean three-hand layout, but with refined details like a fluted ring and visible synthetic ruby jewels that tie the exterior styling back to the mechanics. Power comes from Singer’s in-house Calibre-4 Solotempo, delivering an attention-grabbing six-day power reserve. The new titanium version is priced at about $23,845 (converted from CHF 18,500) and is slated to be available in May.

Strehler (Andreas Strehler)

Strehler Säntis Worldtimer

The Strehler Säntis Worldtimer brings a Cottier-style world-time display into a sleek, user-friendly format controlled entirely by a single crown. It features a titanium dial with a proprietary pattern and is backed by a fully in-house movement and components, positioning it as “accessible” independent watchmaking without losing artisanal credibility. The watch is made in medical-grade stainless steel and offers a 60-hour power reserve, with production constrained to roughly 30–50 pieces per year due to the handwork involved. It retails for about $31,928 (converted from CHF 24,750).

Timex

Timex’s New Affordable Dress Watch Borrows Its Best Ideas from the Cartier Tank

Timex’s 1976 Lexington Reissue is a $149 rectangular dress watch that nods strongly to the Cartier Tank while pointing to an archival Timex design lineage. With a compact 21mm by 35mm footprint and a slim 8mm thickness, it leans into vintage proportions with a polished gold-tone case and a silver dial featuring elongated Roman numerals. A raised mineral crystal and black crocodile-pattern leather strap reinforce the throwback feel, aiming to deliver “Tank energy” at an entry-level price. The bigger question, as framed here, is how well the finish will hold up in everyday wear.

Wearing Time - Reviews

Brellum

Hands-On: The Ice-Blue Brellum Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase

Brellum’s Duobox Triple Calendar Moonphase pairs a standout ice-blue sunray dial with a substantial case (41.8mm by 51.8mm, 15.9mm thick) offered in steel or titanium. It combines a triple calendar with moonphase and running seconds, aiming for a complication-forward look that still feels wearable day to day, helped by 100m water resistance. Power comes from the COSC-certified Brellum BR-751 automatic (Valjoux 7751-based) with a 46-hour power reserve, reinforcing the watch’s practical-meets-dressy positioning. Production is capped at 33 pieces, making it an intentionally scarce proposition for collectors drawn to the color and feature set.

REC Watches

The Limited-Edition REC 98T/4 Watch Brings The Brand To A Mature New Era

REC’s 98T/4 signals a step up in refinement, using design cues and reclaimed material tied to Ayrton Senna’s 1986 Lotus 98T F1 car while keeping the dial layout clean and usable. The stainless-steel case is built to feel more premium, including details like a domed sapphire caseback and 100m water resistance for everyday confidence. Inside is a Swiss-made automatic chronograph movement with a 62-hour power reserve, with finishing that echoes the Lotus-inspired theme. Limited to 989 pieces and priced at $4,195, it’s positioned as a more grown-up, enthusiast-facing blend of motorsport heritage and modern watchmaking.

Sartory Billard

Sartory-Billard SB04-E Hands-On: Getting Creative With A ‘Skin Tone’ Stone Dial And A Steel Bracelet

Sartory-Billard’s SB04-E leans into bespoke creativity, with this configuration using a pink aventurine stone dial to evoke a “skin tone” concept while keeping the overall look crisp and contemporary. The 39.5mm polished steel case and flat, AR-coated sapphire crystal aim for a modern, wearable profile that frames the dial material as the main event. It runs on the Swiss automatic La Joux-Perret G101 with a 68-hour power reserve, underscoring the brand’s focus on personalization without sacrificing mechanical credibility. Pricing is quoted at $5,800 on leather or $6,150 with the steel bracelet, reflecting the modular, build-your-own approach.

Titan Watches

Titan Stellar Wandering Hour Automatic Review: An Enthusiast Timepiece From India’s Biggest Watchmaker

Titan’s Stellar Wandering Hour Automatic is a limited run (500 pieces) designed to turn heads with a wandering hours display and a highly textured, modern dial aesthetic. The 42mm case is made from crystallized titanium, pairing an unusual material story with an in-house movement running at 4Hz and delivering a 40-hour power reserve. While the review notes a few design and performance rough edges—such as the asymmetrical handset and a stated accuracy range of -10 to +30 seconds/day—the watch is framed as genuinely inventive and conversation-starting. At roughly 179,995 INR (about $1,950), it’s positioned as an enthusiast-forward statement piece from a brand not always associated with niche mechanical creativity.

Comparing Time

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Explorer Alternatives In 2026

Fratello rounds up five strong alternatives to the Rolex Explorer, spanning different styles and budgets while keeping the same go-anywhere spirit. Highlights include the IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX for a more aviation-leaning take, the Tudor Ranger for the closest visual kinship to the classic Explorer, and the Omega Railmaster for a more technical, anti-magnetic tool-watch vibe. The list also spotlights the Nomos Club Sport Neomatik for a more modern, colorful approach and closes with the Christopher Ward C65 Dune Aeolian as a value-forward option with vintage charm.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” Vs. Seiko Prospex Marinemaster HBF001

This head-to-head compares two heavy-hitting divers—the Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome” and the Seiko Prospex Marinemaster HBF001—now priced close enough to make the choice more nuanced. The Tudor case is made for daily wear with a refined feel and is bolstered by Master Chronometer certification and strong accuracy, appealing to those who prioritize precision and polish. The Seiko counters with more hardcore diving credentials, including 300m water resistance, a ceramic bezel, and standout luminosity, leaning into rugged capability and heritage. The debate ultimately comes down to whether the Tudor’s elevated finishing and chronometric edge outweigh the Seiko’s tougher spec sheet and tool-watch character.

Watches and Wonders 2026

Your Complete Guide to Watches and Wonders 2026

Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026 runs April 14–20 at Palexpo, expanding to 66 exhibiting brands that include major names like Rolex and Patek Philippe, along with returning participants such as Audemars Piguet and ten new brands. The show broadens access with public days scheduled for April 18–20, complemented by cultural programming and satellite happenings across Geneva. Beyond the main fair, independent-focused events like Time to Watches (Villa Sarasin) and Chronopolis (Les Halles de l’Ile) add more opportunities to see smaller makers and new releases. Several additional showcases and brand presentations around the city—especially around Hotel Beaurivage and downtown pop-ups—turn the week into a full-scale watch festival.

Event Time

Tudor Collectors Event at Time+Tide Discovery Studio London

Time+Tide’s London Discovery Studio hosted a Tudor collectors’ night that turned the Tudor Library & Lounge into a community-led showcase, drawing roughly 115 attendees. Instead of a standard brand display, cabinets were filled with collectors’ own watches, creating an interactive mix of vintage and modern Tudor references side by side. The format encouraged storytelling and conversation as attendees compared pieces and swapped personal connections to the brand. The evening wrapped with a live podcast recording that captured the energy of a room built around enthusiast participation.

Deal Time

Bring a Loupe: An Omega Grand Luxe, A Very Tropical Zenith El Primero A384, And More

This installment of Hodinkee’s “Bring a Loupe” rounds up notable watch listings and auction pieces, using the end-of-March market activity as a backdrop for what’s trading hands and what’s coming up next. It spotlights a mix of higher-end and collectible references, including pieces from Omega, Zenith, and Patek Philippe, with context on what makes each compelling to collectors. The write-up also previews upcoming auctions—from large themed groupings like Swatch collections to more traditionally “serious” vintage lots—capturing the breadth of what’s driving interest right now. Along the way, it adds historical and mechanical perspective to help readers understand why certain watches (even those needing restoration) remain desirable.

eBay Finds: A Gorgeous Vintage Hamilton, Some Weird Digital Watches, Plus a Few Killer Chronographs

Worn & Wound’s eBay Finds compiles a varied batch of vintage picks, anchored by a notably clean 1968 Omega Seamaster chronograph powered by the calibre 861. The selection leans into contrast—pairing classic mechanical dress and sport pieces like a Hamilton Thin-O-Matic with offbeat digital oddities such as a Dot Matrix Seiko and a Jules Jurgensen LCD. Several chronographs round out the list, including tool-forward options like the Croton Chronomaster with a Valjoux 7733, giving the column its usual mix of charm and functionality. Overall, it’s positioned as a browseable set of listings that highlight both serious collecting angles and fun, left-field watches worth a closer look.

Watching Time - Videos

How does it work? The Sympathique Clock of the Louis Vuitton x De Bethune Louis Varius Project - YouTube - Monochrome Watches

This video walks through the mechanics and design logic behind the Sympathique Clock created for the Louis Vuitton x De Bethune Louis Varius collaboration. It highlights how the piece blends traditional craft with modern technical solutions, framing the clock as both a functional object and a design statement. The focus is on what makes the mechanism distinctive and how those choices support the overall aesthetic. The result is presented as a showcase of high-level horological creativity and execution.

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Watches & Wonders 2026: What Nobody’s Saying - Rolex, OMEGA, Tudor - YouTube - Britt Pearce

This video offers commentary on Watches & Wonders 2026 with an emphasis on the subtext—what’s being overlooked or under-discussed about releases from Rolex, OMEGA, and Tudor. It frames the fair through trends, positioning, and brand narratives that may not be obvious in standard launch coverage. The discussion also touches on how design choices and pricing strategy shape perception in the current market. Overall, it’s meant to help viewers read between the lines of the show’s headline announcements.

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Will The Rolex Hype Die Anytime Soon? Q&A - YouTube - Menta Watches

In this Q&A-style video, the host explores why Rolex demand remains intense and what forces continue to sustain it. The conversation points to brand prestige, perceived scarcity, and collector behavior as key drivers of the hype cycle. It also considers how broader market shifts and sentiment changes could impact pricing and desirability over time. The takeaway is a framework for thinking about whether the Rolex phenomenon is durable or vulnerable to correction.

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Trilobe: A Completely Different Way of Making Watches - YouTube - Revolution Watch

This video introduces Trilobe’s unconventional approach to watchmaking, positioning the brand as an alternative to traditional time display and design language. It emphasizes how Trilobe treats the watch as an artistic object as much as a utility, with each element designed to reinforce that perspective. Viewers get a closer look at the thinking behind the mechanics and the visual architecture of the watches. The overall message is that Trilobe is trying to reshape what “telling time” can look and feel like.

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Why Iconic watches aren’t always worth Buying - YouTube - This Watch, That Watch

This video argues that the label “iconic” doesn’t automatically mean a watch is the right buy for every collector. It discusses how hype, brand storytelling, and shifting resale dynamics can distort value and lead to purchases that don’t align with a buyer’s real priorities. It also highlights practical considerations—wearability, durability, and lifestyle fit—that can matter more than status. The end goal is to encourage more intentional buying decisions rather than defaulting to the most famous names.

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The DEATH of Rolex - YouTube - Luxury Secret

This video examines the idea that Rolex’s dominance could be challenged, looking at changing tastes, market saturation, and the pressures of a more innovation-driven luxury landscape. It raises questions about whether traditional prestige alone can keep a brand on top as consumers seek more differentiation and personalization. The analysis frames Rolex as a case study for how even the strongest brands must evolve to stay culturally and commercially relevant. It’s less a literal obituary and more a provocative look at long-term brand risk.

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Longines Just Made Rolex Fanboys CRY - YouTube - The Time Teller

This video covers a new Longines release that the creator believes disrupts expectations in a space often dominated by Rolex comparisons. It highlights the design and feature decisions that make the watch feel like a challenge to Rolex’s usual gravitational pull in enthusiast culture. A big part of the discussion is the emotional response—how brand loyalty and online discourse flare up when a competitor lands a strong product. The episode ultimately uses the release as a window into rivalry dynamics in the luxury watch community.

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The NEW Holy Trinity... Who Makes The Cut? | Four Married Men Podcast - YouTube

This podcast episode debates the idea of a “new Holy Trinity,” focusing on what standards or criteria should define an elite top tier and which candidates deserve inclusion. The discussion is driven by differing viewpoints, with the hosts weighing personal preferences against broader cultural assumptions about what “belongs” at the top. It’s structured as an open-ended argument rather than a definitive ranking, inviting listeners to challenge their own definitions. The result is a conversation designed to be more provocative and reflective than purely informational.

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BuyingTime at Auction

A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com

[Thursday’s auction watch, the 2022 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 41 / Blue (26240ST.OO.1320ST.01) - was bid to $40,000 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]

2024 Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Stainless Steel / Blue (5520V/210A-B148)

Blue Chip, Blue Dial, Blue-Chip Money: The Overseas Chronograph That Quietly Wins

There are certain watches that scream for attention, and then there are watches like the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph 5520V/210A-B148 that don’t bother raising their voice because they already know they’re in the room. This is one of those pieces that lives comfortably in the shadow of louder, more hyped competitors, all while doing just about everything better than it has any right to.

The Overseas line itself dates back to the mid-1990s as Vacheron Constantin’s answer to the luxury sports watch category—yes, that category dominated by Gerald Genta’s greatest hits. But the modern iteration of the Overseas, particularly since its major overhaul in 2016, is where things get serious. That’s when the brand leaned fully into integrated sports watch territory with improved ergonomics, a cleaner design language, and—importantly—a proper in-house chronograph movement. The caliber 5200 inside this watch is a column-wheel chronograph with a vertical clutch, the kind of specification sheet that quietly tells you this is not just another pretty blue dial.

And that dial, of course, is the whole show. The translucent lacquered blue has just enough depth to remind you why blue dials became a cliché in the first place—because when done right, they work. Here, it plays against the steel case and bracelet with that signature Maltese cross-inspired design, giving the watch a level of finishing that often gets whispered about in collector circles but rarely shouted. That’s fine. The people who know, know.

From a practical standpoint, this is one of the most wearable high-end chronographs on the market. At 42.5mm, it sits with presence but not arrogance, and the quick-change strap system—steel, rubber, leather—is one of the best in the business. It’s the rare watch that can move from boardroom to beach without looking like it’s trying too hard. And unlike some of its more famous rivals, it doesn’t feel like you’re wearing a logo first and a watch second.

Now let’s talk about the money, because that’s why we’re all here. Retail on this model hovers just under $40,000, and the secondary market has been relatively stable, with most examples trading between roughly $37,000 and $45,000 depending on condition and completeness. That’s a fairly tight band for a watch at this level, which tells you two things: one, demand is steady; and two, you’re not buying into the kind of speculative madness that has plagued other segments of the market.

This particular example, with box, papers, folio, literature, and extra straps, checks every box that matters. The condition reads exactly how you’d expect from a lightly worn modern piece—excellent dial and crystal, minor hairlines on the case and bezel, and a bracelet that has seen just enough wrist time to remind you it’s not a safe queen. In other words, it’s honest. And in today’s market, honesty counts.

The auction closing at 6:20 pm EDT on Monday, March 30, 2026, feels like a moment where discipline will matter. This isn’t a watch you steal, and it’s not one you wildly overpay for either. The sweet spot is right where the market has been sitting—mid to high $30s—and if it lands there, it’s exactly what this watch has always been: a smart buy for someone who values substance over noise.

Because that’s really the story here. The Overseas Chronograph is the watch you buy when you’ve looked at everything else, rolled your eyes a little, and decided you’d rather own something better instead of something louder. And in a market that increasingly feels like a volume contest, that might be the most contrarian—and correct—move of all.

Current bid: $27,000

See it Now on Bezel >

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BuyingTime Daily - March 27, 2026

Fri, 27 Mar 2026 10:15:52 GMT

Go to our Live News Site

Time Graphing today’s watch universe

The watch world continues to thread an interesting needle—balancing ambition, exclusivity, and just enough disruption to keep things from feeling too predictable. Case in point: H. Moser & Cie is openly doubling down on a strategy that feels almost contrarian in today’s volume-chasing environment. CEO Edouard Meylan is making it clear that margin discipline—not unit growth—is the priority, even as the brand eyes expansion with a new factory and broader production capabilities. In a market where many are quietly discounting or overproducing, Moser’s insistence on scarcity and pricing power reads less like caution and more like a long-term bet on brand equity.

Meanwhile, Richard Mille is doing what Richard Mille does best—finding high-performance human machines to match its mechanical ones. The brand’s new partnership with undefeated UFC champion Ilia Topuria brings combat sports into the fold for the first time, and it fits surprisingly well. Topuria’s precision, explosiveness, and discipline mirror the ethos behind pieces like the RM 67-02 he’s been spotted wearing, reinforcing the brand’s ongoing alignment with elite athleticism across increasingly diverse arenas.

On the product side, Omega is making a quietly significant technical statement with its new Constellation Observatory collection. Two-hand watches achieving Master Chronometer certification might sound like a niche flex, but the underlying acoustic testing innovation—essentially “listening” to timekeeping performance over an extended cycle—signals how seriously the brand is pushing precision beyond traditional benchmarks. It’s a reminder that even the most classic-looking watches are becoming increasingly data-driven under the hood.

The reviews and releases today span the full spectrum of watchmaking philosophy. Breguet leans into unapologetic classicism with the gold-on-gold Classique Phase de Lune 7235, a watch that feels almost deliberately out of step with modern minimalism in the best way possible. At the other end, Breva continues its instrument-inspired niche with the Segreto di Lario Meridian Gold, pairing technical theatrics with a seven-day power reserve that feels built for enthusiasts who enjoy interacting with their watches as much as wearing them. Longines takes a more pragmatic approach, refreshing the HydroConquest into what might be one of the most compelling sub-$3,000 dive watches on the market, while Mido quietly sharpens its Commander Datoday into a cleaner, more contemporary everyday option. Nomos, as usual, splits the difference with subtle color updates that make its Club Campus line feel fresh without trying too hard, and independent player Maghnam leans all the way into modular, sculptural storytelling with the Mohareb—arguably one of the more concept-driven releases in recent memory.

Elsewhere, the conversation around watch marketing is starting to sound a little more self-aware. The growing critique that luxury communication has become too polished—and therefore forgettable—feels accurate, especially as social media continues to reward authenticity over perfection. The brands that figure out how to loosen the tie without losing credibility are likely the ones that will stand out in the next cycle.

On the ground, BLADE Show Texas offered a reminder that enthusiast culture is still very much alive and well, even outside traditional watch events. The crossover between gear, knives, and watches continues to produce some of the most organic community moments, the kind that no marketing campaign can quite replicate. At the same time, the auction world is keeping things interesting, with a no-reserve sale headlined by a high-complication Richard MilleRM11-03 alongside heavy hitters from Rolex, Cartier, and Breitling, reinforcing that when the safety net disappears, attention tends to spike.

If you’re watching along at home, the video lineup today is particularly strong. There’s a first look at Omega’s new Constellation that helps contextualize its design direction, a practical breakdown of how to actually choose a watch without falling into brand-driven traps, and multiple hands-on takes on the new Longines HydroConquest that collectively make a convincing case for its value proposition. Add in a few industry deep dives—from strap pricing exposés to discussions about the evolving sweet spot around $3,500—and there’s plenty to chew on beyond just new releases.

At auction, yesterday’s H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Retrograde Seconds pushed to $25,000 but failed to meet reserve, a small but telling data point about where the market is drawing its lines right now. Attention now shifts to today’s closing lot, the 2022 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 26240ST, currently sitting at $25,500 as it heads toward its 5:25 pm EDT finish. As a modern benchmark for the Royal Oak line—with its integrated Caliber 4401 and 50th-anniversary pedigree—it’s exactly the kind of watch that tests whether steady demand still translates into decisive bidding.

All told, today feels less about any single headline and more about a broader recalibration. Brands are refining their strategies, collectors are getting more selective, and the line between hype and substance continues to sharpen. In other words, the watch world is doing what it does best—evolving just enough to keep everyone paying attention.

-Michael Wolf

News Time

H. Moser says it must maintain margins while doubling sales

H. Moser & Cie says it’s pursuing growth without sacrificing profitability, even as the broader Swiss watch industry faces pressure. The brand plans to expand capacity (including a new factory) while protecting exclusivity and pricing power. CEO Edouard Meylan argues that strong margins matter more than chasing volume, preferring to sell fewer watches at healthier profitability to fund innovation and marketing. The company expects this disciplined approach—plus a steady pipeline of new products and collaborations—to support significant growth over the next several years.

Richard Mille teams up with UFC champion Ilia Topuria

Richard Mille has signed UFC champion Ilia Topuria, marking the brand’s first partnership in combat sports. Topuria—an undefeated 17–0 fighter and a rare double champion—frames the collaboration as a shared commitment to discipline and excellence. The story highlights Topuria’s path from a difficult early life across multiple countries to becoming one of the sport’s biggest stars, known for frequent first-round finishes. He’s shown wearing the RM 67-02 Automatic Extra-Flat, a lightweight model he describes as elegant and understated.

Feature Time

CORDER’S COLUMN: This brag made me laugh out loud

Omega has launched a new Constellation Observatory Collection featuring Master Chronometer certification on two-hand watches, a notable flex given the lack of a seconds hand. The brand achieved this by developing an acoustic testing method that listens to each tick while tracking environmental variables over a 25-day test cycle. That continuous stream of data reveals performance details—like positional variation and frequency irregularities—that traditional testing can miss. Prices start around £9,100 for the 39mm steel model and extend up to £49,500 for an all-gold version.

The Latest Time

Breguet

Breguet Classique Phase De Lune 7235 Watch Hands-On: Gold-On-Gold Classicism

The Classique Phase de Lune 7235 is a limited-edition dress watch in 18k “Breguet gold,” pairing a matching gold dial and case with extensive guilloché work. It uses Breguet’s in-house automatic calibre 502.3.DRL, updated with a silicon balance spring for modern stability. The display is intentionally asymmetrical yet balanced, adding subsidiary seconds, power reserve, and a moonphase while staying classically Breguet. The watch is limited to 250 pieces and priced at $85,800.

Breva

The Breva Segreto di Lario Meridian Gold

Breva’s Segreto di Lario Meridian Gold keeps the model’s cushion-shaped titanium case and instrument-style retrograde layout, but adds a warm, matte powder-gold dial. The hand-wound calibre C101 (developed with Jean-François Mojon) delivers a substantial seven-day power reserve with high-end finishing throughout. A double power-reserve system is designed to make the remaining energy especially easy to read in daily wear. Price is CHF 46,000 (about $57,960 USD).

Longines

The All-New 2026 Longines HydroConquest Collection

The 2026 HydroConquest is a full redesign that keeps the 300m dive capability but shifts to a sleeker, more ergonomic case in 39mm and 42mm, with ceramic bezel and updated dial finishing options. Inside is the Longines-exclusive Calibre L888.5 automatic with a 72-hour power reserve and improved anti-magnetic performance. The collection offers multiple bracelet styles (including Milanese), both with micro-adjustment safety clasps. Pricing is CHF 1,850 (about $2,331 USD) on the H-link bracelet, or CHF 1,950 (about $2,457 USD) on the Milanese bracelet.

Maghnam

The Maghnam Mohareb: A Gladiator of Time with Sculptural Swiss Watch Innovation

The Mohareb is positioned as a sculptural, modular independent watch that blends cultural storytelling with a distinctly modern Swiss build. It was introduced with three interchangeable external configurations—Blades, Halo, and Wings—so the watch can be re-styled while keeping the same core structure. Time is displayed via a hand-wound movement with a bi-retrograde module, using sweeping arcs and a vertical counter for a more “instrument” feel than a standard dial layout. Launch price is CHF 7,200 (about $9,072 USD), with limited availability through select retailers.

Mido

The Mido Commander Datoday Just Got a Seriously Clean Redesign

Mido’s refreshed Commander Datoday targets the $1,000-ish integrated-everyday-steel-watch crowd with a noticeably cleaner, more modern dial. The update swaps older dot indices for baton markers and pairs them with faceted hands and sunburst finishing, while keeping the day-date display at 3 o’clock as the signature feature. The 40mm case uses a box sapphire crystal, is rated to 50m, and runs on the Powermatic 80 for an 80-hour power reserve. Pricing is listed as $1,090 for blue/silver/anthracite versions, or $1,260 for the green dial with rose-gold accents.

Nomos

The Nomos Club Campus Gets Two New Colors In Full Rose And All Olive

Nomos added two more understated dial options to the Club Campus line—“Full Rose” and “All Olive”—aimed at buyers who want something quieter than the brand’s more playful recent colors. Both versions keep the casual, approachable Campus identity while leaning into more versatile tones and contrasting minute/track accents. They’re offered in 36mm and 38.5mm and run the manual-wind DUW4001 with a 53-hour power reserve and 100m water resistance. Prices are $1,890 or $2,070 depending on size, with an optional sapphire caseback for an additional $290.

Omega

The All-New Omega Constellation Observatory Collection

Omega’s Constellation Observatory Collection revisits classic Constellation cues—like the pie-pan dial and dog-leg lugs—while introducing modern construction across steel, gold, and platinum references in a 39.4mm case. The headline is that these are the first two-hand watches to reach Master Chronometer certification, enabled by updated testing methods designed to validate precision without needing a seconds hand. Beyond accuracy, the certification process emphasizes real-world resilience, including resistance to magnetism and longer observation under varied conditions. Pricing is listed from EUR 10,700 to EUR 37,300 (about $12,305 to $42,895 USD).

Opinion Time

Is Watch Communication Too Serious?

Luxury watch marketing has long leaned on polished, formal visuals that signal heritage and prestige, but can also feel predictable and humorless. Social media has expanded what’s possible, letting brands share more human, behind-the-scenes content that creates authenticity and emotional connection. The piece argues that traditional campaigns—especially in places like airports—often blur together because they prioritize aesthetic perfection over being memorable. The challenge now is for brands to keep craftsmanship and heritage intact while taking bolder creative risks that spark emotion and stand out.

Event Time

Photo Report: Recapping BLADE Show Texas

BLADE Show Texas kicks off a yearly trilogy of blade-and-gear gatherings, with this Fort Worth stop offering a smaller, more relaxed counterpart to the larger Atlanta show. The report highlights the intense enthusiasm—people lining up hours early for rare items—alongside the social aspect of reconnecting with familiar faces and meeting new ones. Watch spotting is part of the fun, with everything from luxury pieces to community favorites seen on wrists, plus practical notes like prioritizing comfortable shoes and staying hydrated. The looser pace and ample venue space make it easier to have meaningful conversations with vendors and other attendees.

Brand-defining Richard Mille Model Heads Luxury No-reserve Auction

Wilsons Auctions is running online-only, no-reserve sales in late March featuring high-end watches and luxury accessories, all located in the UK. The headline lot is a Richard Mille RM11-03 in 18ct rose gold and grade 5 titanium, with an openworked dial and a complication-heavy RMAC1 automatic movement (flyback chronograph, countdown timer, oversized date, and more). Other notable lots include an Everose Rolex GMT-Master II and an unused HermèsBirkin 40, with a separate Belfast luxury sale also offering pieces like a 2025 Cartier Tank Must and a rose-gold Breitling Navitimer 125th Anniversary. The key hook is the rarity of seeing these brands offered without reserve, presenting an unusual shot for collectors.

Watching Time - Videos

A First Look At The New Omega Constellation Observatory - YouTube - Fratello

This video previews Omega’s newest Constellation Observatory models, focusing on what makes the line distinctive in both design and positioning. It walks through the visual details and finishing that drive the Constellation’s more elegant, precision-forward identity. The presentation also calls out the modern technical updates Omega is using to keep the collection current while staying rooted in the brand’s traditional strengths.

Watch Now

How to chose the perfect watch. My criteria. IWC, Tudor, Rolex, Mido, Christopher Ward etc - YouTube - ConstanTime

This episode lays out a practical framework for choosing “the perfect” watch by prioritizing personal criteria over brand hype. Using examples like IWC, Tudor, Rolex, Mido, and Christopher Ward, it highlights trade-offs between style, movement choices, and everyday usability. The core takeaway is to align the watch with your lifestyle and preferences so the purchase feels intentional and long-term.

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NEW Longines Hydroconquest - Best Budget Submariner?! - YouTube - Chisholm Hunter

The video evaluates whether the Longines Hydroconquest can credibly serve as a budget-minded alternative to the Rolex Submariner. It focuses on the design language, dive-watch functionality, and overall perceived quality that make the comparison tempting. By breaking down specs like water resistance, movement, and finishing, it aims to clarify where the Hydroconquest truly delivers value—and where expectations should be managed.

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Timothée Chalamet’s Red-Carpet Watch Of Choice | Drop #270 - YouTube - Subdial

This drop spotlights Timothée Chalamet’s latest red-carpet watch choice and why it works so well with their fashion-forward styling. It digs into the watch’s design cues and the brand/story context that make it more than just an accessory. The broader theme is how celebrities are using watches as intentional style signals rather than generic luxury add-ons.

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Fratello Talks The Talking Points That Define Horology - YouTube - Fratello

This discussion-style video tackles the big recurring topics that shape modern watch enthusiasm and collecting culture. It frames horology as a mix of history, design, mechanics, and evolving industry trends, aiming to give viewers a clearer lens for what matters and why. The overall tone is more reflective than product-driven, inviting deeper appreciation beyond specs and releases.

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Hands on: NEW 2026 Longines Hydroconquest - YouTube - This Watch, That Watch

A hands-on look at the 2026 Longines Hydroconquest, with attention on what’s new in the latest generation. The video emphasizes the watch’s on-wrist feel, design refinements, and the practical details that matter to enthusiasts considering it as a modern dive-watch option. It’s positioned as a visual-first walkthrough paired with commentary on what the updates mean in real-world wear.

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EXPOSED: $540 Watch Strap… Costs $15 to Make (I Have Proof) - YouTube - Scott Adam Lancaster

This exposé claims to document a dramatic markup between a watch strap’s retail price and its production cost. It uses that gap to critique how “luxury” pricing can be driven more by branding and positioning than materials or labor. The video’s bigger point is consumer awareness—encouraging viewers to question value, transparency, and what they’re truly paying for.

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The Best Watches Right Now Are $3,500. Here’s Why. - YouTube - The Watch Bros

The argument here is that ~$3,500 has become a sweet spot where build quality, movements, and finishing feel meaningfully “serious” without crossing into pure luxury pricing. The video links this to shifting buyer preferences toward dependable, distinct watches that still feel like a considered purchase. It also suggests that watches in this range can be both wearable daily and potentially collectible, balancing enjoyment and value.

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Why De Bethune Is What Rolex CAN’T Be - YouTube - ᴢᴇʀᴏ ᴛᴏ ꜱɪxᴛʏ

This video contrasts De Bethune with Rolex to explain why the two brands represent fundamentally different kinds of luxury watchmaking. It emphasizes De Bethune’s experimental engineering, avant-garde design language, and artisanal approach as areas where a mass-recognized powerhouse like Rolex simply isn’t trying to compete. The takeaway is that De Bethune appeals to collectors seeking boundary-pushing, niche horology rather than universally recognized prestige.

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Inside the Rolex CPO Sourcing War – ADs Are Driving Up Prices - YouTube - Collective Horology

This video examines how Rolex CPO demand and authorized-dealer sourcing practices can contribute to rising market prices. It frames the situation as a push-pull between constrained supply, dealer strategy, and buyer expectations, making the shopping experience more complex for collectors. By mapping incentives across the channel, it aims to explain why “official” pre-owned can still feel like a battleground—and what that signals for the broader luxury-watch market.

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Talking Time - Podcasts

Scottish Watches Podcast #764 : Pac Man Krayon, Summer Swatches, New Breitling, 50 Years Of Eco Drive and Much More - Scottish Watches

This episode covers a wide sweep of watch-world news, starting with a Pac-Man-inspired complication from Krayon that blends playful nostalgia with serious mechanical craft. It then shifts to Breitling’s new Superocean Heritage chronograph, focusing on its vintage-leaning design and how it fits today’s market. The discussion also highlights more accessible releases, including Citizen’s 50th anniversary Eco-Drive and Swatch’s bright “Totally Tropical” lineup. It wraps up with a look at independent watchmaking via Dominique Renaud’s one-hertz concept and the final edition of Greubel Forsey’s Balancier Convexe S².

Listen Now >

BuyingTime at Auction

A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com

[Thursday’s auction watch, the 2026 H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Retrograde Seconds 42.8 Steel / Midnight Blue fumé / Strap (3250-1200)) - was bid to $25,000 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]

2022 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 41 / Blue (26240ST.OO.1320ST.01)

The Modern Royal Oak Benchmark: AP’s 26240ST Chronograph in Steel

There are few watches that define an era quite like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph, and the 2022 reference 26240ST.OO.1320ST.01 represents a pivotal moment in that lineage. Introduced as part of the Royal Oak’s 50th anniversary evolution, this 41mm stainless steel chronograph refined the formula rather than reinventing it—sharper case geometry, a subtly redesigned bracelet taper, and most importantly, a new generation of in-house movement that finally brought the chronograph fully into the modern era.

At the heart of the watch is the automatic Caliber 4401, an integrated flyback chronograph movement that replaced the long-serving modular architecture of earlier Royal Oak chronographs. This was a meaningful upgrade, both technically and philosophically. It signaled Audemars Piguet’s continued push toward vertical integration and horological credibility in a segment that increasingly demands more than just iconic design. The movement is visible through the sapphire caseback, often featuring the special “50-years” oscillating weight on early examples, tying this reference directly to a milestone year in the brand’s history.

Aesthetically, the watch remains unmistakably Royal Oak. The Grande Tapisserie dial—here described as black but often appearing as a deep, shifting tone depending on light—anchors the visual identity, framed by the sharply brushed and polished octagonal bezel. The chronograph layout has been subtly rebalanced, improving legibility while maintaining the symmetry collectors expect. The integrated steel bracelet, still one of the best in the business, continues to deliver that seamless transition from case to wrist that has defined the Royal Oak since 1972.

From a market perspective, the 26240ST sits in an interesting position. Originally retailing in the mid-$40,000 range, the model has consistently traded above retail, with current secondary market values generally clustering in the low-to-mid $50,000s depending on condition and completeness. Listings across major platforms frequently range from roughly $55,000 to $65,000, with premium examples pushing higher, particularly for full sets in strong condition. That said, compared to other Royal Oak references, this model has shown slightly more price stability than explosive growth—an indication that while demand is strong, supply is not as constrained as in earlier hype cycles.

This particular example, offered as a full set with box, papers, and folio, lands squarely in the sweet spot for collectors. The condition—pre-owned with minor wear to the case and bracelet but excellent dial and crystal—suggests a watch that has been enjoyed but not abused. That matters here. The Royal Oak’s finishing is notoriously difficult to restore perfectly, so honest, lightly worn examples often carry more appeal than over-polished ones. The inclusion of all original accessories further reinforces its liquidity and long-term collectibility.

The broader significance of this reference is worth noting. The 26240ST is not just another Royal Oak chronograph; it is the blueprint for what the modern Royal Oak is becoming. It bridges the gap between heritage and contemporary expectations, combining Gérald Genta’s enduring design with a movement that finally matches the watch’s stature. In many ways, this is the Royal Oak Chronograph that collectors had been waiting for.

As the auction approaches its close at 5:25 pm EDT today (Friday, March 27, 2026), the question is not whether this watch will find a buyer, but at what level conviction meets opportunity. Given current market comps and the desirability of early 50th anniversary-era production, a final result in the mid-$50,000 range would feel entirely in line, with upside potential depending on bidding momentum.

For collectors looking for a modern Royal Oak chronograph that balances wearability, pedigree, and mechanical legitimacy, this reference remains one of the most rational—and compelling—entries into the Audemars Piguet universe.

Current bid: $25,500

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BuyingTime Daily - March 26, 2026

Thu, 26 Mar 2026 10:15:49 GMT

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Time Graphing today’s watch universe

Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe for March 26, 2026 reads like a market that is simultaneously growing up, spreading out, and—occasionally—still showing off.

The headline energy today starts with Audemars Piguet, which continues its quiet campaign to redefine what a luxury watch retail space even is with the opening of AP House Miami Beach. This isn’t a boutique so much as a lifestyle clubhouse with ocean views, terrace seating, and enough art-world credibility to make it feel more like a private gallery than a store. At the same time, Parmigiani Fleurier is moving in the opposite direction philosophically, leaning hard into what Guido Terreni calls “private luxury,” where understatement and long-term taste replace hype cycles and logo-forward signaling. It’s a notable contrast: one brand expanding experiential retail, the other refining the product itself into something more quietly confident. Meanwhile, Porsche Design is doubling down on vertical integration with a new Grenchen manufactory, signaling that even design-led brands want tighter control over production, while the secondary market continues to professionalize as Bezel crosses $1 billion in listings—further proof that pre-owned is no longer a side door but a main entrance to the watch world.

On the feature side, the industry’s push-and-pull between heritage and experimentation is on full display. Swatch is letting customers design watches with AI—yes, really—turning personalization into a five-day turnaround product, even if the results occasionally remind you that machines still have a learning curve. At the same time, Citizen celebrates 50 years of Eco-Drive with two very different takes on solar-powered watchmaking, one rooted in Japanese craft and the other pushing modern design language. There’s also a reminder that innovation didn’t start yesterday, with Longines getting its due for the Lindbergh Hour Angle, a watch that once made the impossible task of calculating longitude a little more manageable. And looking forward, all eyes are on Patek Philippe as the Nautilus approaches its 50th anniversary, with speculation leaning toward precious metals and higher complications rather than a simple nostalgia play. Add in independent momentum from Hazemann & Monnin’s prize-winning School Watch and a thoughtful dive into the nuances of vintage collecting, and you get a sense that the market is becoming more educated, more selective, and less easily impressed.

New releases today reinforce that range. Bell & Ross leans into a more jewelry-forward direction with the BR 05 36mm Blue Diamond Eagle, pairing its integrated sports design with a night-sky dial and diamond constellation. Credor quietly does what it always does—refined, slightly under-the-radar excellence—with the Kuon GCLX995 and its ceramic dial and Spring Drive movement. At the other end of the spectrum, Jacob & Co. goes full spectacle with the Billionaire Double Tourbillon, a watch that exists somewhere between horology and high jewelry theater. Then there’s independent watchmaker Andreas Strehler, whose Säntis worldtimer reminds everyone that complications can still be both intuitive and deeply technical when done right.

On the wrist, the reviews cover a wide spread of philosophies. Casio’s G-SHOCK Origami models show how even the most utilitarian platforms can carry cultural storytelling, while IWC experiments with Ceratanium to give its Portugieser Chronograph a darker, more modern edge—though not without some trade-offs. Merci Instruments continues to prove that thoughtful design doesn’t need a luxury price tag, and Nordic Marine leans into narrative-driven watchmaking with a moonphase that tries to mimic the northern lights. It’s a reminder that creativity is alive and well, even outside the traditional powerhouses.

The comparison pieces and editorial tone suggest a broader shift in the market. Affordable watches under $500 are getting smarter and more interesting, and the sub-€1,000 dive category remains one of the strongest value plays in the entire industry. At the same time, the culture around watches is evolving, with the loudest “Rolex flipper” voices fading and more knowledgeable, community-driven perspectives taking their place. In other words, the conversation is getting better—even if the prices aren’t always getting lower.

The videos worth your time today lean into that same idea of questioning hype and sharpening taste, from dissecting overhyped models to breaking down how the grey market really works and why so many new watches miss the mark. They pair nicely with the latest podcast featuring La Joux-Perret’s CEO, which digs into the less glamorous but far more important mechanics of actually making watches at scale.

And at auction, the story continues to favor the informed buyer. Yesterday’s Vacheron Constantin FiftySix failed to meet reserve at $16,750, which tells you something about where the market is drawing its lines right now. Today’s spotlight, the H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Retrograde Seconds, is a different kind of proposition altogether—an independent watch with a genuinely engaging complication and just enough quirk to stand out in a sea of safe choices. With the current bid sitting at $18,750 and the auction closing at 12:00 p.m. EDT today, it feels like the kind of lot that rewards someone who knows exactly what they’re buying—and why.

All told, today’s watch universe looks a little more mature, a little more segmented, and a lot more interesting. The industry is building experiences, refining products, embracing technology, and—crucially—learning to live without the crutch of easy hype. That’s not a bad place to be.

-Michael Wolf

News Time

Audemars Piguet opens AP House Miami Beach

Audemars Piguet has opened a new AP House in Miami Beach, a 7,300-square-foot space designed to reflect the area’s Art Deco energy. The location includes ocean views and a large outdoor terrace, with interiors featuring blush tones, natural materials, and textured glass. Beyond retail, it functions as a cultural venue emphasizing the brand’s ties to art and music, including works by Brazilian artist Sallisa Rosa and pieces from its contemporary art program. The brand positions the AP House as a hospitality-driven experience for clients, partners, and the local community.

Parmigiani’s private luxury play

Guido Terreni is steering Parmigiani Fleurier toward a “private luxury” strategy that prioritizes understatement, clarity, and long-term taste over flash and hype. The brand has reduced unnecessary complexity and sharpened its design language, with recent pieces like the streamlined Tonda PF perpetual calendar praised for readability and restraint. Terreni argues the market is shifting toward authenticity and personal expression, especially among younger collectors who value knowledge and meaningful ownership. He also emphasizes relationship-based retail and warns that post-bubble price distortions and changing expectations create long-term risk for brands that don’t adapt.

Porsche Design Opens Timepiece Manufactory in Grenchen

Porsche Design has opened a new Timepieces Manufactory in Grenchen, moving operations from Solothurn and deepening its push toward vertical integration. The updated facility consolidates development, engineering, assembly, quality control, and after-sales under one roof in a region with deep watchmaking history. The brand says the move increases production control, expands capacity, and supports sustainability goals. It also underscores a focus on customer-configurable, COSC-certified watches, supported by visitor-facing spaces that make the manufacturing process more transparent.

Bezel Tops $1 Billion In Listings As Secondary Watch Market Surges

Bezel has surpassed $1 billion in watch listings, reflecting the continued expansion of the pre-owned luxury watch market as online buying becomes more normalized. With global pre-owned sales reaching an estimated $17 billion in 2025, the company points to growing confidence in digital-first purchasing and a shift away from traditional retail pathways. Bezel’s managed marketplace model centers on trust, including in-house authentication for every sale. A 38% rejection rate for submissions that don’t meet standards highlights how quality control is being used as a differentiator as the resale space becomes more competitive and transparent.

Feature Time

I Designed a Swatch with AI

Swatch has launched its AI-DADA platform, letting customers create custom watch designs from text prompts for $195 with a remarkably fast five-day turnaround. The concept makes personalization feel approachable, but the limit of three design attempts per day can make it harder to iterate toward a great result. The review’s Swiss-rail-inspired example shows the system can produce a coherent, story-driven design, though small production imperfections (like slightly uneven print edges) can still appear. Overall, it’s a compelling mix of mass-production speed and one-off novelty that leans into “wearable art.”

Citizen Releases Two Very Different Models to Celebrate the 50th Anniversary of Its Ground-Breaking Eco-Drive

Citizen is marking 50 years of Eco-Drive with two releases that emphasize both tradition and forward-looking design. The Anniversary Edition uses a 40mm titanium case and a green washi-paper dial, pairing Japanese craft with modern materials and a Cal. A080 Eco-Drive movement in a limited run of 650 pieces. The Eco-Drive Photon goes more contemporary, with a cushion-style case, a new Cal. E036, and a layered dial meant to create shifting depth and visual texture. Together, the two watches frame Eco-Drive as both heritage technology and a platform for new design ideas at different price points.

How the Longines’ Lindbergh Hour Angle Made Finding Longitude Easy

After Charles Lindbergh’s 1927 transatlantic flight highlighted the difficulty of navigation over open water, he worked with Philip Van Horn Weems on a more practical tool for pilots. The Longines Hour Angle watch built on Weems’ earlier concepts and used a rotating bezel to help translate celestial observations into usable time corrections. Because longitude calculations were far more complicated than latitude, the watch’s approach reduced the workload and made the process more repeatable in real conditions. Even if Lindbergh didn’t wear this exact piece on the historic flight, it became an important aviation-era instrument and a key chapter in navigation watch history.

The Nautilus is About to Turn 50: Here’s How Patek Philippe Might Celebrate

The Nautilus has moved from a disruptive 1976 luxury-sports watch to a defining pillar of Patek Philippe’s brand identity, reshaping what “casual” can mean at the highest end. With the steel 5711 discontinued, the 50th anniversary in 2026 becomes a chance to reframe the Nautilus beyond pure demand and cultural hype. The article suggests Patek may lean into precious metals like platinum or white gold instead of revisiting steel, and potentially use a higher complication to underline technical legitimacy. The anniversary could also align with major brand events, turning the milestone into a narrative reset for what the Nautilus represents going forward.

The Hazemann & Monnin School Watch—What it Entails for a Sonnerie au Passage to Win

Hazemann & Monnin won the second Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives, earning a €150,000 scholarship and mentorship at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton. Their School Watch stands out for pairing an instantaneous jumping hour with a sonnerie au passage that automatically chimes on the hour—serious complications presented with a distinctly independent, artisanal sensibility. The watch is powered by their in-house manual-wind calibre HM01, reinforcing that this is not concept-watch theater but a fully realized movement built around craft and precision. Two versions (each limited to 10 pieces) reflect the duo’s dual priorities: one leaning technical and openworked, the other emphasizing artistic materials like malachite and opal.

The Nuances Of Vintage Watch Collecting

Vintage watch valuation is shaped by a mix of objective factors and collector-driven subjectivity, with condition, provenance, and shifting tastes all affecting price. Unpolished examples generally command a premium, yet certain “flaws” like tropical dials—or even more divisive traits like spider dials—can increase desirability depending on collector appetite. Provenance can materially change value, especially in military contexts where service use, issue status, and supporting documentation can each push prices in different directions. The piece also notes how scarcity in the primary market has driven more buyers toward vintage, making it even more important for collectors to stay informed when valuing and insuring their watches.

The Latest Time

Bell & Ross

The New Bell & Ross BR 05 36mm Blue Diamond Eagle

Bell & Ross shrinks its integrated-sports BR-05 concept into a 36mm steel case while keeping the line’s polished/brushed, bracelet-forward look and 100m water resistance. The standout is the blue aventurine dial, set with seven diamonds arranged to evoke the Eagle constellation, pushing the model into a more jewelry-leaning, “night-sky” aesthetic. Inside is the automatic BR-CAL.329 with a 54-hour power reserve, aimed at making the watch wearable as an everyday luxury piece rather than a fragile showpiece. The price is $5,000 USD.

Credor

One Of The Coolest Japanese Watches You’ll Probably Never See In Person

Credor’s Kuon GCLX995 is positioned as a more accessible entry into a brand that usually feels out of reach, pairing a glossy blue ceramic dial with a hand-wound Spring Drive 7R31 movement. The 39mm steel case stays restrained and dressy, but the added crown guards introduce a subtle sporty edge against the calm, sea-inspired dial. Compared with earlier Kuon models, the design keeps the series’ character while making small refinements like flatter markers. The price is approximately $10,048 USD.

Jacob & Co.

The Jacob & Co Billionaire Double Tourbillon Angel

Jacob & Co.’s Billionaire Double Tourbillon Angel Cut is built as a maximalist showcase: an 18k white-gold case (54mm × 41mm) set with nearly 300 diamonds, including the brand’s new “Angel Cut” stone format designed to heighten brilliance while keeping a rectangular profile. The hand-wound JCAM50 powers two flying one-minute tourbillons and delivers about 72 hours of power reserve, reinforcing that the watch is not just gem-setting but also high-complication horology. With only 18 pieces, it’s deliberately positioned as an ultra-rare statement object that merges jewelry craft with mechanical spectacle. The price is $3.4 million USD.

Strehler (Andreas Strehler)

The Strehler Säntis, A Fine And Intuitive Worldtimer

Andreas Strehler’s Säntis is a worldtimer designed to be genuinely user-friendly, using a single crown to control the functions while displaying 24 time zones on a titanium dial inside a 40mm steel case. The in-house automatic calibre SA-30W integrates the world-time module (224 total components), offers a 60-hour reserve, and is visible through a sapphire caseback with elevated finishing. Produced in very small numbers (roughly 30–50 per year), it’s positioned as serious independent watchmaking with practical daily usability rather than a novelty complication. Priced at CHF 24,750, that converts to approximately $31,400 USD (using ~1 CHF ≈ $1.27).

Wearing Time - Reviews

G-Shock

Casio G-SHOCK Origami Watches Review: Using A Modern Canvas For Traditional Japanese Craft

Casio’s G-SHOCK Origami models take the familiar DW5600 and DW6900 platforms and dress them with patterns meant to mimic origami folds. Functionally they stay true to the classic G-SHOCK formula, but add small thematic touches like an etched paper crane on the caseback and a special backlight that reveals the crane in red. The result isn’t a technical reinvention, but a design-first variant that leans on cultural reference and detail work. Both models are priced at $165 USD.

IWC

Hands On: IWC Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium

The Portugieser Chronograph Ceratanium gives IWC’s classic dress-chronograph shape an all-black look via a ceramic-coated titanium case that aims to combine scratch resistance with titanium’s light feel. While the aesthetic is striking, the review notes it arrives after the peak of the all-black trend and that certain dial finishes can trade off against legibility. Inside is IWC’s Caliber 69355, a step up from earlier 7750-based iterations with a column wheel and improved architecture, though some may still find it basic for the segment. It’s limited to 1,500 pieces and priced at $14,600 USD (before tax).

Merci Instruments

Hands-On With The New Merci Instruments Beaumarchais Collection — A Sextet Of Thoughtful And Affordable Watches

Merci’s Beaumarchais line marks its 10th anniversary with six variations that shift the brand’s vibe toward a sportier, angular steel case rather than a traditional field-watch feel. The collection keeps things accessible while still using an automatic Miyota 9039 with a 42-hour power reserve. Dial options range from playful to restrained, using different colors, textures, numerals, and indices to give each version a distinct personality. The watches are priced at €470.

Nordic Marine

Hands-On With The Surprisingly Creative Nordic Marine Instruments Lunør

The Nordic Marine Instruments Lunør centers its design around an aurora-borealis theme, pairing a double-moonphase display with a glowing “northern lights” effect as the moon fades. It comes in a 39mm steel case with 100m water resistance and is powered by a Miyota 9015 modified to drive the moonphase complication. The package is intended to be versatile, offering both bracelet and leather strap, and the overall concept leans more poetic than purely tool-watch. It’s presented as a distinctive daily wearer for someone who wants a narrative dial without giving up practical specs.

Comparing Time

Our Top 5 Affordable Watch Releases of 2026 So Far

This roundup highlights five of the most interesting 2026 releases priced under $500, focusing on watches that stand out for design, usability, or smart updates rather than hype. It calls out the Dryden Chrono Diver Gen 2 for refined execution while keeping a dependable meca-quartz setup, and Shinola’s Detrola Art Series for injecting a fresh, retro-leaning dial approach. Practical improvements also matter here, like the updated Casio G-Shock DW-5600MNC adding a more comfortable cloth strap to a classic platform. The list rounds out with more inventive and enthusiast-friendly picks, including the gear-like Delhi Watch Company DWC Terra and a cleaner, no-date take on the Orient Bambino 38mm.

What Are 10 Of The Best Dive Watches Under €1,000? — Featuring Citizen, Seiko, Baltic, Doxa, Certina, And More

This comparison argues that the sub-€1,000 dive-watch category remains one of the strongest value segments, balancing toughness, legibility, and real-world reliability. It spans a wide mix of mechanical, quartz, and solar options from major brands and microbrands, emphasizing variety rather than a single “best” answer. Examples range from modern staples like the Seiko Prospex “Turtle” and Citizen’s Eco-Drive divers to more heritage-leaning choices like Doxa and models with vintage cues from brands like Certina. The takeaway is that even as prices rise across the market, there’s still a deep bench of credible, enthusiast-approved divers under this threshold.

Editorial Time

Manosphere Rolex flippers no longer dominate watch talk

Watch social chatter around watches has shifted away from the pandemic-era wave of “Rolex flippers” who mixed hype, scarcity narratives, and get-rich-quick posturing. As the secondary-market bubble cooled, that style of influence lost momentum, and the center of gravity moved toward creators who engage more authentically with enthusiasts and focus on recommendations and real discussion. The piece highlights influencers like Khaled Mohammed Ebrahimi and Austen Chu as examples of this more community-driven approach. It also notes a broader diversification of prominent voices, including more female influencers, and argues that engagement quality now matters more than raw follower counts in determining who actually drives conversation.

Watching Time - Videos

Is This The Most Overhyped Watch On Youtube? - YouTube - Jag’s Watches

This video digs into a watch that has built a huge wave of attention online, especially on YouTube, and asks whether it actually deserves the level of excitement around it. It breaks down what’s driving the hype and contrasts the watch’s real-world design, functionality, and value against the expectations created by influencers and enthusiast chatter. The point isn’t just to praise or dismiss the watch, but to push viewers to think about how reputation gets formed in the watch space. It frames the discussion around consumer perception and how social media can distort what’s genuinely worthwhile.

Watch Now

Teddy Gave Me 10 Minutes to Pick a Watch Under $5,000 - YouTube - Ben’s Watches

This video is built around a fast-paced challenge: picking a watch under $5,000 with only ten minutes to decide. The time pressure makes the selection process the main event, showing how quickly priorities like brand, specs, and personal taste have to get sorted when the clock is running. It also gives a useful snapshot of what the under-$5k market looks like in practice, since the options and tradeoffs become very clear when you have to commit immediately. The result is both entertainment and a compact look at decision-making in a popular price tier.

Watch Now

These Affordable Watches Are Absolute Bangers! - YouTube - ONE Watches

This video spotlights a lineup of budget-friendly watches positioned as standout values, emphasizing that strong design and enjoyable wearability don’t have to be expensive. It focuses on why certain affordable models “hit above their weight,” likely calling out specific features, styling cues, and overall execution that make them feel like smart buys. The tone is aimed at encouraging viewers to shop with confidence in the lower-cost segment rather than assuming quality starts at luxury pricing. It’s a quick way to get ideas for adding variety to a collection without spending heavily.

Watch Now

Do Grey Market Dealers Really Get Watches Direct From Rolex Boutiques? - YouTube - Scott Adam Lancaster

This video examines one of the most persistent questions in modern watch collecting: whether grey market dealers can source watches directly from Rolex boutiques. It walks through how supply constraints, allocations, and resale incentives create a complicated ecosystem where rumors are easy to believe and hard to prove. The discussion aims to clarify misconceptions about sourcing and explain how the grey market actually functions. It also touches on what this means for buyers, including potential benefits, risks, and the realities of pricing and availability.

Watch Now

Why 90% of New Watches Are Garbage (The Factory Secret) - YouTube - Luxury Secret

This video argues that a surprisingly large share of new watch releases fail to meet quality expectations, and it frames the problem as rooted in manufacturing realities rather than marketing narratives. It focuses on how factory practices and production decisions can lead to disappointing craftsmanship or questionable authenticity even when branding suggests “luxury.” The message is meant to sharpen buyer judgment, encouraging viewers to look past prestige and understand what actually drives quality. It positions knowledge of how watches are made as the best defense against being misled by hype.

Watch Now

Talking Time - Podcasts

The Business of Watches Podcast: La Joux-Perret CEO Jean-Claude Eggen

This podcast episode features Jean-Claude Eggen, CEO of La Joux-Perret, a Swiss movement maker that has expanded rapidly since 2020 and is now producing around 200,000 movements per year. Eggen discusses the business mechanics behind watch production, covering how pricing, technology choices, and operational strategy shape competitiveness across both mechanical and quartz segments. He also emphasizes the importance of maintaining strong client relationships as the company scales. The episode additionally introduces Tad Kozh, a Swiss non-profit initiative focused on equipping young watchmakers with skills and tools to help preserve high-end watchmaking craftsmanship.

Listen Now >

BuyingTime at Auction

A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com

[Wednesday’s auction watch, the 2021 Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Self-Winding Rose gold / Silver (4600E/000R-B441)- was bid to $16,750 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]

2026 H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Retrograde Seconds 42.8 Steel / Midnight Blue fumé / Strap (3250-1200)

Auction Report: Midnight Blue With a Party Trick

The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is one of those watches that manages to look restrained right up until it decides not to be. At first glance, this reference 3250-1200 reads like a handsome, modern Moser sports watch: 42.8mm steel case, rich Midnight Blue fumé dial, clean handset, and the sort of minimalist confidence the brand has made its calling card. Then your eye drops to 6 o’clock and the whole thing changes. Instead of a conventional sweep seconds display, this watch uses a 30-second retrograde mechanism that arcs across the lower portion of the dial and then snaps back to start again. It is equal parts technical flourish and mechanical theater, which is exactly why it works.

That complication is the reason this model matters. Introduced in October 2024, the Pioneer Retrograde Seconds gave Moser something it does better than most brands: a genuinely fresh way to make a watch feel alive without turning it into a circus. The movement inside is the automatic HMC 250, based on the HMC 201 and paired with a retrograde module developed with Agenhor, a specialist whose name carries real weight whenever unusual mechanical displays are involved. The caliber runs at 21,600 vibrations per hour and offers a 72-hour power reserve, which means this is not just a conversation piece but a practical one too.

The rest of the watch is pure Moser. The Midnight Blue fumé dial keeps the brand’s signature gradient look intact, while the transparent logo and open display at 6 o’clock prevent the design from becoming too crowded. This is important, because a retrograde display can easily become gimmicky if the rest of the dial is shouting for attention. Here, it does the opposite. The complication gets room to breathe, and the sporty steel Pioneer case gives the watch enough everyday credibility that it does not feel like a delicate collector’s oddity. With 120 meters of water resistance and a screw-down crown, it is a high-end independent watch that still remembers to be wearable.

As for value, the numbers suggest this is already trading in the interesting part of the modern independent-watch market. Retail listings place the model at about $25,100 in the U.S., while asking prices on the secondary market currently appear to cluster roughly from about $20,000 to $23,500 depending on condition, set completeness, and seller location. That puts this unworn 2026 example with box, papers, and hangtags in a very strong position, especially since buyers shopping Moser often care quite a lot about freshness, completeness, and whether they are getting a current-production watch that still feels a bit under the radar.

That under-the-radar quality is part of the appeal here. Moser is not selling mass familiarity. It is selling taste, mechanics, and a slightly contrarian point of view. The Pioneer Retrograde Seconds is for the buyer who wants something more playful than a standard three-hander, more unusual than a typical luxury sports watch, and far less predictable than anything from the usual suspects. It is also one of those rare modern pieces that can appeal both to someone who loves independent horology and to someone who just wants a blue-dial steel watch with a little more personality than the market usually allows.

Given the unworn condition, the full set, and the fact that this is a current, technically distinctive Moser rather than a sleepy catalog reference, this lot should attract bidders who know exactly what they are looking at. The auction ends today at 12:00 p.m. EDT (Thursday, March 26, 2026), and this feels like the sort of watch that may reward the buyer who wants independent-watchmaking credibility without immediately wandering into six-figure territory. It is sporty, smart, mechanically entertaining, and just odd enough to be memorable. In other words, it is very Moser.

Current bid: $18,750

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BuyingTime Daily - March 25, 2026

Wed, 25 Mar 2026 10:15:47 GMT

Go to our Live News Site

Time Graphing today’s watch universe

Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe for March 25, 2026 reads like a market that is quietly recalibrating—less hype, more substance, and just enough eccentricity to keep things interesting. The headline moment belongs to Louis Vuitton, which continues to position itself as a serious patron of independent horology, awarding Hazemann & Monnin the second Watch Prize for Independent Creatives. Their “School Watch” is exactly the kind of concept that resonates right now—thoughtful, niche, and just unconventional enough to signal where collector taste is heading. That shift toward independent thinking is reinforced by broader market data, as Swiss exports bounced back with a 9% gain in February. The United States remains the anchor market, while France’s sudden rise feels more logistical than cultural, a reminder that headline numbers don’t always tell the full story.

What’s more telling is how collectors themselves are behaving. The growing interest in under-the-radar watches suggests a market maturing beyond the usual trophy pieces. Dealers are increasingly pointing clients toward overlooked vintage, neo-vintage from the 80s and 90s, and high-quality independents—areas where pricing hasn’t yet caught up to craftsmanship. In that context, conversations like the one with Mark Braun on the enduring appeal of the Nomos Metro feel particularly relevant. It’s a watch that succeeded not by shouting, but by getting the details right, a philosophy that seems to be gaining traction again.

Meanwhile, the broader definition of “watchmaking” continues to stretch. The 15-year anniversary of M.A.D.Gallery and its Frank Buchwald ML15 Helios underscores how kinetic art and horology are increasingly intertwined, blurring the line between timekeeping and sculpture. At the same time, the industry’s digital front door is evolving quickly, with Instagram performance now acting as a proxy for brand relevance. Interestingly, smaller or more nimble brands are often outperforming legacy names in engagement, proving that storytelling—not just heritage—drives modern desirability.

On the product front, today’s releases lean heavily into individuality. ArtyA pushes boundaries with its Purity Moissanite Curvy Tourbillon, a nine-piece run that feels more like wearable theater than a conventional watch. Bulgari continues its mastery of jewelry-watch crossover with the Eclettica collection, where the line between adornment and horology is intentionally blurred. Doxa takes a more pragmatic route, updating the SUB 200 II with larger dimensions and more expressive dials, while Isotope goes deep into craft with a cloisonné enamel dial inspired by Japanese manhole art—arguably one of the most esoteric inspirations we’ve seen in a while. Longines, by contrast, demonstrates how to evolve a classic without overthinking it, giving the Legend Diver a green-on-green refresh that subtly shifts its personality toward everyday wearability.

In Wearing Time, Seiko revisits one of its most important dive watch lineages with updated Marinemaster models, bringing improved mechanics and usability, even if pricing and finishing remain part of the ongoing debate. And in Comparing Time, platinum gets its moment as the ultimate flex material, with heavy hitters from Vacheron Constantin, Breguet, Rolex, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Omega, and Purnell demonstrating just how much weight—literally and figuratively—that metal can carry.

The video lineup reinforces the same themes playing out across the written coverage. The Windup Watch Fair Dallas recap shows a community that is thriving on diversity and direct engagement, while the look inside L’Epée 1839 highlights the continued convergence of art and mechanics. On the more provocative side, commentary around Rolex value retention and Seiko’s perceived positioning challenges suggests that even the most established brands are not immune to shifting expectations. And for those craving design nostalgia, the Vario Futurist review delivers a compelling “what if” rooted in 1970s aesthetics.

Finally, on the auction front, reality checked in. The Patek Philippe 5172G failed to meet reserve at $51,000, a subtle but meaningful signal that buyers are becoming more disciplined. That makes today’s featured Vacheron Constantin FiftySix all the more interesting—a watch that isn’t chasing attention but instead waiting for the market to come around to it. With bidding sitting at $16,750 and closing later today, it feels emblematic of the current moment: thoughtful, measured, and increasingly focused on long-term value over short-term noise.

-Michael Wolf

News Time

Hazemann & Monnin Wins The Second Edition Of The Louis Vuitton Watch Prize For Independent Creatives

Hazemann & Monnin have won the Louis Vuitton Watch Prize for Independent Creatives in Paris for their innovative “School Watch,” marking another major milestone after their earlier 2023 F.P. Journe Young Talent Competition win. As part of the award, they’ll receive a year of tailored mentorship from Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps along with a financial grant to support their development. The prize was designed to spotlight independent creativity, with finalists selected by an expert committee and judged by an industry jury. With demand already strong for the “School Watch” series, the mentorship period should be a pivotal next chapter for the duo.

Swiss Watch Exports Back In Positive Territory

Swiss watch exports rebounded with 9% growth in February after a weak January, signaling a near-term turnaround for the sector. France has surged to third place by export value, with exports up 47.4% in the first two months of 2026 to CHF 276 million—enough to leapfrog several major markets. Industry leaders caution that much of France’s jump likely reflects logistics and transit activity rather than a true spike in French consumer demand. The United States remains the largest market at CHF 757 million year-to-date, while declines in Hong Kong and China have moderated and overall exports are up 2.8% so far this year.

Feature Time

The Under-the-Radar Watches Smart Collectors Are Buying Now

The watch market is seeing increased interest in “under-the-radar” timepieces that have been overlooked but may offer real upside for collectors. Seasoned dealers point to opportunities across vintage heavyweights (including select pieces from major maisons) as well as high-quality independents whose work isn’t fully priced in by the broader market. Many also emphasize neo-vintage watches from the 1980s and 1990s for their distinctive design language and growing collectibility in a hype-driven era. Overall, the takeaway is a shift toward craftsmanship, originality, and timeless design rather than trend-chasing.

*M.A.D.Gallery Celebrates 15 Years Of Mechanical Art With The Frank Buchwald ML15 Helios*

M.A.D.Gallery is marking its 15th anniversary with the ML15 Helios, a limited sculpture by German artist Frank Buchwald that interprets the idea of a “mechanical sun.” Since launching in 2011, the gallery has expanded beyond a traditional retail space into a platform for kinetic sculptures and engineered objects that blend artistry with mechanical ingenuity. The Helios is presented as a luminous, three-legged structure with a central sphere designed to feel both organic and technological. Its painstaking handcrafted production underscores the gallery’s focus on artistic integrity, detail, and the community built around mechanical creativity.

Behind the Curtain: A Conversation with Mark Braun, Designer of the Nomos Metro

Mark Braun explains how the Nomos Metro became a modern icon by balancing minimalism with playful color and carefully considered asymmetry on the dial. A key part of the Metro’s significance was the introduction of Nomos’ proprietary swing escapement, developed with research partners to improve precision and efficiency. Braun highlights how collaboration and trust shaped the design process, with Nomos giving him creative freedom while still keeping the wearer experience front and center. The Metro’s evolution across variations shows how the original concept has stayed intact while continuing to experiment with materials and details.

Which Watch Brands Work Best On Instagram?

A review of 33 Swiss watchmakers’ Instagram performance suggests that follower counts and engagement don’t always track with production volume or legacy status. Smaller or more marketing-forward brands can outperform giants on engagement relative to the number of watches they actually sell, pointing to the outsized role of storytelling and audience-building. The analysis highlights how celebrity partnerships and clear social strategy can significantly lift both reach and interaction rates. Overall, it frames Instagram not just as a vanity metric, but as a meaningful indicator of brand resonance in today’s luxury watch market.

The Latest Time

ArtyA

The Spellbinding Artya Purity Moissanite Curvy Tourbillon

The ArtyA Purity Moissanite Curvy Tourbillon is a highly limited release of just nine pieces, built around a tonneau-shaped case made from lab-grown champagne-colored moissanite for a dramatic light-play effect. Inside is the skeletonized PUR-T3 hand-wound movement (developed with Télôs SA), featuring a 72-hour power reserve and an oversized tourbillon designed to dominate the visual experience. The watch pairs its technical theater with careful hand-finishing, including sandblasted and hand-beveled components, and an offset time display on a colored chapter ring. It’s positioned squarely as a collector-grade independent statement piece, offered on a nubuck leather strap.

Bulgari (Bvlgari)

Bulargi Eclettica collection

Bulgari’s Eclettica collection introduces three jewelry-focused watches that translate Roman-inspired spectacle into wearable, mechanical art powered by the brand’s compact Piccolissimo movements. The Divas’ Dream Notte Stellata leans into atmosphere with opal and a starry constellation of gems while still keeping time legible. The Pavone Bracelet pushes further into sculpture, using flowing, peacock-inspired forms with richly colored stones as the primary “message.” The Serpenti Dea Secret modernizes the snake motif with a concealed dial and a more architectural bracelet approach.

Doxa

The new Doxa SUB 200 II Collection

The SUB 200 II refreshes Doxa’s entry-level dive line by upsizing the case to 44mm while keeping thickness relatively slim, and expanding the range of dial/bezel looks (including a first-ever fumé effect across the lineup). It’s powered by the Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve, aligning the watch with mainstream, serviceable Swiss mechanics. Doxa also adds versatility through strap options, offering a mesh Milanese bracelet or Tropic-style FKM rubber in colors matched to the dials. Overall, it’s positioned as a modernized, more visually expressive take on the brand’s vintage-leaning dive identity.

Isotope Watches

Finally, a Japanese Manhole Inspired Watch with a Cloisonné Enamel Dial

This collaboration between Isotope and designer Björn Altmann takes inspiration from Japanese manhole cover artistry—specifically an Osaka Castle motif—turning civic “street art” into a high-craft dial concept. The grand feu cloisonné enamel dial reportedly took nearly a year to develop, with only five successful dials produced, matching the ultra-limited run of just five watches. Built on the Isotope Mercury platform, it comes in a 38mm steel case with domed sapphire and is powered by a modified ETA Peseux 7001 manual-wind movement with a 42-hour power reserve. The release leans heavily into rarity, craft difficulty, and cultural storytelling as its core appeal.

Longines

Revisiting the Longines Legend Diver, with the new Green-on-Green Rubber Edition

Longines updates the long-running Legend Diver with a green lacquer dial and a matching green rubber strap, giving the classic dual-crown silhouette a more contemporary, casual feel. The 39mm steel case retains the core tool-watch credentials, including 300m water resistance, while the movement is the COSC-certified calibre L888.6 with a 72-hour power reserve and a silicon balance spring for improved resistance to magnetism. The strap swap is the headline change, but it meaningfully shifts the watch’s personality from vintage-leaning bracelet diver to a more modern everyday sports piece. It’s presented as a permanent-collection evolution rather than a short-run novelty.

Wearing Time - Reviews

Seiko

Seiko Gave Its Most Important Dive Watch An Overdue Refresh

Seiko has introduced two new dive watches—the Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver HBF001 and the JAMSTEC Limited Edition HBF002—both drawing inspiration from the 1968 Hi-Beat 300m Diver design. They feature an upgraded Calibre 8L45 movement with a 72-hour power reserve and improved accuracy, though the case is now a bit thicker at just over 14mm. The HBF001 pairs a black ceramic bezel with a refined dial, while the HBF002 is limited to 1,000 pieces and uses a striking blue gradient dial inspired by icebreakers. Both models add a new toolless micro-adjust clasp for better comfort, but the review notes that pricing and bracelet quality may still be points of debate for serious enthusiasts.

Comparing Time

The Power of Platinum: 6 Watches That Make the Most of This Magic Metal

Platinum is presented as one of watchmaking’s most special case materials, valued for its rarity, weight, durability, and the distinct way it wears compared to gold. The story compares six standout platinum watches to show how different brands use the metal to elevate both design and mechanical ambition, spanning everything from refined calendar displays to high-complication statements. Highlights include a Vacheron Constantin with a salmon dial and retrograde indications, plus a Breguet that adds an equation-of-time display for a more technical twist. The lineup also includes notable heavy-hitters like a platinum Rolex Daytona and pieces from Jaeger-LeCoultre, Omega, and Purnell—together illustrating how platinum can amplify both elegance and drama in high horology.

Watching Time - Videos

Inside Look at the Windup Watch Fair Dallas 2026 - YouTube - Worn & Wound

The Windup Watch Fair in Dallas 2026 offers a broad look at the current watch landscape, bringing together established brands and independents under one roof. The video captures how the fair functions as both a showcase of new designs and a gathering point where enthusiasts, collectors, and industry people compare notes on where watchmaking is headed. Beyond the surface-level aesthetics, it emphasizes the technical details and the stories behind the pieces on display. With demos, panels, and exclusive releases, it highlights why events like this have become central to the modern watch community.

Watch Now

Inside L’Epée 1839: Where Time Meets Art - YouTube - Watchonista

This video explores L’Epée 1839 and how the brand blends timekeeping with sculptural, art-driven craftsmanship. It focuses on the meticulous design process and the careful execution that go into each creation, showing how traditional techniques and modern thinking coexist in the workshop. It also frames the brand’s output as more than functional objects—positioning them as narrative-driven works of art with heritage and intent. Overall, it’s a tour of how horology can become a platform for design experimentation and mechanical artistry.

Watch Now

Rolex Value Retention Is Falling – Rising Prices Are the Problem - YouTube - Collective Horology

The video argues that Rolex resale value retention is weakening and points to rising retail prices as a key driver of that shift. As prices climb, it suggests demand can soften at the margin, which in turn pressures secondary-market pricing and makes “safe investment” assumptions less reliable. It also touches on how higher pricing may affect Rolex’s broader brand perception by making the watches feel less attainable to a portion of the audience. The overall theme is that pricing strategy and market psychology are increasingly shaping the resale story.

Watch Now

There’s No Reason to Buy a Seiko in 2026… Here’s Why - YouTube - The Time Teller

This video makes the case that Seiko could be a less compelling buy in 2026 as the market shifts toward brands delivering more overt innovation and contemporary design direction. It frames the problem as a mix of changing consumer expectations and intensifying competition from newer players targeting modern tastes. While acknowledging Seiko’s heritage and loyal following, it argues that the brand’s recent product momentum may not be strong enough to keep pace with broader industry trends. The takeaway is an invitation for buyers to evaluate alternatives that better align with where the market is heading.

Watch Now

The Best 70s Watch That Never Was? Vario Futurist Review - YouTube - Relative Time

This review spotlights the Vario Futurist, a watch concept that channels a bold 1970s design language that never actually made it into production back then. It emphasizes the watch’s stylistic identity and why that mix of retro influence and modern execution resonates with collectors today. The video also examines materials and practical considerations, framing the piece as more than nostalgia—it’s a thought experiment in what that era’s design could look like with current manufacturing. Overall, it’s a tribute to a particularly expressive chapter of watch design history.

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BuyingTime at Auction

A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com

[Tuesday’s auction watch, the 2023 Patek Philippe Chronograph White Gold / Blue (5172G-001) - was bid to $51,000 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]

2021 Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Self-Winding Rose gold / Silver (4600E/000R-B441)

Auction Report: The Quiet Power Player — Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Self-Winding in Rose Gold (Ref. 4600E/000R-B441)

There’s a certain type of watch that doesn’t scream for attention but instead earns it slowly, over time—and the 2021 Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Self-Winding in rose gold is exactly that kind of piece. Sitting comfortably at the intersection of heritage and modern accessibility, this reference has become one of the more intellectually interesting plays in today’s secondary market, especially as collectors begin to look beyond the usual suspects.

The FiftySix collection itself is rooted in Vacheron Constantin’s 1956 reference 6073, a design that introduced the now-signature lugs inspired by the Maltese cross. That historical nod is still present here, but the 4600E/000R-B441 leans decisively contemporary with its 40mm case, sector-style silver dial, and an overall aesthetic that refuses to be pigeonholed as strictly dress or sport. It’s a hybrid—what many have come to call a “daily haute horlogerie” piece—and that positioning is exactly why it has aged so well since its introduction.

Powering the watch is the automatic caliber 1326, a movement developed within the Richemont ecosystem and finished by Vacheron Constantin. It offers a 48-hour power reserve and beats at 4 Hz, with modern conveniences like hacking seconds and quick-set date functionality . While it may not carry the Geneva Seal, it represents a deliberate philosophical shift for Vacheron: bringing more people into the brand without diluting its identity. And in that sense, it has succeeded.

From a market standpoint, the rose gold variant sits in an interesting lane. Originally retailing around the high teens to mid-$20,000 range depending on configuration, current secondary market examples for the 4600E/000R-B441 tend to trade roughly between $16,000 and $20,000, with stronger full-set examples pushing higher . More broadly, the FiftySix 4600E platform generally falls in the $11,000 to $21,000 range depending on metal and condition, reinforcing its role as an accessible entry into the brand . In other words, this is not a speculative rocket ship—it’s a value hold with upside tied to brand reappraisal rather than hype cycles.

The example offered here checks the right boxes. A 2021 production piece with box and papers, it presents in pre-owned condition with only minor wear to the case and strap, while the dial, hands, and crystal remain excellent. That matters. On a watch like this—where refinement is the entire point—condition is everything. The rose gold case paired with the silver dial remains one of the most balanced and versatile configurations in the lineup, equally at home under a cuff or in a more relaxed setting.

What makes this watch particularly compelling in today’s market is timing. As collectors increasingly recalibrate toward brands with deeper horological credibility, Vacheron Constantin continues to benefit from a rising tide of attention. Yet the FiftySix still lags behind the Overseas and Patrimony in terms of perceived prestige, creating a pocket of opportunity for buyers willing to think one step ahead.

The auction closes at 12:10 pm EDT, today, Wednesday, March 25, 2026. Expect disciplined bidding rather than fireworks here. But that’s the point. This is not a watch you chase—it’s one you acquire quietly, and then enjoy for the next decade while the rest of the market catches up.

Current bid: $16,750

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BuyingTime Daily - March 24, 2026

Tue, 24 Mar 2026 10:16:06 GMT

Go to our Live News Site

Time Graphing today’s watch universe

The watch world woke up yesterday morning with one eye on Geneva and the other on geopolitics, and unfortunately it’s the latter driving sentiment. Shares across Swatch Group, Richemont, and Watches of Switzerland took a meaningful hit as the Iran conflict rattled confidence, reminding everyone just how exposed luxury still is to global instability. Gulf-region demand has quietly been a pillar of Swiss exports, and when that pillar starts to wobble, markets react fast. That said, there’s already a counter-narrative forming—more measured voices suggest this is less a collapse in demand and more a recalibration after a frothy few years.

On the ground, retail continues to double down on experience, not retreat. TAG Heuer’s new SoHo boutique is a perfect example: compact, curated, and clearly designed to control the narrative around Carrera, Monaco, and Formula 1. The Ryan Gosling–stamped opening signals exactly where the brand wants to sit—somewhere between heritage and Hollywood, with just enough education layered in to make buyers feel like insiders rather than customers.

Product-wise, today’s releases run the full spectrum from deeply serious to delightfully unserious. Greubel Forsey closed a chapter with its final Balancier Convexe S² editions in ceramic, limited to just 22 pieces total and priced accordingly in the “call your banker” range. At the other end of the emotional spectrum, Krayon leaned fully into nostalgia with its PAC-MAN Anywhere, somehow making a video game feel appropriate inside a six-figure complication watch. It shouldn’t work, but it absolutely does.

Collaborations and color continue to carry the middle of the market. Louis Erard and Alain Silberstein delivered another pair of playful but thoughtful pieces, while Richard Mille kept the high-gloss, high-jewelry energy alive with its candy-colored RM 07-01 ceramics. Meanwhile, Seiko did what Seiko does best—quietly reinforcing its credibility with serious tool watches in the new Marinemaster releases, proving once again that not everything needs a celebrity ambassador or a gemstone bezel.

Further down the ladder, the creative energy is arguably even stronger. Selten, TAOS, Tedoro, and Venezianico all leaned into texture, storytelling, and material experimentation, from verdigris dials to Bauhinia-inspired mother-of-pearl executions. These are not watches chasing status—they’re chasing identity, and increasingly, that’s what resonates with newer collectors.

On the review side, things skewed practical but interesting. Bulova’s Super Seville Mini shows that the industry is finally taking smaller sizing seriously again, while Leica continues its slow but credible entry into watchmaking with the ZM 11, blending camera DNA with legitimate mechanical backing. Raymond Weil and Sero Watch Company rounded things out with classically positioned pieces that compete on proportion, finishing, and value rather than hype.

Opinion remains divided on where the industry actually stands. One camp sees cracks forming; the other sees normalization after an unsustainable run-up. The truth, as usual, is probably somewhere in between—less boom, less panic, more discipline.

If you need a break from all that, the video lineup today is strong. There’s a surprisingly thoughtful dive into underrated luxury watches, a speculative but entertaining look at what Tudor might have up its sleeve for 2026, and a behind-the-scenes tour of Audemars Piguet’s London presence that reinforces just how much physical space still matters in a digital-first world. The Krayon PAC-MAN piece also gets its moment on screen, which is worth watching just to see how seriously the industry can take something so inherently playful.

On the auction front, yesterday’s platinum Rolex Perpetual 1908 stalled just short of its reserve at $42,855, a small but telling data point in a market that is no longer blindly chasing every modern release. Today’s headliner—the Patek Philippe 5172G in white gold—sits in a much more intellectually satisfying lane. It’s not about hype, it’s about horology, and with bidding currently in the low $40,000s against a market that typically floats higher, it’s exactly the kind of watch that rewards patience over impulse as the auction closes later this afternoon.

All told, today feels like a snapshot of where the watch world is right now: slightly uneasy at the macro level, highly active at the product level, and still endlessly creative where it counts.

-Michael Wolf

News Time

Iran war wipes millions off the value of watch industry

The ongoing conflict in Iran has rattled investor confidence in the watch sector, triggering sharp share-price declines across major watch and luxury groups. After a period of strength, Swatch Group slid from above CHF 200 to around CHF 165, while Richemont dropped about 19%, reflecting wider fears around consumer demand and the macro outlook. The selloff also hit retail exposure, with Watches of Switzerland Group down roughly 17%, underscoring how quickly sentiment can turn when geopolitical risk rises. With Gulf markets representing a meaningful share of Swiss watch exports, concerns are mounting that weakened confidence in the region could pressure sales further.

Watch Shopping: TAG Heuer Opens New SoHo Flagship in NYC

TAG Heuer has opened a new flagship boutique at 99 Prince Street in SoHo, presenting a tightly curated lineup centered on Carrera, Monaco, and Formula 1, alongside limited editions and recent releases. The selection reinforces the brand’s current positioning: Carrera as the adaptable chronograph pillar, Monaco as the heritage statement, and Formula 1 as the accessible entry point. Designed around TAG Heuer’s latest retail concept, the 615 sq. ft. space blends modern architecture with cues from Swiss watchmaking and adds educational elements to deepen the in-store experience. The opening was marked by an event featuring ambassador Ryan Gosling, aligning the boutique with culture-forward storytelling and a push for more brand-controlled, immersive retail in key markets.

The Latest Time

Greubel Forsey

Greubel Forsey’s Final Balancier Convexe S², In A Black And White Ceramic Limited Edition

Greubel Forsey has unveiled a final limited edition of the Balancier Convexe S² in white and black ceramic, with each color limited to 11 pieces. The watch pairs a curved, sporty ceramic case with the brand’s signature high-end finishing, and it’s powered by a hand-wound movement offering a 72-hour power reserve. Built for refined wear rather than extreme use, it is rated to 30 meters of water resistance and highlights technical architecture like its openworked, suspended-bridge construction. The stated price is CHF 295,000 (about $374,000 USD).

Krayon

Krayon Introduce PAC-MAN Anywhere Limited Edition

Krayon’s PAC-MAN Anywhere marks the arcade icon’s 45th anniversary with an ultra-limited run of 15 watches that place PAC-MAN, ghosts, and fruit motifs directly into the time display. It retains the Anywhere model’s core complication set, including a 24-hour indication plus sunrise and sunset times customized to the owner’s latitude. The 39mm platinum case houses a manual-wind movement with a 72-hour power reserve, paired with an onyx dial and 30 meters of water resistance. The listed price is CHF 188,000 (about $238,000 USD).

Louis Erard

Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein Smile-Day Blue and Tourbillon Régulateur Blue

Louis Erard and Alain Silberstein expand their collaboration with two blue-dial releases: the Smile-Day Blue and the Tourbillon Régulateur Blue, both in 40mm titanium with 100 meters of water resistance. The Smile-Day Blue uses an automatic Sellita base and adds a playful day indicator that shifts color to distinguish weekdays from weekends, alongside a day/date display. The Tourbillon Régulateur Blue goes more technical with a hand-wound movement, regulator-style display, a one-minute tourbillon at 6 o’clock, and a 100-hour power reserve. Pricing is CHF 4,000 (about $5,100 USD) for the Smile-Day Blue and CHF 15,900 (about $20,200 USD) for the Tourbillon Régulateur Blue.

Richard Mille

The Richard Mille RM 07-01 Coloured Ceramic Gets Even Sweeter

Richard Mille’s RM 07-01 Coloured Ceramic arrives in three vivid final-series colorways—blush pink, lavender pink, and powder blue—each limited to 50 pieces. The watches use high-tech TZP ceramic cases and a bold graphic approach with rubber appliqués and diamond-set elements, contrasted by polished white-gold case bands set with assorted gems. Inside is the in-house automatic CRMA2 calibre with a 50-hour power reserve and a skeletonized architecture that emphasizes the brand’s technical aesthetic. Each model is priced at $363,000 USD.

Seiko

The Seiko Prospex Marinemaster Divers HBF001 And HBF002 JAMSTEC Limited Edition

Seiko adds two top-tier Prospex Marinemaster divers—the HBF001 and the JAMSTEC-linked HBF002—both rated to 300 meters and powered by the high-end Caliber 8L45 with a 72-hour power reserve. While the specifications align across both models, the HBF002 stands out with a blue dial inspired by polar ice and is limited to 1,000 pieces, while the HBF001 keeps a more classic black-dial look. Both include a steel bracelet with a micro-adjustment clasp and are positioned as premium, professionally oriented divers within Seiko’s lineup. Prices are $3,600 USD for the HBF001 and $3,900 USD for the HBF002.

Selten Watch

The Watch Ho & Co x Selten Jui Bauhinia in Pink and Purple MoP

This Watch Ho & Co. x Selten limited edition takes inspiration from Hong Kong’s Bauhinia flower, pairing a luminous mother-of-pearl base with an intricate “mountain” texture that shifts with the light. It comes in two colorways—light pink and purple—each limited to 200 pieces, housed in a compact 39mm steel case with 50 meters of water resistance. The watch runs on the Miyota 9039 automatic movement and uses heat-treated, skeletonized sword hands that echo the dial’s palette. The price is $1,250 USD.

TAOS Watches

TAOS Unveils Genese and Odonata

TAOS introduced two artistic limited editions—Génèse and Odonata—both in 38mm white-gold cases and built around highly decorative, multi-technique dials. Génèse draws on mineral textures, combining engraving under enamel with stones like black jade and blue agate, while Odonata leans into nature-fantasy imagery with high-relief engraving and diamond setting across a layered dial. Both use movements developed with Telos and emphasize hand-applied decoration aligned to each watch’s theme, while still targeting everyday practicality with sapphire crystals and modern build standards. Prices are CHF 150,000 (about $190,000 USD) for Génèse and CHF 200,000 (about $254,000 USD) for Odonata.

Tedoro

Tedoro Harmony 39 Sarab Limited Edition

The Tedoro Harmony 39 Sarab is a 39mm integrated-bracelet steel watch built around a vivid mother-of-pearl dial and Eastern Arabic numerals, with “Sarab” (mirage) referencing its shifting, light-catching look. It uses the Miyota 9075 automatic movement, offering a practical GMT function and a stated 42-hour power reserve, while keeping durability in mind with 100 meters of water resistance and an anti-reflective sapphire crystal. Limited to 300 pieces, it balances a distinctive dial with a wearable, not-overbuilt case and bracelet profile. The price is $785 USD.

Venezianico

Introducing the Venezianico Nereide Verdigris

The Venezianico Nereide Verdigris is defined by a brass dial treated with an oxidation process that creates a one-of-one verdigris patina, shifting between green, turquoise, and blue tones. It’s housed in the brand’s 42mm Nereide diver case and adds a maritime-minded detail with a tungsten bezel insert. Power comes from the Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement, and the watch is positioned as both a functional diver-style piece and a design tribute to Venice’s aging copper rooftops and waterside textures. It’s priced at $1,395 USD.

Wearing Time - Reviews

Bulova

Bulova Super Seville Mini

The Bulova Super Seville Mini is a compact, style-forward watch that leans into Bulova’s 1970s design heritage with a refined 25mm stainless-steel case. Its coin-edge bezel and integrated three-link bracelet reinforce the retro-inspired look while keeping the watch comfortable and wearable. Offered with white mother-of-pearl, red mother-of-pearl, or brushed silver dials, the emphasis is on texture and finishing rather than mechanical complexity. Pricing is positioned accessibly at $495 in steel and $575 in gold-toned steel.

Leica

A Closer Look at the Leica ZM 11

The Leica ZM 11 combines a modern, camera-brand design language with a technical foundation anchored by the automatic Caliber LA-3001 movement (supplied by Chronode) and a 60-hour power reserve. A dual-layer dial creates a strong sense of depth and gradient color play, giving the watch much of its visual identity. The 41mm case comes in titanium or stainless steel, is water-resistant to 100 meters, and includes a quick-change strap system inspired by Leica’s lens-lock mechanism. The lineup spans three models, with pricing described as coming in under $10,000.

Raymond Weil

The new Raymond Weil Millesime Small Seconds 39mm :

The Millesime Small Seconds 39mm is presented as an elegant, Art Deco–influenced daily wearer with a slim 39mm stainless-steel case and a distinctive “red grape tuxedo” dial layout. It includes a small-seconds display and Super-LumiNova-treated hands to keep legibility strong in low light. Inside is the self-winding Calibre RW4251, described as reliable, though not especially decorative in its finishing. The review places the retail price at CHF 2,075 and notes it competes well with options from brands like Longines and Nomos.

Sero Watch Company

A Closer Look at the Sero Watch Company Signature

Sero’s debut Signature model aims for classic, enduring proportions with a 37.5mm stainless-steel case and a dial designed to be clean yet characterful. Details like a vertical brushed dial finish, engraved Breguet numerals, and bold hand-blued hands push it toward a more elevated, traditional aesthetic. The watch offers multiple dial colors and strap/bracelet choices, including leather options and a beads-of-rice bracelet for added versatility. It’s powered by a Swiss-made Sellita SW210-1b hand-wound movement with notably strong finishing, and the price is listed at €1,199 (with reduced pre-order pricing mentioned).

Opinion Time

According To Ariel: Investors & Brand Finance Managers Are Mistaken That The Watch Industry Is Doing Poorly

The piece argues that much of the “watch industry is struggling” narrative is exaggerated, and that luxury watches are better described as moving through a post-bubble transition than a true slump. It points to real headwinds—geopolitical instability, supply chain disruption, and shaken investor confidence—but frames them as pressures on sentiment and strategy rather than proof of collapsed demand. A key example is the pre-owned market, where inflated prices have corrected, creating the impression of broader weakness even as underlying interest remains strong. The article also emphasizes sustained enthusiasm among younger audiences (driven heavily by social media), suggesting that demand could translate into future sales as those consumers gain purchasing power, with the U.S. market highlighted as a relatively healthy driver.

Watching Time - Videos

True Underrated Iconic Luxury Watches for Less - YouTube - WatchChris

This video highlights a selection of iconic luxury watches that tend to be overlooked, focusing on models that deliver strong heritage and craftsmanship without the usual price premium. The emphasis is on value-for-money pieces that still feel “legit luxury” in design and build, even if they aren’t the most hyped references. By spotlighting less-talked-about brands and models, it encourages collectors to broaden their search beyond the usual headlines. The overall takeaway is that there are credible, prestige-leaning options that can be bought for less while still feeling special.

Watch Now

My CONFIDENT Tudor Predictions for 2026 - YouTube - Adrian Barker

This video is framed around forward-looking Tudor predictions tied to 2026, positioning itself as a confident take on what could be coming from the brand. It’s set up to discuss likely trends, potential releases, and what signals to watch for in Tudor’s design and product direction. The long summary is intentionally light on specifics, so the substance of the predictions is primarily delivered in the video itself. Expect a speculative, enthusiast-driven rundown rather than a recap of confirmed announcements.

Watch Now

Inside The New Home of Audemars Piguet In London (and no, they didn’t offer me a job!) - YouTube - Justin Hast

This video tours Audemars Piguet’s new London space, using the location to illustrate how the brand expresses its identity through architecture, interior design, and atmosphere. It focuses on the visual and experiential elements that shape a boutique visit, emphasizing a polished, immersive environment aligned with AP’s luxury positioning. The creator’s humorous aside about not being offered a job sets an informal tone, but the core is a look at the brand’s presentation and customer experience. It serves as a window into how a top-tier manufacture builds exclusivity through physical retail.

Watch Now

The Craziest Finds at British Watchmakers Day 2026 - YouTube - WatchGecko

This video recaps standout and unusual watches seen at British Watchmakers Day 2026, spotlighting the creativity and technical variety on display. It frames the event as a showcase for modern British horology, where distinctive design choices and inventive engineering can take center stage. Alongside the “wow” pieces, it underscores the broader craft culture and heritage that continues to shape British watchmaking. The result is an energetic highlights reel meant to inspire curiosity and deeper exploration of the makers featured.

Watch Now

I Found the ULTIMATE Watch Collection! - YouTube - Chisholm Hunter

This video presents a large, impressive watch collection, leaning into visual storytelling to emphasize the variety of brands, styles, and craftsmanship on display. It aims to convey what makes a collection feel “ultimate” by focusing on distinctive features and the appeal of high-end finishing and design. Alongside the showcase aspect, it touches on the history and innovation behind the watches, helping explain why certain pieces are meaningful to enthusiasts. It’s positioned as both an entertaining tour and a celebration of horology as a passion.

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GENEVA SWITZERLAND WATCH PROWLING! We walk the streets of Geneva in search of the Coolest Watches! - YouTube - Rob the American

This video takes a street-level tour through Geneva with the goal of spotting and discussing interesting watches and storefronts in one of the world’s key watch cities. It blends travel and shopping energy with watch-enthusiast commentary, using different boutiques and sightings to illustrate the breadth of styles available. Conversations and observations along the way reinforce Geneva’s reputation for craftsmanship and watch culture. It’s equal parts exploration and education, designed to make the watch world feel tangible and accessible.

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PAC-MAN in High Watchmaking?! | Krayon Anywhere PAC-MAN - YouTube - Revolution Watch

This video explores the Krayon Anywhere PAC-MAN as an example of how high watchmaking can incorporate playful, pop-cultural themes without losing its technical seriousness. It focuses on the design integration—bringing PAC-MAN elements into the dial and display—while treating the watch as both a functional instrument and a collectible art object. The presentation emphasizes craftsmanship and the thinking behind the concept, positioning it as a fresh kind of luxury storytelling. Overall, it argues that nostalgia and serious horology can coexist in a way that appeals to both collectors and gaming fans.

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Talking Time - Podcasts

Scottish Watches Podcast #763 : Catching Up With An Old Friend - Scottish Watches

Harlan from WristReview returns for a relaxed but wide-ranging conversation about what’s changed in watches over the past year. A major theme is luxury fashion houses (like Chanel, Louis Vuitton, and Hermès) pushing further into serious mechanical watchmaking and reshaping the high-end landscape. The discussion also calls out brands that feel less clearly positioned—Blancpain is mentioned specifically—while giving credit to Hublot’s growing creative momentum and noting how Zenith and Omega are navigating their design identities. It’s an episode built around industry-direction talk rather than a single product story.

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SJX Podcast: Affordable New Releases | SJX Watches

This episode focuses on the “affordable” end of the market and how brands are competing on value, quality, and innovation. Seiko is positioned as trying to reassert itself as a value leader, with attention on models like the King Seiko Vanac (now in titanium) and an upgraded Marinemaster. The hosts also run through noteworthy releases from other brands such as Orient Star, Raketa, and Christopher Ward, including discussion of Christopher Ward’s in-house GMT calibre with a five-day power reserve. Overall, it’s a survey of strong new options for buyers who want substance without moving into high-luxury pricing.

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BuyingTime at Auction

A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com

[Monday’s auction watch, the 2026 Rolex Perpetual 1908 39 Platinum / Ice Blue (52506-0002) - was bid to $42,855 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]

2023 Patek Philippe Chronograph White Gold / Blue (5172G-001)

Auction Report: The Thinking Man’s Chronograph: Patek Philippe 5172G Blue in White Gold

There are chronographs, and then there are Patek Philippe chronographs. The 2023 Patek Philippe Chronograph ref. 5172G-001 in white gold with a blue dial sits firmly in the latter category—a watch that doesn’t scream for attention, but quietly asserts its place among the most refined manually wound chronographs in modern production.

Introduced as the successor to earlier references like the 5170, the 5172G represents Patek Philippe leaning heavily into its own archives while refining the formula for contemporary collectors. The design is unmistakably vintage-inspired, from the stepped lugs and pump pushers to the syringe hands and tachymeter scale, all cues pulled from mid-century Patek chronographs that today trade in the stratosphere. What makes the 5172G compelling is that it doesn’t feel like a reissue—it feels like a continuation.

At the heart of the watch is the manually wound caliber CH 29-535 PS, one of Patek Philippe’s most respected in-house chronograph movements. It’s a movement that balances traditional architecture with modern engineering, offering a column-wheel chronograph with exceptional finishing and tactile engagement. For collectors, this is the kind of movement you buy not just to own, but to interact with—winding it daily becomes part of the experience.

The 41mm white gold case gives the watch presence without excess, while the blue dial adds just enough sport to what is otherwise a very classical composition. It’s a versatile piece—equally at home under a cuff or paired with something more casual. This particular example, offered with box, papers, and additional literature, presents in pre-owned condition with only light wear, including minor scratches on the case. The dial, hands, and crystal remain excellent, which is where collectors tend to focus their scrutiny.

From a market perspective, the 5172G is an interesting case study. While Patek Philippe as a brand often commands premiums, this reference trades below retail on the secondary market, with recent estimates hovering around the mid-$50,000 range against a retail price just under $100,000. Comparable listings typically fall between roughly $60,000 and $80,000 depending on condition and dial variation, suggesting a relatively accessible entry point into high-end Patek chronographs. That relative “discount” is less a knock on the watch and more a reflection of shifting collector tastes and broader market normalization after the post-pandemic boom.

And that’s where this watch becomes particularly compelling. The 5172G is not a hype piece. It is not a Nautilus or an Aquanaut. It is something better for a certain kind of buyer: a purist’s chronograph, rooted in traditional watchmaking values, with a design language that will likely age far more gracefully than trend-driven pieces.

The auction for this example closes at 4:15 pm EDT today, March 24, 2026. For a collector looking to acquire a serious Patek Philippe chronograph without paying peak-market premiums, this is exactly the kind of opportunity worth watching closely.

Current bid: $42,500

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BuyingTime Daily - March 23, 2026

Mon, 23 Mar 2026 10:15:51 GMT

Go to our Live News Site

Time Graphing today’s watch universe

The watch world opens the week with Audemars Piguet reminding everyone that growth in modern horology is still being built—quite literally—from the ground up. The brand’s new Meyrin facility is less about spectacle and more about control, bringing case and bracelet production into a flexible, tech-forward environment that can scale alongside demand. At the same time, Audemars Piguet is doubling down on its product narrative, teasing an expanded Royal Oak lineup that stretches from ultra-complicated pocket watch theatrics to smaller, design-driven executions. It’s a signal that even at the top of the market, evolution—not reinvention—is the current strategy.

Elsewhere, the business side of watches feels more measured. Signet Jewelers posted solid fiscal 2026 growth while quietly acknowledging that the path forward depends on sharper retail execution rather than raw demand expansion. In other words, the industry isn’t shrinking—it’s getting more selective. That theme carries into today’s deeper feature on authentication, where multimillion-dollar “superfakes” and Frankenwatches are forcing the market to mature quickly. Trust, increasingly, is becoming as valuable as the watches themselves.

On the cultural and philosophical side, the conversation continues to fragment in interesting ways. Independent watchmaker Daizoh Makihara represents the next wave of small-scale, highly personal production, blending Japanese craft with modern horology, while broader editorial debates question long-held assumptions—like whether “in-house” movements are actually worth the premium. Even something as simple as a crown gets its moment in the spotlight, reinforcing that the smallest details still define the user experience. Meanwhile, Breguet’s myth-laden No. 160 reminds us that the long arc of watchmaking has always been part storytelling, part technical evolution.

New releases today cover a wide spectrum of intent. Bamford leans into playful Ivy League nostalgia with its J. Press collaboration, while H. Moser & Cie. delivers a high-end ceramic Streamliner tourbillon that feels as serious as it is stealthy. At the extreme end, Haute-Rive pushes mechanical limits with a 1,000-hour power reserve, while Orient Starand Jack Mason continue to prove that enthusiast-level specs are no longer reserved for five-figure price points. Independent design also holds its ground, with Simon LeFrancois exploring architectural form in ultra-limited runs that feel closer to wearable sculpture than mass production.

On the review front, the industry’s range is on full display. Bulgari’s Octo Finissimo continues to feel like a modern classic that hasn’t aged a day, while Citizen celebrates 50 years of Eco-Drive with a concept-driven titanium piece that leans into science as much as design. At the other end, accessible watches from brands like RZE and Sternglas reinforce just how competitive the sub-$1,000 segment has become, while even a budget-friendly aviation piece from Chase-Durer finds a way to deliver personality over pedigree. The takeaway is clear: good watches now exist at every price point—it just depends on what you value.

In the broader market conversation, motorsport remains a powerful marketing engine, with TAG Heuer, Richard Mille, IWC, and others continuing to use Formula 1 as a high-speed showroom for materials, partnerships, and storytelling. At the same time, collectors are being nudged toward alternatives—whether it’s Daytona substitutes or retrograde complications—suggesting a growing willingness to look beyond the usual suspects. Even travel accessories are getting their due, as watch rolls evolve into status objects in their own right.

The video lineup today leans heavily into both aspiration and reality. There’s the expected parade of million-dollar watches and celebrity collections—Rick Ross’s $4 million assortment being the headline act—but also a noticeable counterbalance of practical guidance, from “what should you buy next?” discussions to deep dives into counterfeit risks. A particularly candid look at Rolex distribution adds a layer of transparency to a market that often thrives on opacity, while several creators continue to explore the tension between engineering excess and real-world usefulness.

All of this feeds directly into today’s auction focus, where the Rolex Perpetual 1908 Platinum Ice Blue quietly makes its case as one of the more intellectually interesting watches on the market. With a current bid of $41,500 heading into the close, it stands apart from the usual sports-watch frenzy by offering something rarer: restraint. It’s Rolex operating in a different register—less about visibility, more about credibility—and the market is still deciding how to price that distinction in real time.

Taken together, today’s watch universe feels less unified but more dynamic. Production is becoming more controlled, design more experimental, and the market itself more discerning. If there’s a single throughline, it’s that the easy narratives are disappearing. What’s left is a landscape where taste, knowledge, and a bit of skepticism matter more than ever.

-Michael Wolf

News Time

Audemars Piguet opens advanced production line factory

Audemars Piguet has opened a newly renovated factory complex in Meyrin, converting a former pharmaceutical building into a nearly 100,000-square-foot manufacturing site. The facility is designed to blend modern production technology with the brand’s heritage, and it will initially support about 200 employees focused on making cases and bracelets (with capacity to grow to around 350). Its three-level layout is organized around the full flow of production—machining, finishing, and assembly—with modular spaces intended to adapt as technology and output needs evolve.

Signet Jewelers reports Fiscal 2026 growth and issues 2027 outlook

Signet reported fiscal 2026 growth, including fourth-quarter sales of $2.35B and full-year sales of $6.81B, even as same-store sales dipped slightly. The company attributed performance to a sharper focus on its biggest banners—Kay, Zales, and Jared—alongside improved margins and cost management that boosted operating income. For fiscal 2027, Signet forecast sales of $6.6B–$6.9B and plans to emphasize brand differentiation and stronger in-store and digital experiences, while also raising its dividend again and pointing to solid cash and free-cash-flow levels.

Feature Time

Meet the Watch Expert Catching Multimillion-Dollar Counterfeits

Jose Perez, a prominent vintage watch authenticator, uncovered a counterfeit watch valued at $5.5 million while evaluating it for a wealthy client. Backed by a digital directory of more than 100,000 vintage pieces, he’s become an important (and sometimes polarizing) figure in a market increasingly threatened by fraud. The story traces how counterfeiting has evolved into highly convincing “superfakes,” including “Frankenwatches” assembled from a mix of real and fake parts. Perez’s goal is to strengthen market integrity, and he argues that restoration should be recognized as part of a vintage watch’s history rather than automatically diminishing value.

Portrait: Talking To Daizoh Makihara, AHCI Candidate And LV Watch Prize Finalist

Daizoh Makihara is an independent watchmaker blending traditional Japanese craft with modern horology, including the Edo-kiriko method of hand-cutting patterns into crystal. After changing careers from chef to watchmaker, he developed his approach through formal study and mentorship, then created pieces that aim to express nature through complex design and finishing. The article highlights both his early work and his philosophy around originality and sincerity in independent watchmaking. Looking ahead, he’s focused on a more compact three-hand watch while navigating the realities of very limited production.

Are In-House Movements Overrated? Lessons from 2 Tudors and an IWC

This piece questions whether “in-house” movements reliably deliver the quality and dependability that marketing often implies. Drawing on real ownership experiences with brands like Tudor and IWC, it points to defects and failures that can appear even in expensive watches, challenging the assumption that in-house automatically means better. It also notes that the push toward in-house production is often driven by differentiation, but can come with growing pains as brands refine new calibers. The takeaway is a call for buyers to look past the label and evaluate an in-house movement’s track record before paying a premium.

pocket watch-inspired clock shows users what time could feel like

Balmuda’s pocket watch-inspired device, The Clock, reframes timekeeping around the feeling of time passing rather than simply displaying the hour. Its Light Hour system uses illumination that moves in a slow, pendulum-like progression, and the hardware is milled from aluminum to be portable and USB-C rechargeable. Beyond telling time, it includes modes designed for relaxation and focus, such as nature soundscapes that gradually rise to wake you gently and a white-noise timer. Controlled through the Balmuda Connect app, it positions time as an immersive, calming experience.

Audemars Piguet are reinterpreting the Royal Oak

Audemars Piguet is preparing a major slate of releases ahead of Watches & Wonders, expanding the Royal Oak universe with both technical and design-focused updates. Highlights include the 150 Héritage pocket watch with 47 functions, new Royal Oak Mini quartz models, and the Calibre 7139 openworked perpetual calendar appearing across multiple references. The lineup also refreshes key models with new movements and color updates, including a new chronograph and an updated Offshore Diver. Overall, the releases signal a confident push to evolve the Royal Oak while keeping its core identity intact.

Which watches are driving this year’s Formula 1 season?

The 2026 F1 season continues to be a major showcase for luxury watchmaking, with the pit lane acting as a highly visible stage for brand partnerships and new releases. The article highlights how companies like Breitling, TAG Heuer, Richard Mille, IWC, and H. Moser & Cie. are tying design and technical narratives to teams, drivers, and motorsport culture. Limited editions and collaboration pieces underscore how closely watches and racing align around performance, materials, and status. The result is a cross-industry snapshot of how F1 helps drive watch trends and visibility for both enthusiasts and collectors.

Rick Ross Reveals $4M Watch Collection To WatchGuys

Rick Ross shared a watch collection reportedly worth over $4 million, anchored by a $2 million Jacob & Co. Mystery Tourbillon and spanning around 20 notable pieces collected over two decades. Beyond big names like Patek Philippe and Rolex, he emphasizes independent jewelers and the personal meaning attached to individual watches, including a significant gift from Dr. Dre. The story frames the collection as a record of his rise and the memories tied to each acquisition, not just a display of wealth. It also touches on how some past choices now feel differently in hindsight, reinforcing the idea that collecting evolves along with the collector.

Revisiting the Omega Constellation Perpetual Calendar

This look back at the 1990s Omega Constellation Perpetual Calendar focuses on its distinctive integrated design and its practical quartz Caliber 1680, programmed to handle leap years and month lengths through 2099. The watch offers user-friendly functionality, including quick access to month and year via the crown and traveler-oriented time setting with an independently adjustable hour hand. Its dial stands out for its size and textured details, delivering a strong period aesthetic with steel-and-gold styling that still reads as bold today. While tastes have shifted since the ’90s, the piece is presented as a statement watch with enduring usefulness and character.

9 of The Best Luxury Watch Travel Rolls

This guide argues that a good watch travel roll is essential for collectors, balancing protection, organization, and style while on the move. It rounds up options across the spectrum—from hard-shell protection like RIMOWA’s watch case to leather rolls from makers such as Ettinger and Bosphorus, plus more modern travel-ready designs. Several picks emphasize practicality for frequent travel, while others lean into luxury craft and presentation, including handmade pieces from London. The list also includes more distinctive materials and features, such as a sustainable cork design with a hidden jewelry capsule, showing how travel storage has become part of the collecting experience.

The ABCs of Time: All about Watch Crowns, the Small but Crucial Interaction with your Watch

This article breaks down why the crown is the primary interface for a watch, controlling winding and time/date setting, and how it evolved from key-wound systems into the modern stem-and-crown format. It explores how crown designs have diversified—different shapes, multiple crowns, and functional innovations—while still serving the same essential role. Water resistance and durability are a major theme, with features like screw-down crowns, crown guards, and recessed designs helping protect the movement from water and dust. The overall message is that the crown, though small, is central to both usability and the long-term integrity of a watch.

In Depth: Breguet No. 160 “Montre d´Or”

Breguet No. 160 is surrounded by myth, often linked to a secret commission for Marie-Antoinette and a decades-long creation story that took 44 years to complete. The article explains how the watch’s legend grew over time, but also shows that the real history is more complex, involving extensive changes and technical evolution across multiple eras. Innovations such as a new escapement and added jewel bearings reflect how the piece became a layered record of horological progress rather than a single moment in time. In the end, its significance is framed less as royal intrigue and more as a monument to the long arc of craftsmanship, collaboration, and advancing watchmaking technique.

The Latest Time

Bamford Watches

Ivy League Style on the Wrist with the J. Press x Bamford London B80

This limited-edition collaboration (100 pieces) leans into Ivy League nostalgia with a dial that replaces standard hour markers with twelve pennant-like segments. The watch uses a lightweight 39mm titanium case, 100m water resistance, and the automatic Sellita SW300-1 with a 56-hour power reserve. It also ships with details that reinforce the fashion crossover, including packaging that includes a J. Press blazer badge. Price is $1,595.

H. Moser & Cie

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Tourbillon Concept Ceramic Watch

This Streamliner variant pairs a cushion-shaped case and integrated bracelet made entirely from anthracite gray ceramic with a grand feu enamel dial meant to emphasize depth and color. Inside is Moser’s HMC805 movement with a three-day power reserve, plus a tourbillon intended to improve timekeeping stability while adding visual drama. With 120m water resistance and high-end finishing throughout, it’s positioned as a technically serious ceramic sports-luxury tourbillon. Price is approximately $113,000 (converted from CHF 89,000).

Haute-Rive

The 1000-Hour Power Reserve Haute-Rive Honoris Meccanica, with Fully Exposed Mechanics

The Honoris Meccanica is built around an extraordinary 1,000-hour power reserve, achieved with a single barrel and a mainspring stretching over three meters. Its architecture is intentionally exposed from the dial side, including a prominent one-minute tourbillon that appears to float above the display. A 42.5mm white-gold case and a notched rotating bezel used for winding reinforce the “mechanics-first” identity, while production is extremely limited (roughly 10 per year, with some variants even fewer). Price is approximately $201,000 (converted from CHF 158,000, excluding taxes).

Jack Mason

Introducing: The Jack Mason Palmera Skin Diver And A New Way Of Bringing Watches To Market

The Palmera Skin Diver is a 39mm compressor-style dive watch rated to 200m, offered in multiple dial colors with a community-vote element planned for an additional option. It runs on the Swiss La Joux-Perret G101 automatic movement with a 68-hour power reserve and a stated accuracy target of ±5 seconds per day. The release is tied to Jack Mason’s Born & Raised presale model, which blends presale and crowdfunding mechanics—if demand thresholds aren’t met, the launch is canceled. Early-buyer price is $1,049.

Orient Star

The Orient Star M42 Diver 1964 1st Edition F6 Date 200m

This limited-edition diver marks Orient Star’s 75th anniversary with an ISO 6425-rated 200m watch that nods to early Japanese dive-watch history. It features a 41mm steel case, a blue-to-black gradient dial, a unidirectional bezel, strong lume for low-light legibility, and a power-reserve indicator. The in-house automatic caliber F6N47 delivers a 50-hour power reserve and is paired with a five-row steel bracelet, with production limited to 700 pieces. Price is approximately $1,509 (converted from €1,299.99) / approximately $1,500 (converted from £1,129.99).

Simon LeFrancois

Volumes By Simon LeFrancois Explores Shapes And Materials

“Volumes” is a small-run independent watch defined by a rectangular steel case (41mm by 32mm) with sculpted flanks, scalloped corners, and distinctive lugs that continue the maker’s design language. The dial is built in multiple levels with contrasting textures and blued markers to create depth while keeping a restrained, architectural look. Power comes from a modified Landeron chronograph movement adapted to fit the case’s proportions, and production is extremely limited (three pieces this year). Price is approximately $19,720 (converted from €17,000, VAT included).

Wearing Time - Reviews

Bulgari (Bvlgari)

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic Watch Still Feels Surreal & Iconic

The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic remains a standout for its ultra-thin engineering and geometric design language that blends circles and octagons into a distinct silhouette. After extended wear, the review emphasizes how the 2.23mm-thick movement and 60-hour power reserve help the watch feel as technically impressive as it looks. The salmon dial’s shifting tones and the integrated bracelet are highlighted for both visual impact and comfort, helping the piece avoid feeling dated despite being on the market for years. Priced at $13,600, it’s positioned as a playful but serious modern icon.

Chase-Durer

The Chase-Durer Wing Commander X: A Look at Every Wannabe Fighter Pilot’s Wrist Companion

The Wing Commander X leans hard into 1990s aviation/military-watch energy, pairing bold design with practical, legible execution. The review notes that while the brand can draw skepticism, this model’s white dial and smart color accents make it both eye-catching and easy to read. At 40mm, it uses a Hattori VD57B quartz movement and sapphire crystal, giving it durability that exceeds what many expect at its price level. It’s often available for under $100, making it an inexpensive, character-rich addition rather than a serious pilot’s instrument.

Citizen

Eco-Drive Turns 50 and Citizen Is Celebrating With a Wild Titanium Watch

Citizen’s Eco-Drive Photon celebrates 50 years of Eco-Drive with a dial concept inspired by the Double Slit Experiment, using layered slits and a structural color film to shift appearance with changing light. The watch is presented as more thoughtfully executed than a typical anniversary gimmick, even if reactions to the look are mixed. It comes in a 39.6mm Super Titanium case with 50m water resistance and runs the Cal. E036 solar movement with a 365-day power reserve and ±15 seconds/month accuracy. Price is around $1,000, and both versions are limited to 5,000 pieces.

Fears

Why I Bought The Fears × Studio Underd0g Mim0sa

The Fears × Studio Underd0g Mim0sa is framed as a watch that’s meant to feel joyful and social—designed to evoke the look and mood of a brunch mimosa cocktail. The review highlights its textured sapphire disc and layered construction, which create a lively “bubbly” effect as light moves across the dial. Its manual-wind movement adds hands-on charm, and the 10atm water resistance is emphasized through a real-world swim test where it performed without issues. More than anything, it’s portrayed as a conversation piece built around playful color and personality.

Peacock

Peacock Witness Tourbillon Watch Review: Affordable Haute Horology Without Real Sacrifice

The Peacock Witness is positioned as an unusually attainable tourbillon watch, pairing a 904L steel case with a dial that spotlights the tourbillon at 6 o’clock and leans into depth and texture. The review argues that the watch benefits from improving Chinese manufacturing, challenging the idea that tourbillons must be priced out of reach. Beyond the spectacle, it aims to be wearable and practical, including a suede strap and an unusual water-level indicator feature. At $2,299, it’s presented as a credible entry point into high-complication aesthetics without the typical cost.

RZE

The RZE Resolute Type A Reimagines The Classic Pilot’s Watch

The RZE Resolute Type A updates the classic 1940 pilot-watch template with modern materials and a clean, legibility-first dial layout. Made from sandblasted grade 2 titanium, it emphasizes lightweight wearability and durability, and includes a distinctive caseback window detail that adds interest without cluttering the design. The watch runs on the Miyota 82S0 automatic movement and comes in multiple dial colors to suit different tastes. Pricing is positioned as accessible: $499 on a TecTuff strap or $699 with a titanium HexLink bracelet.

Sternglas

Hands-On With The Newly Introduced Sternglas Berlin Automatik

The Berlin Automatik takes Sternglas’s Bauhaus-leaning dress-watch design and upgrades it from quartz to a Japanese Miyota automatic movement. The addition of a sapphire display caseback and the slightly thicker profile are framed as worthwhile tradeoffs for mechanical appeal while keeping the clean 38mm format. Multiple dial colors (including midnight blue and salmon copper) and strap/bracelet options help it stay versatile for different styles. At approximately $516 (converted from €449), it’s positioned as a strong value automatic dress watch.

Comparing Time

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Daytona Alternatives In 2026

This comparison rounds up five strong substitutes for the Rolex Daytona, especially for buyers frustrated by availability and high secondary-market pricing. It highlights options spanning different aesthetics and price points, from the historically significant Omega Speedmaster Calibre 321 “Ed White” to the modern, high-beat Zenith Chronomaster Sport. The list also includes the aviation-leaning Breitling Chronomat B01 42, the more attainable Tudor Black Bay Chrono, and a budget-friendly Seiko Prospex Speedtimer Solar Chronograph. The overall takeaway is that there are plenty of credible chronograph choices that deliver distinctive design and strong specs without chasing a Daytona.

Bring a Loupe: A Five-Digit “Inverted Six” Rolex Daytona, A Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir, A Omega Chronographe de Ville Sport, And More

This edition of the column spotlights a mix of notable and collectible watches, led by a five-digit “Inverted Six” Rolex Daytona with small but meaningful design cues that collectors prize. It also features a Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir powered by a movement associated with celebrated independent makers, plus an Omega Chronographe de Ville Sport that represents a rarer, understated side of vintage Omega. A “Strays” section adds additional pieces that deserve attention without full deep dives, including a vintage Heuer Autavia and an Eberhard Scafograf 300 with familiar dive-watch vibes. The article also flags a cautionary example—an Omega “Ed White” Speedmaster with a relumed dial—underscoring how condition can make or break value.

Clash of the Titans: A Comprehensive Guide to Blancpain vs. Jaeger-LeCoultre - Quill & Pad

This head-to-head guide compares Blancpain and Jaeger-LeCoultre through their histories, signature models, and the philosophies that shaped each brand. Blancpain is framed as deeply rooted in traditional craftsmanship and long-form watchmaking heritage, while Jaeger-LeCoultre is positioned as a major engineering force in modern Swiss horology with a long track record of movement innovation. The comparison covers icons like the Fifty Fathoms and the Reverso, plus how each brand approaches movement design, testing, and user experience. Ultimately, it presents the choice as a values-driven decision: artisanal tradition and exclusivity versus innovation-forward engineering and broad technical influence.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tissot Visodate Vs. Baltic Hermétique — The Battle Of The Mid-Century Everyday Watches

This comparison pits two mid-century-inspired daily watches against each other, emphasizing how small spec and design differences can change the “best choice” depending on lifestyle. The Tissot Visodate is presented as the more classic, refined option, pairing a Swiss Powermatic 80 movement with a date complication and practical everyday build. The Baltic Hermétique leans more playful and colorful, framed as a fun, casual watch that trades some traditional credentials for personality and vacation-ready ease. The piece encourages readers to weigh practicality versus charm, and closes by inviting a vote—reinforcing how personal everyday-watch preferences really are.

Skeletons in the closet: our pick of the top six watches with openworked dials

This roundup focuses on six watches with openworked dials, clarifying the difference between true skeletonization and openworking while showcasing examples that mix both approaches. It highlights how openworked designs can still preserve legibility and stability, even while revealing movement architecture. Standouts include pieces that emphasize different strengths—balanced readability, artistic presentation, or outright mechanical theater—spanning a wide range of budgets. Taken together, the selection argues that openworked watches can be more than visual gimmicks, offering serious engineering and design variety from accessible to ultra-high-end.

Buying Guide: The Joy Of The Snap, With 5 Of Today’s Finest Retrograde Watches

This buying guide spotlights five modern retrograde watches, emphasizing the appeal of “snapping” hands and arcs that add motion and drama to time displays. It ranges from highly exclusive, complication-heavy pieces to more accessible interpretations, showing how the retrograde idea can be applied to seconds, minutes, dates, or full calendar indications. The selections are presented as a blend of artistry and mechanical ingenuity, with each watch using retrograde layouts to create a different personality on the wrist. The result is a focused look at why retrograde complications remain such a captivating niche for enthusiasts and collectors.

Editorial Time

Is Timothée Chalamet How Indie Watches Enter Pop Culture?

The Oscars continue to function as a major stage for watch culture, and this piece argues that Timothée Chalamet’s choices are especially influential right now. His decision to wear an Urban Jürgensen UJ-2—alongside a broader pattern of choosing independent brands like Simon Brette and Akrivia—signals a shift away from the usual mainstream luxury playbook. Because of his rising celebrity and cultural reach, the article suggests he could help move high-end indie watches into a wider pop-cultural conversation the way certain brands benefited from past celebrity adoption. It also raises the question of whether his interest is deeply personal or primarily stylistic, and how that distinction could shape indie watches’ mainstream acceptance.

According To Ariel: What Market Fragmentation Means For Wristwatch Consumers & Fans

This editorial argues that the watch industry has become increasingly fragmented as older unifying structures—like traditional trade shows and centralized retail/media pipelines—have weakened. It points to the rise of direct-to-consumer selling and more flexible manufacturing options as forces that let brands pursue highly individualized strategies, accelerating the splintering of audiences and communities. For consumers, that shift creates more variety and innovation, but also makes it harder to keep up and easier to get lost without reliable third-party validation. The piece ultimately frames today’s market as an environment that rewards careful navigation, as the connections that once guided enthusiasts are less consistent than they used to be.

Watching Time - Videos

5 Iconic Watches & Affordable Alternatives - YouTube - Six Inch Wrists Talks Watches

This video spotlights five well-known, iconic watches and pairs each one with a more budget-friendly alternative that captures a similar look or purpose. Along the way, it explains what makes each original model historically or culturally significant in watch collecting. By comparing luxury pieces with attainable substitutes, it’s aimed at helping viewers make smarter buying decisions without giving up the design cues they love. The format is geared toward both enthusiasts and newer buyers who want strong style and solid value.

Watch Now

Kalshi Paid Me to Make This Video. What I Found Surprised Me. - YouTube - The Watch Bros

In this sponsored video, the creator digs into what they learned while partnering with Kalshi, a platform that lets people trade on economic event outcomes. The focus is on the unexpected findings from using or evaluating the platform, and how that experience changed the creator’s perspective. It also reflects on what sponsorships can reveal when you go beyond the surface and actually investigate what’s being promoted. Overall, it’s positioned as a candid look at the intersection of content, money, and financial products.

Watch Now

Titanium Vacheron Constantin, Diamond “Billionaire” Corum, and more! | What’s On My Desk - YouTube - Luxury Bazaar

This episode showcases a set of high-end, attention-grabbing luxury watches, including a titanium Vacheron Constantin and a diamond-heavy “Billionaire” Corum. The video frames these pieces as both feats of craftsmanship and clear status symbols within modern watch culture. Viewers get a closer look at the design details, materials, and what differentiates these models in the market. It’s geared toward collectors who enjoy seeing rare, extravagant watches up close.

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One of the Most Capable Watches I have Ever Seen and Its Completely Unnecessary - YouTube - WatchChris

This video reviews a highly capable, feature-packed watch that pushes the boundaries of what a wristwatch can do. The commentary leans into the contrast between impressive engineering and questionable everyday necessity, using that tension as part of the entertainment. It walks through the watch’s functions and overall design while reflecting on the broader trend toward extreme multi-function products. The result is both a review and a critique of “because we can” innovation in watch and gadget culture.

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What Watch Should You Buy Next? Collectors Ask CQ - YouTube - The 1916 Company

This video is structured around collectors’ questions, offering guidance on what to consider when choosing a next watch purchase. It touches on collecting strategy, current tastes and trends, and how to evaluate options across brands and styles. The overall aim is to help enthusiasts narrow the field and make choices that fit their interests rather than chasing hype. It’s positioned as a practical, discussion-driven installment for people actively planning their next buy.

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British Watchmakers’ Day 2026: 10 Watches, 5 Categories, 1 Winner — Vote in Comments - YouTube - Time+Tide Watches

This video centers on British Watchmakers’ Day 2026, presenting ten watches across five categories in a competitive, bracket-like format. The hook is audience participation: viewers are invited to vote in the comments to help determine the overall winner. Along the way, it highlights the range of craftsmanship and ideas coming from British watchmaking today. It functions as both a showcase and a community event built around engagement.

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A Regulator That Rethinks the Display — And It’s Under $5,000 - YouTube - Windup Watch Shop

This video introduces a regulator-style watch concept that aims to rethink how time is displayed, while keeping the price under $5,000. It focuses on what makes the layout and display approach feel different from conventional designs and why that matters for wearability and daily use. The presentation is framed as an exploration of a fresh idea in an enthusiast-friendly price band. Overall, it’s meant to give viewers a clear sense of the design logic and practical appeal.

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FAKE and STOLEN Watches Exposed! The Dark Side of the Watch Industry - YouTube - The Honest Watch Dealer

This video tackles the counterfeit and stolen-watch ecosystem and how it impacts buyers, brands, and the broader watch market. It explains how fakes make their way into circulation and why even experienced shoppers can be misled. The discussion also connects the problem to the operational and reputational burden placed on legitimate watchmakers trying to combat fraud. The takeaway is a push for more vigilance and informed purchasing to reduce harm across the industry.

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Inside Rick Ross’s Watch Collection… “It’s Not About Price” (Exclusive) | My Collection S1:E5 - YouTube - WatchGuys

This episode tours Rick Ross’s watch collection, emphasizing his belief that the meaning of a watch goes beyond its price tag. It highlights the breadth of the collection and the craftsmanship and individuality behind the pieces he chooses. Ross discusses how each watch connects to personal identity and life experiences, framing collecting as storytelling rather than flexing. The video aims to give viewers a more human perspective on what luxury watches can represent.

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So... Rolex called... New watch time - YouTube - Britt Pearce

This video revolves around new Rolex-watch excitement, using the premise of “Rolex called” to explore the moment of getting access to a coveted purchase. It discusses the appeal of Rolex through design details, brand legacy, and the emotional pull of acquiring a new piece in today’s market. The content is geared toward both enthusiasts and aspirational buyers who follow Rolex releases and the buying experience. Overall, it’s positioned as a blend of commentary, reaction, and watch-focused storytelling.

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Top 4 Watches for $1,000,000 - YouTube

This video spotlights four watches priced at roughly one million dollars each, focusing on what sets ultra-high-end pieces apart. It emphasizes craftsmanship, engineering, and prestige, presenting the watches as both technical achievements and luxury objects. The presentation is designed to be visually engaging while explaining why these watches are considered top-tier investments or collector trophies. It serves as a tour of the extreme end of the watch world for enthusiasts who enjoy aspirational horology.

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“We Had Watches in the Safe…” Ex Rolex Manager Exposes the Truth - YouTube - Casual Watch Reviews

In this video, a former Rolex manager shares insider perspective on how Rolex handles availability and the mechanics of supply and demand. It challenges common assumptions about scarcity and exclusivity, using anecdotes to explain how distribution and customer expectations are managed. The discussion is aimed at watch enthusiasts who follow Rolex culture closely and want a more realistic view of how the brand operates behind the scenes. Overall, it’s framed as an eye-opening conversation about what buying (and trying to buy) Rolex can really look like.

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BuyingTime at Auction

A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com

[Friday’s auction watch, the 2025 Rolex Datejust 41 Smooth / Blue / Oyster (126300-0001) - was bid to $11,000 and sold for $11,000.

2026 Rolex Perpetual 1908 39 Platinum / Ice Blue (52506-0002)

Auction Report: Platinum Restraint, Ice-Cold Confidence

There is something quietly subversive about the Rolex Perpetual 1908 Platinum Ice Blue 52506-0002. In a market still addicted to sports watches masquerading as investment vehicles, Rolex has done the unthinkable: it built a dress watch—and then made it matter.

Introduced as part of Rolex’s modern reinterpretation of classical horology, the 1908 line nods directly to the brand’s founding year, a subtle reminder that long before ceramic bezels and waiting lists, Rolex was in the business of refined, time-only elegance. The platinum execution, paired with the signature ice-blue dial reserved exclusively for the brand’s most precious metal pieces, elevates this reference into a different category altogether—less Daytona, more Philippe Dufour in spirit, if not execution. The guilloché rice-grain motif radiating from the small seconds register at six o’clock adds a level of texture and depth rarely seen in contemporary Rolex production, a deliberate shift toward traditional watchmaking codes.

Under the hood sits the relatively new caliber 7140, a self-winding movement with approximately 66 hours of power reserve, visible through an exhibition caseback—another break from Rolex orthodoxy and a signal that the brand is willing to show its work when it suits the narrative. This is not just a dress watch; it’s Rolex trying to reassert credibility in a segment it largely abandoned for decades.

From a valuation standpoint, the numbers tell a familiar story. Retail sits in the low-$30,000 range, but the secondary market is already doing what it does—pushing clean examples into the mid-$40,000s and well beyond depending on condition and completeness. That spread is not accidental. Platinum Rolex watches, particularly those with ice-blue dials, have historically carried an under-the-radar premium among collectors who prefer discretion over flash. This is not a watch for the wrist-check crowd. It’s for the person who knows exactly what it is—and doesn’t need to explain it.

The example crossing the block here is pre-owned but clean where it matters, with excellent dial, hands, and crystal, and only minor wear to the case and strap. Full set, with box, papers, literature, and hangtags, which in this segment is less about resale optics and more about completeness of ownership. This is a watch you keep, not flip—at least in theory.

As the auction closes at noon today (March 23, 2026), the question is not whether it will sell, but who shows up. The 1908 is still early in its lifecycle, which means price discovery is ongoing. It lacks the decades of mythology that underpin something like a Calatrava or a vintage Vacheron, but it compensates with something Rolex rarely offers: restraint. And in today’s market, restraint might be the most undervalued complication of all.

If Rolex sports models are about status, the 1908 is about taste. And taste, unlike hype, tends to age well.

Current bid: $41,500

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BuyingTime Daily - March 20, 2026

Fri, 20 Mar 2026 10:15:57 GMT

Go to our Live News Site

Time Graphing today’s watch universe

Time Graphing Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe for March 20, 2026 has a little of everything: geopolitics, craft obsession, smart product launches, and the usual reminder that the watch world can discuss guilloché in one breath and mall traffic in the next. The biggest mood-shift story comes out of Dubai, where the luxury trade is feeling the strain of the U.S.-Israel-Iran war. In a city built in part on confidence, spectacle, and shoppers who like their spending environments calm and gleaming, quieter boutiques and delayed shipments are not exactly ideal. It is a useful reminder that even the highest end of the watch and jewelry business is still tethered to real-world instability, no matter how polished the storefront.

On the feature side, today’s reading leans heavily into substance over hype. Kari Voutilainen comes off exactly as one would hope: serious about handcraft, serious about control, and serious about preserving skills that much of the industry would probably rather convert into a marketing slogan. The look at L.Leroy reinforces the enduring appeal of rarity and bespoke watchmaking with a long historical shadow, while the Christopher Ward profile shows how far a modern direct-to-consumer brand can go when it decides that “good value” does not have to mean “boring.” Michel Nieto’s vision for Haute Horlogerie Dominique Renaud rounds things out with a broader industry argument that feels timely: great watches do not emerge from nowhere, and protecting the supplier ecosystem may matter just as much as the next headline complication.

The biggest new-watch talking point belongs to Christopher Ward, which unveils its new Calibre CW-002 inside the C63 Sealander True GMT. A true traveler GMT with a 120-hour power reserve and COSC certification is not a casual flex, especially from a brand that has made a habit of punching above its price class. Citizen celebrates 50 years of Eco-Drive with a handsome green-dial anniversary edition that sounds thoughtful rather than lazy, which is not always guaranteed in the commemorative-watch industrial complex. Hanhart brings its 417 into titanium with desert-pilot energy, Maen goes compact and culturally specific with its Mahjong-inspired Brooklyn 36, Squale leans into vintage proportions with a new 37mm diver, Timex delivers a NASA piece that apparently has more charm than certain limited-edition moonshot legends, and Unimatic does what Unimatic does best by making titanium utility feel exclusive and cool.

The review section keeps the pace up nicely. The Dryden Chrono Diver Gen 2 looks like an appealing mass-market play for anyone who wants vintage dive-chrono flavor without needing to refinance a guest bedroom. The Louis Moinet Speed of Sound goes in the opposite direction, blending a vintage Valjoux base with meteorite and guilloché in a package that sounds delightfully unconcerned with understatement. Meanwhile, Nordic Marine Instruments continues the honorable tradition of saying, in effect, what if a moonphase were actually rugged? That Lunør Atlantic Blue sounds like one of the more interesting wearable-complication stories in the affordable tier.

Elsewhere, the calendar keeps humming. The 24 Karat Club’s return to the Waldorf Astoria adds a bit of old-school industry glamour, while Hands On Horology 2026 sounds like exactly the sort of enthusiast event people claim they want more of: tactile, conversational, brand-rich, and not overly embalmed by trade-show formality. In other words, a place where watch people can do what they do best, which is stare at wrists and call it community building.

The videos to watch today are especially strong if you are in the mood for equal parts aspiration and argument. There is plenty of practical browsing material, from dress-watch picks at different budgets to value-driven takes on which brands deserve your money and which apparently deserve a polite financial restraining order. Christopher Ward gets extra screen time thanks to its new in-house true GMT, while broader collector psychology gets a workout through discussions of grail-watch ownership, resale value, and whether iconic watches really earn their reputations. On the auction front, Thursday’s Roger Dubuis Velvet Blossom reached $12,250 but did not meet reserve, which is auction-speak for nice try, not today. That leaves the spotlight on today’s featured lot, the 2025 Rolex Datejust 41 blue dial ref. 126300-0001, framed in the auction report as “Blue-Chip Simplicity,” a title that fits because this is exactly the kind of unworn full-set Rolex that does not need theatrics to attract attention.

Overall, today’s watch universe feels unusually balanced. There is stress at the macro level, yes, but also plenty of evidence that the industry still knows how to produce beauty, utility, narrative, and the occasional titanium object of desire. Which is to say: the world may be tense, but the watch world still insists on meeting it with hand-finishing, power reserves, and very strong opinions about case proportions.

–Michael Wolf

News Time

In Dubai, the World’s Luxury Brands Face a Wartime Crisis

Luxury retailers in Dubai are being hit hard as the U.S.-Israel-Iran war disrupts tourism and everyday consumer confidence, leaving once-crowded shopping destinations noticeably quieter. With strikes affecting critical infrastructure and high-profile areas, the sense of safety that helped fuel luxury spending is being tested in real time. Shoppers who do venture out are facing disruptions like delayed shipments and reduced availability, even as some try to maintain a sense of normalcy. Analysts warn that a prolonged conflict could cut luxury sales dramatically, though the city is also projecting long-term confidence through continued development plans.

Feature Time

Visiting Kari Voutilainen

Kari Voutilainen blends deeply traditional craft with modern capability across his Fleurier workshop and mountain atelier, producing nearly all components in-house to maintain total control over quality. A key part of that mission is preserving hand guilloché, strengthened by his acquisition of Brodbeck Guillochage, where intricate dial patterns are still cut by hand. The piece highlights how painstaking finishing—anglage, black polishing, and dial work—drives both beauty and longevity in his watches. It also emphasizes Voutilainen’s client-first philosophy, where transparency and personal relationships are inseparable from the value of the work.

The Unique Creations of L.Leroy

L.Leroy’s story spans centuries of high ambition in watchmaking, from grand complications made for royalty to marine chronometers that supported exploration. The article frames the modern maison as a maker defined by rarity and individuality, leaning into limited series and bespoke commissions that treat each watch as a singular object. It underscores how pieces like minute repeaters and tourbillons are not just technical feats, but expressions of artistic intent through materials, design, and handcraft. Ultimately, the long legacy is presented as a through-line: turning timekeeping into an enduring, personal narrative.

The Diverse Universe of Christopher Ward

Christopher Ward’s rise is portrayed as a direct-to-consumer success built on delivering strong design and engineering at prices that feel rational for the quality. Strategic partnerships helped the brand elevate its watchmaking, enabling increasingly ambitious projects while keeping accessibility at the center. The summary spotlights key models that define the range—from the chiming Bel Canto to integrated-bracelet sports pieces and modernized dive watches—each positioned as a chapter in the brand’s broader story. The through-line is a commitment to thoughtful, practical innovation that invites a wider audience into enthusiast-grade watchmaking.

Michel Nieto, Haute Horlogerie Dominique Renaud CEO

Michel Nieto outlines a big, ecosystem-driven vision for Haute Horlogerie Dominique Renaud, aiming to build a new generation of high-end watchmaking grounded in innovation and craft. The Renaud-Tixier initiative is framed around meaningful technical progress, including a micro-rotor movement designed to boost efficiency and enable an architectural, finishing-forward presentation. Beyond product, Nieto stresses the importance of supporting specialized suppliers and small workshops, suggesting the future of haute horlogerie depends on protecting that broader network. The piece closes on the idea that market recovery is secondary to staying aligned with clients through real human connection and trust.

The Latest Time

Christopher Ward

Christopher Ward debuts Calibre CW-002 and the new C63 Sealander True GMT

Christopher Ward introduces its Calibre CW-002, an in-house movement built for a true traveler GMT experience, letting you jump the local hour hand independently for real-world usability on the road. The movement keeps a slim profile while adding substantial upgrades and a standout 120-hour power reserve, with COSC chronometer certification and elevated finishing details. The new C63 Sealander True GMT pairs that engine with a 40.5mm “Light-Catcher” steel case and a multi-piece dial that includes a power reserve indicator. Pricing is about $4,704 USD on bracelet (EUR 4,090) or about $4,543 USD on rubber (EUR 3,950).

Citizen

The Citizen Eco-Drive 50th Anniversary Edition

Citizen marks 50 years of Eco-Drive with a limited edition in its flagship line, pairing modern high-accuracy quartz performance with an artisanal washi-paper dial dyed in a deep green meant to signal permanence. The Super Titanium case keeps the watch light but extremely durable, while the Cal.A060 brings strong specs like a perpetual calendar, self-correcting hands, and an 18-month reserve in darkness. Limited to 650 pieces, it’s positioned as a technical and design-forward celebration rather than a simple commemorative colorway. The price is $3,100 USD.

Hanhart

Hanhart Introduces the 417 TI Desert Pilot Limited Edition | WatchTime

Hanhart brings its historic 417 chronograph into titanium for the first time, using Grade 5 titanium to deliver a lighter, more modern take while keeping the tool-watch DNA intact. Offered in 39mm and 42mm, the watch uses a sand-colored dial and classic bicompax layout under a domed sapphire crystal, leaning into an instrument aesthetic rather than glossy luxury. Inside is a hand-wound flyback movement based on the Sellita AMT5100, with at least 58 hours of power reserve and added shock protection for durability. Retail is $4,517 USD (including VAT).

Maen

Maen x Horoverse Brooklyn 36 Mahjong Limited Edition

This limited Brooklyn 36 collaboration uses Mahjong as the core design inspiration, aiming to capture the game’s cultural resonance and the way it connects communities across generations and geographies. The watch leans into the theme with color cues from Mahjong sets, Traditional Chinese calendar indications, and custom details like a special date wheel timed to the Lunar New Year. It’s sized at 36mm in steel and runs on a Miyota 9122 automatic movement, with packaging that includes an authentic hand-carved Mahjong tile and an illustrated history of the game. The price is about $1,034 USD (EUR 899), and ordering opens in a 24-hour window starting March 22, 2026.

Squale

A Legend is Born: Squale Just Dropped a New 37mm Diver

Squale extends its modern momentum with the Sub-37 Legend, a 37mm diver designed to channel the proportions and character of classic mid-century tool watches while keeping modern build quality. The matte black dial and sapphire glass-box crystal prioritize legibility, reinforced by a warm-toned lume treatment for low-light visibility. A 316L steel case, screw-down crown, and 300m water resistance keep it firmly in serious-dive-watch territory, while the unidirectional bezel underscores its functional intent. No price was provided in the database entry.

Timex

I Might Like This Timex More Than Any Limited Edition Speedmaster

The Q Timex NASA is framed as a restrained, well-executed tribute to Apollo 17 that focuses more on design coherence than on loud co-branding. Its 40mm case, heavily domed acrylic crystal, and tapered flat-link bracelet lean hard into vintage styling, while the tri-compax layout is used for calendar functions rather than traditional chronograph timing. Small touches—like the “Blue Marble” caseback—add charm without becoming gimmicky, even if the tachymeter-style bezel reads as decorative more than functional. Price is $249 USD on bracelet or $229 USD on leather strap.

Unimatic

UNIMATIC Modello Tre U3S-T-Automobili Amos X SEASE—All Titanium, All Purpose

This collaboration ties Unimatic to Automobili Amos and SEASE, resulting in a purpose-built titanium chronograph that emphasizes rugged clarity and a clean, utilitarian aesthetic. The 40mm sandblasted titanium case and 300m water resistance lean into “all-conditions” credibility, while orange accents on the titanium-gray dial add high-visibility character. Production is extremely limited at 30 pieces, with each watch numbered and delivered with co-branded kit to reinforce its exclusivity. The price is about $5,187 USD (€4,510; listed as approximately $5,200 in the entry).

Wearing Time - Reviews

Dryden

The Dryden Chrono Diver Gen 2 Is A Vintage-Inspired Dive Chronograph For The Masses

The Dryden Chrono Diver Gen 2 takes a vintage-leaning dive chronograph look and updates it with practical refinements aimed at everyday wear. It comes in multiple variants (including Black Vintage, Blue Panda, and PVD Vintage) and uses a 42mm steel case with 100m water resistance, plus a cleaned-up case design that recesses the chronograph pushers for a sleeker profile. Inside is a Seiko VK63 meca-quartz movement, giving quartz accuracy with a more mechanical-style chronograph feel, and it’s positioned as an accessible entry into the category. The pricing noted is $450 USD for stainless versions and $475 USD for the PVD version.

Louis Moinet

Louis Moinet Speed of Sound

The Speed of Sound is presented as a historically anchored chronograph that still feels contemporary, built around a vintage Valjoux 88 while leaning heavily into craft and material intrigue. A hand-guilloché dial by Yann von Kaenel is paired with three meteorite slices, creating a design that aims for legibility and elegance rather than modern excess. The 40.7mm Grade 5 titanium case keeps it lightweight and modern, while the exhibition back spotlights the engraved, hand-wound movement and its 40-hour power reserve. Overall, it reads as a tribute to Louis Moinet’s chronograph legacy that balances artistry with function.

Nordic Marine

Nordic Marine Instruments Lunør Atlantic Blue Review

This review focuses on the Lunør Atlantic Blue’s unusual pairing of a moonphase complication with a sturdy, sports-watch build. It uses a Miyota 9015 with a custom moonphase module designed to track the lunar cycle accurately, and it leans into visual drama with a crescent window plus the “Måneblik” aperture and a glowing moonphase disc. The case is described as muscular and angular at 39mm, with 100m water resistance, making it a realistic daily wearer rather than a delicate complication piece. Pricing in the entry is $899 USD, with availability starting March 25, 2026.

Event Time

24 Karat Club returns to Waldorf Astoria New York for Landmark Annual Banquet

The 24 Karat Club of New York held its Annual Banquet at the historic Waldorf Astoria on March 16, 2026, bringing together leaders from across the jewelry and watch world. The return to this long-associated venue was positioned as both a celebration of legacy and a marker of continuity for an industry built on craftsmanship and tradition. With a mix of classic banquet elements and modern entertainment, the evening aimed to honor the past while reinforcing present-day relationships and recognition. Chairman Jeffrey Cohen framed it as a new chapter that still stays rooted in the club’s heritage and its role as an industry cornerstone.

Everything You Need to Know About Hands On Horology 2026

Hands On Horology returns June 13, 2026 at Protein Studios in Shoreditch, featuring 45+ brands spanning British microbrands to major Swiss names. The event is designed to be highly interactive, with opportunities to handle watches in natural light, speak directly with brand representatives, and even buy pieces on-site, including event exclusives. Extras like complimentary drinks, professional wrist shots, and live dial customizations are meant to make it feel more like a collector festival than a standard trade showcase. Ticket sales open April 28 (early-bird April 3), with morning/afternoon sessions and perks including a welcome drink, a limited edition print, and access to a silent auction for a customized watch.

Watching Time - Videos

My Favourite Dress Watches at Each Price Point - YouTube - Chisholm Hunter

This video curates dress-watch picks across multiple budget tiers, aiming to help viewers match a more formal watch to both their style and spending comfort zone. It frames dress watches as an exercise in balance—clean design, versatility, and the details that make a watch feel “right” with tailored clothing. Along the way, it emphasizes comparing craftsmanship and quality markers at each price level rather than shopping purely on brand name. The overall takeaway is a practical shortlist approach: decide your budget first, then evaluate the watches that best deliver elegance and long-term wearability within it.

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The Truth About Living With a Grail Watch - YouTube - Wrist Enthusiast

This video digs into what “grail watch” ownership is actually like once the initial excitement fades and the watch becomes part of daily life. It explores the emotional side—pride, meaning, and satisfaction—alongside the practical realities of maintenance, care, and the anxiety that can come with wearing something precious. It also challenges common assumptions by focusing on the lived experience: how you balance enjoyment with protecting the watch from damage. The discussion ultimately frames grail ownership as an ongoing relationship, shaped by habits, mindset, and the community interactions that come with wearing a recognizable piece.

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A Racey Patek Calendar & A little gift from Ed Sheeran | Drop #269 - YouTube - Subdial

This episode centers on an eye-catching Patek Philippe calendar watch, unpacking what makes it stand out from a design and functionality perspective. It layers in a pop-culture angle by featuring a gift from Ed Sheeran, using that moment to connect high watchmaking with contemporary celebrity and personal storytelling. The video’s appeal is the contrast: technical luxury watch detail paired with a relatable “how did this happen?” narrative hook. Overall, it’s positioned as both a watch-enthusiast breakdown and an entertaining slice of modern watch culture.

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SJX Podcast: Watches & Wonders Wish List - YouTube - SJX Watches

This episode previews the Watches & Wonders landscape through a wish-list lens, spotlighting the releases and themes enthusiasts are most eager to see. It leans into anticipation—what looks likely, what would be surprising, and which brands or models feel poised to define the event. Along the way, it offers broader context on design and innovation trends that tend to surface around the show. The result is a discussion built to help viewers calibrate expectations and sharpen what they’ll be watching for when the event unfolds.

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5 “Iconic” Watches That Deserve the Hype… And 5 That Don’t - YouTube - Britt Pearce

This video compares ten watches through a simple but provocative filter: which “iconic” models genuinely earn their reputation, and which ones coast on marketing or groupthink. It highlights the qualities that tend to justify true icon status—craftsmanship, design coherence, cultural relevance, and enduring desirability. On the other side, it critiques watches that may be over-celebrated relative to what they deliver in daily wear or long-term significance. The format is meant to sharpen judgment and encourage viewers to separate personal taste and real merit from hype cycles.

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5 Watch Brands ROBBING You Blind And 5 That Are Worth The Money - YouTube - The Watch Bros

This video takes a value-focused approach, calling out brands it believes charge premiums that aren’t justified by quality, engineering, or overall ownership experience. It then contrasts those with brands positioned as delivering strong “bang for the buck,” focusing on what you actually get for the money—materials, finishing, movement choices, and reputation. The core idea is to push viewers toward more intentional spending by understanding where pricing is driven by substance versus perception. It’s framed as a practical guide for avoiding regret purchases in a market where branding can heavily distort value.

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WHAT HAVE I DONE! - I BOUGHT A 36MM ROLEX DAY-DATE!! - YouTube - Watch Eric

This video follows the emotional arc of buying a 36mm Rolex Day-Date, emphasizing the mix of excitement, disbelief, and “did I really do this?” that often comes with a major luxury purchase. It treats the watch as more than an object—framing it as a milestone and a symbol tied to personal goals and identity. The narrative also touches on the weight of the decision, including the financial and psychological implications of owning a high-end status piece. Viewers can expect a personal, story-driven perspective on what it feels like to finally take the leap on a watch with real cultural gravity.

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Inside Christopher Ward’s First In-House True GMT | Interview with CEO Mike France - YouTube - Casual Watch Reviews

This interview explores Christopher Ward’s first in-house true GMT, using CEO Mike France’s perspective to explain what makes the watch significant for the brand and for travelers who care about real GMT functionality. It highlights the design and engineering decisions behind the watch, positioning it as a step toward greater in-house capability and long-term horological credibility. France also emphasizes the brand’s attempt to keep the product aligned with customer expectations—delivering meaningful innovation without losing the value proposition that built its audience. The broader theme is the tension modern brands face: scaling up technical ambition while staying accessible and coherent.

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A Totally Unexpected Release from Christopher Ward - YouTube - WatchChris

This video spotlights an unexpected new Christopher Ward release, leaning into the surprise factor and what makes it feel different from the brand’s more predictable drops. It frames the launch as a moment of momentum for the brand—something likely to catch both existing fans and casual observers off guard. The focus is on the novelty and intrigue of the release rather than a heavily structured technical breakdown, with the goal of getting viewers to see what’s new firsthand. Overall, it positions the watch as a conversation starter: a fresh move that signals ongoing experimentation and innovation.

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Fratello Talks: Does Resale Value Affect How Much You Enjoy a Watch? - YouTube - Fratello

This episode examines whether resale value quietly shapes how much people enjoy their watches, especially when the market rewards or punishes specific models. It dives into the psychology of ownership—how “investment thinking” can amplify pride and security, but also introduce stress or hesitation about actually wearing the watch. The discussion broadens out to other sources of enjoyment like design, craftsmanship, and sentimental attachment, questioning what truly sustains satisfaction over time. The takeaway is a prompt to reflect on motivations: are you collecting for personal meaning, market validation, or a blend of both?

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ON TIME: How AI Is Changing the Way You Buy Watches W/ @Chrono24Official - YouTube - ᴢᴇʀᴏ ᴛᴏ ꜱɪxᴛʏ

This conversation with Chrono24 explores how AI is reshaping the watch-buying journey by improving discovery, personalization, and decision support for shoppers. It frames AI as a tool for translating preferences and behavior into better recommendations, potentially reducing friction in a category that can be intimidating and information-heavy. The video also considers the seller side, where data-driven insights can sharpen how platforms understand demand and serve inventory. Overall, it paints a picture of a luxury market moving toward more customized, tech-assisted buying—without losing the emotional pull that makes watch collecting compelling.

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Talking Time - Podcasts

Scottish Watches Podcast #762 : Shooting For The Moon - All The Latest New Watches - Scottish Watches

This episode ranges widely across the watch landscape, moving from accessible releases to ultra-high-end complications. It opens with the Isotope Moonshot Chronograph Thunderclap and uses it to talk through practical technical elements like telemeter scales, then jumps upmarket for a deeper look at Marco Lang’s Seven Spheres Tourbillon. Along the way it covers broader industry movement—leadership changes at TAG Heuer and creative collaborations like Joshua Vides’ G-Shock designs—before returning to a mix of complication-heavy highlights and more attainable picks from brands like CIGA Design and Elliot Brown. The conversation also frames these releases within the wider calendar of watch culture, touching on British Watchmakers Day and the lead-up to Watches and Wonders.

Listen Now >

Hairspring: Episode 90: Kari Voutilainen

Erik and Max sit down with Kari Voutilainen for a wide-ranging conversation about building an independent brand and what still makes watchmaking exciting at this stage of his career. The episode explores the realities of independence—creative freedom, constraints, and the pressures smaller makers face—while also touching on his views around innovation (or the lack of it) among larger brands. A key thread is his involvement in reviving Urban Jürgensen, using that effort to discuss stewardship, continuity, and what it takes to keep a legacy meaningful today. The show rounds out with pointers to additional context around his work, notable models, and related industry moments that help place his perspective in the current landscape.

Listen Now >

BuyingTime at Auction

A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com

[Thursday’s auction watch, the 2025 Roger Dubuis Velvet Blossom Automatic 36 Rose Gold / Diamond-Set / MOP/Diamond-Set with Flowers and Leaves / Strap - Limited to 88 Pieces (RDDBVE0049) - was bid to $12,250 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]

2025 Rolex Datejust 41 Smooth / Blue / Oyster (126300-0001)

Auction Report: Blue-Chip Simplicity

There are louder watches in the world than the 2025 Rolex Datejust 41 reference 126300-0001, but there are not many that do “future classic” better. This one gets the formula exactly right: 41mm of Oystersteel, smooth bezel, bright blue dial, Oyster bracelet, and the automatic caliber 3235 inside. In unworn condition with box, papers and hangtags, it lands in that sweet spot collectors and everyday buyers both understand immediately. This is not a hype watch pretending to be practical. It is a practical watch that, by being so clean and so unmistakably Rolex, has become a kind of low-drama status object.

The Datejust has one of the deepest benches in Swiss watchmaking. Introduced in 1945 as Rolex’s original date-displaying automatic wristwatch with an instantly changing date, it has spent decades doing something few luxury products manage: evolving without losing its identity. The modern Datejust 41 is the contemporary expression of that long lineage. It is bigger than the classic 36, more wearable for many modern buyers, and in the smooth-bezel Oyster configuration it feels especially sharp and understated. No fluted bezel flash, no two-tone flourish, no attempt to dress itself up as something it is not. Just a very confident steel Rolex with one of the brand’s best dial colors.

That blue dial is a big part of the appeal. Rolex blue has a way of making otherwise disciplined designs feel a little more alive, and on the Datejust 41 it gives the watch enough pop without tipping into showiness. Paired with the smooth bezel, it makes this reference feel a touch more contemporary and slightly sportier than its fluted siblings. Put differently, this is the Datejust for someone who wants the pedigree and polish of a Rolex dress-sport crossover, but does not feel any need to announce that fact from across the restaurant.

From a value standpoint, this is the kind of watch the market tends to respect even when it does not go crazy over it. Rolex lists the Oystersteel Datejust 41 ref. 126300 at $8,950 in the U.S., while secondary-market asking prices for unworn blue-dial examples have generally been sitting well above that, often in the low-to-mid five figures depending on configuration, year, and completeness. That does not make it a moonshot speculation piece, and frankly that is part of the charm. The Datejust 41 is less about fireworks than resilience. It is a steady performer in the Rolex universe, supported by broad buyer recognition, easy wearability, and the simple fact that nearly everyone can picture themselves owning one.

Mechanically, the caliber 3235 gives the watch a solid modern backbone. It offers Rolex’s Chronergy escapement, a 70-hour power reserve, and the no-nonsense dependability buyers expect from the brand. Nobody is buying a Datejust for artisanal hand-finishing or movement theatrics. They are buying it because Rolex has spent generations perfecting the art of making a luxury watch that can take daily life without becoming precious about it. That is the quiet superpower here. This watch can go to work, to dinner, on a plane, to a wedding, and back to work again without ever seeming out of place.

As an auction piece, this example has a lot going for it. The 2025 date is fresh, the condition is unworn, the full set is intact, and the blue dial is one of the strongest commercial looks in the lineup. That combination should keep bidding healthy. It is not rare in the way collectors use the word when they are trying to justify bad decisions, but it is very liquid, very wearable, and very easy to understand. In auction terms, that usually matters more than mythology. For a buyer who wants one Rolex that can cover almost every base, this is a sensible and stylish play. The auction closes at 7:40 p.m. EDT on Saturday, March 21, 2026, and this feels like exactly the sort of lot that should draw plenty of attention from bidders who want the safety of the crown without the noise of the usual suspects.

Current bid: $950

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BuyingTime Daily - March 19, 2026

Thu, 19 Mar 2026 10:15:39 GMT

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Time Graphing today’s watch universe

March 19 brings a nicely mixed snapshot of the watch world: a market that looks a bit healthier, a heritage-minded brand leaning into history, a few serious conversations about leadership and representation, and a fresh crop of new releases that prove nobody in this industry has any intention of calming down. The headline market takeaway is that February appears to have given collectors and dealers a modest reason to exhale, with the WatchCharts Overall Market Index up 0.6% and the biggest names still doing most of the heavy lifting. Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet all posted gains, but Patek Philippe especially seems to be enjoying a very good run, helped along by ongoing appetite for the Aquanaut and Nautilus families. Even better, the tone of the recovery sounds less like speculative chaos and more like actual demand, which is usually a healthier sign than a bunch of people convincing themselves a steel sports watch is better than retirement planning.

Elsewhere in industry news, Vacheron Constantin is inviting collectors to bring the old magic back with its first Concours d’Élégance dedicated to timepieces, a Geneva event that feels equal parts celebration, scholarship, and polite flex. At the same time, Wei Koh’s appointment as President of the Jury for the GPHG adds another notable leadership moment to the week, with his reflections underscoring how deeply personal this business can be for the people inside it. On a more structural level, WatchPro’s Women in Watches gathering in the U.S. highlighted the steady push toward broader representation in the American watch business, with executives and industry leaders focusing not just on visibility, but on actual pathways to leadership. Then, because the watch world always insists on reminding everyone that glamour has a dark side, the sentencing of a British Rolex trader who used his business as a front for drug dealing and money laundering offered a useful reminder that luxury watches remain attractive not only to collectors, but also to criminals with extremely bad long-term planning.

Feature coverage today adds a welcome layer of depth. Mauron Musy continues to carve out its very specific lane with technical innovation, tiny production, and a determinedly independent identity, which in 2026 still counts for a lot. Ardra Labs, meanwhile, delivers one of the more interesting genuinely new ideas of the day with The Delta Type, a GMT built to handle the half-hour and 45-minute offset realities that standard GMTs usually ignore. That is the sort of clever niche problem-solving that gives enthusiast watchmaking some life. And for anyone who likes their sparkle with a side of education, the deep look at diamond-set watches serves as a useful reminder that gem-setting at this level is not just decoration. It is engineering, patience, hand skill, and a lot of opportunities to get things wrong if you are not very, very good at your job.

As for the new watches, there is plenty to keep wrists and wallets busy. Awake expands its lacquer-dial artistry with the Atlantis Blue, which sounds like a strong candidate for the “small brand doing something genuinely beautiful” file. Breitling goes full aviation nostalgia with its Concorde-themed Navitimers and adds perpetual calendar muscle for good measure, proving once again that the brand is not allergic to going large, loud, and historically referential all at once. Delma trims down the Shell Star to a more wearable 41mm, Juha Eskola delivers an elegantly offbeat moonphase with real artisanal character, Norqain doubles down on mountain-flavored adventure watches, Out Of Order offers mother-of-pearl with Venetian personality, and Seiko refreshes the Marinemaster line with a new caliber and the kind of practical seriousness that keeps dive-watch people happily occupied for days.

The review side of the ledger is just as lively. G-Shock gets playful with the Joshua Vides collaboration, turning a rugged classic into something that looks sketched into existence. Ming continues its campaign to make restraint look expensive and poetic with the 37.04 Rose Gold Monopusher, while Unimatic shows that a stealthy little 36mm field watch can still come packed with surprising specs and attitude. The comparison piece on moonphase watches also adds a nice touch of romance to the day’s reading, surveying brands that treat the complication not just as a technical display, but as a chance to indulge in a little mechanical storytelling.

The videos are a solid cross-section of hobby energy, market chatter, and event-floor enthusiasm. The Windup Watch Fair Dallas roundup is the obvious stop for anyone wanting a quick pulse check on what enthusiasts are buzzing about in person, while Jag’s Watches offers a lively look at British Watchmakers’ Day. There is also room for collector sentiment with Watch Clyde, market forecasting with TimePieceTrading, some value-hunting with ONE Watches, and a dose of watch-adjacent humor from Justin Hast. On the audio front, the Doxa CEO interview is worth a listen for anyone interested in how legacy tool-watch brands are trying to grow sensibly in a market that is becoming more expensive and more competitive at the same time.

At auction, yesterday’s Patek Philippe Celestial made it to $128,500 but still fell far short of reserve, which tells you both how ambitious the seller was and how picky the market can be when six-figure territory is involved. Today’s featured watch takes a very different route into the spotlight with the 2025 Roger Dubuis Velvet Blossom Automatic 36, a rose-gold, diamond-set, floral, mother-of-pearl limited edition that is about as subtle as an operatic finale in a chandelier showroom. With a current bid of $5,200, it stands as today’s reminder that the watch market still has room for pieces that are less about stealth wealth and more about unapologetic spectacle. And honestly, that is probably healthier for everybody.

-Michael Wolf

News Time

March 2026 Watch Market Update

In February 2026, the WatchCharts Overall Market Index rose 0.6%, with major brands like Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet all posting similar gains. Patek Philippe showed especially strong momentum, up 16.2% year-over-year, fueled by continued demand for Aquanaut and Nautilus models. Mid-tier brands including Cartier and Omega also performed well, while Breitling saw price declines. Overall, the market appears to be strengthening on more “organic” demand rather than the speculative surge patterns of the early 2020s.

Celebrating Heritage and Timeless Elegance

Vacheron Constantin is launching its first-ever Concours d’Élégance dedicated to timepieces on November 10, 2026 in Geneva, inviting submissions of pocket and wristwatches made between 1755 and 1999. The event is positioned as a celebration of the brand’s heritage and of collectors as long-term stewards of that legacy. An expert international jury will evaluate entries on authenticity, elegance, rarity, and emotional resonance. Seven categories—from chiming watches and chronographs to Métiers d’Art and design—underscore the breadth of Vacheron’s historical output, with registration open until April 30, 2026.

GPHG President of Jury: Wei Koh

Wei Koh reflects on a 26-year journey in watchmaking, describing how the craft has given him purpose, passion, and a deep sense of community. He draws parallels to The Godfather to convey the formative relationships and defining moments that shaped his career and worldview. His appointment as President of the Jury for the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève represents a major milestone and personal honor. Koh also pays tribute to outgoing president Nicholas Foulkes and emphasizes his commitment to collaboration, creativity, and preserving traditional watchmaking for future generations.

Women in Watches: changing Representation In The US Industry

WatchPro’s Women in Watches event on March 6 brought together more than 60 senior professionals from across the American watch industry to discuss representation, visibility, and leadership pathways. The conversations highlighted women’s growing influence on both the commercial and cultural direction of the category, while also addressing persistent structural barriers. A panel including leaders from Citizen Watch America and the 1916 Company focused on the value of more diverse leadership teams. The overall takeaway centered on tangible opportunities for brands and retailers to strengthen inclusivity and better support women shaping the industry’s future.

British Rolex trader was front for drug dealing and money laundering

Bertie Payne, a luxury watch trader in South East Britain, was sentenced to 15 years in prison for leading a drug distribution and money laundering operation that used his business, About Bezels Ltd, as a front. Investigators uncovered a network moving cocaine, ketamine, and ecstasy with an estimated distribution value exceeding £800,000. During the operation, police seized 38 luxury watches—primarily Rolex—valued at more than £534,000. The assets are being handled under the Proceeds of Crime Act, with the case underscoring how high-value luxury goods can be intertwined with broader criminal enterprises.

Feature Time

Mauron Musy, under the sign of thirteen

Founded in 2013, Mauron Musy has built its reputation on technical innovation—most notably its nO-Ring system, which achieves 300m water resistance without traditional gaskets. With production around 300 pieces per year, the brand emphasizes tight retail partnerships and direct engagement with collectors, especially in Japan, the Middle East, Switzerland, and other key enthusiast markets. As it grows, Mauron Musy is leaning into storytelling around Swiss heritage, family spirit, and craft, while continuing to refine designs and expand manufacturing integration. Pricing has risen to around CHF 28,000 on average, reflecting this push upmarket and the increased in-house capabilities.

Ethical hacker turned horologist reveals first timepiece

Nava Krishnan—an ethical hacker turned horologist—has launched Ardra Labs and debuted The Delta Type, designed to solve a real-world GMT problem for Indian travelers: half-hour time-zone offsets. The watch uses a patented PAN-GMT approach so it can track two time zones even when one has a 30- or 45-minute offset, addressing gaps that standard GMT watches can’t cover. Unveiled at Mumbai Watch Week, it pairs Sellita’s SW-330 automatic GMT movement with design cues inspired by Indian architecture in a 39mm steel case with 100m water resistance. The initial run is limited to 300 pieces and priced at $2,450 on a rubber strap.

Inside Diamond-Set Watches: Craftsmanship, Stones & Settings | WatchTime

Diamond-set watches sit at the crossroads of jewelry and horology, and the piece highlights how much of their value comes from selection, design, and setting skill—not just the stones themselves. It walks through how watch diamonds are chosen (especially small stones suited to pavé) and how the setting craft—snow, invisible, and other styles—demands extreme precision to secure stones without compromising structure. The article also notes how diamond-setting has expanded beyond precious metals into materials like steel and titanium, opening the door to sportier and more versatile designs. Ultimately, the watches become showcases of technical mastery as much as decorative luxury.

The Latest Time

Awake

Awake Sơn Mài Atlantis Blue

Awake expands its Sơn Mài – Silver Leaf collection with the Atlantis Blue, a limited edition of 100 pieces featuring a fully handcrafted gradient lacquer dial inspired by ocean depths and the Atlantis myth. The dial is produced by master lacquerers in Hanoi using layered silver leaf, lacquer, and pigments in a process that takes over ten hours per dial. Power comes from the La Joux-Perret G101 automatic movement with a 68-hour reserve, paired with French-made suede straps. Price is about $2,340 (converted from €2,000).

Breitling

Breitling Launches The Navitimer Tribute To Concorde In Steel, A Perpetual Calendar In Steel And Platinum, And A Full-Platinum LE

Breitling marks the 50th anniversary of Concorde’s maiden flight with limited-edition Navitimer releases led by the Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Tribute to Concorde, featuring a dark blue dial inspired by the view from high altitude and “White Bird” contrasting sub-dials. Limited to 593 pieces, it uses the in-house B01 with a 70-hour power reserve in a 43mm case. The launch also includes Navitimer B19 Chronograph 43 Perpetual Calendar variants that combine chronograph functionality with a perpetual calendar complication. Pricing is about $37,440 (converted from €32,000) for the steel-and-platinum version and about $57,330 (converted from €49,000) for the full platinum model.

Delma

The Steel Delma Shell Star Automatic, now in 41mm

Delma updates the Shell Star Automatic into a more compact 41mm cushion-shaped steel case while keeping the bold tool-watch character intact. The watch improves ergonomics, offers 200m water resistance, and includes a unidirectional bezel plus highly legible luminous markers and hands with a date at 3 o’clock. Inside is the Sellita SW200-1 automatic running at 28,800 vph with a 41-hour power reserve. Starting price is about $1,344 on bracelet (converted from CHF 1,090) or about $1,293 on rubber (converted from CHF 1,050).

Juha Eskola

Finnish Indie Watchmaker Juha Eskola Presents the N2 Moonphase

Juha Eskola’s N2 Moonphase builds on the N2 platform with a refined 37mm case (steel or 14k yellow gold) featuring hand-hammered concave scallops and a tuxedo-style dial layout. The key change is a double moonphase display at six o’clock, replacing the earlier small-seconds execution and emphasizing the watch’s classical character. Power comes from a refurbished Longines 30L movement, finished in-house, with roughly a 36-hour reserve. Pricing is about $15,210 (converted from EUR 13,000) for steel and about $17,550 (converted from EUR 15,000) for gold, excluding VAT.

Norqain

Norqain Introduces COSC-Certified Adventure Models with Mountain DNA

Norqain expands its Adventure line with three COSC-certified 40mm models featuring a mountain-pattern dial, 200m water resistance, and a unidirectional bezel with integrated crown guards. They use the Norqain caliber N08 automatic movement with a 41-hour power reserve, visible through a sapphire caseback, and pricing runs from $3,790 to $4,120 depending on strap or bracelet. The limited Adventure Neverest 40mm Orange adds a black DLC case and compass bezel plus a gradient dial, while supporting the Butterfly Help Project with 10% of proceeds. The Neverest pricing is $4,450 on rubber or $4,990 on bracelet.

Out Of Order

The New Out Of Order Watches Casanova 38 MOP Automatic Collection

Out Of Order’s Casanova 38 MOP Automatic collection introduces three Venice-inspired models with mother-of-pearl dials (Giudecca Blue, Rialto Ember, and San Marco Ivory) in 316L steel cases with mixed brushed and polished finishing. The watches aim for everyday versatility with 100m water resistance and a Seiko NH35 automatic movement offering a 41-hour power reserve. Design details include Super-LumiNova indexes and distinctive branding touches such as a logo on the seconds hand. Price is about $702 (converted from €600), and the brand positions the line as an approachable step up in finishing and style.

Seiko

Seiko Prospex Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver HBF001 and JAMSTEC Limited Edition HBF002

Seiko’s Marinemaster 1968 Heritage Diver refresh brings two models that keep the iconic 1968 Hi-Beat 300m diver-inspired case architecture at 42.6mm and over 14mm thick. The HBF001 leans classic with a black aesthetic and updated dial details, while the JAMSTEC-linked HBF002 adds a blue ceramic bezel and a textured dial referencing marine research, limited to 1,000 pieces. Both models introduce the new Calibre 8L45 with improved performance and up to a 72-hour power reserve, alongside a ceramic bezel insert and 300m water resistance. Pricing is about $4,446 (converted from €3,800) for the HBF001 and about $4,797 (converted from €4,100) for the HBF002.

Wearing Time - Reviews

G-Shock

From ‘Reality To Idea’ With The Casio G-Shock X Joshua Vides DW5600JV-7 Watch

The G-Shock x Joshua Vides DW5600JV-7 translates Vides’ “Reality to Idea” concept into a cartoon-sketch aesthetic, using a bright white base with graphic black linework that makes the watch look illustrated. Despite the playful look, it retains classic G-Shock toughness with a resin case and 200m water resistance. Inside is a standard quartz digital module (Module 3525) with practical functions like stopwatch and alarm. The limited-edition pricing is $180.

Ming

Living Life Like It’s Golden: A Close-Up of the Ming 37.04 Rose Gold Monopusher

Ming’s 37.04 Rose Gold Monopusher is a highly exclusive anniversary release, limited to 20 pieces, pairing a refined La Joux-Perret movement with a rose-gold case and a guilloché dial made by Kari Voutilainen. A sapphire crystal dial layer adds a contemporary, light-catching effect while keeping the design focused on depth and detail rather than flash. The watch integrates the chronograph actuation into a clean, minimal case profile and uses careful lume application to maintain legibility. Price is about $61,440 (converted from CHF 48,000), before taxes.

Unimatic

UNIMATIC Modello Cinque U5S-BLN Review: A Stealthy Higher-End 36mm Field Watch

Unimatic’s Modello Cinque U5S-BLN is a limited-edition 36mm field watch with a stealthy black DLC-coated steel case and an unexpectedly serious 300m water-resistance rating. Although compact, the wide dial and lug geometry help it wear larger, while the glossy black dial is paired with UNILIGHT luminous hour markers for strong low-light readability. It runs on the Swiss Sellita SW200-1b automatic movement, positioning it above more entry-level offerings in the line. Price is $1,390, and it ships with both a black leather strap and a khaki NATO-style strap.

Comparing Time

To the Moon and Back: Eight Creative Moonphase Watches

This piece surveys eight inventive takes on the moonphase complication, framed by the long-standing human fascination with the moon as both inspiration and timekeeper. It highlights how brands blend technical ambition with visual storytelling, from ultra-precise moon displays to more poetic, artistic interpretations. Standout examples include Hermès’ approach using rotating subdials to show lunar phases for both hemispheres, and travel-friendly concepts like dual moonphase indications. Overall, the selection shows how modern watchmaking continues to reinvent a classic complication through design, mechanics, and cultural symbolism.

Watching Time - Videos

The Best Watches From Windup Watch Fair Dallas 2026 - YouTube - Relative Time

This video highlights standout watches shown at the 2026 Windup Watch Fair in Dallas, giving viewers a quick tour of notable brands and models from the event. It focuses on what made certain pieces memorable—whether that’s design, execution, or overall wrist presence—while capturing the broader mood of the fair. The result is a useful snapshot of current enthusiast trends and what’s drawing attention on the show floor.

Watch Now

5 Things I LOVE About Being a Watch Collector - YouTube - Watch Clyde

This video is a personal, enthusiasm-driven look at why collecting watches is so satisfying, from the thrill of discovering new pieces to the community that forms around the hobby. It leans into the emotional side of collecting—how specific watches can carry stories and meaning over time. It also touches on the appreciation of craftsmanship and the deeper enjoyment that comes from learning how watches are made.

Watch Now

What’s Coming to the Watch Market in 2026… - YouTube - TimePieceTrading

This video outlines what to expect in the watch market in 2026, including shifts in design direction, technology, and changing buyer preferences. It discusses how brands may adapt their strategies to stay relevant as the market evolves. The video also calls out themes like sustainability and the growing role of smart or tech-forward features in shaping consumer demand.

Watch Now

Four Married Men Episode 8: Boomerang Watches - YouTube - Justin Hast

Episode 8 centers on “Boomerang watches,” using the concept as a springboard for humor and commentary on style, personality, and the role accessories play in everyday life. The episode’s dynamic comes from the group’s contrasting tastes and practical considerations, paired with comedic back-and-forth. It’s positioned as light entertainment with a watch-themed hook that ties into self-expression.

Watch Now

I Went to British Watchmakers’ Day 2026… This Watch Blew Me Away - YouTube - Jag’s Watches

This video recaps British Watchmakers’ Day 2026 and spotlights a particularly impressive watch that stood out for its craftsmanship and design. It conveys the energy of the event and the chance it provides to see a wide range of work from British brands and makers. The broader message is about the strength of British horology and the enthusiasm it continues to generate among collectors.

Watch Now

The Best Value Watches Just Dropped! - YouTube - ONE Watches

This video rounds up newly released watches positioned as strong “value for money,” focusing on what you get for the price in terms of design, specs, and overall quality. It walks through multiple options to suit different tastes, aiming to help viewers narrow down practical buys. The emphasis is on affordability without sacrificing solid materials and credible watchmaking.

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Talking Time - Podcasts

The Business of Watches Podcast: Doxa CEO Jan Edocs

This episode of The Business of Watches features Jan Edocs, CEO of Doxa, discussing how the century-old Swiss brand is working to grow while staying grounded in its dive-watch heritage. The conversation focuses on Doxa’s push to strengthen storytelling and broaden distribution beyond primarily online sales into a larger global retail footprint, targeting 300+ locations across markets like the U.S., Japan, the Middle East, and Australia. Edocs also addresses real operational pressures—cost inflation and tariffs—and why clear brand messaging matters more as the market shifts toward higher-priced offerings. It’s a strategy-heavy listen on positioning a legacy tool-watch brand for modern buyers.

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BuyingTime at Auction

A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com

[Wednesday’s auction watch, the 2015 Patek Philippe Celestial Platinum / Blue (6102P-001) - was bid to $128,500 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]

2025 Roger Dubuis Velvet Blossom Automatic 36 Rose Gold / Diamond-Set / MOP/Diamond-Set with Flowers and Leaves / Strap - Limited to 88 Pieces (RDDBVE0049)

Auction Report: Garden Party, Geneva Style

There are watches that tell time, and then there are watches that seem mildly offended you even asked. This 2025 Roger Dubuis Velvet Blossom Automatic 36 in rose gold belongs firmly in the second camp. Reference RDDBVE0049 is less a daily wearer than a miniature exercise in watchmaking theater, pairing a 36 mm rose-gold case with a mother-of-pearl dial, hand-finished floral decoration, diamonds across the bezel and lugs, and the kind of visual drama Roger Dubuis has long used to separate itself from the more buttoned-up corners of Swiss watchmaking. Limited to 88 pieces, it was never meant to be common, subtle, or remotely shy.

The Velvet line has long been Roger Dubuis’s answer to the idea that women’s watches should be both mechanically serious and unapologetically decorative. The Blossom models, in particular, helped define that formula by combining high jewelry cues with métiers d’art dial work and the brand’s in-house automatic caliber RD821. In this version, the flowers and leaves are rendered in carved enamel over a mother-of-pearl base, with rose-gold branches tying the scene together and diamonds placed at the center of the blossoms for extra sparkle. It is the sort of dial that reminds you Roger Dubuis has never been interested in doing “nice” when it can do extravagant instead.

From a technical standpoint, the watch brings more to the table than its jewelry-first appearance might suggest. The automatic RD821 movement has been a familiar and respectable part of the Velvet story, offering the kind of Swiss mechanical credibility collectors want when the exterior is doing this much visual heavy lifting. The 36 mm size also feels right for the watch. It is large enough to give the dial room to breathe and show off its layered textures, but still restrained enough to preserve the elegance that the Velvet collection is built around. This is not a piece that relies on sheer case diameter to make an impression. It earns attention the old-fashioned way, with craftsmanship, finishing, and a great deal of confidence.

As for value, this is where things get interesting. Market listings for RDDBVE0049 and closely related examples suggest asking prices that land broadly in the mid-$20,000s on the low end and can stretch much higher at specialty dealers, with at least one retail-style listing reaching into the low-to-mid $70,000 range. That spread is wide, but not unusual for a niche, gem-set limited-edition watch from a brand that inspires passion in some corners and caution in others. Roger Dubuis pieces often live in that strange space where artistry and rarity are obvious, but resale depth is not always as robust as it is for the usual blue-chip sports-watch suspects. In plain English, this is a beautiful watch with real substance, but it is also the kind of watch that needs the right buyer, not just any buyer.

That dynamic may work in favor of an auction bidder. This example is unworn, comes with box and papers, and dates to 2025, which means it checks nearly every box for someone who wants the full presentation and near-boutique condition without boutique pricing. For a collector of expressive modern dress watches, or for someone who appreciates the odd, glamorous corner where haute horlogerie meets jewelry design, it has real appeal. And because it sits outside the usual Rolex, Patek, and Audemars Piguet stampede, there is at least a chance that it could slip through at a level that feels surprisingly rational for something this ornate and this scarce.

The auction ends at 1:50 p.m. EDT today, Thursday, March 19, 2026, and it should attract attention from buyers who want something mechanical, feminine, lavish, and quite a bit rarer than the average diamond-set luxury watch. This is not a watch for minimalists, spreadsheet collectors, or anyone who thinks beige is an adventurous color choice. It is a watch for someone who wants rose gold, flowers, diamonds, mother-of-pearl, and the satisfaction of knowing only 87 other people in the world could conceivably show up wearing the same thing. In a market full of watches trying desperately to look tougher, cooler, and more “versatile,” this Roger Dubuis takes the far more entertaining route. It simply blooms.

Current bid: $5,200

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BuyingTime Daily - March 18, 2026

Wed, 18 Mar 2026 10:15:45 GMT

Go to our Live News Site

Time Graphing today’s watch universe

Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe for March 18, 2026 reads like a reminder that while watches are designed to measure time, they’re increasingly being measured by everything else—crime rates, cultural cachet, and, of course, price tags that seem to drift ever upward. The darker headline today comes from a sharp rise in luxury watch thefts, with nearly $3 million stolen in just the first ten weeks of the year and armed robberies up 66%. It’s a stark signal that the very attributes collectors love—portability, value density, and liquidity—are now drawing a different kind of attention, forcing retailers to rethink security beyond just cameras and glass cases.

Against that backdrop, the business of watch culture continues to expand in more optimistic directions. Time+Tide’s ambitious New York debut signals that experiential retail is still very much alive, provided it leans heavily into community, events, and digital amplification. Meanwhile, Louis Vuitton continues its steady march toward legitimacy in high watchmaking, with its Tambour and Escale collections showing increasing technical and aesthetic confidence. There’s also a thoughtful undercurrent in today’s commentary, with reflections on the so-called “uncanny valley” of collectibility—where watches go to be forgotten before they’re rediscovered—and a broader historical take on how brands like Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe helped pivot the industry from tool-making to storytelling machines powered by scarcity and design.

On the cultural front, the Oscars once again doubled as an unofficial watch fair, with Cartier dominating wrists in multiple forms, while pieces from Blancpain and others reinforced how watches now function as quiet but intentional signals of taste on the red carpet. It’s less about flexing and more about fluency—knowing what you’re wearing and why it matters.

New releases today span the full spectrum from conceptual art to practical value. ArtyA delivers one of the more visually striking pieces of the year with its moissanite Curvy Tourbillon, essentially turning the case into a refractive lens for the movement. Dominique Renaud takes a more philosophical route with the Pulse60, slowing time down—literally—with a 1 Hz oscillator that feels almost defiant in today’s high-frequency world. Greubel Forsey closes a chapter with the final Balancier Convexe S², a reminder that at the very top end, finishing and architecture still reign supreme. On the more accessible side, Seiko’s titanium King Seiko Vanac revival hits a sweet spot of heritage and wearability, while Tissot continues to refine its formula with the updated Visodate. Yema adds technical credibility with its MoonTide diver, and Ralph Lauren quietly delivers one of the cleanest dress options of the day with a slim quartz-powered 888.

Reviews and long-term comparisons bring things back to earth. The De Rijke & Co. Capri offers a refreshing twist on the rectangular dress watch, proving there’s still room for originality in a category dominated by legacy designs. Meanwhile, a five-year look at the Omega Speedmaster and Seamaster 300 reinforces a familiar conclusion: one is for moments, the other is for everything else—and both have aged into their roles rather well.

In video land, there’s a strong mix of education and entertainment, from a compelling case for Citizen’s underrated luxury credentials to a deep dive into vintage treasure hunting in Amsterdam. There’s also a timely cautionary take on betting on watch prices, which feels particularly relevant given the volatility we’re seeing across segments, and a behind-the-scenes look at British watchmaking that highlights just how vibrant the independent scene has become.

And then there’s the auction world, where things get truly astronomical. Yesterday’s gem-set Rolex Day-Date failed to meet reserve despite strong bidding, but all eyes now shift to the 2015 Patek Philippe Celestial 6102P—officially the most expensive watch ever featured in Buying Time’s auction coverage. With its mechanical rendering of the night sky and a market that comfortably lives north of $300,000, it’s less a watch and more a thesis statement on what high horology can be. As of now, it sits at $57,000 with the clock ticking toward its midday close, a reminder that sometimes the most interesting action in watches isn’t on the dial—it’s in the final minutes before the hammer drops.

–Michael Wolf

News Time

Luxury watches targeted in rising crime wave

Luxury watch thefts have surged in early 2026, with $2.9 million in watches and jewelry stolen in the first ten weeks alone, far exceeding the total from the prior year. Armed robberies are up 66%, reflecting how organized gangs are increasingly targeting boutiques for compact, high-value items that are easy to grab and hard to trace. Experts stress that technology by itself isn’t enough, and that a visible, trained security presence is becoming essential. The article also notes that strong resale value and portability make luxury watches especially attractive to criminals, raising urgency for retailers to strengthen protection.

Feature Time

Time+Tide’s New York opening will be its biggest test yet

Time+Tide has opened a 2,200-square-foot New York City studio that’s meant to build on the momentum of its Melbourne and London outposts. The space is designed as a hub for enthusiasts to meet independent watchmakers and explore a curated lineup, with partnerships and shared activations with brands like Christopher Ward and Toledano & Chan. The article notes that success will hinge on strong digital engagement and a consistently active events calendar in a crowded market. Even with construction delays and higher costs, the expansion is positioned as an investment in watch culture as much as a retail play.

Hits and Misses: Hands-On with Louis Vuitton’s Latest High Watchmaking Collections - Worn & Wound

Louis Vuitton used LVMH Watch Week to spotlight new high-watchmaking pieces, including presentations in Milan and events in New York at its Madison Avenue flagship. The story frames the brand’s horology evolution from early models like the Monterey into today’s Escale and Tambour lines, with the Tambour now a defining pillar of its identity. A key highlight is the Tambour Convergence, praised for its tactile guilloché dial and an in-house-focused self-winding movement from La Fabrique du Temps that adds visual intrigue. The Escale’s limited Tiger’s Eye stone dial is presented as a craftsmanship-forward statement where the dial work remains the central draw.

The Uncanny Valley of Collectibility

This piece by Tony Traina (needs to be Hodinkee) argues that “collectibility” often emerges only after a watch passes through an awkward middle period following discontinuation—no longer current, but not yet vintage. In that “Uncanny Valley,” many models fade from attention before being rediscovered and reevaluated years later, sometimes gaining renewed cultural and market significance. Whether a watch escapes that limbo depends on factors like historical importance, distinctive manufacturing or design traits, and lasting aesthetic appeal. It also points to how collectors’ shifting tastes can elevate overlooked references as they reassess past eras and what will matter long-term.

Venture Capitalist Paul Graham on Watchmaking’s Brand Age

Paul Graham revisits how the Swiss industry’s 1970s crisis—driven by Japanese competition, currency pressures, and quartz—forced a fundamental shift away from pure engineering prestige. To survive, many Swiss watchmakers pivoted toward luxury branding, reframing watches as status objects rather than primarily precision instruments. That change is linked to the rise of bolder, more recognizable designs and the growing importance of brand signatures, with icons like the Royal Oak and Nautilus reflecting the new emphasis. It also connects today’s pricing power to the development of artificial scarcity as a strategy to preserve exclusivity and sustain luxury positioning.

Oscars 2026: Where Cinema Meets Fine Watchmaking

Oscars 2026 served as a showcase for how watches have become part of the storytelling of personal style on the red carpet. The article highlights a range of choices—from Paul Mescal’s Cartier Tank Louis and Ryan Coogler’s Cartier Tank à Guichets to Robert Downey Jr.’s monochrome Blancpain Fifty Fathoms—each reflecting a different kind of taste and intent. It emphasizes that the carpet now functions as a highly visible stage for horological appreciation, where subtle or rare references can speak as loudly as jewelry. The broader takeaway is a deepening relationship between Hollywood and high-end watchmaking, with vintage and contemporary pieces alike reinforcing the cultural presence of luxury watches.

The Latest Time

ArtyA’s

ArtyA’s Curvy Tourbillon Gets A Cosmic Twist In Moissanite

ArtyA’s Purity Moissanite Curvy Tourbillon pairs a wrist-hugging Curvy case with moissanite, chosen for its hardness and dramatic light dispersion that makes the movement appear to float or magnify depending on angle. The case is cut with 65 facets to intensify that crystalline, “cosmic” effect while keeping the overall design wearable and sculptural. Inside is the brand’s PUR-T3 Curvy Tourbillon caliber, shaped to match the case, running at 4 Hz with up to a 72-hour power reserve. The piece is limited to nine examples and is priced at $216,000.

Dominique Renaud

Dominique Renaud’s Pulse60 is Slow and Steady

Dominique Renaud’s Pulse60 is built around a slow-beat 1 Hz oscillator, designed so the seconds hand advances in half-second steps for a distinctive cadence. The watch is offered in multiple versions (including titanium and 18k pink gold) and spotlights a very large balance and unconventional escapement engineered to avoid the amplitude limitations that often come with low frequency. Despite the technical focus, it’s sized for daily wear at 40 mm and uses manual winding with a 96-hour power reserve. Pricing starts at about $62,932 (from CHF 49,000 at roughly 1 CHF ≈ $1.284).

Greubel Forsey

Greubel Forsey Bids Farewell to the Balancier Convexe S²

Greubel Forsey is closing out the Balancier Convexe S² with an extremely limited final run split across two ceramic executions, one of which adds an 18k red-gold bezel. The manual-wind movement features an inclined balance and extensive titanium components, with the brand’s hallmark emphasis on fine detail throughout. While the case measures 44 mm, the design is framed as ergonomically sporty and meant to wear more naturally than the dimensions suggest. The farewell edition is priced at about $378,822 (CHF 295,000 at roughly 1 CHF ≈ $1.284).

Ralph Lauren

Ralph Lauren 888 38 mm—On Bracelet and with a Swiss Quartz Calibre

The Ralph Lauren 888 38 mm is presented as a sleek, dress-leaning steel watch with a polished bracelet and a notably slim 6.10 mm case that fits easily under a cuff. Its white lacquer dial uses a distinctive mix of Roman and Arabic numerals with Breguet-style hands for crisp legibility. Power comes from the Swiss quartz Calibre RL057, with an estimated five-year battery life, prioritizing convenience while keeping the aesthetic traditional. The listed price is $1,850.

Seiko

The King Seiko Vanac Returns in Titanium

Seiko has revived the King Seiko Vanac in titanium, keeping the model’s retro-leaning case architecture while cutting weight significantly for improved comfort. The faceted case mixes brushed and polished finishes, while the updated dial adds depth through combined horizontal and radial texturing in restrained colorways, including a standout metallic purple. It runs on Seiko’s cal. 8L45 with a three-day power reserve and offers 100 meters of water resistance, positioning it as a strong value against higher-tier alternatives. The price is $3,850.

Tissot

The new Tissot Visodate Collection, a Classic Redesigned

Tissot’s redesigned Visodate refreshes a long-running nameplate with a sharper, more compact 39 mm case and a dial that adds depth through applied markers and refined hand shapes. The collection comes in three versions, including a silver-dial model on leather and black- or blue-dial options on a vintage-styled steel bracelet. Inside is the Powermatic 80 automatic movement with an 80-hour power reserve and a magnetic-resistant balance spring. Pricing is about $909 (EUR 795) on leather and about $1,001 (EUR 875) on bracelet, using roughly 1 EUR ≈ $1.144.

Yema

The new Yema Superman Titanium MoonTide CMM.11

Yema’s Superman Titanium MoonTide CMM.11 is a limited-edition diver built in a 38.5 mm Grade 2 titanium case with a lunar-surface-inspired textured dial and 300 meters of water resistance. It includes a ceramic unidirectional bezel with a luminous 12 o’clock marker and the brand’s bezel-lock system to help prevent accidental rotation. The in-house CMM.11 automatic movement is rated at -3/+5 seconds per day and delivers a 70-hour power reserve. Pricing is about $2,504 (EUR 2,190) on titanium bracelet or about $2,163 (EUR 1,890) on rubber strap, using roughly 1 EUR ≈ $1.144.

Wearing Time - Reviews

De Rijke Watches & Co

The De Rijke & Co. Capri Is A Unique Take On The Rectangular Dress Watch

The De Rijke & Co. Capri is positioned as a fresh, playful alternative to classic rectangular dress watches, pairing a slim formal profile with distinctive design choices. A key visual signature is its suspended dial concept, offered across three aesthetic variations (including an aventurine option), and a softly rounded steel case shaped to keep the dial readable from multiple angles. Inside is a hand-wound La Joux-Perret D100 movement with a 50-hour power reserve, supporting the watch’s refined proportions. Limited to 50 pieces per dial variation and priced at €2,195, it’s framed as a character-rich, minimalist dress watch that avoids feeling overly traditional.

Comparing Time

Long-Term Review: Five Years Owning The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch And Omega Seamaster 300

This long-term comparison looks back on five years with Omega’s Speedmaster Moonwatch and Seamaster 300, focusing on how both have held up in real life since their 2021 updates. The Speedmaster is praised for improved reliability and design refinements, including a newer movement that avoids issues found in earlier versions, plus comfort upgrades like moving to a micro-adjustable clasp. The Seamaster 300 emerges as the author’s most-worn piece thanks to its durable, vintage-leaning style that works across settings and outfits while still offering modern performance credentials. Even with price increases over time, the watch’s Master Chronometer spec and strong water resistance help justify its place as an everyday staple alongside the more event-linked Moonwatch.

Watching Time - Videos

Citizen’s Luxury Watch Is Way Better Than You Think - YouTube - Teddy Baldassarre

This video breaks down why Citizen’s higher-end offerings deserve more attention than they typically get in luxury-watch conversations. It focuses on the brand’s craftsmanship, technology, and overall design execution to argue that the watches compete above their usual perception. A key theme is value—how Citizen delivers a luxury-leaning experience at a price point that often undercuts established competitors. The goal is to push viewers to reevaluate Citizen’s place in the premium segment.

Watch Now

Rare Finds & Hidden Grails: Inside Amsterdam Vintage Watches - YouTube - Revolution Watch

This tour dives into the Amsterdam Vintage Watches shop and its collection of rare, historically interesting timepieces. The video emphasizes the stories behind standout pieces and what makes certain references “hidden grails” for collectors. Along the way, it highlights the expertise and passion involved in sourcing and curating vintage watches with real provenance and character. It’s positioned as both an enthusiast deep-dive and a visually driven look at vintage horology culture.

Watch Now

Kalshi & Bezel: The Problem With Betting on Watch Prices - YouTube - Collective Horology

This video examines the emerging idea of betting on luxury watch prices and why that approach can be riskier than it appears. It discusses platforms like Kalshi and Bezel and the challenge of building a regulated, transparent system around a market known for volatility. The commentary focuses on how price swings, hype cycles, and incomplete data can distort outcomes for both bettors and collectors. The overall message is cautionary, encouraging viewers to approach watch-price speculation with skepticism and better education.

Watch Now

This Is The Most PERFECT Combination I’ve Seen! ... BUT - YouTube - Jason The Watch Guy

This video centers on a watch-related “perfect combination” that initially impresses, but comes with a caveat the creator thinks viewers should consider. It’s framed as enthusiast commentary, balancing excitement about the pairing with a more critical look at the trade-offs or drawbacks. The emphasis is on what makes a combination work aesthetically and functionally—and where the reality may fall short of the first impression. It’s designed to entertain while helping viewers think more critically about watch choices.

Watch Now

Behind the Scenes at British Watchmakers Day 2026 - YouTube - WatchGecko

This behind-the-scenes look highlights British Watchmakers Day 2026 and the craft culture driving modern UK horology. The video spotlights makers, their processes, and the design and engineering details that define the scene, using interviews and event coverage to bring it to life. It also focuses on the community aspect—how independent brands and enthusiasts connect through events like this. Overall, it serves as a compact primer on the momentum and identity of contemporary British watchmaking.

Watch Now

Talking Time - Podcasts

Fratello On Air: Does Price Transparency In The Vintage Watch Market Exist?

This episode tackles whether true price transparency is possible in the vintage watch market, prompted by a listener question. The hosts discuss how difficult it can be to determine a “fair” price when comparable sales data is inconsistent and variables like condition, service history, and dealer reputation can dramatically change value. They stress the importance of deep research and extra caution, especially with the rise of Instagram-based dealers whose credibility can be hard to verify. The takeaway is that there are no fixed pricing rules—but informed buying can reduce risk significantly.

Listen Now >

BuyingTime at Auction

A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com

[Thursday’s auction watch, the 2022 Rolex Day-Date 36 White Gold and Diamond-Set / Diamond-Set / Green Jade / Gem-Set / Strap (128459TBR) - was bid to $83,001 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]

2015 Patek Philippe Celestial Platinum / Blue (6102P-001)

Auction Report: The Sky Isn’t the Limit—It’s the Dial: Patek Philippe Celestial 6102P

There are expensive watches, there are complicated watches, and then there is the 2015 Patek Philippe Celestial 6102P-001—a piece that doesn’t just tell time, it maps the heavens. And with this auction, Buying Time officially enters new territory: this is the most expensive watch we have ever highlighted in our auction section, a fitting escalation for a model that quite literally tracks the cosmos.

Let’s start with what makes this watch so absurdly compelling. The Celestial sits firmly in Patek Philippe’s Grand Complications line, and it earns that designation with a dial that is essentially a mechanical planetarium. Using multiple sapphire crystal disks, the watch displays the night sky as seen from the Northern Hemisphere, including the movement of stars, the phases and orbit of the moon, and even the meridian passage of Sirius. It is less a watch and more an astronomical instrument strapped to your wrist, powered by the caliber 240 LU CL C—a micro-rotor movement that has become one of Patek’s most revered technical platforms.

The 44mm platinum case gives the watch the physical presence to match its conceptual ambition. This is not a discreet Calatrava slipping under a cuff. This is a statement piece, and the deep blue dial—arguably one of the most mesmerizing in modern watchmaking—only amplifies that effect. Even in a pre-owned condition with minor wear and a slightly tired strap, the essence of the watch remains untouched because the real value here is in the display itself. If the dial is intact, the universe is intact.

Now let’s talk numbers, because they matter here more than usual. The Celestial 6102P sits in rarefied air with a retail price hovering around $394,000 and a current secondary market estimate in the $300,000 to $320,000 range, though real-world listings frequently push well beyond that depending on condition and completeness. Listings for comparable examples routinely stretch from the mid-$300,000s into the $400,000+ range, with some dealers asking even more for pristine sets. In other words, this is not just expensive—it is institutionally expensive, the kind of watch that trades more like art than inventory.

Historically, the Celestial lineage traces back to the early 2000s with the reference 5102, marking Patek Philippe’smodern revival of astronomical wristwatches. The 6102 refined that concept, adding a date display and improving legibility without compromising the poetic chaos of the dial. Production remains extremely limited, and liquidity is thin, which is exactly how Patek likes it. These are not watches you see often, and when they appear, they tend to find homes quickly among collectors who already understand what they’re looking at.

Which brings us to this specific example. A 2015 production with box, papers, and literature, it checks the boxes that matter. The condition is honest—worn, but not abused—and that’s almost beside the point at this level. Buyers in this category are not nitpicking hairline scratches; they are buying into the idea of owning a mechanical sky.

The auction closes at 12:25 pm EDT on Wednesday, March 18, 2026, and it will be fascinating to see where it lands. Given the current market dynamics and the continued appetite for top-tier Patek Philippe complications, this is exactly the kind of watch that can surprise to the upside—especially when two bidders decide they both need the universe on their wrist.

And make no mistake, that’s what this is. Not a watch. Not even really a collectible. It’s a conversation between horology and astronomy, priced accordingly.

Current bid: $57.000

See it Now on Bezel >

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BuyingTime Daily - March 17, 2026

Tue, 17 Mar 2026 10:15:46 GMT

Go to our Live News Site

Time Graphing today’s watch universe

“Time Graphing Today’s Watch Universe” for March 17, 2026 reads like a reminder that watches continue to operate at the intersection of culture, craft, and a little bit of spectacle—sometimes all at once. The 2026 Oscars may have handed out statues, but it was the wrists that quietly stole scenes, with Rolex, Omega, Piaget, Bvlgari, and Chanel all making appearances that felt less like product placement and more like personal storytelling. Seeing a platinum Urban Jürgensen on Timothée Chalamet and a vintage Omega on Nicole Kidman reinforces that the red carpet is no longer just about jewelry—it’s about horological identity, with vintage and modern pieces coexisting comfortably.

Away from Hollywood, the industry showed its more meaningful side through Bulova’s continued support of the Veteran Watchmaker’s Initiative, which is quietly becoming one of the most important pipelines for talent in American watchmaking. It’s a smart blend of heritage and purpose, and the introduction of a Military Chronograph tied to the program gives collectors a way to participate beyond just admiration. Meanwhile, speculation around Rolex’s 2026 releases continues to build into a kind of annual sport, with rumors of a Coke GMT revival, a Milgauss comeback, and even a possible complication play within the 1908 line. Whether any of it materializes is almost beside the point—Rolex’s ability to dominate conversation without confirming anything remains unmatched.

On the ground in London, British Watchmakers’ Day delivered exactly what the indie segment thrives on: energy, scarcity, and community. The rapid sellout of Christopher Ward’s Loco 7326 in under half an hour signals that the appetite for independent and semi-independent brands is not slowing down, particularly when the experience feels personal. That same spirit carries into the mechanical art space, where L’Epée 1839, now under LVMH, continues to blur the line between clockmaking and sculpture through collaborations with names like MB&F and Chanel, proving that kinetic objects still have a place in a digital world.

The new releases today leaned heavily into variety, which is exactly what keeps the market healthy. Indie entrant Akhor pushed high horology pricing with its Lumière Blanche editions, while Doxa kept things grounded with a Rome-inspired SUB 200 that feels like a thoughtful twist on a classic diver. Franck Muller refined its Vanguard line for broader wearability, and Merci Instruments doubled down on accessible design-driven mechanics. At the extreme end, Marco Lang’s Seven Spheres Tourbillon reminded everyone that watchmaking can still veer into philosophical territory, turning timekeeping into a literal moving model of the universe.

On the review side, Audemars Piguet continues to flex its dominance in the luxury sports category with new Royal Oak Offshore divers that manage to feel both overbuilt and highly refined, while Louis Vuitton keeps pushing deeper into serious watchmaking territory with its Escale Worldtime, a piece that is starting to make the term “fashion brand” feel increasingly outdated in this context. Both reviews reinforce a broader theme: the middle is getting squeezed, while the top and the well-executed entry points continue to thrive.

Editorially, there’s a growing sense of unease around parts of the Swiss industry, with declining performance and lack of clear strategy becoming harder to ignore. At the same time, collectors themselves are evolving, with more openness to quartz, broader tastes, and less obsession with signaling—suggesting that the next phase of collecting may be more personal and less performative. Layer on top of that the ongoing debate about the importance of leadership, and it’s clear that brands are increasingly being judged not just by what they make, but by who is steering the ship.

If you’re looking for something lighter, the video lineup today leans into the psychology of collecting, from planning the next major purchase to redefining what value looks like in both the affordable GMT space and the competitive $2,000 segment. It’s a good reminder that the “hunt” remains half the fun, even in a market that can sometimes feel overly financialized.

And then there’s the auction world, where reality continues to check expectations. Monday’s Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph stalled at $41,500 without meeting reserve, a sign that even strong references need the right moment and the right bidders. In contrast, today’s headliner—the jade-dial Rolex Day-Date—leans into pure spectacle, sitting at $83,001 ahead of its St. Patrick’s Day close and embodying everything the upper tier of the market has become: rare, loud, and unapologetically niche.

All told, today’s watch universe feels balanced between aspiration and recalibration. The top end continues to dazzle, the independents continue to innovate, and the broader market continues to ask harder questions. That tension is what keeps things interesting—and very much alive.

-Michael Wolf

News Time

And The Best Supporting Timepiece at the 2026 Oscars Goes To...

The 2026 Oscars spotlighted wristwatches as key red-carpet style statements, with stars using timepieces to underline both fashion and personality. Timothée Chalamet wore a platinum Urban Jürgensen, while Pedro Pascal paired formalwear with Chanel’s Boyfriend, reinforcing the growing ease of crossing traditional “mens” and “womens” watch lines. Other notable sightings included Hudson Williams in Bvlgari Serpenti, Nicole Kidman in a vintage 1966 white-gold Omega, Michael B. Jordan celebrating with a vintage yellow-gold Piaget Protocole, and Leonardo DiCaprio opting for a dress-forward Rolex 1908.

Feature Time

Bulova Supporting Veterans Via Veteran Watchmaker’s Initiative

Bulova has been a long-time supporter of the Veteran Watchmaker’s Initiative (VWI), a Delaware-based school founded in 2017 that trains U.S. military veterans in watchmaking, continuing a legacy that dates back to Bulova’s own post-WWII training efforts. The brand provides tools and materials and has helped create real career pathways by designating VWI as an authorized service center. To expand awareness, Bulova produced a documentary-style film sharing veterans’ stories and introduced a Military Chronograph VWI Edition watch that financially supports the program. Together, these efforts position watchmaking as a practical, meaningful post-service career.

Fratello’s Rolex Predictions For 2026: Coke GMT Revival, Milgauss Comeback, And A Possible Perpetual Calendar?

With Watches and Wonders nearing, the piece lays out fan predictions for Rolex’s 2026 lineup, including a possible return of the “Coke” GMT-Master II and a major Milgauss reboot timed to its 70th anniversary. It also speculates about new, more streamlined dial options for the Land-Dweller as Rolex continues to refine newer lines. On the higher-complication end, the article floats a calendar complication for the Perpetual 1908 and the idea of a panda-dial Daytona. The throughline is that Rolex’s unpredictability keeps both enthusiasts and the market on edge for surprises.

Photo Report: British Watchmakers Day 2026

British Watchmakers’ Day 2026 drew a sold-out crowd of 1,850 people to Lindley Hall in Westminster, with 48 brands presenting limited editions and new releases. One standout moment was the Christopher Ward Loco 7326 selling out in just 24 minutes, underscoring the event’s momentum and collector appetite. Improvements like extended hours and lower limited-edition quantities helped ease traffic and made it easier for attendees to spend meaningful time with exhibits. Beyond shopping, the day functioned as a community hub—part showcase, part networking—fueling excitement for next year.

L’Epée 1839’s Objects Of Desire

The story traces how Arnaud Nicolas revived L’Epée 1839 after acquiring the struggling clockmaker in 2009, shifting it away from being a ceremonial gift supplier and back toward inventive mechanical objects. By bringing manufacturing in-house and reinvesting profits into engineering, the company developed more than fifty new calibers and formed high-profile collaborations with partners like MB&F and Chanel. As demand and capacity pressures grew, L’Epée was ultimately acquired by LVMH in 2024, adding stability and production support while preserving its entrepreneurial spirit. The piece argues that today’s renewed interest in mechanical clocks is driven less by nostalgia and more by their ability to combine art, motion, and emotion in a way few objects can.

Fears Watches Founder Nicholas Bowman-Scargill Talks Milestone Watches, Quiet Obsessions & More

Nicholas Bowman-Scargill shares an intimate look at his collecting instincts—spanning watches as well as personal ephemera like hotel matchboxes and car brochures—and how those passions connect to his work leading Fears. He marks a recent brand milestone with the purchase of a Breitling Avenger 43 and looks ahead to a vintage Rolex Day-Date as a potential 40th birthday watch, reflecting the role of timepieces as personal punctuation marks. The piece also highlights how tools like Substack’s audio feature have changed how he consumes ideas during commutes and daily routines. Looking forward, he frames 2026 as a pivotal year for Fears’ 180th anniversary, with new launches and a new head office planned alongside a more intentional approach to balance and leadership.

The Latest Time

Akhor

Indie Brand Akhor Launches the Lumiere Blanche Editions

Akhor expands its Le Temps en Équilibre line with the new Lumière Blanche Editions in a 39mm cushion-shaped case rendered in 4N or 5N gold, pairing polished and satin finishes with the brand’s signature dual-disc dial architecture. Two versions are offered: a white sunburst dial, or a white honeycomb dial with a diamond-set bezel. Inside is the manual-wind, COSC-certified calibre AK10 (made by Clamax), running at 28,800 vph with a 60-hour power reserve. Pricing is about $74,227 for the sunburst version (CHF 57,800) and about $87,069 for the diamond-bezel version (CHF 67,800).

Bausele

Bausele Elemental Review: A Unique Take On The Integrated Bracelet Watch

The Bausele Elemental aims to stand out in the integrated-bracelet category with a playful but functional design built around a 40mm steel case (12.2mm thick) and a double-bezel layout that supports second-time-zone tracking. A signature detail is the crown filled with sand from Sydney’s Northern Beaches, giving it personality without overwhelming the overall look. Power comes from the service-friendly Sellita SW200 automatic movement, positioned as a dependable everyday choice. It’s priced at $750.

Doxa

The Doxa SUB 200 Grande Roma Edition

Created with Italian retailer Gioielleria Grande, the SUB 200 Grande Roma Edition is a 50-piece limited dive watch that keeps the classic SUB 200 shape but swaps in a more restrained dark gradient dial that shifts from warm brown to near-black. The stainless-steel case is water-resistant to 200 meters, and the caseback is engraved with the Colosseum to underscore the Rome tie-in. A Sellita SW200 automatic movement provides roughly 38 hours of power reserve, and the package includes a beads-of-rice bracelet plus an extra brown NATO strap. The stated price is about $1,819 (EUR 1,590).

Franck Muller

Making Its Mark

Franck Muller updates its Vanguard offering with Asia Pacific Exclusive editions that refine the collection’s bold shape with more emphasis on wearability and surface finishing. The Vanguard Asia Pacific Exclusive highlights an in-house guilloché pavé-de-losanges dial, while the Vanguard Sport version leans into a brushed look with stamped sun guilloché. Both are presented in stainless steel with a 42-hour power reserve and 30m water resistance, keeping the recognizable V43 format intact. The release positions these as more coherent, everyday-friendly expressions of the Vanguard design language.

Marco Lang

Marco Lang’s Seven Spheres Tourbillon is Futuristic Classicism

Marco Lang departs from his typically restrained style with the Seven Spheres, a dramatic multi-axis central tourbillon concept inspired by Ptolemy’s geocentric model and built as an open, kinetic mechanical sculpture. Limited to 18 pieces, it pairs a classically finished platinum case (42mm wide, 18mm tall) with an architecture dominated by seven rotating titanium rings around the oscillator. Time is read via a slim minutes ring rather than a traditional dial, keeping focus on the animated movement. The stated price is about $286,075 (€250,000).

Merci Instruments

Merci Instruments Launches Six New Versions of its Geometric ‘Beaumarchais’

Merci Instruments expands its Geometric “Beaumarchais” line with six new references that lean into 1970s cues, centered on a compact cushion-style case with an octagonal bezel (36mm x 10mm). The dials vary in texture and marker design—pulling from a mix of classical motifs—while staying focused on depth and legibility rather than spec-sheet theatrics. Each runs on a Miyota 9039 automatic movement with a 40-hour power reserve, and the watches are positioned as robust, design-forward mechanical pieces at an accessible level. Retail is about $538 (€470).

Wearing Time - Reviews

Audemars Piguet

Hands-On With The Three New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Diver Watches In Steel

This review covers three new Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Diver models in steel, positioned as true luxury tool watches with 300 meters of water resistance and an internal dive bezel. They run on Audemars Piguet’s in-house automatic calibre 4308 and feature the Méga Tapisserie dial pattern, bold markers, and a date window for strong legibility. The lineup leans into bright, modern colorways (including pink, turquoise, and teal) and comes on interchangeable rubber straps, balancing sport utility with high-end finishing. The writer notes the watches’ unusually strong positioning in the luxury dive segment, with few direct peers matching the same mix of specs and prestige.

Louis Vuitton

The New Louis Vuitton Escale Worldtime

Louis Vuitton’s 2026 Escale Worldtime refresh keeps the signature hand-painted ring but upgrades the package with a polished/brushed platinum case and a more legible world-time display built around a jumping hour disc. The dial uses 24 hand-painted flags to represent major cities, adding a vivid, craft-forward layer that differentiates it from more traditional world-timers. Power comes from the new Calibre LFT VO12.01, delivering world-time functionality with a 62-hour power reserve. The piece argues this is part of Louis Vuitton’s continued shift from “fashion watch” perception toward serious high-end watchmaking, even in a competitive field dominated by established players.

Editorial Time

Swiss watchmakers in decline seem to lack a survival plan

Swiss watchmakers are facing steep sales declines, with many major brands reportedly down 50% or more over the past eight years. The piece points to widening gaps in performance—some brands growing strongly while others, including big names, are sliding—raising concerns about marketing effectiveness and retailer strategy. It also highlights how excess inventory pushed into the grey market has fueled discounting and hurt brand positioning for certain players. The overall takeaway is that the industry needs clearer performance accountability and a more deliberate plan to adapt, borrowing lessons from both winners and losers.

Four Times I Was Wrong About Watch Collecting

This reflection tracks how a collector’s views changed over time—from prioritizing mechanical movements to appreciating quartz watches and a wider range of qualities that make a watch enjoyable. It argues that the idea of needing “statement” features can be overrated, especially when real-world feedback is minimal and long-term satisfaction often comes from simplicity and quality. The author also challenges the assumption that collectors must specialize, suggesting that being a generalist can lead to richer conversations and learning across categories. Ultimately, the piece frames watch collecting as a personal evolution shaped by openness and community.

Opinion Time

According To Ariel: How Important Is A Watch Brand CEO Or Leader?

The piece argues that a watch brand CEO can matter enormously, but the impact varies by brand and there’s no single “right” background for the role. Some leaders are true horology devotees, while others are more focused on business growth, marketing, and brand strategy—and either approach can shape product direction and public perception. It also emphasizes that CEO departures can create real disruption, influencing everything from investment priorities to retailer and consumer confidence. Ultimately, the CEO is framed as both the visible embodiment of the brand and the decision-maker who connects creative vision with operational execution, especially critical for smaller brands.

Watching Time - Videos

When I’m Planning To Buy The Next Big Watch For My Collection - YouTube - Harrison Elmore

This video focuses on the process behind choosing a “next big” addition to a watch collection, emphasizing how collectors weigh criteria like personal taste, significance, and timing. It highlights the importance of paying attention to market context and trends while still staying grounded in what you actually want to wear and live with. A key theme is the enjoyment in the hunt itself—the research, anticipation, and decision-making that build momentum before the purchase. Overall, it encourages viewers to be intentional and to deepen their appreciation for the craftsmanship and history behind the watches they pursue.

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Citizen Just Made Every Cheap GMT Look Bad... - YouTube - The Time Teller

This video argues that Citizen has meaningfully raised expectations for what an affordable GMT can deliver, both in build and overall execution. It frames the new release as a standout in the budget segment by combining practical functionality with a stronger design and better real-world usability than many low-cost competitors. The discussion emphasizes how these improvements can shift consumer perception of “cheap GMT” watches, making the category more competitive. Viewers are invited to compare features and consider why Citizen’s approach may be the new benchmark at the price point.

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I Found The Best $2000 Watch: ZERO Competition - YouTube - Six Inch Wrists Talks Watches

This video spotlights a watch positioned as the strongest option around the $2,000 level, claiming it outperforms rivals on overall quality and feature set. It breaks down the watch’s design and functionality in detail, focusing on what specifically makes it feel like a step above other choices in the same bracket. The creator also leans on comparisons to show where competing models fall short and where this pick wins on value. The result is a buyer-oriented deep dive meant to help viewers feel confident about a high-impact purchase in a crowded segment.

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BuyingTime at Auction

A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com

[Monday’s auction watch, Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 41 Titanium / Platinum / Slate Gray (26331IP.OO.1220IP.01) - was bid to $41,500 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]

2022 Rolex Day-Date 36 White Gold and Diamond-Set / Diamond-Set / Green Jade / Gem-Set / Strap (128459TBR)

Auction Report: Emerald Empire: The Jade Day-Date That Doesn’t Whisper Luxury—It Shouts It

There are Day-Dates, and then there are Day-Dates that feel like they were never meant for a display case—but rather a private safe in Geneva or a velvet tray in Dubai. The 2022 Rolex Day-Date 36 Ref. 128459TBR firmly belongs in the latter category, a watch that takes Rolex’s most political and recognizable platform and turns it into something bordering on high jewelry excess—and, fittingly, lands on the block on St. Patrick’s Day as arguably the most overqualified green watch ever made.

To understand this watch, you have to start with the DNA. The Rolex Day-Date, introduced in 1956, was the first wristwatch to display both the day and date in full, earning its “President” nickname thanks to its association with world leaders and power brokers. Traditionally, that meant gold, restraint, and quiet authority. This watch throws restraint out the window.

The 128459TBR is what insiders refer to as “off-catalogue”—a designation reserved for Rolex’s most exclusive clientele. These pieces are not sitting in display windows at your local authorized dealer. They are quietly offered, often through relationships, and built in extremely limited numbers. In this case, Rolex starts with an 18k white gold Day-Date and then proceeds to drench it in diamonds, from the case to the bezel, before adding a jade dial set with ruby hour markers. The result is less “boardroom” and more “private jet at 30,000 feet.”

And that jade dial is the entire story—and today, the perfect thematic flex. If you were ever going to pick a watch to wear on St. Patrick’s Day, this is it. Not your average green dial, but a deep, natural jade that shifts in tone under light, giving it a richness that painted dials simply can’t replicate. Unlike lacquer or enamel, jade is a natural stone, meaning every single example is unique in tone, veining, and translucence. It’s also notoriously difficult to machine without cracking, which is why Rolex uses it sparingly. In many cultures, jade symbolizes power, prosperity, and immortality—fitting themes for a watch that already represents the pinnacle of Rolex hierarchy.

Underneath the gemstones, the watch remains mechanically serious. The Caliber 3255 is Rolex’s modern flagship movement, offering a 70-hour power reserve and Superlative Chronometer accuracy of -2/+2 seconds per day. It’s the same engine found in more “conservative” Day-Dates, but here it feels almost secondary to the visual impact.

From a market perspective, this is where things get interesting. A standard Day-Date might hover around $36,000 depending on configuration, but gem-set, off-catalogue references operate in an entirely different universe. Comparable examples of the 128459TBR have traded anywhere from roughly $93,000 to well north of $150,000 depending on condition and completeness. That spread reflects the reality of watches like this—they don’t follow the market, they create their own micro-market.

Condition-wise, the example heading to auction today sits in that familiar “lightly worn but well-kept” category. Minor wear on the case and strap is expected, and frankly irrelevant at this level. Buyers in this segment are not chasing perfection; they’re chasing presence, rarity, and configuration. The inclusion of box and papers from 2022 matters, particularly for a piece like this where provenance and originality are part of the value equation.

So where does that leave us ahead of the 12:20 pm EDT hammer on St. Patrick’s Day? This is not a watch for the typical Rolex buyer, nor even for the average Day-Date collector. It’s for someone who already owns the yellow gold President, the platinum ice-blue dial, and is now looking for something that feels like it came from a different room in Rolex’s house—one with fewer visitors—and perhaps one that just happens to match the holiday perfectly.

Expect strong bidding, but within a narrow lane. The right two bidders could push this comfortably into six figures. Without them, it settles into the high five-figure range. That’s the nature of off-catalogue Rolex: incredibly desirable, but only to those who know exactly what they’re looking at.

Either way, this isn’t just another Day-Date crossing the block. It’s Rolex at its most unapologetically extravagant—and on this particular Tuesday in March, it might just be the most luxurious way to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day ever put on a wrist.

Current bid: $83,001

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BuyingTime Daily - March 16, 2026

Mon, 16 Mar 2026 10:15:48 GMT

Go to our Live News Site

Time Graphing today’s watch universe

The watch world opens the week with a reminder that Rolex still knows how to stage a scene. At the 2026 Oscars last night, the brand’s greenroom leaned into the signature Rolex palette with green velvet, brushed metal, and champagne-gold accents, creating a setting that felt more like a gallery than a lounge. Instead of filling the room with screens, portraits of Oscar winners took center stage, reinforcing the brand’s long-running relationship with cinema and its preference for timeless aesthetics over digital spectacle. Meanwhile, a major leadership shift arrived at TAG Heuer, where Béatrice Goasglas has been named CEO, becoming the first woman to lead the 166-year-old brand. Her task is clear: reinvigorate growth, sharpen the strategy behind core collections, and steer the brand forward as it navigates a competitive luxury landscape. In the more playful corner of the industry, Swatch rolled out its AI-driven “AI Dada” customization tool in the United States, letting customers design their own watch with a text prompt and receive a one-of-a-kind piece in about five days—proof that personalization is quickly becoming part of the watchmaking conversation.

Feature coverage today stretches across both the philosophical and the practical sides of collecting. A new installment of Bring a Loupe highlights everything from a rare quartz Vacheron Constantin 222 to a Miami Vice–era Ebel linked to Don Johnson’s Sonny Crockett, along with vintage Yema chronographs that are quietly gaining collector attention. Another feature dives into the technical difference between openworked and skeletonized watches, explaining how modern machining has allowed watchmakers to expose the inner mechanics in increasingly intricate ways. There’s also a thoughtful look at whether saving for a Rolex Submariner still makes sense in 2026, balancing the model’s enduring prestige against changing market dynamics. Meanwhile, design experimentation is on display through Samuel Ross’s collaboration with Hublot on the Big Bang Unico SR_A, a ceramic chronograph that prioritizes functionality and airflow through its distinctive honeycomb structure. Add in an exploration of oil-filled watch cases and a profile of independent pioneer Vincent Calabrese—whose movement-as-sculpture philosophy helped reshape modern horology—and the day’s features offer plenty of perspective on how creativity and engineering continue to shape the industry.

New releases keep the momentum going across several corners of the market over the weekend. Beaubleu has teamed up with the Monnaie de Paris for the La Pièce series, using minting techniques to create richly textured dials inside a 39mm case powered by a France Ebauches automatic movement. Erebus delivers a practical twist on the field watch with its Twenty-Four model, emphasizing a full 24-hour dial layout and offering multiple sizes with a Miyota automatic inside. Over at Timex, the brand leans into playful nostalgia with a Peanuts-themed pickleball capsule that places Snoopy onto a trio of approachable watches, including a Weekender, a Marlin Quartz, and a Marlin Automatic.

Hands-on reviews today span a wide spectrum of watchmaking. Certina revisits its heritage with the modern DS-2, a robust tool watch powered by the Powermatic 80 movement that manages to feel vintage-inspired without drifting into faux aging. At the high end, Chopard experiments with automotive-inspired architecture in the Zagato Lab One Concept, a skeletal tourbillon watch built around a lightweight tubular framework. Citizen offers practical travel capability through the Eco-Drive Promaster Land GMT, while Girard-Perregaux goes full spectacle with the Planetarium Tri-Axial tourbillon and its rotating celestial display. Elsewhere, Maen continues refining its Hudson diver, Pequignet demonstrates French mechanical strength with the Royale Paris Icy Blue and its in-house Calibre Royal, Rolex owners weigh in on the everyday wearability of the Land-Dweller 36, and RZE shows how titanium pilot watches can still deliver strong value.

Comparisons and buying guides round out the day’s reading with several collector-friendly angles. A collaborative GMT from Nodus and Raven channels some Rolex Explorer II DNA at a far more approachable price, while a guide to sub-40mm mechanical chronographs highlights models from Zenith, Raymond Weil, and Audemars Piguet. Another roundup explores credible alternatives to the Rolex Submariner from brands like Omega, Tudor, Seiko, and Unimatic, and a head-to-head showdown compares the iconic Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 with the Overseas Self-Winding—heritage elegance versus modern versatility.

The road to Watches and Wonders is also heating up, with early previews suggesting that the 2026 edition in Geneva will be one of the largest yet, featuring 66 exhibiting brands and renewed participation from Audemars Piguet as it celebrates its 150th anniversary. The coming show is expected to set the tone for the industry’s next wave of releases, especially with milestone moments anticipated from Patek Philippe and Rolex.

On the editorial side, a thoughtful commentary argues that artificial intelligence will never fully replace humans in the luxury sector. The reasoning is simple: luxury buyers ultimately value craftsmanship, storytelling, and personal interaction—qualities that still depend on human skill and emotion. AI may streamline certain processes, but the magic behind a finely made mechanical watch remains deeply human.

Today’s video lineup offers plenty to watch while the markets tick along. Highlights include a deep dive into microbrand standouts, a look at how Cartier quietly became one of the most influential watchmakers in the world, a behind-the-scenes tour of Tudor production, and several analyses of the shifting Rolex market. Other videos explore collecting philosophies, industry critiques, and speculation about future releases, providing a broad snapshot of the watch conversation happening online.

And finally, in the auction corner, Friday’s listing for the 2024 Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Hodinkee edition closed at $5,775 but failed to meet its reserve, leaving the door open for offers. Attention now turns to the titanium-and-platinum Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph ref. 26331IP, currently bidding around $40,500 ahead of its late afternoon close. With its mix of lightweight titanium construction and platinum bezel flash, it remains one of the more intriguing modern Royal Oak variants—and the kind of watch that tends to quietly attract serious collectors.

—Michael Wolf

News Time

Step inside the 2026 Rolex Oscars greenroom

Rolex’s 2026 Oscars greenroom leans into the brand’s signature aesthetic with green velvet paired with brushed metal and champagne-gold finishes. Instead of relying on video screens, the space highlights portraits of Oscar-winning stars, reinforcing a more timeless, gallery-like feel. The design underscores Rolex’s long-running connection to film while emphasizing craftsmanship and visual harmony throughout the room.

TAG Heuer Calls On US President To Lead The Brand To Growth

TAG Heuer has named Béatrice Goasglas CEO, making her the first woman to lead the company in its 166-year history after the sudden departure of Antoine Pin. Goasglas previously served as president of the Americas and steps in as the brand works to reverse a multi-year sales decline and slipping industry rank. Her focus will be on sharpening strategy and innovation across core collections and partnerships like Formula 1, while also evaluating what’s next for the Connected smartwatch line.

You Can Now Make Your Own Unique Swatch Using Its ‘AI Dada’ Tool

Swatch has introduced its AI Dada tool in the U.S., letting customers generate a custom watch design by submitting a prompt of up to 300 words. The resulting quartz watch is produced and shipped in roughly five days for $195, offering a fast, personalized route to a one-off piece. Each design is unique and marked “1/1,” and users can tailor options within the New Gent 41 format while drawing on Swatch’s deep archive of past styles.

Feature Time

Bring a Loupe: A Quartz Vacheron 222, A Sonny Crockett Ebel, A Trio Of Vintage Yemas, And More

This installment spotlights a varied set of notable watches, led by a rare quartz Vacheron Constantin 222 and the Miami Vice–linked Ebel 1911 associated with Don Johnson’s character. It also dives into vintage Yema pieces, pointing to renewed collector interest in overlooked chronographs. The column mixes appreciation with buyer-beware guidance, including a cautionary example of a misidentified Tudor Ranger to underline the importance of diligence in the vintage market.

Do You Know The Difference Between Openworked And Skeletonized Watches? You Should

This article clarifies the often-muddled distinction between openworked and skeletonized watches, noting that “openworked” can sometimes be used loosely in marketing. Skeletonization involves intentionally cutting away movement components to reveal the mechanics, while openworked pieces may simply use transparent or partially transparent dials. It also explains how modern tools like CNC machining have expanded what’s possible, enabling cleaner, more intricate designs while still showcasing traditional craft.

Is Saving For A Rolex Submariner Worth It In 2026?

This feature examines whether putting money aside for a Rolex Submariner still makes sense in 2026, weighing market trends, brand reputation, and the broader economic backdrop. It considers the Submariner’s investment narrative versus the possibility that other watches could offer stronger value or less financial risk. Beyond the numbers, it also discusses the watch’s cultural prestige and emotional pull, encouraging buyers to be clear on whether they’re motivated by status, history, or long-term value.

Samuel Ross and Hublot’s new Big Bang is ‘driven by functionality first’

Samuel Ross’s collaboration with Hublot results in the Big Bang Unico SR_A, a limited 200-piece chronograph designed with wearability and practicality as the starting point. The watch pairs a monochrome ceramic case with a honeycomb-pattern rubber strap, aiming for comfort and a clean, contemporary look while showcasing the Unico chronograph movement. The perforated, honeycomb approach is presented as more than styling: it reduces visual mass and improves airflow to help minimize sweat during wear.

The ABCs of Time: Why Are Some Watch Cases Filled with Oil?

This explainer looks at the niche world of oil-filled watches and why some brands intentionally replace air with oil inside the case. It outlines practical benefits like improved legibility and reduced distortion—especially relevant underwater—while also noting that certain approaches can dramatically enhance water resistance. Because fully oil-filled designs generally don’t pair well with traditional mechanical movements, many examples lean quartz, making the appeal as much about the unique visual experience as it is about performance.

Vincent Calabrese Turns Watch Movements Into Sculptures

This profile traces how Vincent Calabrese reshaped modern independent watchmaking by turning movements into the main event rather than hiding them behind cases. It revisits his breakthrough Golden Bridge concept and later innovations like the flying tourbillon, highlighting how he pushed mechanical artistry forward during and after the quartz crisis. The piece also covers his role in advancing the independent scene through organizations like the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants, and emphasizes his playful, unconventional aesthetic built around movement-as-sculpture.

The Latest Time

Beaubleu

Beaubleu and the Monnaie de Paris Join Forces with La Pièce 1 & 2

Beaubleu partnered with the Monnaie de Paris to release two limited-edition models—La Pièce no. 1 and La Pièce no. 2—each limited to 888 pieces per colorway, using the mint’s dial-making techniques to create distinctive textures and relief details. Both share a 39mm steel case with hollowed flanks, sweeping lugs, and a hidden crown, but La Pièce no. 1 emphasizes a concave stepped dial with a floating seconds hand while La Pièce no. 2 is more ornate with polished bas-relief finishing. Each runs on a France Ebauches automatic movement with a 46-hour power reserve and offers multiple dial colors plus interchangeable mesh bracelet or leather strap options. Pricing is listed at €1,790 (about $2,060) on leather or €1,890 (about $2,180) on mesh.

Erebus

Erebus Twenty-Four

Erebus’ Twenty-Four puts a practical twist on the classic field watch by centering the display around a 24-hour (military time) format instead of the usual 12-hour layout. It comes in 38mm and 40mm case sizes with a wide range of dial variations, pairing straightforward legibility with a robust stainless-steel build, sapphire crystal, and lume. Inside is a modified Miyota 9000-series automatic movement with roughly a 40–42 hour power reserve, and the watch ships with both a color-matched leather strap and an additional NATO strap for versatility. The pricing is $499 for the 38mm and $599 for the 40mm.

Timex

Timex x Peanuts Pickleball Series

Timex teams up with Peanuts for a pickleball-themed trio that places Snoopy into playful on-court scenes across three different models. The lineup includes a 37mm Weekender with a recycled-plastic strap priced at $169, a 38mm Marlin Quartz at $249 featuring a floating pickleball seconds hand, and a 40mm Marlin Automatic at $349 powered by a Miyota automatic movement. The collection is positioned as approachable, giftable fun while still offering solid specs and recognizable Timex value. Overall, it’s a lighthearted capsule that keeps the designs whimsical without pushing prices out of reach.

Wearing Time - Reviews

Certina

Three Weeks With The Modern Certina DS-2

The modern Certina DS-2 aims to capture the spirit of the late-1960s original while still working as a genuinely capable everyday tool watch. Its striking red dial leans into vintage inspiration, but the build is thoroughly modern, including a robust case and a Powermatic 80 movement. After weeks of wear—including swimming in the Pacific—it comes across as versatile, resilient, and easy to live with. The review emphasizes that it avoids faux-aging while still feeling authentic to the DS-2 lineage.

Chopard

Coachbuilder Meets Watchmaker on the Chopard Zagato Lab One Concept

Chopard’s Zagato Lab One Concept is built around an avant-garde “chassis” concept, using a skeletal framework of ceramicised titanium tubes to prioritize rigidity while minimizing weight. The watch essentially replaces the traditional dial with an architectural display built around Zagato branding and an openworked presentation inspired by engine components, paired with a one-minute tourbillon. Despite the technical showmanship and bold form, the piece is designed to remain wearable and comfortable, and it ships with both a technical fabric strap and a calfskin option. The review frames it as a clear statement of experimentation, produced in a very small run of 19 pieces.

Citizen

Hands-On: The Citizen Eco-Drive Promaster Land GMT

Citizen’s Eco-Drive Promaster Land GMT is positioned as a practical, affordable travel watch with a field-watch sensibility and the convenience of light-powered charging. The GMT setup is a hybrid approach: the hour hand can jump forward but not backward, which can be a drawback when moving across time zones in both directions. The hands-on notes strong legibility and a well-finished build, including an anti-reflective sapphire crystal that supports the watch’s “use it anywhere” intent. Overall, it reads as a value-driven GMT that’s easy to recommend for buyers who want capability without the usual mechanical-GMT price jump.

Girard-Perregaux

Girard-Perregaux Planetarium Tri-Axial Tourbillon Watch Hands-On: Bulging With Earth

The Planetarium Tri-Axial is an ultra-high-end spectacle built around a triple-axis tourbillon that rotates in three dimensions, emphasizing animation and mechanical theater. Its 18k pink gold case is substantial at 48mm, and the display includes a hand-painted titanium globe along with celestial-style indications like moon phase and day/night. Even with its size, the hands-on notes it’s engineered to sit flat and wear comfortably, helped by an elegant blue alligator strap. The watch is presented as a collector-level statement where craftsmanship and visual impact take priority over restraint.

Maen

Maen Hudson MK5 Watch Review: An Incremental Update For A Mainstay Diver

The Maen Hudson 38 MK5 updates the brand’s core diver with subtle refinements rather than a full redesign, keeping the familiar 38mm footprint while pushing water resistance to 300 meters. Changes like a polished ceramic bezel insert and an upgraded bracelet with quick-release features modernize the package, while a slightly thicker, more vintage-leaning case shape shifts the feel on-wrist. The review likes the textured dial and syringe handset, but flags details like mixed finishing on lugs and endlinks and lume that could be stronger. It’s characterized as a solid, dependable diver anchored by the La Joux-Perret G100, even if it feels more like an incremental maintenance step than a leap forward.

Pequignet

Pequignet Royale Paris Icy Blue

Pequignet’s Royale Paris Icy Blue centers on a textured 39.5mm dial meant to evoke a winter Jura landscape, combining multiple finishing techniques to keep the surface lively while maintaining readability. The display packs in several indications—dual moon phase, day-date, and power reserve—yet the review notes the layout stays coherent rather than busy. Inside is the in-house Calibre Royal, notable for integrating complications on a single plate and delivering a long 96-hour power reserve, with components sourced locally around the manufacture. Overall, it’s presented as a blend of distinctive French design language and serious mechanical substance.

Rolex

Rolex Land-Dweller 36 owner’s review

The owner’s perspective on the Rolex Land-Dweller 36 argues the watch makes more sense in daily wear than early reactions suggested, especially thanks to its slim 9.6mm profile and balanced 36mm proportions. Design cues nod to vintage Rolex while still feeling modern, and the integrated flat-link Jubilee bracelet is called out for comfort and a more “complete” integrated look. Performance is a highlight, with the in-house Calibre 7135 described as running extremely accurately—around half a second per day in real use. Even the debated honeycomb dial is framed as something that ultimately supports the watch’s slightly futuristic character.

RZE

Hands-On With The New RZE Resolute Type A — A Whole Lot Of Pilot’s Watch For Your Money

The RZE Resolute Type A is a modern pilot-style watch built in UltraHex-coated Grade 2 titanium, aiming to deliver durability and lightness at an approachable price point. It uses an automatic Miyota caliber 82S0 with a 42-hour power reserve and pairs that with 100m water resistance for real everyday versatility. The hands-on emphasizes that the bead-blasted finishing and crisp dial feel more premium than the pricing suggests, even if the crown action isn’t perfectly smooth. Overall, it’s positioned as strong value in the pilot-watch space, with design rooted in historical aviation cues.

Comparing Time

Affordable GMT With Explorer II DNA: Nodus x Raven Watches TrailTrekker Basecamp

This comparison-style piece looks at the Nodus x Raven Watches TrailTrekker Basecamp as a budget-friendly GMT that borrows some of the visual “Explorer II” playbook while aiming to stay distinct. It emphasizes the watch’s mix of everyday versatility and travel-ready functionality, positioning it as something you can wear casually but still rely on for real use. The write-up also highlights the collaboration’s attention to build details and finishing, arguing it delivers strong quality without a luxury price. Overall, it frames the TrailTrekker Basecamp as a compelling option for buyers who like the Explorer II vibe but want an affordable alternative.

Buying Guide: Small But Mighty II, Six Mechanical Chronographs Under 40mm

This buying guide compares six sub-40mm mechanical chronographs for enthusiasts who want compact sizing without giving up capability or design credibility. It highlights a spread from more attainable options like the Atelier Nossedh AN.01 and Raymond Weil Millésime Chronograph to higher-tier choices like the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph, plus heavy-hitters such as the Zenith Chronomaster Original Blue. The piece underscores how each watch approaches the same goal—wearable proportions with serious chronograph hardware—through different aesthetics, movements, and price points. The overall takeaway is that the “small chronograph” category is thriving, with strong options across multiple budgets.

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Submariner Alternatives In 2026

This roundup compares five notable substitutes for the Rolex Submariner, chosen to span a range of styles and budgets while keeping the core “go-anywhere dive watch” appeal. The list includes heavy contenders like the Omega Seamaster Diver 300M and Tudor Black Bay “Monochrome,” plus options that shift size and presence like the Rolex Sea-Dweller. It also brings in a strong-value Japanese pick with Seiko’s Prospex Marinemaster SLA079 and a budget-friendly minimalist option in the Unimatic Modello Uno ProDiver. The piece reinforces that there are plenty of credible alternatives depending on whether you prioritize heritage, specs, or price.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 Vs. Overseas Self-Winding

This head-to-head compares two gold Vacheron Constantin icons: the Historiques 222, prized for its 1977-rooted story and slim, compact elegance, and the Overseas Self-Winding, valued for its more modern proportions and daily-wear versatility. The 222 is framed as the more historically loaded, refined statement—especially with its 37mm sizing and ultra-slim profile—while the Overseas leans practical with a 41mm case and interchangeable strap system. Both are praised for finishing and craftsmanship, but the decision is positioned as a choice between romance and heritage versus flexibility and contemporary usability. In the end, the comparison suggests your preference hinges on whether you want a faithful nod to a classic or a modern luxury sports watch built for variety.

Watches and Wonders 2026

Perspective: One Month to Watches and Wonders 2026—What Our Predictions Tell You Before We’re There

Watches and Wonders Geneva 2026 is framed as the event’s most ambitious edition yet, with 66 exhibiting brands and a new partnership with the Montreux Jazz Festival that signals a broader cultural push. The preview highlights major expected storylines, including Audemars Piguet’s return to the show alongside its 150th anniversary, plus anticipated anniversary-driven moves from Patek Philippe and Rolex. It also points to the rising stakes for exhibitors as standout releases from non-participating brands raise expectations ahead of Geneva. The piece positions the coming week of coverage as an early read on where trends and innovation in the industry are headed.

Editorial Time

According To Ariel: Why Artificial Intelligence (AI) Will Never Truly Replace Humans In The Luxury Industry

This editorial argues that AI is unlikely to fundamentally disrupt luxury because the category is built on human effort, intention, and emotional resonance. While AI can improve efficiency and support parts of design or operations, luxury buyers often value the story of craftsmanship—time, skill, and artistry—which is inseparable from people. It also emphasizes that authentic, high-touch human interaction remains central to the luxury purchase experience, with consumers preferring knowledgeable staff over automated systems. In this view, AI’s best role in luxury is as a tool that enhances human-led experiences rather than replacing them.

Deal Time

eBay Finds: A Killer Vintage Omega DeVille, a Vintage JDM Seiko Diver, and a Funky Hamilton Chronograph

This Deals roundup highlights a mix of distinctive vintage picks currently available on eBay, spanning everything from classic dressy pieces to bolder, design-forward chronographs. Standouts include an Omega Seamaster DeVille with a classic look and historical appeal, plus a rare JDM Seiko 6306-7001 diver that’s differentiated from the more common 6309 by its Japan-market details. The selection also calls out more unconventional shapes and aesthetics, like the Hamilton Chrono-Matic Fontainebleau (noted as needing service) and the asymmetrical Zodiac Olympos “mystery dial” style. Overall, it’s positioned as an opportunity for collectors to snag characterful watches from multiple eras, with condition notes to help buyers weigh value versus restoration needs.

Watching Time - Videos

20 Microbrand Watches I’d Buy RIGHT NOW - YouTube - Jag’s Watches

This video highlights 20 microbrand watches the creator would buy right now, focusing on what makes each pick stand out in today’s crowded market. The selections emphasize distinctive design, enthusiast-friendly features, and the sense of individuality microbrands often deliver. It also frames microbrands as a strong value proposition, frequently offering craftsmanship and creativity at prices that undercut mainstream luxury. Overall, it’s positioned as a practical shortlist for anyone looking to explore smaller brands with character.

Watch Now

How Cartier Quietly Took Over the Watch Industry - YouTube - Britt Pearce

This video breaks down how Cartier built outsized influence in watchmaking through a mix of heritage, design consistency, and smart positioning in luxury. It traces the brand’s ability to appeal to both traditional collectors and newer consumers by balancing classic icons with a modern, fashion-forward presence. Key milestones are used to show how Cartier strengthened its narrative of sophistication and exclusivity over time. The overall argument is that Cartier’s dominance wasn’t sudden—it was the result of long-term strategic execution.

Watch Now

How Tudor Watches Are ACTUALLY Made - YouTube - Teddy Baldassarre

This behind-the-scenes video walks through how Tudor watches are produced, from early design considerations through manufacturing and final assembly. It focuses on the craftsmanship and process discipline required to deliver consistency at scale, highlighting the human skill involved at each stage. The episode also looks at how Tudor blends traditional watchmaking methods with modern materials and production technology to maintain quality and performance. The result is an accessible tour of what goes into making a Tudor beyond the finished product.

Watch Now

Rolex in 2026: The Crash, the Chaos, and What It Means - YouTube - The Watch Bros

This video discusses the turbulence in the luxury watch market through the lens of Rolex, focusing on shifting prices, demand changes, and broader economic pressures. It lays out how market swings impact both collectors and everyday buyers, especially those who entered during peak hype cycles. The analysis connects Rolex’s movement to wider industry dynamics, suggesting the chaos could reshape how luxury watches are valued and perceived. It’s framed as a snapshot of a market recalibrating in real time.

Watch Now

Rolex Perditions 2026 - NEW 42mm GMT - YouTube - Brendan Boswell

This video spotlights a purported new Rolex 42mm GMT release, focusing on what’s notable about the model’s design and functional updates. It’s presented as a detailed overview meant for enthusiasts who want a quick but comprehensive rundown of the watch’s key specifications and changes versus prior GMT iterations. The commentary is positioned to build anticipation by highlighting the elements that could make the release significant for collectors. Overall, it aims to be a “first look” style briefing on the new GMT concept.

Watch Now

See Tim Mosso’s Three Watch Collection - YouTube - The 1916 Company

Tim Mosso walks through a personal three-watch collection, explaining what each piece contributes in terms of history, design, and practical wear. The video pairs strong visuals with detailed commentary, using the three watches as a way to talk about broader collecting philosophy and what makes a collection feel complete. Mosso’s perspective emphasizes craftsmanship and the stories embedded in each timepiece rather than pure hype or resale value. It’s structured as both entertainment and a learning-friendly overview for collectors at any level.

Watch Now

Swiss Watches Are COOKED (+More) - YouTube - Andrew Morgan Watches | The Talking Hands

This video argues that parts of the Swiss watch industry are under real pressure, pointing to factors like market saturation, shifting buyer priorities, and competition from smartwatches. It frames these headwinds as forces that challenge traditional brand playbooks and pricing structures. Alongside the critique, it suggests the disruption could push brands toward clearer differentiation and more meaningful innovation. The episode is positioned as a big-picture take on where Swiss watchmaking may be headed next.

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The watch brands that have gotten worse - YouTube - This Watch, That Watch

This video discusses watch brands the creator believes have declined over time, looking at how changes in design direction, production choices, and brand strategy can erode enthusiast trust. It connects these shifts to disappointment among collectors who value heritage, consistency, and perceived quality. The commentary invites viewers to think about how brand identity is built—and how quickly it can be weakened when decisions feel disconnected from what made the brand desirable. Overall, it’s a critical overview of brand trajectories in the modern market.

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Why Rolex’s Next Release Will Be “Boring” (And Why That’s Smart) 📉 - YouTube - Theo and Harris

This video argues that a “boring” Rolex release may be intentional strategy rather than creative failure, using restraint as a way to protect the brand’s timeless image. It suggests that subtle evolution helps Rolex avoid the boom-and-bust cycle of expectation that can follow more radical launches. The commentary frames consistency and refinement as part of Rolex’s long-term value proposition, appealing to buyers who prefer stability over novelty. The central takeaway is that understatement can be a competitive advantage in luxury.

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Talking Time - Podcasts

Scottish Watches Podcast #761 : All About The Glasgow Watch Show 2026 - Scottish Watches

This episode previews the return of the Glasgow Watch Show in 2026, set to take place at Hampden Park. It runs through the expanding roster of exhibitors, mixing established names with independents and microbrands, and highlights the appeal of seeing rare pieces in person. The discussion frames the show as an accessible, high-energy gathering fueled by the Scottish watch community, with affordable tickets and plenty to discover. Overall, it’s positioned as a practical “what to expect” listen ahead of the May event.

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SJX Podcast: State of the Industry 2026

This episode breaks down recent market reports (including Vontobel and EveryWatch) to explain what’s happening in both the primary and secondary watch markets. It discusses K-shaped dynamics, why certain independents (notably F.P. Journe) stand out, and how Cartier continues to perform across multiple price tiers. The conversation also explores the emotional drivers behind buying decisions and the growing “financialization” of collecting. It ultimately suggests that while market reports can be illuminating, they don’t always translate cleanly into actionable guidance for individual collectors.

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BuyingTime at Auction

A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com

[Friday’s auction watch, the 2024 Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Hodinkee - Limited to 350 Pieces (6041.7.01.008.10.5) - was bid to $5,775 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph 41 Titanium / Platinum / Slate Gray (26331IP.OO.1220IP.01)

Auction Report: Titanium Muscle, Platinum Flash: The Royal Oak Chronograph That Quietly Flexes

When Audemars Piguet unveiled the Royal Oak Chronograph ref. 26331 series at SIHH in 2017, it marked a major refresh of the brand’s modern chronograph lineup—coming roughly two decades after the original Royal Oak Chronograph debuted. Among the variations released that year, the titanium-and-platinum reference 26331IP.OO.1220IP.01 quickly became one of the most interesting combinations in the catalog: a watch that looks understated at a glance but quietly carries a lot of precious metal weight.

The formula is clever. The 41mm case is crafted primarily from lightweight titanium, but the bezel and several bracelet links are made from polished 950 platinum. The result is a watch that wears comfortably while still delivering the visual punch of platinum whenever the light hits that iconic octagonal bezel. Pair that with a slate gray “Grande Tapisserie” dial and contrasting chronograph counters and you have a piece that feels both technical and luxurious—the exact sort of aesthetic balance Audemars Piguet has been refining since the Royal Oak first rewrote the rules of luxury sports watches in 1972.

Inside the watch sits the automatic caliber 2385, a proven chronograph movement with about a 40-hour power reserve and the familiar tri-compax chronograph layout. It’s not the newest movement in the brand’s stable, but it has long been appreciated for its reliability and slim profile, helping the watch maintain the sleek proportions that collectors expect from the Royal Oak Chronograph family.

This particular titanium-and-platinum configuration was produced for only a relatively short period beginning around 2017 and has become something of a sleeper favorite among Royal Oak collectors. Some examples have been described as limited to around 500 pieces, which only adds to the appeal for buyers looking for something slightly rarer than the standard steel chronograph.

On the secondary market the reference has held up well. Recent listings hover around the high-$60,000 to low-$70,000 range, with notable auction sales reaching roughly $78,000 depending on condition and completeness of the set. Over the past several years, the model has outperformed the average Audemars Piguet watch in terms of price appreciation, climbing more than 40% over five years in some tracking indexes.

That context matters when evaluating the watch currently heading to auction. This example lacks both box and papers, which will almost certainly shave a meaningful amount off the hammer price. Collectors at this level tend to like their Royal Oaks complete, and when you’re spending north of $60,000 on a watch, the cardboard and booklets suddenly start looking pretty important.

Condition, however, appears solid. The dial, hands, and crystal are reported as excellent, while the titanium case and bracelet show the usual light wear you’d expect from a sports watch that was actually worn. Given how easily the sharp facets of a Royal Oak can reveal over-polishing, honest wear is often preferable to an over-restored example.

All of which sets up an interesting auction dynamic when bidding closes at 5:20 p.m. EDT on Monday, March 16. Without the box and papers, this piece may trade at a noticeable discount to the typical dealer listings floating around the $70,000 mark. But the reference itself—combining titanium practicality with platinum swagger—remains one of the more intriguing Royal Oak chronographs of the modern era.

For the right buyer, this might be the kind of Royal Oak that quietly slips onto the wrist and then refuses to leave. And in the world of Audemars Piguet, that’s usually when the real collecting begins.

— Michael Wolf

Current bid: $40,500

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BuyingTime Daily - March 13, 2026

Fri, 13 Mar 2026 10:16:05 GMT

Go to our Live News Site

Time Graphing today’s watch universe

The watch world is waking up this morning with a familiar story: scarcity, speculation, and a healthy dose of rumor swirling around Rolex. Reports that the GMT-Master II “Pepsi” may have been discontinued are pushing secondary-market pricing toward the $30,000 mark, with some listings stretching even higher as dealers lean heavily into the certified pre-owned narrative. Whether the discontinuation proves real or simply a supply hiccup remains unclear, but the reaction illustrates the peculiar gravity that certain Rolex references exert on collectors. The Pepsi’s lineage stretches back to the original 1955 GMT-Master built for Pan Am pilots, and the modern ceramic-bezel revival launched in 2018 has spent most of its life living on waiting lists. If the taps have truly been turned off, expect the speculative machine to run at full speed for a while.

Meanwhile, TAG Heuer reshuffled the executive deck by naming Béatrice Goasglas as its new CEO, effective May 1. Goasglas has been deeply involved in the brand’s digital strategy and the Connected smartwatch program since joining in 2018, and her promotion suggests that the LVMH brand intends to double down on modern retail dynamics—particularly e-commerce and data-driven client relationships. The move arrives at a time when luxury brands increasingly need both heritage and digital fluency to stay competitive, and TAG Heuer appears to be leaning into that reality rather than resisting it.

On the ambassador front, Grand Seiko scored a high-profile global partnership with baseball phenomenon Shohei Ohtani, who officially joins the brand on April 1. The two-way superstar—pitcher and hitter—embodies the sort of precision and discipline that Grand Seiko loves to align itself with, but the significance here is geographic as much as symbolic. Historically, the brand relied heavily on regional ambassadors in Asia, but Ohtani’s global fame gives Grand Seiko a far broader platform, particularly in North America where the brand continues to push for stronger recognition among collectors.

Retail expansion remains alive and well too, with Omega opening a new boutique in Austin’s Domain Northside following five consecutive years of record sales. The launch event featured actor Glen Powell, an Austin native and brand ambassador, and underscores how aggressively Omega continues to invest in U.S. retail presence. Austin has quietly become a strong luxury-watch market as tech wealth spreads beyond traditional coastal cities, and the boutique’s moon-landing-inspired interior design reminds visitors that Omega still plans to lean heavily on its storytelling heritage.

Not every brand is riding the same wave, however. Fossil Group reported a break-even fourth quarter for 2025 after an 18% sales decline year-over-year. That might sound modest, but for a company that was flirting with serious financial trouble only months ago, stabilization itself counts as progress. A restructuring of $150 million in unsecured debt helped prevent a potential Chapter 11 scenario, and management says the turnaround strategy will focus on tightening costs and concentrating on its core brands. Whether that translates into sustained growth remains an open question, but at least the ship has stopped taking on water.

The industry also paused to remember Philipp Wolf IV, longtime leader of the luxury accessories company WOLF, who passed away at 89. Wolf spent decades expanding the brand internationally after joining the family business in 1958 and helped establish it as one of the best-known names in watch winders and storage systems. His leadership helped connect the accessory world to the watch industry itself, making WOLF boxes and winders a familiar sight in collectors’ homes around the globe.

Collectors following the independent scene have a new auction to watch as well. Marteau & Co launched “The Echo,” an online-only sale dedicated to independent watchmaking, running March 12 through March 19. The concept introduces a “Maker’s Fee,” which gives the original watchmaker a share of the hammer price—an unusual move that effectively brings resale royalties into the watch world. With pieces ranging from Daniel Roth chronographs to technical creations from F. P. Journe, the sale reflects a growing awareness that independent watchmakers deserve a stronger financial stake in the secondary market built around their work.

Elsewhere, a feature on the Swiss village of Sainte-Croix reminds readers that mechanical art—automata, music boxes, and other intricate machines—remains a living tradition rather than a museum curiosity. Educational programs and modern tools like 3D printing are helping the next generation carry forward the craft, proving that the Jura region’s reputation for delicate mechanics extends well beyond wristwatches. And in Helsinki, independent watchmaker Juha Eskola is emerging as another name to watch after debuting his N1, a moonphase watch built with a German-silver three-quarter plate and a clear devotion to traditional finishing.

New releases provided plenty to browse as well. Breitling introduced a reverse-panda version of the Superocean Heritage B01 Chronograph 42, pairing vintage cues with a modern in-house chronograph movement and 70 hours of power reserve. Farer went in the opposite direction, expanding its cushion-case lineup with compact 35mm watches in bold raspberry and teal dial colors powered by a manual-wind Sellita movement. Fortis reinforced its tool-watch credentials with an updated Marine Master M44 featuring a DLC-coated case, 500 meters of water resistance, and a Kenissi movement inside. Girard-Perregaux moved into the realm of haute horlogerie with its new Minute Repeater Flying Bridges, a pink-gold skeletonized watch combining a tourbillon and minute repeater around the brand’s floating bridge architecture. Meanwhile, Hamilton introduced the Jazzmaster Quartz Octet series—eight accessible everyday watches in multiple dial colors—and Serica debuted the 5330 Dive Chronometer, the brand’s first model to add a date window while maintaining its understated vintage diver aesthetic.

Hands-on reviews highlighted some serious mechanical artistry. The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Skeleton showcased the reborn brand’s focus on elegant skeletonization and meticulous finishing, while the Louis Erard Astro Boy collaboration proved that playful pop-culture design can still coexist with serious Swiss mechanics. At the extreme end of the spectrum, the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Grande Complication demonstrated what happens when watchmakers decide subtlety is overrated, combining a flying tourbillon, minute repeater, and perpetual calendar into one spectacularly complex package.

For those hunting the mythical “one-watch collection,” a comparison piece examined everything from humble Casio classics to icons like the Rolex Submariner, arguing that durability, legibility, and versatility ultimately matter more than brand prestige. An accompanying opinion essay suggested that the next real innovation in watchmaking may come not from new complications but from a renewed appreciation of traditional craft—symbolized by something as simple as a paintbrush in a watchmaker’s hand.

The events calendar also remains busy. British Watchmakers’ Day drew a packed crowd earlier this month, reinforcing the momentum behind the UK’s independent watch scene. Meanwhile, Geneva’s Time to Watches Village returns in April with more than 85 brands and a social-first format designed to encourage conversation rather than just product launches.

On the video front, there is plenty to queue up tonight: Fratello’s roundtable on the microbrands worth watching in 2026, The 1916 Company’s predictions for Watches & Wonders, Subdial’s exploration of rule-breaking watch designs, and a grail-level tour of rare Audemars Piguet pieces from the Zero to Sixty channel. Swiss Watch Gang dives into the mechanics of sourcing ultra-rare pieces from brands like F. P. Journe, while Chisholm Hunter counts down ten sports watches they can’t stop thinking about. For the data-minded crowd, WATCHES TV breaks down the latest Morgan Stanley industry report.

Finally, a quick note from the auction desk. Yesterday’s Ming 37.05 Series 2 Moonphase topped out at $3,013 but failed to meet its reserve, suggesting there may still be room for a private offer. Meanwhile, attention shifts to the current Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Hodinkee Limited Edition—an unworn 2024 example with a current bid of $3,700 and an auction closing tomorrow afternoon. For fans of automotive-inspired chronographs and stealth-black design, that one could get interesting before the hammer falls.

All in all, the watch universe continues its usual rhythm: rumors pushing steel sports watches skyward, independents experimenting with new auction models, and brands from Breitling to Serica filling the pipeline with fresh releases. As always, the real challenge isn’t finding something interesting—it’s deciding which watch story you’re going to obsess over first tonight.

-Michael Wolf

News Time

Rolex GMT Pepsi prices could hit $30,000

Secondary-market prices for the Rolex GMT-Master II “Pepsi” are climbing toward $30,000 amid reports that the model has been discontinued, with some listings far higher than that benchmark. Dealers are also leaning into premium pricing for certified pre-owned examples, adding warranties that further shape buyer expectations. While Rolex has not publicly confirmed the discontinuation, reported delivery stoppages are pushing waitlisted customers to consider alternatives, fueling demand and scarcity-driven pricing. The story also highlights the model’s long lineage from the original 1955 GMT-Master and the modern version’s 2018 relaunch with upgraded materials and performance.

TAG Heuer Names Béatrice Goasglas CEO

TAG Heuer has appointed Béatrice Goasglas as CEO starting May 1, 2026, following an unexpected leadership departure earlier this year. Goasglas, currently president of the Americas, rose through roles focused on digital marketing and client experience after joining the brand in 2018. Her background includes major involvement in TAG Heuer’s Connected smartwatch efforts, signaling continuity with the brand’s push into modern consumer behavior. The appointment points to a strategy centered on stronger e-commerce, sharper client relationships, and staying competitive in a luxury market that increasingly rewards digital fluency.

Shohei Ohtani Joins Grand Seiko As A Global Ambassador

Shohei Ohtani has been named a global ambassador for Grand Seiko effective April 1, aligning with a major moment in his career as he leads Japan in the World Baseball Classic and heads into the MLB season with the Dodgers. The partnership underscores his rare two-way dominance as both pitcher and hitter, along with a run of top-tier accolades and championships. For Grand Seiko, it signals a notable shift from primarily regional faces to a truly global sports star, aimed at expanding the brand’s international reach. Ohtani also emphasized his appreciation for the brand’s heritage, suggesting a values match that Grand Seiko can build on in future campaigns.

Omega builds on record year with new boutique in Austin

Omega is extending its momentum in the U.S. after five straight years of record sales, crediting strong launches and a wave of boutique openings. Its newest boutique in Austin’s Domain Northside is designed to keep that growth going, with a launch event featuring brand ambassador and Austin native Glen Powell alongside Omega U.S. leadership. The store leans into Omega’s signature retail design, including bright surfaces, red accents, and moon-landing-inspired artwork. The opening also reflects Austin’s growing luxury-watch retail scene, with other major jewelers investing in the market.

Fossil Group breaks even as turnaround plan gains traction - WATCHPRO USA

Fossil Group reported a break-even fourth quarter in 2025 after an 18% year-over-year sales decline, marking a meaningful stabilization after the company had been at risk of administration. A key move was restructuring $150 million in unsecured debt, which helped avoid a potential Chapter 11 filing. The quarter delivered a small operating profit, a sharp improvement from the prior year’s loss, even as broader regional sales challenges persisted. Management says the turnaround plan now centers on prioritizing core brands and tightening the cost structure to return to growth and strengthen long-term profitability.

Philipp Wolf, Fourth Generation Leader Of WOLF, Has Died

Philipp Wolf IV, longtime leader of luxury accessories company WOLF, has died at 89, closing a major chapter in the brand’s family-run history. After joining the business in 1958, he helped expand WOLF internationally and played a key role in building manufacturing capabilities and partnerships across jewelry and watch markets. Beyond business, he was known for an energetic personal life spanning aviation, music, and cycling, reflecting a larger-than-life presence. He is survived by his wife Judie, his son Simon (who leads the company), two daughters, and five grandchildren, with funeral arrangements still to come.

Feature Time

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Marteau & Co

Marteau & Co has launched The Echo, an online-only auction centered on independent watchmaking, following the success of its earlier sale, First Strike. A key novelty is the “Maker’s Fee,” which gives watchmakers a percentage of the hammer price—an uncommon, resale-rights-style approach in this corner of the industry. The catalog spans important independent names and styles, from historically significant pieces like the Daniel Roth Chronograph Ref. 2147 to technically ambitious watches like the F.P. Journe Chronomètre Optimum. Running March 12–19, the auction positions itself as both a collector opportunity and a way to financially support the makers behind the work.

Sainte-Croix: The Beating Heart of Mechanical Art

Sainte-Croix, in the Jura region, is portrayed as a modern stronghold of mechanical art—especially automata—supported by institutions and community groups dedicated to keeping these skills alive. The article traces how the area’s legacy (watchmaking, music boxes, and precision craft) evolved into a broader “mechanical art” identity, with education and training designed to pass techniques to the next generation. It also shows how new tools like 3D printing are expanding what’s possible while preserving the charm and artistry that make automata compelling. Partnerships and interest from luxury maisons underscore that this craft isn’t just surviving—it’s becoming culturally and commercially relevant again.

Portrait: Juha Eskola, The Latest Indie Discovery From Finland

Juha Eskola is a Helsinki-based independent watchmaker creating small-run, highly personal watches that foreground craft, proportion, and aesthetic balance. His path into watchmaking started early, intensified after encountering an automatic watch, and ultimately led him through formal training at the Finnish School of Watchmaking. The piece highlights his debut N1—featuring a moonphase and a German-silver three-quarter plate bridge—as a statement of intent to build meaningful work under his own name. It also notes a collaborative working environment with other watchmakers and his ambition to keep developing new models while supporting future talent.

The Latest Time

Breitling

Breitling Introduces The Stylish Reverse-Panda Superocean Heritage B01 Chronograph 42

Breitling’s new Reverse-Panda Superocean Heritage B01 Chronograph 42 channels the look of the 1957 SuperOcean ref. 807 while delivering modern spec and finishing. The watch pairs a black dial with two silver sub-dials in a 42mm steel case, topped with a black ceramic bezel, and it’s rated to 200 meters. Inside is the in-house B01 automatic chronograph, offering a 70-hour power reserve in a clean two-register layout that keeps the design legible and purpose-built. Price: about $10,700 on rubber or $11,100 on mesh bracelet.

Farer

The New Farer Cushion Case Watches Make a Case for 35mm

Farer expands its Cushion Case line with two new 35mm models—Furneaux and Belzoni—using a more dramatic scaled-down case profile than the prior 38.5mm versions. Both feature distinctive gradient-textured dials, with the Furneaux in raspberry pink and the Belzoni in teal, aiming squarely at a compact dress-watch feel with bold color. Power comes from a Sellita SW210-1 b Elaboré movement, shown through an exhibition caseback and backed by a stated 45-hour power reserve. Price: $1,165.

Fortis

Fortis Marine Master M44

Fortis updates the Marine Master M44 with a new DLC coating for a tougher, more monochrome look, while keeping the line’s serious tool-watch intent. The watch is engineered for extreme use with 500 meters of water resistance and is paired with a textured FKM rubber strap for durability and comfort. Two dial variants differentiate the vibe—one leaning vintage with beige accents, the other more modern with polished steel details—without changing the core architecture. The watches are powered by a Kenissi automatic caliber with a 70-hour power reserve and COSC certification.

Girard-Perregaux

Girard-Perregaux Chimes the Time In-House

Girard-Perregaux’s Minute Repeater Flying Bridges showcases the new in-house GP9530, combining a minute repeater and tourbillon in a highly openworked, “floating” style presentation. Set in a 44mm pink gold case, the skeletonized architecture is designed to put the mechanics front and center while maintaining a cohesive, mostly monochrome palette against the warm metal. The piece signals the brand’s renewed emphasis on serious complications and fine finishing, including extensive hand work and elaborate beveling across the movement components. It delivers a 60-hour power reserve and 30 meters of water resistance, blending traditional complication-making with a modern visual language.

Hamilton

Ladies And Gentlemen, The Hamilton Jazzmaster Quartz Octet! A One, And A Two, And A One, Two, Three, Four

Hamilton’s Jazzmaster Quartz Octet launches as an eight-watch range offered in 40mm and 32mm sizes with six dial colors, aiming for an everyday dress-watch look with straightforward quartz practicality. The watches emphasize clean lines and contemporary finishing, pairing sunray-brushed dials with a steel case and a three-row bracelet. Details like dauphine-style hands and 50 meters of water resistance keep the formula versatile for daily wear rather than purely formal use. Price: about $510.

Serica

Serica Introduces The 5330 Dive Chronometer — The Brand’s First Watch To Feature A Date Window

Serica’s new 5330 Dive Chronometer adds a date window for the first time, while keeping the brand’s familiar 39mm case profile and restrained, vintage-leaning dive aesthetic. The update includes a dark gray ceramic bezel and a matte black dial, with the date positioned at 3 o’clock in an eggshell-toned frame with red numerals to maintain legibility. Inside is the COSC-certified Soprod M100 automatic movement, paired with a 42-hour power reserve, and the watch is designed to wear especially well on the brand’s mesh bracelet. Price: about $1,990.

Wearing Time - Reviews

Daniel Roth

Hands-On: The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Skeleton

The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Skeleton signals a fresh start for the relaunched brand, leaning into a pared-back, elegant design while showing off a fully skeletonized architecture. A standout detail is the 18k rose gold movement, which provides a rich visual contrast and emphasizes the craftsmanship throughout. It runs at 4Hz, delivers a 65-hour power reserve, and includes a power reserve indicator for practical day-to-day usability despite the showpiece construction. Positioned as a limited-production high-horology watch, it carries a price of CHF 85,000 and is aimed squarely at collectors who value finishing and mechanical artistry.

Louis Erard

Louis Erard 2340 X Astro Boy Watch Hands-On: A Refined Pop Art Character Dial

This Louis Erard 2340 collaboration with Tezuka Productions uses Astro Boy as the centerpiece of a layered, character-driven dial that blends pop art fun with real watchmaking intent. The design keeps the figure visually dominant while using muted background elements so the watch remains readable and wearable, not just novelty. Housed in a 40mm case mixing steel and titanium, it’s powered by a Swiss automatic movement with a 56-hour power reserve, targeting casual versatility with a distinctive look. Limited to 178 pieces, it’s priced at CHF 3,990 and offers a different, more expressive alternative within the 2340 line.

Roger Dubuis

Hands-On: Roger Dubuis Excalibur Grande Complication Bi-Retrograde Watch

The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Grande Complication is built around an extreme “everything at once” approach, combining a bi-retrograde perpetual calendar with a flying tourbillon and a minute repeater. Its display is arranged to emphasize drama and legibility, pairing retrograde indications for date and day with a bold blue aesthetic and a strong wrist presence. The RD118 caliber is highly complex—684 components—and its finishing is underscored by the Geneva Seal, framing the watch as a true grand complication rather than a styling exercise. With a 45mm case and substantial thickness, it’s an unapologetically statement-making piece priced at $691,000.

Comparing Time

11 Ultimate One Watch Collection Candidates: Top Picks After Testing

This piece looks at what makes a true “one-watch collection” work in real life: practicality, comfort, reliability, and the ability to handle a wide range of daily situations. It compares watches across a broad spectrum—from inexpensive, no-nonsense options like classic Casios to higher-end icons like the Rolex Submariner—through the lens of long-term wearability. Specific picks are evaluated for traits like durability, water resistance, legibility, and ease of use, arguing that these functional details matter as much as brand or prestige. The takeaway is a shortlist of versatile watches that can realistically become an everyday default while still matching personal style.

Opinion Time

Essays: Could The Most Radical Innovation In Watchmaking For 2026 Be A Paintbrush?

This essay argues that the most meaningful “innovation” in watchmaking might come from subtracting complexity rather than adding it, using the humble single-bristle paintbrush as a symbol of craft-first progress. It suggests that the industry’s fixation on incremental technical advances can eclipse the emotional pull and artistry of handmade processes. With fewer artisans entering the trade, the piece frames traditional skills as increasingly fragile—but also points to independent watchmakers and new training efforts as reasons for optimism. The conclusion is a call to balance technology with renewed respect for patience, mastery, and the human stories embedded in watchmaking.

Event Time

Gallery: British Watchmakers’ Day 2026

The third annual British Watchmaker’s Day took place on March 7, 2026, drawing a packed crowd of brands and enthusiasts and reinforcing the momentum behind the British independent watch scene. The write-up emphasizes the event’s personality and collaborative spirit, along with the appeal of event-specific limited editions and the excitement of seeing standout watches in one place. A large photo gallery captures the highlights and the energy of the day, underscoring that the community aspect is as much the point as the products. The piece frames the fair as a yearly anchor for collectors and media who keep coming back for the mix of craftsmanship and camaraderie.

The Time to Watches Village

Time to Watches returns for its fifth edition during Geneva Watch Week in April 2026 at Villa Sarasin, expanding into a network of spaces meant to feel more fluid and curated. With more than 85 exhibiting brands, the focus is on independent watchmaking, approachable luxury, and creating an environment that encourages genuine conversation rather than just product launches. Beyond the watches, the event leans into social programming—breakfasts, an opening night show, and informal interactions among journalists, influencers, and enthusiasts. Its central social hub, the Garden, is positioned as the heart of the experience, and the organizers also plan to extend the concept with a U.S. edition in Las Vegas in May.

Watching Time - Videos

Fratello Talks: The Microbrands To Watch In 2026 - YouTube - Fratello

This episode of Fratello Talks surveys microbrands that could be worth watching in 2026, focusing on what makes smaller makers compelling in a crowded market. The discussion highlights how microbrands often prioritize distinctive design, focused craftsmanship, and strong brand narratives over mass-market scale. It frames these companies as potential disruptors that can capture collector attention through originality and tight product execution. Overall, it’s positioned as a trend-and-discovery watch for anyone tracking the next wave of interesting independents.

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Watches & Wonders 2026: Our Predictions (and Wishes) - YouTube - The 1916 Company

This video looks ahead to Watches & Wonders 2026 with predictions, wish lists, and broader expectations for where the industry might go next. It uses the upcoming show as a springboard to discuss potential releases, tech developments, and design directions that could shape the year’s conversation. The tone is forward-looking and community-driven, encouraging viewers to compare their own takes with the presenters’ forecasts. It’s essentially a pre-show roadmap for what to pay attention to as the event approaches.

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Watches That Break The Rules | Drop #268 - YouTube - Subdial

Drop #268 spotlights watches that intentionally reject traditional norms, centering on unconventional design choices and unusual mechanical or material approaches. It frames “rule-breaking” as both an aesthetic stance and an engineering opportunity, where modern techniques can enable shapes, layouts, and concepts that older constraints discouraged. The video balances visual exploration with commentary on why these pieces matter in an industry that often leans conservative. It’s aimed at viewers who enjoy the more experimental edge of contemporary watchmaking.

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ON TIME: Collector Shows Rarest Audemars Piguet Watches Ever Made - YouTube - ᴢᴇʀᴏ ᴛᴏ ꜱɪxᴛʏ

This video showcases a collector’s selection of exceptionally rare Audemars Piguet watches, emphasizing both the craftsmanship and the exclusivity that drive collector fascination. It focuses on what makes these pieces special—design execution, mechanical details, and the historical context that elevates certain references into legend status. The presentation also leans into storytelling, using each watch as a way to illustrate AP’s broader legacy in high-end horology. It’s designed as an educational deep dive as much as a visual tour of grail-level collecting.

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How To Find & Sell The Rarest Watches In The World - F.P. Journe, Berneron, Simon Brette & More! - YouTube - Swiss Watch Gang

This video is a practical explainer on navigating the ultra-rare end of the watch market, using brands like F.P. Journe, Berneron, and Simon Brette as examples. It covers how scarcity is created and recognized, and what collectors should look for when sourcing and evaluating genuinely rare pieces. A major theme is the business side—market dynamics, provenance, and the network/knowledge required to buy and sell effectively. It’s positioned as a strategy-focused watch for collectors who want to understand how the top tier of the market functions.

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Top 10 Sports Watches I’m OBSESSED With - YouTube - Chisholm Hunter

This video presents a top-10 list of sports watches, focusing on what makes each pick appealing from both a functionality and style standpoint. It emphasizes versatility—watches that can handle active use while still looking good as everyday wear. The structure is fast-moving and list-driven, with each selection framed around standout features and overall design appeal. It’s intended as a watchable roundup for anyone shopping or browsing for modern sporty options.

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STATE OF THE INDUSTRY - Morgan Stanley Report - Part 2 - YouTube - WATCHES TV

This video summarizes and discusses key themes from a Morgan Stanley “state of the industry” report, focusing on trends and metrics shaping the current watch market landscape. It’s structured to translate a research-style overview into a more accessible, watchable format, emphasizing what the data suggests about where the industry is heading. The content is more macro than product-specific, aimed at viewers interested in market dynamics rather than individual releases. Overall, it serves as a high-level briefing for enthusiasts and investors who want context for the broader business environment.

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Talking Time - Podcasts

Scottish Watches Podcast #760 : British Watchmakers Day 2026 - What Happened - Scottish Watches

Episode #760 recaps British Watchmakers’ Day 2026, highlighting how the third edition has grown in scale and polish while continuing to celebrate modern UK horology. The discussion walks through standout moments from the event, including the atmosphere on the floor, notable brands, and the excitement around new releases. It also frames the show as a key gathering point for independent makers, collectors, and enthusiasts, reflecting the broader resurgence of British watchmaking. Insights from Katya of the Alliance of British Watch and Clockmakers, plus interviews with brands like Fears and Studio Underdog, add depth to the on-the-ground coverage.

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BuyingTime at Auction

A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com

[Thursday’s auction watch, the 2023 Ming 37.05 Series 2 Moonphase 38 Steel / Sunray brushed Anthracite Metal / Strap - Limited to 500 Pieces (37.05 Series 2) - was bid to just $3,013 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]

2024 Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Hodinkee - Limited to 350 Pieces (6041.7.01.008.10.5)

Auction Report: The Coolest Car-Guy Chronograph You Probably Won’t See Twice

The 2024 Porsche Design Chronograph 1 Hodinkee is one of those watches that knows exactly what it is and, more importantly, refuses to apologize for it. This is not a flashy collaboration in the modern limited-edition sense, with loud colors, gimmicky packaging, or some tortured backstory about “community.” It is a blacked-out, instrument-panel chronograph built around one of the most durable design ideas in modern watchmaking: the original 1972 Porsche Design Chronograph 1, the watch that helped define the all-black tool-watch genre in the first place. That original watch was designed by F. A. Porsche, took its visual cues from automotive gauges, and was sold through Porsche dealerships after its early success. The Hodinkee edition keeps that lineage front and center, while updating the package with a titanium case and bracelet, matte-black titanium-carbide coating, a COSC-certified Porsche Design WERK 01.140 automatic chronograph movement, 100 meters of water resistance, and a 48-hour power reserve. It was produced in a run of 350 pieces and launched at $9,650.

That history matters because this watch is not merely “inspired by” an old favorite. It is consciously trying to answer a very specific question: what would the Chronograph 1 look like if it were executed today without ruining the original idea? The answer, thankfully, is that Porsche Design and Hodinkee did not get cute. The watch keeps the unmistakable 6-9-12 subdial layout, the dashboard-born legibility, the stealthy case profile, and the hard-edged functionalism that made the original such a cult piece. Even the details are unusually disciplined. The rehaut includes the old “1 Mile” marking, the dial carries only a subtle nod to Hodinkee, and the closed caseback gets the limited-edition numbering and collaboration engraving rather than a view of the movement. In other words, this thing behaves like a proper tool watch, even though most of its buyers are probably timing absolutely nothing more dangerous than an espresso shot or a Porsche club brunch.

From a collector’s standpoint, the appeal is easy to understand. You have a limited run of 350 pieces, a collaboration partner with a built-in enthusiast audience, a famous industrial design lineage, and a case-and-bracelet execution that feels much more serious than the average media-collab special edition. The titanium construction also helps. At roughly 41mm, the watch has real presence, but the material and finish keep it from feeling like a cinder block on the wrist. And unlike so many modern black watches that look menacing in product photography and vaguely silly in person, the Chronograph 1 still works because the underlying design was born from pure legibility and function. That is the secret sauce here. The darkness is not fashion first. It is history first.

As for value, the market appears reasonably healthy but not delirious, which may actually be the good news. Retail was $9,650, and current secondary asking prices that surfaced publicly are clustering below that, with examples around $8,060 to $8,611, while at least one recent Bezel auction listing for the same reference went unsold. That suggests this is not some instant-flip rocket ship, but rather a narrower enthusiast watch whose buyer pool is made up of people who specifically understand the Porsche Design story, appreciate the Hodinkee tie-in, and want this exact expression of the Chronograph 1. In practical terms, that means the watch has become attainable on the secondary market without collapsing into bargain-bin territory.

That makes this particular auction lot interesting. An unworn 2024 example with box, papers, and product literature is about as clean a version of the proposition as you could want. If someone missed the original drop and still wants the watch as intended, this is the kind of lot that removes a lot of the usual friction. No condition drama, no incomplete set, no “light wear consistent with ownership” euphemisms doing heroic labor. It is the full package, and in a watch like this, completeness matters because the appeal is tied as much to the limited-edition narrative as it is to the hardware itself.

My view is that the sweet spot here is below retail but not dramatically below it. Once you get into the low $8,000s, the watch begins to look pretty compelling for a buyer who wants a genuinely distinctive modern chronograph with real design credibility. Push too close to original retail and the equation gets tougher, simply because this is still a very specific taste and not the kind of universally liquid sports watch that bails you out later. But at the right number, it is a sharp buy: historically grounded, visually coherent, and uncommon enough to stay interesting long after the latest hot collab has gone cold.

With the auction ending at 4:40 p.m. EDT on Saturday, March 14, 2026, this feels like one to watch less for speculative fireworks and more for a sanity check on where the market currently values thoughtful modern limited editions. My guess is that the winning bidder will not be buying it because they think it is the next frenzy watch. They will be buying it because they get it. And in this corner of the watch world, that is usually a better reason.

Current bid: $3,700

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BuyingTime Daily - March 12, 2026

Thu, 12 Mar 2026 10:15:32 GMT

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Time Graphing today’s watch universe

The watch world continues to prove that timekeeping is never just about telling the time. It is also about trademarks, billionaires, fashion collaborations, and the endless debate about what truly defines horological prestige. Today’s headlines begin with a small but notable legal skirmish as Astor+Banks has temporarily halted assembly and shipping of its Terra Scout field watch after Scout Motors raised concerns over the use of the word “Scout.” The Chicago-based watch brand argues that electric vehicles and wristwatches are hardly competing product categories, but the trademark dispute has still been enough to pause fulfillment. In the meantime, the company says it is focusing on keeping customers informed and offering refunds to anyone who prefers not to wait while the lawyers sort it out.

In more collaborative news, Citizen is taking a very different route by teaming up with fashion designer Vera Wang on a 24-watch collection slated for Spring 2027. The project arrives as Citizen celebrates the 50th anniversary of its Eco-Drive technology and signals a deeper push into the fashion and women’s watch categories. Rather than a simple branding exercise, Wang is expected to have meaningful design input, blending her minimalist aesthetic with the practicality of light-powered movements that never need a battery swap.

A pair of thoughtful features round out the industry conversation today. One takes readers back into the golden age of British chronometer making with a look at Charles Frodsham, the 19th-century horologist whose precision instruments helped guide ships across oceans when navigation depended on accuracy measured in seconds. Another piece looks squarely at the modern era, dissecting the increasingly serious watch collection of tech billionaire Mark Zuckerberg. Once known for the hoodie-and-T-shirt uniform, Zuckerberg has recently been spotted wearing increasingly complicated and expensive pieces, suggesting that watches have quietly become part of his evolving public image.

There’s also a healthy dose of mechanical philosophy in the mix. An editor’s column examines five tourbillon watches released over the past year that actually push the complication forward rather than simply using it as luxury decoration. Meanwhile, a lively opinion piece argues that Jaeger-LeCoultre occupies a strange middle ground between the status magnetism of Rolex and the prestige aura of Patek Philippe, raising the question of whether the brand should reposition itself as the intellectual watchmaker for collectors who care more about craft than hype. Speaking of Patek Philippe, another commentary suggests the Geneva giant should finally enter the certified pre-owned market, following the example set by Rolex, in order to maintain tighter control over how its watches circulate in the secondary ecosystem.

New watch releases today cover a wide spectrum of price and personality. The BND Dive Watch MK.3 refines Vincent Bonnaud’s tool-watch concept with 300 meters of water resistance and a rugged Seiko NH38A movement, arriving in three limited colorways. Eska introduces the Amphibian 250 Destro, a left-hand-friendly diver with the crown at nine o’clock and powered by a Sellita SW200. Kollokium pushes design boundaries again with its Projekt 02 Variant B, featuring a dramatic layered dial built from dozens of stacked plates that create a topographic gradient from grey to deep black. Luminox updates its Navy SEAL chronograph with a sand-colored desert palette while retaining its signature tritium tube illumination. And Nivada Grenchen brings a little cosmic flair to the integrated sports watch category with the F77 MKII, pairing a compact 38mm case with an aventurine dial that resembles a star-filled night sky.

On the review front, one of the more serious pieces of haute horlogerie to cross the desk recently gets the hands-on treatment. The Louis Vuitton Escale Minute Repeater demonstrates how the fashion house’s watch division has quietly evolved into a legitimate high-complication player, combining a minute repeater with jump hours, retrograde minutes, and elaborate guilloché finishing. With a price around $350,000, it is not exactly an impulse purchase—but it is a reminder that the brand’s La Fabrique du Temps manufacture has ambitions well beyond accessories.

Elsewhere in the watch universe, travel watches are getting their moment with a roundup highlighting everything from budget GMTs to elaborate worldtimers designed for collectors constantly crossing time zones. And with Watches and Wonders only weeks away, speculation is already heating up around what Tudor might unveil for its 100th anniversary year. Predictions include a possible revival of the Oysterdate Big Block chronograph, new colors for the Black Bay family, and perhaps an even more technical Pelagos variant.

Events are also beginning to stack up on the calendar. Oracle Time hosted a member evening with Studio Underd0g in London celebrating the brand’s “Assembled in Britain” campaign, while a new independent watch fair called Chronopolis has announced plans for its first edition in Geneva this April. The show promises a more open and design-focused format, partnering with Chrono24 and inviting collectors directly into the conversation.

For those who prefer to watch rather than read, today’s videos include a fascinating breakdown of Christopher Ward’s business model explaining how a roughly three-times markup can still produce strong value for customers, a detailed hands-on look at the Atelier Wen Inflection, a review of a surprisingly accurate neo-vintage bargain watch, and a speculative deep dive into what Rolex might do next year.

Finally, a quick look at the auction corner. Yesterday’s featured lot, the Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 Chronograph in white gold with a smoked blue dial, drew bidding up to $21,750 but ultimately failed to meet its reserve—leaving the door open for a post-auction offer. Today’s spotlight shifts to a very different piece: the 2023 Ming 37.05 Series 2 Moonphase. With its layered celestial dial and limited run of 500 pieces, the watch captures everything collectors enjoy about modern independents—distinctive design, thoughtful mechanics, and just enough scarcity to keep the secondary market interesting. With the auction closing today at 12:09 p.m. EDT and the current bid hovering just over $3,000, it will be worth watching whether the final hammer lands closer to the typical mid-$4,000 range seen for examples of this reference.

–Michael Wolf

News Time

Terra Scout watch orders halted amid Scout Motors trademark dispute

Astor+Banks has paused assembly and shipping of its Terra Scout field watch after Scout Motors raised a trademark dispute over the “Scout” name. The Terra Scout was conceived as a modern field watch influenced by the founder’s service experience and had already generated strong interest from collectors. Astor+Banks argues the two brands operate in different categories—electric vehicles versus watches—but the dispute has still disrupted fulfillment. The company says it is prioritizing customer care, providing updates to pre-order customers and offering full refunds for anyone who chooses to cancel while the situation unfolds.

Citizen Partners With Vera Wang for spring 2027 collection

Citizen has partnered with fashion designer Vera Wang to launch a 24-watch collection in Spring 2027, blending Wang’s aesthetic with Citizen’s watchmaking expertise. The collaboration also marks the 50th anniversary of Eco-Drive technology, emphasizing light-powered convenience without battery changes. Rather than a simple licensing deal, the partnership is positioned as a close creative collaboration, with Wang significantly shaping the designs. The lineup will include both ready-to-wear styles for men and women and jewelry-inspired designs aimed at women, aligning with Citizen’s growing women’s audience.

Feature Time

The Greatest Horologists Of Their Time: Charles Frodsham (1810-1871)

This feature profiles Charles Frodsham, one of the most respected names in 19th-century British horology, tracing his rise from a watchmaking family background to a leading chronometer maker. It highlights how his precision instruments proved themselves in rigorous observatory trials and became essential tools for navigation in an era when accuracy at sea mattered enormously. The piece also covers the official recognition he earned through high-profile appointments and his broader influence as a leader within Britain’s horological institutions.

Mark Zuckerberg’s Watch Collection: A Closer Look at The Tech Billionaire’s Timepieces

This article examines Mark Zuckerberg’s recent shift into high-end collecting and uses his growing lineup to explore what he’s choosing—and why it matters. It runs through notable pieces across major maisons and independents, emphasizing escalating complexity, rarity, and price as his collection expands. Along the way, it frames the watches as part of a broader image evolution, showing how he’s moved from minimalist uniform to a more overt “billionaire lifestyle,” with watches as a centerpiece.

From the Editor: Five Tourbillons That Defined the Past Twelve Months. Each One Answered a Different Question

This editorial argues that while the tourbillon is often overused as a luxury buzzword, a small number of recent examples stand out for real mechanical ambition rather than decoration. It curates five watches from the past year that the author believes push the complication forward in distinct ways, spanning radically different design philosophies and extremes of execution. The point isn’t commonality, but range—showing how the “best” tourbillons can represent engineering limits, aesthetic conviction, and independent creative intent all at once.

The Latest Time

BND

Meet The Third Iteration Of The BND Dive Watch

The BND Dive Watch MK. 3 is the latest refinement of Vincent Bonnaud’s dive-watch line, with practical upgrades aimed at everyday wear and real tool-watch use. It switches to the Seiko NH38A movement and boosts water resistance to 300 meters thanks to a redesigned crown. The watch also moves to an FKM rubber strap and comes in three color options (gray, white, and khaki green), with each version limited to 100 pieces. Price is about $693.

Eska

The new Eska Amphibian 250 Destro

The Eska Amphibian 250 Destro is a vintage-inspired diver built around a 40mm steel case, a unidirectional bezel, and 250 meters of water resistance. Its “destro” layout puts the crown at 9 o’clock for better comfort (especially for left-handed wearers) while giving the watch a distinctive profile. Inside is the Sellita SW200 automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve, and the watch ships with both a Tropic-style strap and an additional NATO-style strap. Price is about $983 (before taxes).

Kollokium

Kollokium Projekt 02 Variant B, Deeper and Darker Across 9 Layers

Kollokium’s Projekt 02 Variant B centers on a striking topographical dial built from 67 stacked plates, fading from grey to black across nine layers for a strong sense of depth. The 39.5mm die-cast 316L steel case is paired with 50m water resistance and a La Joux-Perret G101 movement with a 68-hour power reserve. It’s limited to 299 pieces and comes on an anthracite elastic textile strap. Price is about $4,700 (excluding VAT).

Luminox

Luminox Updates Its Navy SEAL Chronograph Watch With a Desert-Ready Colorway

This Navy SEAL Chronograph XS.3587 adds a desert-ready sand-and-black palette to Luminox’s rugged, tactical playbook. The CARBONOX case keeps weight low (around 80g) even with a large 45mm footprint, and the tritium tubes provide constant glow for up to 25 years without charging. It runs on a Swiss Ronda 5030.D quartz chronograph movement and is rated to 200 meters of water resistance. Price is $845.

Nivada Grenchen

Nivada Grenchen F77 MKII

The Nivada Grenchen F77 MKII updates the integrated-bracelet sports watch formula with a Dark Blue Aventurine dial meant to evoke a starry night sky. It keeps the familiar silhouette but adds meaningful refinements like a slimmer 38mm steel case, a redesigned bracelet for comfort, and a domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating. Power comes from the Soprod P024 automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve, and water resistance is rated to 100 meters. Price is $1,360.

Wearing Time - Reviews

Hands-On: The Louis Vuitton Escale Minute Repeater

The Louis Vuitton Escale Minute Repeater combines high-complication watchmaking with a design language that nods to the brand’s trunkmaking heritage. Released in January 2026, it features a grey flammé guilloché dial, a retrograde minutes track, and a prominent jump-hour display, all housed in a 40mm rose gold case with an impressive 50 meters of water resistance. Its minute repeater is activated by a discreet slider, keeping the case profile clean while delivering a feature traditionally associated with far more traditional designs. Powered by a movement from La Fabrique du Temps, it’s positioned as a serious horological statement at $350,000.

Comparing Time

20 of the Best Travel Watches to Buy Right Now for Every Budget

This roundup breaks travel watches into two main types—GMT/dual-time pieces for quickly tracking a second timezone, and worldtimers that display many (or all) timezones at once on the dial. It then surveys standout options across a wide range of styles and price points, from affordable microbrand GMTs to high-end luxury worldtimers. The guide emphasizes practical considerations like legibility, water resistance, and movement choice, while also acknowledging that “travel” can mean anything from scuba trips to business flights and even purely style-driven picks. The result is a broad, budget-spanning list meant to help readers find a travel-ready watch that matches how they actually move through time zones.

Watches and Wonders 2026

Tudor Predictions 2026 - The New Models Tudor Might Launch at Watches and Wonders 2026

This piece lays out predictions for what Tudor could unveil at Watches and Wonders 2026, a particularly important year as the brand marks its 100th anniversary. It suggests Tudor may revive the Oysterdate Big Block Chronograph for its 50th anniversary and potentially introduce a new integrated chronograph movement. Other likely updates include a Black Bay 58 with a blue dial, expanded Black Bay 54 color options (including bright pink and green), and a more technical Pelagos Ultra Dark in black DLC-coated titanium. The article also floats the idea of a steel-and-gold Black Bay 54 variant to add a more luxurious option while keeping the core design language intact.

Opinion Time

Jaeger-LeCoultre Is Trapped Between Status (Rolex) And Prestige (Patek Philippe)

This opinion argues that Jaeger-LeCoultre sits in an awkward middle ground: admired for technical mastery and craftsmanship, but not rewarded with the same status signaling as Rolex or the same prestige cachet as Patek Philippe. It suggests that even the iconic Reverso doesn’t naturally fit today’s hype-driven “it watch” mold, while sportier lines like the Polaris don’t fully capture the aspirational luxury-sports formula either. The proposed path forward is for JLC to sharpen its identity by streamlining the catalog and more clearly communicating its creative and technical strengths, positioning the brand as the “intellectual” choice in haute horlogerie. The piece also recommends leaning into culture-building—art collaborations and immersive exhibitions—to make JLC feel more like a creator of cultural objects than just products.

Patek Philippe should enter certified pre-owned market

This commentary makes the case that Patek Philippe is leaving money and brand control on the table by staying out of the fast-growing certified pre-owned market. It argues that an unregulated secondary market increases the risk of counterfeits and poorly maintained watches circulating under the Patek name, potentially harming the brand’s reputation. The article points to Rolex’s certified pre-owned program as proof that a major brand can create trust, enforce quality standards, and generate meaningful revenue in this channel. It concludes that investing in the servicing and dealer infrastructure needed for a certified program could both protect Patek’s legacy and help train more watchmakers for the long term.

Event Time

Oracle Time Member’s Evening with Studio Underd0g

This recap covers an Oracle Time members event hosted with Studio Underd0g on the eve of British Watchmakers’ Day, held at Shoreditch’s Curve Club. The night centered on Studio Underd0g’s “Assembled in Britain” campaign, with the campaign video featured prominently and a conversation about why bringing watch assembly back to Britain matters. Attendees also got hands-on time with the campaign’s headline piece, the D0ghouse limited edition “Guava,” alongside themed cocktails, canapés, and plenty of watch talk. The event doubled as an early chance for guests to sign up for Studio Underd0g’s British Watchmakers’ Day hand-setting experience.

Chronopolis reveals key plans ahead of inaugural 2026 edition in Geneva

Chronopolis is set to launch a new indie watch fair in Geneva from April 14–18, 2026, positioning itself as a more design-led, open, and community-focused alternative to traditional fair formats. Partnering with Chrono24, the event aims to emphasize accessibility in watch collecting while creating a distinctive atmosphere at Les Halles de l’Île for the 20 exhibiting brands. The program is structured with quieter morning hours for media and retailers, then more public-facing afternoons, plus daily happy hours designed to encourage networking and conversation. A major centerpiece is the Chronopolis Party on April 16, inviting the broader public to join brands, collectors, and industry figures for an evening celebration.

Watching Time - Videos

Christopher Ward’s 3X Markup Explained: The Business Model Behind the Growth - YouTube - Collective Horology

This video breaks down Christopher Ward’s pricing approach and why a roughly 3X markup can be more than simple profit-taking. It frames the markup as a deliberate strategy that supports growth while keeping quality and customer value central to the brand’s positioning. The discussion highlights how this model can fund product development and marketing, strengthening the brand’s market presence over time. Overall, it’s a look at how disciplined pricing and operations can help a watch brand scale without abandoning the “affordable luxury” lane.

Watch Now

Hands on: Atelier Wen Inflection - YouTube - This Watch, That Watch

This hands-on video gives a detailed look at the Atelier Wen Inflection, focusing on design, craftsmanship, and the specific elements that make the watch stand out visually. It walks through the watch’s construction and mechanics in a way that emphasizes the brand’s quality ambitions and attention to finishing. The broader takeaway is how Atelier Wen blends traditional watchmaking cues with modern design decisions to carve out a distinctive niche. It’s positioned to help both enthusiasts and casual viewers understand what’s compelling about the Inflection beyond photos.

Watch Now

This Neo-Vintage Bargain Offers Award Winning Design and Ultra High Accuracy - YouTube - WatchChris

This video spotlights a neo-vintage style watch positioned as a value pick that doesn’t sacrifice performance for looks. It emphasizes design elements that create the vintage-inspired appeal while also underscoring accuracy as a core selling point. The presentation focuses on the features and build choices that differentiate it from typical budget options, aiming at viewers who want style plus measurable capability. Overall, it’s a case for why some modern “bargain” watches can still deliver serious design and precision.

Watch Now

Rolex Predictions 2026 - NEW Pepsi GMT - YouTube - Adrian Barker

This video explores predictions for Rolex’s 2026 direction, with special focus on the possibility of a new Pepsi GMT. It discusses the design and specification expectations that collectors and enthusiasts are watching for, and why such a release would matter in the broader Rolex ecosystem. Beyond one model, it touches on how changing tastes and market dynamics shape what Rolex might choose to do next. The result is a forward-looking breakdown of what could drive demand and discussion in the coming year.

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BuyingTime at Auction

A few select current auctions that caught our eye on GetBezel.com

[Wednesday’s auction watch, the Audemars Piguet CODE 11.59 Chronograph White Gold / Smoked Blue / Rubber (26393BC.OO.A002KB.01) - was bid to $21,750 but did not meet its reserve. - make an offer]

2023 Ming 37.05 Series 2 Moonphase 38 Steel / Sunray brushed Anthracite Metal / Strap - Limited to 500 Pieces (37.05 Series 2)

Auction Report: “Moonlight Limited: The Ming 37.05 Series 2 Moonphase”

Independent watchmaking continues to carve out its own corner of the market, and few brands have ridden that wave quite as effectively as Ming. Founded by photographer-turned-watch designer Ming Thein, the brand has built a cult following among collectors who appreciate distinctive design, limited production runs, and thoughtfully reworked movements. The 37-series has been central to that rise, and the Ming 37.05 Series 2 Moonphase, introduced in 2023, represents one of the most visually poetic pieces in the lineup.

This particular watch, limited to just 500 examples, features a 38mm stainless steel case with complex compound curves and alternating polished and brushed finishing. Despite its relatively compact diameter, the wide dial opening allows the watch to wear larger on the wrist, giving it a strong presence without sacrificing comfort. Domed sapphire crystals front and back add visual depth and help frame one of Ming’s signature design tricks: a multi-layered dial architecture that plays with transparency, lume, and reflection.

The dial itself is where this watch really earns its reputation. The anthracite sunray-brushed metal base is punctured with star-shaped openings that interact with the luminous moonphase display beneath, creating a shifting celestial effect as the moon progresses. Above this sits a sapphire layer etched with minute markers and filled with HyCeram lume, giving the watch a striking three-dimensional “night sky” appearance that changes dramatically depending on lighting conditions.

Powering the watch is the manual-winding Sellita for Ming SW288.M1, a heavily reworked version of the SW288-1 with skeletonized anthracite bridges and contrasting rhodium finishing visible through the display caseback. The movement runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour and delivers about 38–40 hours of power reserve. It provides central hours and minutes along with both a quick-set moonphase and a date display, combining a classical complication with a distinctly modern aesthetic.

When the Series 2 debuted in 2023, the retail price was about CHF 4,950 and the run of 500 pieces sold quickly, reinforcing Ming’s reputation for tightly controlled production and strong collector demand. In the secondary market today, examples of the broader 37.05 model family typically trade roughly between $3,300 and $5,700 depending on condition, with many examples clustering around the mid-$4,000 range.

The example in this auction appears to be in very strong condition. The dial, hands, and crystal are described as excellent, with only minor signs of wear on the case and bezel. Importantly, the strap is unworn and the watch includes its original box, papers, folio, and literature—details that matter to collectors of modern independents, where completeness often influences resale value as much as condition.

For collectors who enjoy the design language of independent watchmaking but still want something wearable and mechanically straightforward, the 37.05 Series 2 sits in a very appealing middle ground. It offers a recognizable Ming aesthetic, a practical size, and the romantic charm of a moonphase complication, all wrapped in a limited edition that is unlikely to appear in large numbers on the secondary market.

With the auction closing today at 12:09 p.m. EDT, this piece should draw attention from collectors who missed the original release or who want to add a distinctive independent watch to their rotation. If bidding remains near the typical secondary-market range, it could represent a fairly reasonable entry point into the world of Ming—especially for a watch that literally puts the stars on your wrist.

Current bid: $3,013

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